Can tire shops straighten bent wheels? What does it cost, typically?
I could buy another wheel out of the summit catalog for just over
$100, but if I can salvage what's on it for less, maybe that's a
better choice.
Thanks for any suggestions. This ruined my day.
-J
Buy a new one. 150-200 to repair the current one.
http://www.jegs.com/p/American-Racing/American-Racing-AR-23-Wheels/832547/10002/-1
--
Steve W.
I have had aluminum wheels repaired, but your average tire shop won't
do it, and it'll still cost you about $100-ish a wheel (at least
around here.) Only one place in my area that will even attempt it
(likely for good reason - you better know what you're doing so the
aluminum doesn't fracture at high speed, the liability on such a
repair has to be fairly substantial.) I once had some BBSes given to
me for free because two were bent, so in my case it made financial
sense to have those two repaired. In your case I would say that it is
not - you might as well order a new one if the pattern/size you have
is still available.
nate
Buy snow tires. 70% of winter accidents are due to cars not using snow
tires. Radials are only good to about 7 above zero celcius (40ish F).
> phaeton <blahb...@hotmail.com> wrote in
> news:6b6a9ca9-9b04-4b6c-803c-34d06376d7e7
@r31g2000vbs.googlegroups.com:
and 90 percent of all staticits are made up on the spot. besides
where do you find non radial snow tires these days??? KB
--
THUNDERSNAKE #9
Protect your rights or "Lose" them
The 2nd Admendment guarantees the others
Where there's snow and the temperature goes below zero perhaps? That
number comes directly from the companies that do the towing. Accident
was perhaps the wrong word - called for a tow truck would be completely
accurate.
> Kevin <kevyN...@netins.net> wrote in
> news:Xns9CDD90D81B420k...@167.142.225.136:
>
>> fred <fr...@bedrock.rock> wrote in news:Xns9CDB89126B583fred@
now that sounds more likely KB
> fred <fr...@bedrock.rock> wrote in news:Xns9CDDA6...@127.0.0.1:
>
>>>>> Thanks for any suggestions. This ruined my day.
>>>>>
>>>> Buy snow tires. 70% of winter accidents are due to cars not using
>>>> snow tires. Radials are only good to about 7 above zero celcius
>>>> (40ish F).
>>>>
>>>
>>> and 90 percent of all staticits are made up on the spot. besides
>>> where do you find non radial snow tires these days??? KB
>>>
>> Where there's snow and the temperature goes below zero perhaps? That
>> number comes directly from the companies that do the towing. Accident
>> was perhaps the wrong word - called for a tow truck would be
> completely
>> accurate.
>>
> now that sounds more likely KB
>
And a virtually trivial difference. Now where's your proof that you
can't get snowtires where *you* are?
How old are these statistics? Did these people call for a tow truck on
their CB radio?
Got mine from the Tire Rack... of course they are radials...
Also got a set of all terrain tires for my pickemup truck from the
same source... also radials...
nate
>>>> Buy snow tires. 70% of winter accidents are due to cars not using
>>>> snow tires. Radials are only good to about 7 above zero celcius
>>>> (40ish F).
>>>>
>>> and 90 percent of all staticits are made up on the spot. besides
>>> where do you find non radial snow tires these days??? KB
>>>
>> Where there's snow and the temperature goes below zero perhaps? That
>> number comes directly from the companies that do the towing. Accident
>> was perhaps the wrong word - called for a tow truck would be
>> completely accurate.
>>
>>
>
>
> How old are these statistics? Did these people call for a tow truck
> on their CB radio?
>
No, heard it this week on the CBC news as a matter of fact.
> On Dec 10, 6:25�pm, fred <f...@bedrock.rock> wrote:
>> Kevin <kevyNOS...@netins.net> wrote
>> innews:Xns9CDDA086ED25EkevyNOSPAMneti
> ns...@167.142.225.136:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > fred <f...@bedrock.rock> wrote
>> > innews:Xns9CDDA6...@127.0.0.1:
>>
>> >>>>> Thanks for any suggestions. �This ruined my day.
