I saw a posting on this newsgroup that helped my out. I'll repost the
message for anyone's benefit who may be having the same problem. Seems
like the problem spans over Ford Explorers including model years 98, 99,
and 2000. The problem I had was just plain and simple...the radio
display just went blank...everything else worked...though, it is
frustrating not knowing what station is playing or if you depend on the
time of the display. I consider my Explorer "pampered"...it's always in
a garage when not in use...not exposed to much extremes in temperature,
for the most part (though we put a lot of miles on it when it was used
in my former sales position), so I anticipate this is an even more
common problem with others who may leave their Explorer outside. If you
do not feel comfortable doing this yourself, contact me at the email
listed - dharr...@STOP.SPAM.NOW.carolina.rr.com, just remove the
"STOP.SPAM.NOW." To supplement my unemployment benefits while I hunt
for permanent employment, I'm looking to repair radios for those who
don't feel comfortable doing it themselves (there will be a cost...I'm
looking at a cost of $89.99 plus shipping...price subject to change if
the demand gets too high...it's less than the $455 that I was quoted) .
Please, I'm limiting the repairs to those radios that are displaying the
same problem that I had...a blank (or dim) display...don't send me a
radio that has other problems. If I can't fix it, I won't charge except
for the shipping. I am an Electrical Engineer, so I have some
background in dealing with these issues...though I haven't made a career
of the electronics repair side of the business. If Ford doesn't come to
their senses and repair this problem for the owners, well, I guess I
ought to thank them for a new career.
If you'd like to do it yourself, I'll be happy to guide you through what
worked for me. If there's enough interest, I'll even do a web site to
show how to remove the radio using a clothes hanger...you'll save
yourself the hassle of trying to find a removal tool...my local AutoZone
told me to just use a clothes hanger instead of buying the tool.
Here's the directions that helped me...Good Luck:
By opening up the radio you will find a narrow display power board
within the left side of the radio (faceplate toward you). This board
has a metal cover soldered to it, with a toroid (wire wound doughnut)
inside on one side, and a bank of surface mount resistors and capacitors
on the bottom side. One end of the board (SCR heat sink) is screwed to
the heat sink at the back of the radio, the board is secured with 2
metal bend-tabs, and it has a white mini connector on the other end
which connects to the faceplate. Remove the board from the radio.
On the bottom of the board look for surface mount components
R1057/C1071/R1058/C1083/R1064. The colder these resistor/capacitor
chipsets get, the brighter the display. I left the car out in the +5 f
degree weather and the display worked until it warmed up a little. That
is how I was able to track it down to these temperature sensitive
parts. Freeze-it also helped after I narrowed it down to a few
components.
The fix that worked for me was to re-molten the solder for each end of
these surface mount components. Be very careful if you try this, as a
big soldering iron, or a lot of heat will destroy the components and
board. And don't do this with the radio plugged in. If you're not
comfortable doing this take it to a friend who is. So far this fix has
kept working for a week, I hope it is permanent.
Disclaimers - don't try this without proper training. It may not be the
same problem that mine had. Don't hold me financially liable to any
damage or expenses you may incur. Fix suggestion is not meant to put
anyone's audio repair business out of business, etc,...
~Thanks to Everett Cotton for the posting these directions (which in
posted from someone else).
Again, I will re-emphasize Everett's disclaimer: I will not accept
liablility for anyone's repair attempts. This information is posted for
informational purposes only. Don't try this without proper training.
Any repair attempts are at your own risk. It may not be the same
problem that mine had. Don't hold me financially liable to any damage
or expenses you may incur. This fix suggestion is not meant to put
anyone's audio repair business out of business, etc,...
Regards and Good Luck,
D Harrison
dharr...@STOP.SPAM.NOW.carolina.rr.com
"D Harrison" <dharr...@STOP.SPAM.NOW.carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3CD6C66A...@STOP.SPAM.NOW.carolina.rr.com...
>Would you think this is heat related? I have a '98 but have had no problems
>with the radio yet. I have noticed that after playing a CD for more than an
>hour the disc is very warm after ejecting it. I have wondered if the
>following would be a cure. I have not had the radio unit out of the dash,
>but with 2 a/c ducts right above the radio, what would you think of cutting
>a couple of holes in the a/c duct to help cool the radio unit?
>wth
most cd-players, with on-board amplifiers, tend to warm cd's.
If the cd is capable of burning you, then it's a problem.
I suggest getting a 12V fan from radio shack and wiring it near the
radio to increase underdash air circulation.
cutting holes in the a/c duct will work as well, but might create a
whistle.
-----------------------------------------------------
Contact: corpsie.com/contact/mail.html
My sister-in-law has a 98' Mountainer that had this problem. She took it to
a local "expert" who wanted a lot ($800) to fix the problem (she also has a
busted cd changer in the console). I saw this article and did the fix on the
radio yesterday and it is lit up like a tree!!!
I was wondering how long this fix is good for and does it make sense to just
replace the stupid power supply for the display instead of touching up the
solder joints every so often.
Also, if anyone has any pointers on the cd changer as to why it will not
load disks or eject the magazine I would appreciate that. I did take it out
and clean out all the junk inside that has fallen in over the years but it
still justs clicks and clacks but does not work. Why they thought that
mounting a changer with the face up in the center console is a good idea is
beyond me.
