Painting Equipment
Tim Wescott
knows)
The Problem:
I want to set up a small paint booth for painting model airplanes. I'm
cheap, so I want to start collecting equipment for it bit by bit as it
comes up for sale on Craigslist &c.
This will be for model airplanes, so the actual spraying will be far more
intermittent than for (say) a car -- in fact, the worst-case painting job
would be if a fender from a car project accidentally found it's way into
the booth along with some primer (I dunno how _that_ would happen :-).
I used to work at a shop with a paint booth, so I know all the
procedures. But I was just a peon, and it was a long time ago, so what I
_don't_ know are things like what capacity compressor do I need, do I
really need an HVLP gun, what sort of exhaust fan is recommended, etc.
Currently I'm only planning on using airplane dope, which is basically
butyrate lacquer that's formulated to stay flexible so it won't crack
when it's painted on fabric. I may eventually branch out to multi-part
paints, but I doubt it -- I really like dope finishes, and I don't like
the amount of hassle necessary to dodge toxicity with the fancier stuff.
I'm thinking that I want to get an automotive touch-up gun (a regular-
size automotive gun is way bigger than necessary). But what capacity
compressor? It's looking more and more like I need something
significantly bigger than what you get to go with an air nailer -- is
this correct? Do I want to look for anything special (beyond explosion
proof) in an exhaust fan (I have a room in mind, and am planning on just
poking a hole in the wall for the fan)?
Thanks.
Ecnerwal
Tim Wescott <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote:
> I want to set up a small paint booth for painting model airplanes. I'm
> cheap, so I want to start collecting equipment for it bit by bit as it
> comes up for sale on Craigslist &c.
Depending on the size of your models, would an airbrush make more sense?
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Ed Huntress
"Tim Wescott" <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote in message
news:SbidnUNjTcIDcGfX...@web-ster.com...
Experts probably have a better solution, but here's what I used for
painting...um...maybe 30 Pinewood Derby racers.
My spray rigs were two airbrushes -- a cheap Badger "spray can" for laying
on primers, and a double-action Badger airbrush for finishes. I sprayed
inside of a cardboard box about 2 feet on a side, with big windows made of
Saran wrap taped to the sides. These were for shining a couple of desk lamps
into the box, and for viewing the inside. I used Saran wrap because the
paint makes a mess of them pretty quickly. Keep the roll of Saran and the
masking tape handy to replace them.
I sprayed the inside of the box with two coats of lacquer to settle the
dust. Then I took an old hair dryer, the kind with a separate hose, and
stuck the hose through a hole in the box to keep a positive pressure inside
the box. I taped an air-conditioner filter over the hair dryer's intake.
Cut two holes in the box for your hands, and tape two oversize rubber gloves
to the holes. I used some orange ones I got from Home Depot, extra-large so
I could get my hands into them.
I was going for cheap and effective, rather than efficient. <g> It worked
great; I completely eliminated dust motes in the paint, although you have to
run it a few times to work the dust out of the dryer, etc. I still use it
from time to time. It's gotten as stiff as plywood from all the paint. I've
had to replace the rubber gloves when they got too stiff.
You wind up with some paint spray leaking out with this setup, so I lay out
a lot of newspaper around it. But if you just let in enough air from the
blower to barely keep the pressure positive, it won't blow around too badly.
Oh, regarding going cheap -- I use a spare tire with the Badger "Propel"
valve for painting indoors. I fill the tire periodically with my portable
compressor. It doesn't get much cheaper than that.
--
Ed Huntress
A.T.
: refer sub section:
Airbrush tips and techniques etc
which includes amongst other items:
Airbrush Pressure - How much is required
Airbrush talk, art, painting, illustration, auto graphics, crafts
Airbrushing Tips - Golden.
Buying and Using an Airbrush
Compressor for airbrush - How to DIY ex fridge #1
Compressor for airbrush - How to DIY ex fridge #2
Compressor for airbrush - How to DIY ex fridge #3
at Alan's Hobby, Model & RC FAQ Web Links
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~atong/
regards
Alan T.