>>
>> >>>> Buy snow tires. 70% of winter accidents are due to cars not
>> >>>> using snow tires. Radials are only good to about 7 above zero
>> >>>> celcius (40ish F).
>>
>> >>> � and 90 percent of all staticits are made up on the spot. �besid
> es
>> >>> where do you find non radial snow tires these days??? � KB
>>
>> >> Where there's snow and the temperature goes below zero perhaps?
>> >> That number comes directly from the companies that do the towing.
>> >> Accident was perhaps the wrong word - called for a tow truck would
>> >> be
>> > completely
>> >> accurate.
>>
>> > � now that sounds more likely � �KB
>>
>> And a virtually trivial difference. Now where's your proof that you
>> can't get snowtires where *you* are?- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> Got mine from the Tire Rack... of course they are radials...
>
Then they're all season radials, *not* snowtires. They're only good for
rain in cool weather at best.
> N8N <njn...@hotmail.com> wrote in
> news:acbe3627-d5cb-4974...@v25g2000yqk.googlegroups.com:
>
>>
>> Got mine from the Tire Rack... of course they are radials...
>>
> Then they're all season radials, *not* snowtires. They're only good for
> rain in cool weather at best.
>
>
Tire Rack sells winter tires. All are radials.
<http://www.tirerack.com/winter/index.jsp?camefrom=&fromIndex=true&index=xx>
--
Tegger
Nope. Dunlop Winter Sport 195/65R15. Apparently sadly now
discontinued in that size.
http://www.dunloptires.com/dunlop/display_tire.jsp?prodline=DUN+Winter+Sport+M3&mrktarea=Winter
They work great, BTW, although I do not live in a heavy snow area so I
can't comment on deep loose snow traction. They work fine on slush
and packed snow.
nate
Ok. Fair enough - as I found after looking at their FAQ. Specifically
the first two questions. There *is* some ambiguity between the terms
winter tires, all season radials and winter radials.
I'm not sure how you'd really quantify that, but they do make quite a
difference. (So does having good remaining tread depth.)
> > >>>> Radials are only good to about 7 above zero celcius
> > >>>> (40ish F).
Umm. There *is* a common recommendation that in snow country, at a
time in the fall when you start seeing temperatures in the low single
figures C, you should change to your winter tires, but the reasoning
is that you don't want to get pantsed by the season's first big
storm. (You don't want to change too early, or keep them on after the
risk has passed in the spring, because those tread compounds wear very
fast on warm dry roads.) I don't think that's meant as a statement
that a decent all-season radial is no longer doing a good job at
ambient temperatures of 7 /40 F.
> > >>> where do you find non radial snow tires these days???
> Got mine from the Tire Rack... of course they are radials...
A Tire Rack article in their "winter" series even states that (other
factors being more or less apples-to-apples) the early radials were
quickly noted for their superiority in winter. Anyway, the point is,
if not truly moot, at least close to it in the US and probably other
industrialized nations. Bias and bias belted tires are still made
-- users include heavy trucks/buses, severe off-roading, certain kinds
of racing, and correct-looking restoration of antique cars -- but
radials have made great inroads in most of those areas and only the
last one is really ironclad.
As for the original question, I'd do a web search and ask some of the
places that specialize in repairing bent or broken alloy rims. It can
be done (depending on the nature and severity of the damage) but it
isn't a job for just anyone. You need a place that has skill and can
look for hidden damage and true it up right.
--Joe
> As for the original question, I'd do a web search and ask some of the
> places that specialize in repairing bent or broken alloy rims. It can
> be done (depending on the nature and severity of the damage) but it
> isn't a job for just anyone. You need a place that has skill and can
> look for hidden damage and true it up right.
I can recommend one (Ye Olde Wheel Shop in Elkridge) but as I posted
long ago, if the wheel is still available new for less than $150 or so
it'd probably be best to just buy a whole new wheel. Only reason to
repair an alloy wheel is if it's a discontinued or very expensive wheel.
