1993 Civic VX won't start
goo...@quietquake.com
one day. Took out the battery (7 years old by that point), put in a new
one, started like a champ.
I seldom use the car (3-4 trips a week at most of no more than 5 miles
per). Six weeks after replacing the battery, the car once again
wouldn't start. Wouldn't even turn over. Just got a clicking from the
engine. Interior and dash lights worked fine, though. After a few
attempts at starting, the headlights were weak; I charged the battery
back up and still had the same problem starting. A friend led me
through some testing which seemed to indicate a dead starter. So I
pulled that, got a refurbished one, and put it in.
Now the car still won't start, but has come up with a new failure mode:
When I turn the key to position II, I get rapid clicking from under the
left side of the dash, somewhere above the fusebox. Basic Googling has
turned up a couple posts that suggest the main relay. Any other
possibilities? What testing can I do?
Thanks much,
Sasha
motsco_
Follow the black wire from the battery to where it bolts to ground.
Unbolt and clean it, putting some petroleum jelly on it.Then clean both
battery terminals in a glass of warm water with a teaspoon of baking
soda dissolved. Put petroleum jelly on them as well and put it back
together.
'Curly'
'Curly'
TeGGeR®
news:12ka8f6...@corp.supernews.com:
> goo...@quietquake.com wrote:
>> About 2 months ago my 1993 Civic VX Hatchback just plain wouldn't
>> start one day. Took out the battery (7 years old by that point), put
>> in a new one, started like a champ.
>>
>> I seldom use the car (3-4 trips a week at most of no more than 5
>> miles per). Six weeks after replacing the battery, the car once again
>> wouldn't start. Wouldn't even turn over. Just got a clicking from the
>> engine. Interior and dash lights worked fine, though. After a few
>> attempts at starting, the headlights were weak; I charged the battery
>> back up and still had the same problem starting. A friend led me
>> through some testing which seemed to indicate a dead starter. So I
>> pulled that, got a refurbished one, and put it in.
>>
>> Now the car still won't start, but has come up with a new failure
>> mode: When I turn the key to position II, I get rapid clicking from
>> under the left side of the dash, somewhere above the fusebox. Basic
>> Googling has turned up a couple posts that suggest the main relay.
>> Any other possibilities? What testing can I do?
>>
>>
> -----------------------------------
>
> Follow the black wire from the battery to where it bolts to ground.
> Unbolt and clean it, putting some petroleum jelly on it.Then clean
> both battery terminals in a glass of warm water with a teaspoon of
> baking soda dissolved. Put petroleum jelly on them as well and put it
> back together.
>
Ditto. And clean the battery terminal posts as well, with some
sandpaper.
Finally, check the battery's State-of-Charge:
http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq4.htm
Just because you get 12V when you check it doesn't mean it's fully
charged!
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
me
start. Happens that for some resaon, my 12v connector on the positive
terminal had become a bit loose. I still have trouble explaining why all the
lights would turn on fine but a soon as I cranked it, it would die. Anyhow,
check your connections first as it could be just as stupid as that. My vx is
fine now
good luck
<goo...@quietquake.com> wrote in message
news:1162150316.6...@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
TeGGeR®
news:V6U1h.37678$H9.5...@wagner.videotron.net:
> Mine did that just 3-4 weeks ago. The rapid clicking sound. Car would
> not start. Happens that for some resaon, my 12v connector on the
> positive terminal had become a bit loose. I still have trouble
> explaining why all the lights would turn on fine but a soon as I
> cranked it, it would die.
Because the lights are low-draw devices. The starter is a high-draw device.
Bad connections can make the starter draw every available amp the battery
has, leaving nothing for anything else.
jim perry
>
jim beam
> I am curious, does the VX really get 60 mpg's ?
>>
>
transmission, and is driven conservatively, yes.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
Tinkerer
"jim beam" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:j9ku2e$hrk$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
>> I am curious, does the VX really get 60 mpg's ?
>>>
>>
>
Is that the same kind of transmission that was originally (this side of the
pond) on Daf cars and later appeared on Ford Fiestas and Volvo 340s. It
had two drive belts that ran on self adjusting cones to change the ratio in
line with vehicle speed? If I remember correctly it still ran fine if one
of the belts snapped.
--
Tinkerer
jim beam
the daf and volvo transmission you're describing did indeed run fine on
just one belt, in emergency. with two however, its performance in rain,
snow and mud was superb. all the advantages of a "limited slip diff"
without the complication or expense.
i'm pretty sure the frod transmission uses just one belt like the honda.
it's a common and reliable system popular with most manufacturers in
most markets except the usa.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
Tinkerer
somewhere that Daf invented it and the patent went when they sold out to
Volvo who then licenced others to use it (for a profit of course). Don't
know if that is the case but it seems probable.
--
Tinkerer
jim beam
similarity between the daf and honda systems. and i believe that the
moving cone gearing concept had been used on conveyor belts decades
before daf adapted it to automotive use, so i doubt honda or anyone else
would pay to license.
afaicfo, the main delay in adoption was reliability. daf belts used to
break regularly, and most people considered this to be a barrier to
ownership since the dealer used to charge so much for replacement. [i
think it was in fact a common industrial belt, so easy and cheap to get
if you knew where to look].
talking with people here in the u.s., they're very prejudiced against
cvt's, citing "but what if it breaks" as their reason. fact is, cvt's
are no less reliable and no harder to fix than traditional automatics,
and can in fact be more reliable since the controls are simpler. i
talked with a honda cvt owner a while back that had 300k on his, and
apart from the factory clutch recall, had had no issues with it. i
don't think he ever realized what kind of transmission it was and so
just drove it without worrying.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
Tinkerer
--
Tinkerer