Thanks again
"D Harrison" <dharr...@STOP.SPAM.NOW.carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3CD6C66A...@STOP.SPAM.NOW.carolina.rr.com...
Probly so you don't have to go in the trunk to change cd's. It would be kinda
hard to get the cd's in if the face was down. There is a sliding door to cover
the opening.
"JaWise" <jaw...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020508184540...@mb-mv.aol.com...
Good Luck.
D. Harrison
dharr...@STOP.SPAM.NOW.carolina.rr.com
Now if I can find out why I have a popping coming out of the steering column (as
if it's coming from my shocks)...always something to keep me busy.
Regards,
D Harrison <dharr...@STOP.SPAM.NOW.carolina.rr.com>
Thanks
"D Harrison" <dharr...@STOP.SPAM.NOW.carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3CD6C66A...@STOP.SPAM.NOW.carolina.rr.com...
My borther-in-law loves sunflower seeds ....
One was jammed in the cartridge release mechanism. All is well now.
Thanks
"D Harrison" <dharr...@STOP.SPAM.NOW.carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3CDB3E6D...@STOP.SPAM.NOW.carolina.rr.com...
"AZGuy" <jim...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:pj36eukmjlr17gm23...@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 16 May 2002 00:58:32 GMT, "David Racker"
> <dc...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
> >Had a early '90's Explorer on a 3 year lease and loved it. Been envious
for
> >another ever since. I want to buy a car in another couple of months and
am
> >eyeing the 2002 Limited or Eddie-loaded and new. How do they hold their
> >value?
>
> Typically jap nameplates hold value a little to a lot better.
>
> > How to warrantees stack up to Japanese SUVs?
>
> 36 months is 36 months (or whatever the length is).
>
> > Have the roll over
> >problems been solved?
>
> THere never were any roll over problems. There are many cars with
> higher rollover rates then Explorers ever had.
>
> >What about long term maintainability....good or not
> >so good?
>
> Good in my experience.
>
> > Some of you Explorer fans could give me a heads up on what to
> >expect if I get one. I'd prefer buying USA built but GM is out of the
> >question having been burned bad in the '80 by GM product. Thanks in
> >advance. DCR
> >
>
> I know how it feels when you get burned but IMHO it's kind of silly to
> base "today's opinion" on something that happened 2 decades ago. You
> can get a lemon no matter what you buy. My solution is to just get an
> extended warranty to cover things out to 100K and 7 years. An
> extended warranty on a non-jap vehicle will cost you less then the
> extra you pay just to buy a jap vehicle. I've known plenty of people
> with jap vehicles who had expensive repairs after the factory warranty
> ran out. There is a reason all the jap dealerships have large service
> facilities just like non-jap do. I saw a comparison of yearly
> maintenance cost put together by fleet owners and there wasn't but
> about a $200 a year difference between the good vehicles and the bad
> ones. It included domestic and imported makes.
I have an '02 Limited that replaced an '02 Eddie Bauer (more about that
later), that replaced an '00 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited that was Lemon
Law'd (warping brakes ... changed every 6,000 miles!!)
Overall, I could not be happier -- both with the Limited and with Ford's
service.
I suspect that depreciation may be a tad quicker than the import comparables
(i.e. 4-Runner, MB 320, etc.), but believe that this is clearly offset by
the lower overall service/repair costs over the lifetime of the truck. If
you hang around this group a while, you'll find lots of folks who have
150,000+ miles without any serious maintenance issues. Also, we wanted a
TRUCK based SUV, so the converted mini-vans (i.e. Lexus RX300, Highlander,
MDX, etc) were not on the screen.
Now as to my own little story, it a nutshell our new EB came with a nasty
loud squeak from deep inside the firewall that appeared around 300 miles.
After the dealer said "cannot be repaired" and a traveling Ford engineer
said "Wow, I've ever seen or heard of something like this ... replace it
NOW!" we picked out a new Limited. They (Ford and the dealer) were terrific
and I am absolutely convinced that this was a very isolated case.
We eventually choose a Limited over another Eddie Bauer primarily for the
dark interior. With a 3-year old in the house, we had begun to notice quite
a few little stains on the light interior in the EB. So, since equipment
wise they are identical, we went with the Limited.
We have the 4WD V-6 with the towing package and are getting a solid 16 MPG
in town and better than 20 MPG on the road - not bad for a SUV of this size.
Ride and handling are terrific and the availability of the 3rd seat (on
those very rare occasions we actually NEED a 3rd seat!!) was a tie breaker
with several competitors. Quality of fit an finish have also been
excellent. No rattles in this dash in over 2,000 miles!!
Hope you check out the direct competitors and reach the same conclusion ...
the 02 is a terrific SUV!! We plan to keep ours as the primary mode of
transport for a while ... then the beloved second car ... then maybe I'll
teach my 3-year old to drive it when they are BOTH the right age!!
Cheers!!
Ken
"David Racker" <dc...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:H_EE8.2812$D41.2...@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
"Ken" <k...@gateway.com> wrote in message
news:3GOE8.45323$Po6....@rwcrnsc52.ops.asp.att.net...
--
.
pAUL
^O^O^
.
The preservation of liberty depends upon the intellectual and moral
character of the people. As long as knowledge and virtue are diffused
generally among the body of a nation, it is impossible they should be
enslaved....John Adams
.
It also helps if they're armed....pAUL
.
"David Racker" <dc...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:YuDE8.25039$Vm2.9...@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...