You won't save any money by repairing an alloy wheel that is still
available for a reasonable price, and you can't repair a wheel *better*
than new.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
>>
> Ok. Fair enough - as I found after looking at their FAQ. Specifically
> the first two questions. There *is* some ambiguity between the terms
> winter tires, all season radials and winter radials.
>
> http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=120
>
>
You do know what "radial" means and refers to, yes?
--
Tegger
>> > >>>> 70% of winter accidents are due to cars not using snow tires.
>
> I'm not sure how you'd really quantify that, but they do make quite a
> difference. (So does having good remaining tread depth.)
>
>
>> > >>>> Radials are only good to about 7 above zero celcius
>> > >>>> (40ish F).
>
> Umm. There *is* a common recommendation that in snow country, at a
> time in the fall when you start seeing temperatures in the low single
> figures C,
Depends where you live. In my area we generally get our first snowfall in
late November or early December, so most people have their snows on by the
middle of November. The rest end up stuck on a hill or in the ditch.
We can take them off early-mid April.
--
Tegger
> I wouldn't doubt you can buy winter tires in Miami.
> cuhulin
>
Just in case my point wasn't clear, I was going under the expectation
that people from snow free states wouldn't know of there being a fourth
type of tire made specifically for snow.
>> > >>>> 70% of winter accidents are due to cars not using snow tires.
>
> I'm not sure how you'd really quantify that, but they do make quite a
> difference. (So does having good remaining tread depth.)
>
>
>> > >>>> Radials are only good to about 7 above zero celcius
>> > >>>> (40ish F).
>
> Umm. There *is* a common recommendation that in snow country, at a
> time in the fall when you start seeing temperatures in the low single
> figures C, you should change to your winter tires, but the reasoning
> is that you don't want to get pantsed by the season's first big
> storm. (You don't want to change too early, or keep them on after the
> risk has passed in the spring, because those tread compounds wear very
> fast on warm dry roads.) I don't think that's meant as a statement
> that a decent all-season radial is no longer doing a good job at
> ambient temperatures of 7 /40 F.
>
In Quebec, you are now required by law to have snow tires on your car
during the winter BTW.
Yes. I was only referring to the nomenclature and at least around here
when people talk about winter tires and radials, more often than not,
they're actually talking about all season radials. Such is the average
person <g>.
Heh, a married Irish woman who lives in Bognor Regis,England, (she and
meself have been friends since around the year of 2000) she and her
hubby visited Disneyworld and Universal City near Orlando a few years
ago in November.She was supprised it can get cold in Florida.She went to
a store and bought a sweater.
cuhulin
> Tegger <inv...@invalid.inv> wrote in
>>
>> You do know what "radial" means and refers to, yes?
>>
>
>
> Yes.
Then what, specifically, does "radial" mean?
--
Tegger
I found that out the first time I stepped into the gulf during march
break one year in Clearwater. "What's the point?" I thought. This is
worse than Peggy's Cove's tidal pool. At least there it was a
confortable air temperature.
It means you need to get more sleep and drink less coffee. Is there some
reason you think I would lie about knowing the meaning of such a simple
word?
You *did* ask what "radial" meant just now, *not* what a radial tire
is anyways. *I* was the one that suggested winter tires originally anyways.
> Tegger <inv...@invalid.inv> wrote in
> news:Xns9CDED096...@208.90.168.18:
>
>>
>> Then what, specifically, does "radial" mean?
>>
> It means you need to get more sleep and drink less coffee. Is there
> some reason you think I would lie about knowing the meaning of such a
> simple word?
>
> You *did* ask what "radial" meant just now, *not* what a radial tire
> is anyways. *I* was the one that suggested winter tires originally
> anyways.
I sense vigorous backing-and-filling going on here. You /don't/ know, and
won't admit it.
