If you don't have suitable tape, chew some gum. While masticating,
contemplate your engine and see what other vacuum hoses you need to
replace, one by one, as long as you're at the auto supply. (This one
got your attention because of a big vacuum leak in a bad place, but
you may bet that some of its buddies down there are in not much better
condition.) That should get the gum good and ready for its second
act, used in a pinch figuratively and literally as a sealant.
If it is not a custom-shaped hose, you might consider flipping it end
for end in an attempt to get the ruined part (probably the one nearest
the greatest heat dies first) into a better position for improvised
repair. For that matter, think about whether it's long enough for you
to cut off the bad part (definitely a "measure twice, cut once -- or
less" situation though), again as a temporary measure. Make sure it
wouldn't be interfering with any moving parts or resting on something
hot before doing either of these things.
Best of luck,
--Joe
On my way back home from Autozone, I checked at O'Reilly's and NAPA,
they didn't have a rebuild kit in stock and neither did Autozone, they
didn't have a rebuilt carburetor in stock either.A rebuilt carburetor
cost anywhere from around $340.00 up to about $370.00 or thereabouts,
depending on which local area auto parts stores around here sells them.I
don't want to drive my van anywhere now, because the engine is running
too fast now.Anybody have any ideas what I should try next to get the
carburetor working ok?
cuhulin
If it's not the vacuum line, possibly a stuck choke? Is the small
butterfly open or closed on top of the carb? Closed usually means
choke which can cause the engine to idle fast.
Yesterday, I was reading about Carter Thermo Quad carburetors on the
web, some models of those carburetors have tamper proof choke units on
them.I believe I can get that tamper proof choke unit off if I want
to.Maybe somehow I can braze weld the broken choke rod back together
with a handheld propane torch and some old brazing rods I have here.
cuhulin
Sure, but remove the part. I wouldn't braze next to a
carburetor in situ!
Also, disconnect any bimetallic coil from the linkage rod.
On some model Carters (I don't know your model) the fast
idle cam plate can flip upside down when parts are worn and
the choke is disconnected leaving a random (fast? slow?
whatever) setting.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
alternately, if you have a good junkyard nearby, just ask if they have a
thermoquad in their "recycle" pile. I've gotten little linkage bits and
pieces that way, by paying a buck or two for a carburetor that the 'yard
had determined was scrap anyway. I had the exact same problem on a '67
Dart - a PO had disabled the choke by mangling the actuating rod.
Probably worked OK in North Carolina, not so much in PA in the winter.
A few minutes of rooting through a 55 gallon drum of junk carbs and $3
later I had a parts carb of the same model from which to scavenge
linkage bits.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
This one did that:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/NOVADONE.JPG
I have changed several similar ones to manual choke over the
years. Not difficult at all.
Check this site, Cujo
http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/kits/CK195.htm
They stock a bunch of parts and kits for older Dodges.
You might have missed something.
Have a look at this
http://www.cartechbooks.com/cartech/contentfiles/9746.pdf
Here's a link to the blow-up of this carb. There's 10 screws holding the
body together. Please note in the instructions about 2 screws (35)
located by the choke and air horn. Too bad the diagram doesn't really
give a good idea of where these screws are located. Good luck!
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Fuel/77Thermo/Page01-reg.jpg
I saw a website and I am reading,
http://www.thermoquads.com
cuhulin