CV Joint Boot Replacement
Chris F.
This time I need to replace the two outer CV joint boots; one is cracking
and the other has torn open. The grease inside is not contaminated so I
assume this happened during the time the car sat unused (at least 4 years).
The inner joint boots are in very good shape and will not require
replacement.
What I can't figure out is how to remove the snap ring, behind the inner
joint. The Haynes manual says to remove this but doesn't elaborate the least
bit on how to do so. The problem is that there doesn't seem to be any way to
grasp ahold of it. Normally a snap ring has two small holes near the ends,
where you insert snap ring pliers. This doesn't, and to make matters worse,
the inner edges are sloped making it all but impossible to grasp with a
screwdriver. Add the greasy surfaces to the equation and it adds up to a
very frustrating situation indeed.
I'm sure there's a simple answer to this, but this is another first for me
and it doesn't look like something I can figure out on my own.
Thanks for any advice.
Tegger
news:4aff4391$0$5347$9a56...@news.aliant.net:
> I need some help with another aspect of this 1980 Honda Civic
> project.
> This time I need to replace the two outer CV joint boots; one is
> cracking and the other has torn open. The grease inside is not
> contaminated so I assume this happened during the time the car sat
> unused (at least 4 years).
Highly unlikely. Cracking is primarily a result of a combination of
rotation, shaft angles and cold. Boots split during the car's regular
use, not while sitting idle.
And it takes about four years for the first sign of cracking to develop
into total splits, so somebody's been ignoring this for a /long/ time.
> The inner joint boots are in very good
> shape and will not require replacement.
Not now, but if you start using the car with any regularity, they may
split very soon. How old are they? Original from 1980, and 29-years-old?
If you're going to drift off the tripod and pull the whole shaft apart
so as to replace the outer boots, you'd be really, really "not-very-
smart" to refuse spending the few extra bucks to have new inner boots as
well.
The inner boots have to come off in order to replace the outer boots,
and once they're off there's very little point in putting 29-year-old
inner boots back on again. You really wanna tear back into this job in
six-months time?
> What I can't figure out is how to remove the snap ring, behind the
> inner
> joint. The Haynes manual says to remove this but doesn't elaborate the
> least bit on how to do so. The problem is that there doesn't seem to
> be any way to grasp ahold of it. Normally a snap ring has two small
> holes near the ends, where you insert snap ring pliers. This doesn't,
> and to make matters worse, the inner edges are sloped making it all
> but impossible to grasp with a screwdriver. Add the greasy surfaces to
> the equation and it adds up to a very frustrating situation indeed.
> I'm sure there's a simple answer to this, but this is another first
> for me
> and it doesn't look like something I can figure out on my own.
> Thanks for any advice.
>
>
>
If you're not clamping the shaft in a vise, that's your primary problem.
Do that first. Then...
Two small screwdrivers: Use one to keep the lower end of the snap ring
still, then use the other one to bend the other end up to loosen the
ring. After you've loosened it sufficiently, you can grab the ring in
the middle with the screwdriver and just pull it off the shaft. Since
you're not re-using the snap ring, don't worry about distorting it.
I think you'll find putting the NEW ring on a LOT harder than getting
the old one off. You're best to visit an auto parts place and get a set
of the proper snap-ring pliers for such an application. Since you're in
Canada, try Princess Auto, Canada's "cheap tools" answer to America's
Harbor Freight. You /can/ do it without the proper tool (I've done it),
but that takes the sort of mechanical aptitude that obviates the need to
ask questions about how to do it.
--
Tegger
m6onz5a
My advise is replace the entire axles. If the boots are ripped then
most likely dirt has gotten inside.
Steve W.
Well since you have to pull the entire axle out to work on them the
easier and better solution would be to just replace both axle shafts.
You get new boots, grease and spend a 1/4 of the time working on them.
Those inner boots may look OK but if the outers have failed it is VERY
likely the inners will fail soon as well. Not really worth the
time/effort to replace JUST the boots when a complete axle assembly is
not a lot of extra money.
--
Steve W.
Nate Nagel
Agree. I have repacked/rebooted CV joints before when I had one bad CV
on a VW, but that was the only time I've done it. It was a lot of work
(not hard but time consuming,) and when I was confronted with the same
situation on a 944, I found that I couldn't even buy two new joints for
the price of a reman axle.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
Scott Dorsey
>
>Agree. I have repacked/rebooted CV joints before when I had one bad CV
>on a VW, but that was the only time I've done it. It was a lot of work
>(not hard but time consuming,) and when I was confronted with the same
>situation on a 944, I found that I couldn't even buy two new joints for
>the price of a reman axle.
I'd agree. The thing is, you can pack them with grease that is much higher
quality than the grease that the prepacked reman axle uses.
And I agree also that you should do inners and outers at the same time,
because if one has failed, the other will fail soon also.
If it were my car, and I was absolutely positively sure that the car has
not been driven with the damaged boots much or at all, I would take them
all out, tear the boots off, clean everything with solvent and get all
the old grease out, repack with Mobil 1 racing grease, put new boots on
and put it all back together. It'll be good for years after that, or
until the boots get damaged again.
If the car has been driven at all with dirt in the joints, I'd replace
them.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Chris F.
> rotation, shaft angles and cold. Boots split during the car's regular
> use, not while sitting idle.
>
the steering knuckle.
I'm going to see if a mechanic buddy of mine can help me out with this. If
all else fails I can get a couple of remanufactured driveshafts for about
$200.
Nate Nagel
That's really the way to go, honestly, unless you have a LOT more free
time than money.
Tegger
>> Highly unlikely. Cracking is primarily a result of a combination of
>> rotation, shaft angles and cold. Boots split during the car's regular
>> use, not while sitting idle.
>>
> Now that I think of it, I'm pretty sure the boot tore while I was
> removing the steering knuckle.
Then it was ready to go anyway. When new, those boots are made of REALLY
tough rubber and do NOT rip on their own.
> I'm going to see if a mechanic buddy of mine can help me out with
> this. If all else fails I can get a couple of remanufactured
> driveshafts for about $200.
>
In your case, that might be the best thing to do.
--
Tegger
Chris F.
ball cage, not realizing I should have first removed the large clip from the
inner edge of the joint. Then you slide the CV joint off, remove the snap
ring from the other side of the ball cage, slide off the ball cage, and
remove the inner snap ring. The whole process only takes a few minutes, and
IMO the worst part is dealing with the mess of grease and cleaning up
afterwards. But it still beats paying $200 for new driveaxles, and I learned
something useful in the process.
"Nate Nagel" <njn...@roosters.net> wrote in message
news:hdou7...@news3.newsguy.com...