You originally said,
"Buy snow tires. 70% of winter accidents are due to cars not using snow
tires. Radials are only good to about 7 above zero celcius (40ish F)."
You seem to have the impression that "radials" are summer or all-season
tires, which implies that you do not know what the term means.
--
Tegger
> fred <fr...@bedrock.rock> wrote
>> Yes.
Tegger wrote:
> Then what, specifically, does "radial" mean?
Spokes do not cross:
http://www.astounding.org.uk/ian/wheel/patterns.html
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
> fred <fr...@bedrock.rock> wrote in news:Xns9CDEE98...@127.0.0.1:
>
>> Tegger <inv...@invalid.inv> wrote in
>> news:Xns9CDED096...@208.90.168.18:
>>
>
>>>
>>> Then what, specifically, does "radial" mean?
>>>
>> It means you need to get more sleep and drink less coffee. Is there
>> some reason you think I would lie about knowing the meaning of such a
>> simple word?
>>
>> You *did* ask what "radial" meant just now, *not* what a radial tire
>> is anyways. *I* was the one that suggested winter tires originally
>> anyways.
>
>
>
> I sense vigorous backing-and-filling going on here. You /don't/ know,
> and won't admit it.
>
Now you're making serious assumptions. I chose not to answer a question that
wasn't worded in context in any case. The meaning of the word radial alone
has a very different meaning than radial tire.
> You originally said,
> "Buy snow tires. 70% of winter accidents are due to cars not using
> snow tires. Radials are only good to about 7 above zero celcius (40ish
> F)."
>
> You seem to have the impression that "radials" are summer or
> all-season tires, which implies that you do not know what the term
> means.
>
Then you apparently didn't read my other post about the naming
conventions around here. Besides the radial snow tires on that site look
marketly different than the one I see here. The treads were far less
pronuonced for one.
is this what you're talking about?
http://www.stausaonline.com/bias-ply-passenger/traxion-70-tires.html
I haven't seen any of those in 15 years or more. I don't particularly
miss 'em either. Loud and rumbly...
> Tegger <inv...@invalid.inv> wrote in
> news:Xns9CDF56C3...@208.90.168.18:
>
>>
>> You seem to have the impression that "radials" are summer or
>> all-season tires, which implies that you do not know what the term
>> means.
>>
> Then you apparently didn't read my other post about the naming
> conventions around here.
> Besides the radial snow tires on that site
> look marketly different than the one I see here. The treads were far
> less pronuonced for one.
>
>
"Radial" simply means that the fabric belts that make up the tire's carcass
are not wound on an angle the way they are in the older bias-ply design.
Instead they are wound straight from one bead to the other, as though they
were "radiating" outwards from the tire's centerline.
The construction of the carcass has nothing to do with the tread design or
the tire's intended weather use. Automotive road-going winter tires in
Canada are identical to winter tires sold elsewhere in the world, and ALL
are of radial construction.
Differentiating between radial and non-radial was important up to about the
mid-'80s, when it was still possible to purchase either kind, and there
were many vehicles still on the road with suspensions designed for bias-ply
tires.
When you compare tires on a Website, make sure you're comparing snow to
snow, and ice to ice. Both are winter tires, but they have slightly
different intended uses and slightly different tread architectures.
--
Tegger
> Tegger wrote:
>> Then what, specifically, does "radial" mean?
>
> Spokes do not cross:
> http://www.astounding.org.uk/ian/wheel/patterns.html
>
We're not talking about wheels.
--
Tegger
>
>
>
> is this what you're talking about?
>
> http://www.stausaonline.com/bias-ply-passenger/traxion-70-tires.html
>
> I haven't seen any of those in 15 years or more. I don't particularly
> miss 'em either. Loud and rumbly...
When I bought my '76 Dodge Coronet (used), the previous owner had installed
bias-ply tires, probably to save money. They were awful. A replacement with
radials brought an instant and obvious improvement in straight-ahead
stability and in cornering quietness.
