I had heard that the HEI distributor was more moisture-resistant than
OEM installed distributor.
Thanks!
"randal...@mac.com" <randal...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:2d2def44-fa60-487b...@l13g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
Thanks. What is the difference, if any, between HEI and MSD?
Earle
"randal...@mac.com" <randal...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:2d2def44-fa60-487b...@l13g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
"randal...@mac.com" <randal...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:a7529d3d-227a-4623...@m16g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
There are other modifications that you can do if you don't want the HEI
distributor.
BUT all those that have HEI distributors seem to love it! ;-)
I think that http://stores.zmjeeps.com/ was one of the first to have a
drop-in HEI for the AMC 360 engines although I can not easily find it on his
newer website. :-(
"randal...@mac.com" <randal...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:2d2def44-fa60-487b...@l13g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
No, no problems, just looking to possibly enhance a weak point with
this engine by improving the ignition system from stock.
Thank you very much, I will look into this, as I would like a simple
conversion if possible.
Thanks, Bill--I didn't realize that MSD was a brand, but they
certainly do seem to have some good equipment to replace the old
weaker coils, etc.
Thank you very much, I will look into this, as I would like a simple
conversion if possible.
No, no problems, just looking to possibly enhance a weak point with
All things considered, I think you're right. There is nothing wrong
with the starting or running of the engine, so probably best not to
fool with it. It idles a little rough, but that may or may not even
be ignition related, but a carburetor issue. The carburetor was
recently rebuilt, but not really tuned, and I may be better off
focusing on that instead.
Thanks for the advice.
Here are two article that will explain the AMC 360 ignition and
some things you can do:
http://www.ifsja.org/tech/electrical/ignitionupgrade.html
http://fsjeep.homestead.com/TFI_Upgade.html
That being said, it is possible to get a lot of this benefit with
upgraded drop-in components (see below). I was pleased with the
results- idled better and seemed more responsive, although a
totally subjective determination. The only problem is that the
new plug wires are too fat for the Grand Wagoneer wire guides
(don't force them - they will break) so you have to use the MSD
separators listed below.
1. ACCEL 140207 - ACCEL OE Replacement Ford Dura-Spark 45,000 V
Racing Coil
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-140207/
2. MSD Ignition 8414 - MSD Cap-A-Dapt for Ford V8
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8414/
3. MSD Ignition 35859 - MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug
Wire Set
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-35859/
4. PLATINUM POWER SPARK PLUGS, gap to .44
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CPN-3405/
5. SPARK GUARD INSULATING GEL
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8804/
6. MSD Ignition 8845 - MSD Wire Separators
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8845/
"randal...@mac.com" <randal...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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Thanks very much, I will examine the links and the components and
consider going this route.
I'm noticing right away that there is no actual replacement of the
distributor, which I assume to be due to the fact that it all really
happens in the cap and coil, along with the improved wires...?
--snip--
I'm noticing right away that there is no actual replacement of
the
distributor, which I assume to be due to the fact that it all
really
happens in the cap and coil, along with the improved wires...?
Randall:
You are correct- the distributor itself stays the same. The more
knowledgeable Jeep and racing people here can, no doubt, explain
more fully, but the intent is to present a more reliable, hotter
spark to the combustion chamber.
The things that would reduce reliability (plug doesn't "spark"
when desired) are these:
crossfires
misfires
The things that would affect energy or "hotness" of the spark
(not _plug_ hotness) would be the relationship between coil
voltage and spark gap, and sometimes wire resistance.
So the "fixes" are designed to:
1. Reduce crossfires and misfires by improving the insulation of
the components- better wires, wider distributor cap, taller rotor
and improving the electrical connections overall (attention to
making sure that all electrical connections are making optimal
contact, insulated, etc.).
2. Get more spark energy to the plug: lower resistance wires,
higher voltage coil, and a wider gap. The factory gap for the GW
AMC 360 is .035, but increasing this to .044 was recommended
based on the gaps used in similar Ford systems (the stock GW
distributor is a Ford Motorcraft). You could try a further
increase to .054, but this runs the risk of misfires at higher
RPM or as the plugs age, so .044 seemed to be a good compromise.
Plus the back plugs are really hard to access, so swapping plugs
in and out is low on my list.
3. Some of the more exotic improvements seemed to me to make
sense only in the context of racing applications where high RPMs
come into play, so I didn't see much benefit in changing the
centrifugal advance springs.
4. All of this is easily done, looks nice, and is reversible to
the factory configuration without cutting wires or fabricating
brackets or changing mounting positions or anything else.
5. Changing out the stock Motorcraft distributor itself seemed
to me to be a _very_ low bang-for-the-buck modification, and was
not recommended by Gary Boyd in his lucid and thorough analysis.
This is a very good explanation and a good suggestion for a
substantial probability of improvement with really very little
effort. Many thanks!