"Ed Huntress" <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:4afaf718$0$31284$607e...@cv.net...
Tim Wescott
> In article <SbidnUNjTcIDcGfX...@web-ster.com>,
> Tim Wescott <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote:
>
>> I want to set up a small paint booth for painting model airplanes. I'm
>> cheap, so I want to start collecting equipment for it bit by bit as it
>> comes up for sale on Craigslist &c.
>
> Depending on the size of your models, would an airbrush make more sense?
Too small. Didn't make that clear -- think 30 to 80 inch wingspan.
N Morrison
> Do I want to look for anything special (beyond explosion
> proof) in an exhaust fan (I have a room in mind, and am planning on just
> poking a hole in the wall for the fan)?
If you are using AC powered fans, compressors, lights etc. you'll have
to work to code (electrical, health and mechanical).
Artemus
Have you considered the Critter spray gun? It's bigger than an air
brush and works just fine on my intermediate size projects. Clean up
is a snap and, as it uses mason jars for the paint pot, saving left over
paint is easy. Amazon has them for $40 w/ free shipping.
Details and review here:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Articles/Articles.aspx?articleid=699
Art
Bob AZ
> proof) in an exhaust fan (I have a room in mind, and am planning on just
> poking a hole in the wall for the fan)?
>
> Thanks.
Tim
Somewhere in my many years I wanted a small spray booth and thought
about using a large cardboard box with a 4" dryer hose vented to the
outside. I thought that by pushing air into the room it would exhaust
through the dryer hose and with it the overspray from the spray gun.
Then I saw a cardboard spray booth advertised somewhere. But at this
time I simply did it outside in a open sided shed against a fence. Now
I do it when the wind blows out in the backyard.
Harbor Freight sells a nice small spray gun that can be hooked to a
compressor. Next time I use mine I will use a short flexible hose with
it to avoid the attendant clumsiness of a close attached QC coupler
and will attach the hose to a larger airline.
Bob AZ
WW
Tim... Look up the Krebs cordless sprayer. I found it in a Woodworkers
supply catalog. Made in Switzerland. Don't know if it would spray dope or
not. Warren
sta...@prolynx.com
There are airbrushes and airbrushes. Some are only good for painting
hairlines for photo touchup, good ones can have needles and nozzles
changed to handle a wide variety of work, the one I'm familiar with is
the Paasche VLS. You can get fairly large paint bottles for that and
it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. A small compressor will work, the
air has to be DRY, so budget for a good water trap or dessicant trap.
HF has some suitable compressors, their airbrushes suck, though.
If you go with a car touchup gun, that'll take 3-5 cu ft/min or so,
that's about the tops that a 115 compressor can do. The touchup guns
will handle maybe 3' square surfaces, they don't spray a very wide
pattern. A $10 one from HF will do for shellac and varnish, what I
mostly use them for.
Stan
AMuzi
An explosion proof fan motor such as a restaurant grease fan
would be nice.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Randy
I have had good luck with tools from Harbor Freight
http://www.harborfreight.com . I use their #94734 air compressor ($139.99)
5.0 CFPM@40PSI with their 86-7VGA Detail spray gun (13.99). I have painted
several models and 2 pair of car bumper covers with this equipment and have
no complaints. I use automotive acrylic paint obtained free as leftovers
from a local body shop and I use clear water based polyurethane as a clear
coat because it has proven to be fairly fuel proof. On my electric models I
use automotive clear coat which works well. If I had it to do over and
could afford it, I would go with a 2 stage air compressor like #99918
($1799.99) 18.7 SFCM@100 PSI with a HVLP detail gun #45001 ($23.47). I have
used an HVLP set up and prefer it, but the cost, is prohibitive.
I do not have a spray room for painting - I use my car port. Because the
automotive paints dry very quickly, I have had few problems with dust
settling on the finish. The few times it has happened, I have sanded the
blemishes out with 1000 grit paper and then put on the clear coat. When the
clear coat has been damaged, I have found that sanding and polishing works
well to remove any blemishes.