However, I neglected to replace the bias-ply that was on the spare wheel,
so the next time I got a flat, I discovered very emphatically why they
always told you not to mix radials and bias-plys on the same axle.
--
Tegger
Actually most heavy trucks and buses use radials. Have been since the
late 80's. You have to look at tires from the 70's to find bias plies
any longer.
severe off-roading, certain kinds
> of racing, and correct-looking restoration of antique cars
Actually you can also get the correct looking tires in radial
construction, and that is actually the main reason you can get the
correct ones. The people wanted the better radial tire construction but
also wanted correct looking tires.
-- but
> radials have made great inroads in most of those areas and only the
> last one is really ironclad.
>
> As for the original question, I'd do a web search and ask some of the
> places that specialize in repairing bent or broken alloy rims. It can
> be done (depending on the nature and severity of the damage) but it
> isn't a job for just anyone. You need a place that has skill and can
> look for hidden damage and true it up right.
>
> --Joe
>
>
--
Steve W.
There are FAR more than 4 types of tires out there.
--
Steve W.
> Kevin <kevyN...@netins.net> wrote in
> news:Xns9CDDA086ED25Ek...@167.142.225.136:
>
>> fred <fr...@bedrock.rock> wrote in news:Xns9CDDA6...@127.0.0.1:
>>
>>>>>> Thanks for any suggestions. This ruined my day.
>>>>>>
>>>>> Buy snow tires. 70% of winter accidents are due to cars not using
>>>>> snow tires. Radials are only good to about 7 above zero celcius
>>>>> (40ish F).
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> and 90 percent of all staticits are made up on the spot. besides
>>>> where do you find non radial snow tires these days??? KB
>>>>
>>> Where there's snow and the temperature goes below zero perhaps? That
>>> number comes directly from the companies that do the towing.
Accident
>>> was perhaps the wrong word - called for a tow truck would be
>> completely
>>> accurate.
>>>
>
>> now that sounds more likely KB
>>
> And a virtually trivial difference. Now where's your proof that you
> can't get snowtires where *you* are?
>
>
>
no buddy said I couldn`t get them, I was pointing out there are almost
no bias ply tires any more. KB
--
THUNDERSNAKE #9
Protect your rights or "Lose" them
The 2nd Admendment guarantees the others
Otherwise, I don't think i've seen nor even heard anyone say "snow
tires" in about 15 years, and that includes the last 8 years that I've
lived in Wisconsin.
*shrug*
-J
Having said that, I'm tempted to start doing what I used to do, until
about 3 cars ago- buy another set of rims (if the local yard has any
cash-for-clunkers carcasses left), and a set of taller skinnier
all-season tires for winter usage. 215-65 x16 Goodrich TAs, supposedly
M&S rated, don't do so hot on the frozen stuff, and the damn aluminum
rims like to leak down in cold weather. I'd have to look it up, but I
think 215-70s on 15" steel would be about the same diameter, and
all-seasons would probably have a narrower contact patch.
--
aem sends...
How about studded tires, are they still being sold?
cuhulin
Same here. My next vehicle will likely be a Subaru (AWD), but I never
have bought into the whole FWD hype. Making the steering wheels also
the driving wheels is just str8 up dangerous. The only time the
"front wheel drive has superior traction!" argument is true is in a
straight line at low speed. Any other time, the opposite is true.
But what do I know? I'm not an engineer.
-J
Easier to work on the drive train, but you don't have that engine
weight over the drive wheels.
I always put 3 or 4 hundred pound sacks of sand in the trunk of my
RWD's cars when snow came along, and that worked wonders.
Never got stuck, or had the back end breaking loose.
Took about 500 lbs in the bed of my F-150 to make a notable
difference.
I never ever bought snow tires for any of my vehicles, and drove
around many stuck cars in snow storms. Didn't pay any attention to
what tires the stuck cars had on them.
