Marvel Mystery Oil
jere...@gmail.com
works since you can put it in the oil and gasoline tanks and does it
work well still with newer cars, I have 05 Civic. Also, what's the best
time to put it in like early/middle/late life of oil for oil. And for
gasoline empty tank then fill, or after full tank?
TeGGeR®
news:1138377200.6...@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
The very best time to put Marvel Mystery Oil in your car is...NEVER.
Total waste of money. It will do less for you than timely oil changes.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
dimndson...@yahoo.com
Back in the day, you could buy a Marvel Mystery Oil reservoir that
attached to the carburetor and slowly dripped the stuff into the gas,
or so my father told me. I used it 20 years ago as a gas additive in my
Chevy small block. As far as I could tell, it did me no good. Not sure
I'd want to subject my Honda fuel injectors to this stuff.
If you feel the need to add something to your gas add a bottle of
Chevron's Techron every now and again. AFAIK that stuff won't hurt
anything and probably does some good.
I'd never consider adding MMO to my oil because I don't know what it
would do to the viscosity or how it would interact with the oil's
additives. TeGGeR's right, clean oil is good oil.
butch burton
manual that using crank case additives will void the warranty. Back in
the days of lose engines - a increase in viscosity may have been a good
thing - not today - will probably impede lubrication. Any modern oil
that meets all of the current requirements will be fine - just change
it and the filter and do it regularly.
It never ceases to amaze me when I walk past the snake oil section of
auto parts stores - people still buy that stuff.
mtmaurer8ooo
SEAFOAM! or LUCAS OILS FUEL TREATMENT! You can buy them both anywhere.
Gas tank only though. I think that the only thing you should add to
your oil is oil, and that's just if it's low. Mobil 1 is always my
suggestion and change it at 3000 or sooner. As for MMO, I wouldn't
want to trust something that is able to be used in the engine and in
the fuel. Plus, you have a Honda!!! You don't have to do too much to
those things and they'll still run forever, so don't fix what isn't
broken. Run good gas, keep up on maintenance, and that's about it.
See ya. Matt
--
mtmaurer8ooo
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jma...@attglobal.net
The whole concept of marvel oil is a little bogus. Gasoline already
has a lot of oily components in it, and that is what lubes the upper
cylinders well enough for engines to last 300,000+ miles.
Now check out Brazil, which insisted on developing ethanol production
to replace gasoline use. Result is, engines don't last at all. The
alcohol has no lube qualities, and the engine is toast.
Steppenwolf
for a living, was to put a small amount in the inlets of my air tools, then
blowing air through them before putting them away at night... I wouldn't put
it inside an engine, not now, with all of the electronics and sensors, for
sure...
.
<jere...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138377200.6...@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
TeGGeR®
news:1138391326.1...@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
You are full of bovine fecal matter. Gasoline is a SOLVENT, NOT a
lubricant. It washes motor oils off the bore walls.
Gasoline does have a touch of light machine oil in it, but that's for the
injectors, not the bores.
TWW
They still make that -- shades of JC Whitney and the ooo ga horn
TeGGeR®
Gordon McGrew
wrote:
>At least one of the major car companies - DC I think sez in the owners
>manual that using crank case additives will void the warranty. Back in
>the days of lose engines - a increase in viscosity may have been a good
>thing - not today - will probably impede lubrication.
Actually, I think MMO would probably decrease the viscosity of the
oil, and I wouldn't want to do that either. MMO is an old product. If
it had any extraordinary benefits as a crankcase additive, its
components would have been incorporated into motor oils long ago.
That said, I have seen it recommended for various general and special
lubrication purposes. It is probably a very fine light-weight,
general purpose lubricating oil, but it is neither marvelous or
mysterious.
TeGGeR®
news:1138387869.5...@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
> At least one of the major car companies - DC I think sez in the owners
> manual that using crank case additives will void the warranty. Back in
> the days of lose engines - a increase in viscosity may have been a good
> thing
And when was this day of "lose" engines?