Randy
"Tim Wescott" <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote in message
news:SbidnUNjTcIDcGfX...@web-ster.com...
Randy
I also use a cheap Harbor Freight air brush for spraying trim colors, though
I do have to be careful to mask off ALL areas I don't want overspray on.
FWIW, I have also used this compressor with a paint tank and different gun
to paint a house and I use it with a brad nailer in my cabinet work. A
Harbor Freight staple gun has also been very helpful when I did some
upholstery work.
Randy
"Randy" <rma...@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:4afd4619$0$4852$9a6e...@unlimited.newshosting.com...
Gunner Asch
wrote:
My favorite spray paint guns....
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=86
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66871
At least for smaller stuff. Smaller than a VW or Bridgeport.......
Gunner
"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster
Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton
PaPa Peng
flying models you will need a larger paint booth. Make one yourself
with a large cardboard box. Use a downdraft design. Mine has an 8
inch box fan from a heavy iron computer. The fan is mounted on the
table top of a cabinet made from a heavy iron computer stand (printer
40 lbs weight!) The air is drawn downwards into an enclosed chamber
formed by the printer stand's legs. The air is exhausted through two
furnace filters. When the cardboard box is messed up just put on a
new box, any suitable size, with a hole cut for the fan.
If you have the space and don't mind the noise get a contractor's
compressor of at least 5 hp. I really love the air tools as they are
so much lighter, easier to use, more versatile and cheaper. You can
also use it to spray paint too.
hls
"PaPa Peng" <papa...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:3c2acfcc-548c-4351...@f16g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
> The air is exhausted through two
> furnace filters.
Is the air filtered before entering the chamber as well?
Bruce L. Bergman
Well, it should be filtered both ways. 'In' to the chamber for the
ultimate finish without any dust in it, and the 'out' filters are
paint pads to keep the paint out of the fan blades, but - Go look at
the paint booth at an auto body shop, study the details, and you start
to understand the scope of the problem...
I would just rig a simple "open" booth to catch the overspray, and
don't worry too much about dust. Because a closed booth gets complex
and expensive real fast. If you are going to have a person step
inside an isolated room and spray around volatiile materials (ranging
from flammable to explosive when atomized during application) you HAVE
to follow the same safety design constraints.
It has to be non-combustible construction in case of a flash fire,
and not easily collapsed on top of the painter and work by the
pressure wave, so a lot of temporary methods like draped visqueen
plastic over furring strips is OUT. You need a way out, you need
explsion-proof lighting (or the fixture outside the room shining in
through a sealed window), you need to design against static buildup
that could ignite the fumes...
You could build a little paint booth at home, but the project would
eclipse the model you are painting. It would work with a freestanding
sturdy frame of 2X4 studs with light sheet-metal screwed on the
inside, and a Lexan window on top for the outside light fiixture.
Prehung house door or two for egress hung opening out, and ball-spring
latches only so they can pop open to release the blast overpressure.
You need pro-grade fire extinguishers ready at hand, strategically
placed, and enough of them to handle the volume of materials. And a
garden hose in case that still isn't enough.
Your exhaust fan motors have to be outside the airstream, and make
sure the static can drain from the blower wheel/blade. And ground the
sheet-metal walls, and the hook or table the work sits on, and make
sure static can drain away from the paint gun...
If you spray two-part catalyzed paint, you have to use real non-
combustible paint pads on the exhaust system. (Not just furnace
filters.) These paints get hot as they cure, and you don't want your
paint booth to spontaneously combust on you.
And no spraying any exotic aircraft paints with nasty solvents
that'll kill you (like DuPont Imron) inside any booth without a full
postive pressure respirator rig. Bought, not cobbled together - there
are places to scrimp, this isn't one of them.
--<< Bruce >>--
MJKolodziej
"Bruce L. Bergman" <bruceNOSP...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:7sfdg55qif24qnlmp...@4ax.com...
Very good information, you are knowledgeable and safety minded!
I think I'll just spray in the open and put up with the dust because all
that trouble is bull shit.
Thanks Bruce,
MK