Auto don't engage so well
scream
I have a 71 auto 1302s which has trouble when I first take off. It sort
of feels like the brake is on and then after a few trial revs it slowly
grabs and I take off. Any ideas what that is? Is really crap up hills.
I took it to the testing station (New Zealand) today for a warrant of
Fitness. Tested the wipers then when I went to turn them off the switch
broke. Then when it was on the brake testing rollers it didn't have
enough grunt to get off them again. Overall did good. Need tyre and
rear brakes are uneven, little bit of rust on the floorpan seams but
passable but I'd really like to be able to get it off the brake tester
when I go for the retest. Embarrassing. The tester didn't like VW's
either. A nut job obviously. But what would cause that unengaging
gearbox thing and how do I fix?
Thanks for your help.
Andrew
Speedy Jim
Although it is "automatic" it *does* have a clutch plate,
just like the manual transmissions. The clutch is operated by
a vacuum diaphragm, controlled by a switch in the shift lever.
There is an adjustment underneath for the clutch. It is a
threaded "turnbuckle" on the diaphragm shaft. If the adjustment
has no effect, the clutch disc is worn.
Haynes has a very good section on the autostick, as does the
Bentley manual.
There is a helpful Forum here:
http://www.schmiddy.de/projekte/stickshift/d_index_0800x0600.html
Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
Jan
enough tranny oil in there?
Jan
scream
There is heaps of oil in the tranny. Previously overfilled so I guess I
should drain that.
Thanks
Speedy Jim
Ah. There is 90W tranny oil (gbox) and then there is
"fluid" for the torque converter. The latter is what Jan meant.
Jim
Jan
Yup.
Jan
--
--------------------------------
Beer is made by fermentation caused by bacteria feeding on yeast cells
and then defecating.
In other words, it's a nice tall glass of bacteria doo-doo.
scream
I am pretty dumb, but it felt like the brakes were stuck on because,
well, the brakes were stuck on. I had to rekit out the rear wheel
cyclinders cause there was a small leak and the brakes were uneven and
when bleeding noticed that one wheel wasn't releasing. But when I
released the bleeder it released the brake so i knew it wasn't the
cylinder or springs. It was the brakes hoses which were fairly blocked
so the pressure of pushing the brake pushed it through but the springs
couldn't push the brakes back to release. The brakes were also hard to
push which I thought was just cause they weren'y power assisted and I
had just got used to being soft.Anyway, changed the hoses, brakes are
good and not so hard to push down and it takes off a lot better -
almost as if the brakes weren't on.
This group is awesome. I don't post much because I can usually do a
search and find the answer so thanks heaps.
Andrew
dragenwagen
That'll do it!!! Yup the rubber flex hoses start to get a build up on the
INSIDE and there is alot of force to push the brake fluid to the wheel
cylinders. But when you let off the brakes all there is, is the small
springs to to release the pressure. Replacing the flex hoses does make a
world of difference!
dw
"scream" <scr...@scream.co.nz> wrote in message
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scream
dragenwagen
running or if it gets brighter while its revs up... I might suspect the
voltage regulator. although it could be the gen itsself or maybe an
electrical connection going bad somewhere in the charging circuit. Speedy
Jim should be able to give a better answer or check out his site for more
info on how to check out this electrical demon.
dw
"scream" <scr...@scream.co.nz> wrote in message
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scream
steady on. Thanks for your advice. I'll give it a go in the weekend.
Andrew