Gordon McGrew
I don't know. Gasoline may not be as good a lubricant as oil but I
can see how it would be a lot better than ethanol. Not saying that
he's right, but it isn't implausible IMO.
Do Brazilian liquor burners really go through engines like a drunken
sailor? I hear they are still selling well and by now everyone would
know it if they were self destructing. I couldn't find anything on
the web about it either.
notbob
> They still make that -- shades of JC Whitney....
Hey, don't knock JC Whitney. They've saved my butt more than once. An
example was replacing the aluminized batt insulation in a '69 Dodge
van engine box (the one between the seats) I once owned. I looked
everywhere. Dodge dealers, Autoshops, boat centers, RV centers,
custom shops, you name it. After 2 weeks I was at my wits end. My
buddy suggested I look in JC Whitney . Sure enough, twice as much as
I needed for $30, including shipping. JC Whitney is alright.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/StoreCatalogDisplay/c-10101/s-10101
nb
SoCalMike
> I've heard good things about Marvel Mystery Oil. Just curious how it
> works since you can put it in the oil and gasoline tanks and does it
> work well still with newer cars, I have 05 Civic.
dont waste your money.
jma...@attglobal.net
> lubricant. It washes motor oils off the bore walls.
I specifically said UPPER CYLINDER WALLS. Sure, it would be better to
have some 10W30 up there, but it isn't really happening. Solvent,
lube, whatever. Don't get hung up on labels. Did you take organic
chemistry 30 years ago like I did? There's a lot of oily in gasoline,
and it isn't due to any additive.
My wife has two relatives doing an extended project in Brazil right
now, and they'll agree with me regarding engine longevity.
Sid
Sid
"TeGGeR®" <teg...@tegger.c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns9758BDE...@207.14.113.17...
TeGGeR®
news:223nt1d79d5nsd9co...@4ax.com:
> On 28 Jan 2006 02:00:59 GMT, "TeGGeR®" <teg...@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>
>>"butch burton" <spac...@wi.rr.com> wrote in
>>news:1138387869.5...@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
>>
>>> At least one of the major car companies - DC I think sez in the owners
>>> manual that using crank case additives will void the warranty. Back in
>>> the days of lose engines - a increase in viscosity may have been a good
>>> thing
>>
>>
>>
>>And when was this day of "lose" engines?
>
> I would guess back in 70s and earlier. Tolerances on the parts going
> into engines have gotten much tighter over the years.
Hmmm... Some examples:
2003 Acura RSX crank journal to bearing clearance: .0007"-.0020"
1991 Honda B18A1 crank journal to bearing clearance: .0009"-.0020"
1975 Toyota 2T-C crank journal to bearing clearance: .0006"-.0039"
1956 Chevrolet six or V8 crank journal to bearing clearance: .0007"-.0028".
The tight tolerance is essentially the same from 1956 to 2003, but the
older engines were permitted to get a lot looser before being considered
out-of-spec. I'd suspect metallurgy is a lot better now, so they can afford
to specify tighter tolerances and still get adequate life out of the
engine.
Also, oils back in 1956 or 1975 were not what they are now. Sort of with
poyethylene, back then you had to make it thick to get the film strength.
Now they can do it by making the polymer chains longer and stronger. I
think that and metallurgy have more to do with the lightness of modern oils
than viscosity requirements.
TeGGeR®
news:Xns975AE6E8...@207.14.113.17:
> shawn <nanof...@gmail.com> wrote in
> news:223nt1d79d5nsd9co...@4ax.com:
>
>> On 28 Jan 2006 02:00:59 GMT, "TeGGeR®" <teg...@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>
>>>"butch burton" <spac...@wi.rr.com> wrote in
>>>news:1138387869.5...@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
>>>
>>>> At least one of the major car companies - DC I think sez in the
>>>> owners manual that using crank case additives will void the
>>>> warranty. Back in the days of lose engines - a increase in
>>>> viscosity may have been a good thing
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>And when was this day of "lose" engines?