Of course if you drive a car onto a snowbank where the snow is holding
the undercarriage up and not allowing the tires to grip, get out the
shovel. Did that once because it was the only place to park and I
wanted to get inside and sleep. Took me and a son an hour to dig it
out the next day. Still haven't decided if I regret that move.
Easiest way to get a RWD unstuck from snow and ice was not pushing and
sliding on your feet, and getting a shot of slush whipped onto your
face, but just get a few guys standing on the back bumper.
Trouble is, I think bumpers disappeared faster than RWD.
And then you are hauling around all that extra weight, costing gas.
--Vic
IME FWD often does have superior traction in terms of getting you moving
in low traction conditions. However, the same can also be said of rear
engine/RWD cars, e.g. VW Beetle, Porsche 911, Chevy Corvair etc.
I find FWD more difficult to *handle* in low traction conditions,
although it is more "fail safe" - RWD cars may oversteer but FWD almost
always understeer which is considered safer for unskilled drivers.
(note: I know that this is not a fundamental characteristic of the two
drive layouts, but merely how they are most often implemented.)
> fred wrote:
>> Tegger <inv...@invalid.inv> wrote in
>> news:Xns9CDF56C3...@208.90.168.18:
>
> is this what you're talking about?
>
> http://www.stausaonline.com/bias-ply-passenger/traxion-70-tires.html
>
Yes, that's more what they look like up here.
> I haven't seen any of those in 15 years or more. I don't particularly
> miss 'em either. Loud and rumbly...
>
Snow, hard packed even isn't exactly known for transmitting sound very
well. If there's no snow or ice on the road, you don't need snow tires.
However here, anywhere but the major roads is covered in a layer of it
for most of the winter.
yep, I remember living up north and roads simply were packed snow.
Around here more often it's just slushy, the only reason you need snow
tires is so that you can get around on those few days when there is
actual snow on the ground - maybe a week or so out of the year.
Unfortunately, you don't know when those days are going to be so the
snow tires stay on december through march. The newer "winter tires" do
me fine although I wouldn't try getting through a winter without them
(Porsche 944, no all-season tires available to fit it anymore even if I
wanted to try it.)
I never could get used to that freezing cold weather and slipping and
sliding on those icey sidewalks and my fingers and toes feeling like
Birdseye frozen peas.Suppose to get up to 71 degrees here tomorrow.
cuhulin
They are bias play as are all bicycle tires.
A short lived Radial series from Panasonic (premium supplier
in bicycle tires) showed poor handling and rapid wear for
bicycle applications.
From Sheldon Brown:
"The Panaracer radials turned out to be extremely unpleasant
to ride (they are fast and efficient, but they always feel
flat, there is a lateral floppiness that is just intolerable..."
http://sheldonbrown.com/otb.html
More from Jobst Brandt:
http://yarchive.net/bike/bias_ply.html
Getting real off topic... I always thought that Panasonic (the bicycle
mfgr - presumably part of Matsushita?) and Panaracer (tire mfgr -
formerly National Tire Co.) were two different companies, albeit both
Japanese. Not so?
Divisions of the same company, Matsushita in Osaka Japan
(been there!). In Japan, most of their products are marked
"National" which can't be trademarked here.
Interesting!
Thanks for the links!
-J
NAPA stocks the ball joints for about $25, (and the whole upper
control arm assy for $75), so for that kind of money maybe I can make
a whole front end rebuild a spring-time parking lot project. I'll
just need to figure out whether I can just replace the ball joints or
if I have to go the whole arm, etc.
I've got some scrub tires on the front right now, and (you guys might
call me names for this, but) maybe I can double check the toe-
adjustment with a tape measure for now. I don't drive it much in the
winter and the roads are all icy/snowy anyways. I don't think I'll
wear these tires down too bad if I the toe isn't too far off.
Thanks.
-J
You probably can just replace the ball joint, but if it is a screw-in
type you will need a special tool and a very beefy breaker bar. What
kind of vehicle is this again?
If you plan on keeping it forever investing in the tool may not be
unreasonable.
