BTW, I painted my own daily driver watercooled VW last Sept over a LONG labor
day weekend. I had the good fortune of having had the prep work experience from
my '57 Beetle, plus a good friend who owned a body shop. In spite it still took
me four 12 hours days, $400 in professional autobody paint and supplies. The
result is a car that looks pretty damn good, except for the hood. This car had
had an engine fire before I bought it, and had layers an layers of all kinds of
primers on the hood. I didn't sand it all down as much as I should have.
My objective by the way, was not to make the car a show car, or even look good.
It was to preserve the body for another 3-5 years (it only has a quarter of a
million miles on it after all). There were a few dents, some rust cancer
bubbles and a few other problem areas.
I have been meaning to write up a "DIY" paint article (Ok, you inspired me, I
think I will) but haven't yet. The one thing I will tell you though, and is at
my site's #4 resto articles, is to make sure you use a paint *system*, same
manufacturer and line for primers, sealers, colors, clears, whatever.
I learned a TON painting my own car myself, and I have a new respect for the
shops that do it....
GaryK wrote:
--
John Henry
---------------
Visit the "BugShop" at http://www.geocities.com/thebugshop/
"Stupidity really should be more painful."
John Henry <johns...@sprintmail.com> wrote in message
news:3A9FE9A3...@sprintmail.com...
1) Bodywork and rust removal
2) Sanding
3) Self-etching primer on any bare metal
4) Catalized primer
5) Sanding
6) Sealer
7) Urethane base coat
8) Clear coat
9) Sanding
10) Buff
"AutoRestorer" has had several complete articles on different aspects of
painting and the March 2001 issue started a 3-part series on using a paint
system. By the way, I can't recommend this magazine enough. It accepts NO
commercial advertising and each issue is chocked full of tech info. While
not directed at the VW crowd, no auto restorer would be disappointed by
subscribing to this mag. And no, I'm not associated with the magazine.
I have a couple of general rules I live by. They are:
Rust happens, and happens, and happens, and happens..... I remove all rust.
It has to be cut out. If not, it will happen again.
Bondo isn't an evil word but there are evil users of Bondo. If you try to
put it over rust or try to 'fill' a dent, you qualify as an evil user.
I never depend on rattle can primer to be waterproof because it isn't. If
you want to seal out water and oxygen, use a catalized primer.
Clear coat will orange peel and run. Plan on buying some 1500 grit
sandpaper to flatten it out.
"GaryK" <g...@virtualhosts.net> wrote in message
news:97ooho$k...@dispatch.concentric.net...
Might want to have a look at these sites also.
Good luck. You can do it...just be patient.
Don't get cheap on the brushes and the rollers.
But the great show cars all use a Wagner Power Painter! : )
SF
74 Super Beetle