>>
>> I would guess back in 70s and earlier. Tolerances on the parts going
>> into engines have gotten much tighter over the years.
>
>
>
> Hmmm... Some examples:
> 2003 Acura RSX crank journal to bearing clearance: .0007"-.0020"
> 1991 Honda B18A1 crank journal to bearing clearance: .0009"-.0020"
> 1975 Toyota 2T-C crank journal to bearing clearance: .0006"-.0039"
> 1956 Chevrolet six or V8 crank journal to bearing clearance:
> .0007"-.0028".
Another couple I just found:
1970 Ford 302 V8 crank journal to bearing clearance: .0005"-.0024"
1970 Ford 250 six crank journal to bearing clearance: .0005"-.0022"
I'm not sure those old engines were much looser than modern ones.
TeGGeR®
news:Xns975AE8FD...@207.14.113.17:
>> 1975 Toyota 2T-C crank journal to bearing clearance: .0006"-.0039"
Oops. This is for the smaller 3K engine. the 2T clearances were:
.0013"-.0022", only slightly bigger max than the '02 RSX.
Grumpy AuContraire
"TeGGeRŽ" wrote:
>
> shawn <nanof...@gmail.com> wrote in
> news:223nt1d79d5nsd9co...@4ax.com:
>
> TeGGeRŽ
>
Informative post TeGGer... As a hobbyist who plays with old
Studebakers, I know that all of the factory tolerances were to four
decimal points. That said, the engines did not have the long lived
characteristics of today's designs probably from the standpoint of
lubricants. Certainly, the materials (used by Studebaker) were up to
snuff to modern variety and included virtually no plastic. OTOH, some
of the seals don't approach the reliability of modern design but a plus
is that many components when rebuilt include modern seals.
One other consideration is that earlier American engines never had to
endure the revs that modern Japanese engines thrive on. RPM's topped
out at about 5K unless the engines were modified.
Oh, I do own a Honda, a 1983 Civic FE project that is getting close to
bearing fruit in the form of gas savings...
JT
jere...@gmail.com
find it in stores. Is it recommended that I switch to Mobil 1 or just
stick with Honda Oil? What are the differences?
adamh
No fouled catalytic converer or o2 sensors thus far....only speculation I've heard is that MMO may lower the octane rating of your fuel.....which is why you only add maximum 4 oz. per 10 gallons of fuel, and you'll be fine.
On every "pre owned" vehicle I pull under my wing, I do 2 back to back 3000 mile OCIs with conventional oil (usually SuperTech or PYB) and a pint (that's half a quart) of MMO. Those first 2 OCIs, the oil usually comes out extremely thick and dark/black.....
Dillon Pyron
>I've seen no problems adding MMO to the fuel every fill up (only 4 oz, I use an old Lucas Fuel Injector 5.25 oz. bottle), and to the oil every oil change - typically 1 pint for my 4 and a half qt sump.....no problems thus far.
>
>No fouled catalytic converer or o2 sensors thus far....only speculation I've heard is that MMO may lower the octane rating of your fuel.....which is why you only add maximum 4 oz. per 10 gallons of fuel, and you'll be fine.
>
>On every "pre owned" vehicle I pull under my wing, I do 2 back to back 3000 mile OCIs with conventional oil (usually SuperTech or PYB) and a pint (that's half a quart) of MMO. Those first 2 OCIs, the oil usually comes out extremely thick and dark/black.....
What's the value? I used to use STP, but that was back in the 70s and
early 80s. I also used 104 octane unleaded for a while. But that's
because I also believed in voodoo and my ability to cut .000 lights.
Well, at least I could do .050 lights and one of my horrible profs
died just before finals.
(I can still do better than .095 on a regular basis, but I don't cut
chickes any more.)
--
- dillon I am not invalid
"You idiots, it's rape, pillage,THEN BURN!!!"
--- chief of the Aggie Vikings