If they're doing a real alignment with a real technician who knows what he
is doing, that's fair. You can get an alignment for half of that prcie at a
chain tire shop, by a kid who just puts it on the machine, presses a button,
and does what the machine tells him. It's WELL worth the extra money to get
someone competent to do it instead.
>However, they won't align it
>because I've got a worn upper ball joint. Quoted $380/side to
>replace.
Excellent. See, if you'd taken it into the tire store, they would just have
set the alignment anyway and if anything probably made the problem worse.
>NAPA stocks the ball joints for about $25, (and the whole upper
>control arm assy for $75), so for that kind of money maybe I can make
>a whole front end rebuild a spring-time parking lot project. I'll
>just need to figure out whether I can just replace the ball joints or
>if I have to go the whole arm, etc.
Depends on the car. In a lot of cases, it's so much easier to replace
the whole arm that it's well worth the additional money. Especially
if you don't have an arbor press.
>I've got some scrub tires on the front right now, and (you guys might
>call me names for this, but) maybe I can double check the toe-
>adjustment with a tape measure for now. I don't drive it much in the
>winter and the roads are all icy/snowy anyways. I don't think I'll
>wear these tires down too bad if I the toe isn't too far off.
If the ball joints are bad, it's not even worth your time to check with
a tape measure.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Oh right.... sorry i forgot to mention- it is a 99 Ford Ranger 2WD
(coil spring SLA in front). The shop I took it to was a Tires Plus,
which is a tire chain.
-J
Looks like they may be press-in, in which case you're probably better
off just having someone replace them for you, unless you *enjoy*
inventing new cuss words.
I just did a quick search on rockauto and looked at the pics, so I may
be mistaken.
It's a press in and the early 99s were NOT replaceable. You replaced the
entire arm. (Which is actually a better way anyway).
The only real way to tell is to either run the VIN or pull it apart and
look. Personally I would get the new arms and start there.
--
Steve W.
Why is it better to replace the arm? Is it because you can also do
the upper bushings, too?
-J
It is a LOT less effort.
>> It's a press in and the early 99s were NOT replaceable. You replaced the
>> entire arm. (Which is actually a better way anyway).
>>
>> The only real way to tell is to either run the VIN or pull it apart and
>> look. Personally I would get the new arms and start there.
>>
>> --
>> Steve W.
>
> Why is it better to replace the arm? Is it because you can also do
> the upper bushings, too?
>
> -J
With the press in style joints it is easy to damage the arm if you don't
use the correct tools and have practice with them.
Then there are the bushings, plus the new arms will save close to an
hour time wise.
--
Steve W.
I see. I should probably do both sides at the same time, huh?
-J
If you intend to keep the vehicle for a while I would do both sides,
uppers AND lowers, plus the tie rods. I would also check/replace the
lower A-arm bushings. Then get it aligned by a good shop.
Use joints that you can grease and grease it at every oil change and the
front end will hold up a LOT longer.
Gets rid of the old parts and gives you a clean slate on maintainance of
that end.
--
Steve W.
They aren't THAT bad. You take the old arms out completely, then you
press the old joints out and the new joints in on an arbor press. You
don't try and do them in place.
If you don't have an arbor press, a drill press with a piece of rod stock
in it can do the job, but you do have to be careful that you're applying
force only around the edge of the bushing and never in the center.
If you're a poor starving student with more time than money (and access to
the shop at school), I recommend doing it yourself. Otherwise replace the
whole arms.
I see. Thanks.
As far as keeping the truck forever... well, it's paid for, and as
long as its monthly repair bills are less than a new car payment, it's
what I've got. My plan is keep it together long enough so that I can
finish college, which (at this rate) is going to be about 4 or 5
years. It's 10 years old, is pushing 167K miles, and I probably could
have taken a little better care of it than I have, but I think it'll
do it. It's got the 2.5L stroked Pinto engine and a T-5, both of
which should be either long-lasting or inexpensive to keep working,
even if the rest of the truck rots away around them.
-J