Chris Bergquist - replace NOSPAM with chrisb1 for e-mail
>Well, I got yelled at again for tracking in dirt/grease from the
>garage. I think I need to paint the garage floor so cleaning is
>easier. Does anyone have any experience and suggestions on how to
>prepare and paint a concrete floor and what products to use. The floor
>is in fairly good shape with only a couple of cracks (doesn't every
>concrete slab in California have at least one crack?). Any suggestions
>on how to clean and patch the cracks before I paint the floor?
I can say that Ace Floor Paint doesn't last too long on a garage floor. Also,
giving new concrete a quick scrub with muriatic acid doesn't seem to get it
clean enough for the paint to stick as well as it should.
Good luck...
Jim
My father-in-law just did this in his new home. You'll have the challange of
getting the surface prepared, and I don't have anything to offer there.
As far as the coating options go, the hot setup is to lay down an epoxy, and
then a polyurathane over that. If you want to go cheaper, then go with just
the epoxy, which you can get anywhere. The poly surface is easier to wipe up
and keep clean. If you want to make the surface skid resistant, you can add
silica to the mix.
Arziona Polymier Floors has some awesome stuff. It ends up running about $100
gal. for both the epoxy and the polyurathane. Coverage is about 200 to 400
s.f. per gal.
Scott
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- First empty the garage ... scrape up any excess grease chunks, etc.
- Next rent one of those floor sanders and go to town on it!
- Next get a commercial degreaser (that orange stuff seems to work
pretty good) and scrub the deep stains.
- Use "Killzs" <spell> or compatible and scrub the entire floor
- lastly use acid to clean up the remains ... let it soak in a bit and
wear a mask!
ONLY use commercial paint and a roller to apply it. DO NOT use that crap
at all the discount stores unless you like doing all that prep you just did
to get this far! Use a nice fat 3/8" roller and open up the place ... it
will fry your brain! Let it dry at least 24 hours before you do anything
else.
You will love the floor if done in this way .... looks great, resists
scratching and is easily cleaned. (It does help to add pads under your jack
stands and that sort of equipment to make sure you do not unintentionally
damage you art work.
............ Sam
Sam Solace
Century Performance Center
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>Arziona Polymier Floors has some awesome stuff. It ends up running about $100
>gal. for both the epoxy and the polyurathane. Coverage is about 200 to 400
>s.f. per gal.
Lets see...1200 sq ft shop, divided by 200 sq ft/gal, equals 6 gallons of
each. That's $1200 to do it right.
Could almost afford to get the carpet professionally cleaned a couple times a
year instead :)
Jim
J. Forbes wrote:
I wish I had a 1200 sq ft garage/shop but I only have a standard two car for
now. Here in California with the outrageous cost of housing many of my neighbors
are converting their garages to additional bedrooms, game rooms or family rooms. I
have tried to convince my wife that we should buck the trend and convert our family
room to a second two car garage or shop. I could keep the carpet and get it
cleaned every year like Jim suggests. Actually, the last time we recarpeted the
house I took a couple of large used pieces and moved them to the garage. Kind of
nice until it got real dirty.
I think Scott hit the nail on the head, preparation is going to be the hard part.
Just a word of caution for anyone who wants to paint their garage
floor: Wait until the concrete cures!
This is a really stupid story.
I had an 800+ square foot garage built in my back yard, and sprung for
the big bucks epoxy paint for the floor. The idiot painting contractor
decided to spray primer on the floor while he was doing the walls, and
the concrete was still green in places. Needless to say, I jumped up
and down, telling him he was stupid for painting green concrete, and he
said, "Oh, don't worry, I paint all the time."
HA!
Well, he put the epoxy on the floor, and we let it set up per
instructions, and stayed off it for a week. The FIRST time I put my
ladder on it, it peeled. DUH! I spent the next few days scraping the
paint off with a large spatula, and had a big mess of peeling primer all
over the whole floor. The stem walls, which were cured, held the paint
perfectly, but the floor was awful.
I made the painting contractor pay for the paint, $$$$$$$, and to have a
sandblasting contractor come out and sandblast the primer off the
floor. This didn't work well, and to this day, 5 years later, I still
have a floor with blotches of primer all over. Since there is so much
stuff in my garage now, repainting the floor is out of the question.
I wish I had never thought of painting it, because had I not messed with
it, I would have at least had a nice, smooth, consistent concrete floor.
So a word of caution: A bare concrete floor is better than a badly
painted floor. So, if you're going to paint your floor, do it right the
first time.
Gerard
--
BOB Oil Recovery System: http://www.bob2000.com
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If we just let it be
The world won't get no better
We gotta change it, yeah, just you and me
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I said it's awesome stuff! (You gotta _SEE_ this floor. It is better than
my Dad's got in his (retail auto repair) shops...)
:^)
In article <jforbes.77...@primenet.com>,
jfo...@primenet.com (J. Forbes) wrote:
>
> In article <6jnk6q$mrs$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com> cott...@yahoo.com writes:
>
> >Arziona Polymier Floors has some awesome stuff. It ends up running about
$100
> >gal. for both the epoxy and the polyurathane. Coverage is about 200 to 400
> >s.f. per gal.
>
> Lets see...1200 sq ft shop, divided by 200 sq ft/gal, equals 6 gallons of
> each. That's $1200 to do it right.
>
> Could almost afford to get the carpet professionally cleaned a couple times
a
> year instead :)
>
> Jim
>
>
J. Forbes wrote in message ...
>In article <6jnk6q$mrs$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com> cott...@yahoo.com writes:
>Jim
If you're concerned about prepping a concrete floor for any type of coating,
check the phone book for a BlastTrac service. It can be done to new and old
concrete. The basics of it is a machine that throws steel shot at the floor
and an attached vaccuum that sucks up all the paint & concrete dust. After
that the floor can be painted with something like Porter Hythane. If you
want a glass slick floor, put down a self leveling epoxy like a Carboline
#2000 first with a notched squeegee. For a no skid surface, mix the sand
with the second coat of Hythane.
Robert D.