Repairing Mini Van automatic door
ng_reader
open if left in the cold overnight. After the door or inside reach above
60F, no problems to be found.
This, I assume, is something that will actually get worse over time, as
opposed to better.
Aside from locating a motor (or two?), are there any other steps I can
preventatively do to make this door function better in the cold?
-Mr. Curious
Art
could make the moving parts including the door and weatherstripping sticky.
"ng_reader" <wilgr...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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NewMan
daughter spilled a soft drink (without telling me), and I almost could
not get the sliding door open a week later! That sugarry crap is like
CEMENT!
ng_reader
I will take a look see, however, the root cause is ambient temperature, not
actual movement.
"NewMan" <Cloaked...@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:kn22l2d5q2k9n1ftp...@4ax.com...
@hotmail.com FeMaster
the wrong kind of lube was used in conjunction with the motor mechanism
and/or channels, and when it gets cold it's too thick and won't allow the
motor to turn properly or makes the door sluggish... I have no experience
with powered doors (sounds like a lazy man's feature to me), but are these
capable of being opened manually? If so, does if feel hard to move when
it's cold?
"ng_reader" <wilgr...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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NewMan
is designed to disengage if there is too much physical resistance - to
prevent damage to the motor!
Now it could also be an internittant problem with the body control
module, but it pays to check the simple stuff first.
I may pay to dress the rubber on the door gasket with a light spray
silicone. This would siplace moisture, ensure proper seal, and also
prevent the rubber from freezing to the metal.
maxpower
Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech
ng_reader
"maxpower" <damnni...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:IvadnbQn6chY18_Y...@comcast.com...
with temperature in the low 40s seemed to foul it.
It's in the garage now, so, not such a big deal.
But, oh yeah, opening and closing the automatic door manually is much harder
than the other door which is completely manual. Besides the added weight,
you are dealing with friction from stationery drive gears.
damnnickname
prevent from opening and closing automatically when the temps drop below
the set specs. I forget what the spec was but it is alot colder then what
you specified.
Since your door is very hard to open and close manualy you will need to
have the motor inside the door replaced. The clutch has worn out and in
order to fix the problem you have to buy the clutch and get the motor
free. It comes complete
Glenn beasley
Chrysler Tech
ng_reader
"damnnickname" <damnni...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d9d798803a1f3f01...@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...
The car is still under warranty, being repaired by the local dealer, with
just a minimum deductible.
I took the van there last winter and they stated they were not able to
duplicate the problem. (It was there for another reason, posted here, that
was repaired in warranty)
I suppose I could demand that they just repair it, as I *know* there is a
problem.
maxpower
Glenn
Ken Weitzel
Hi Glenn...
Not a mechanic so I have no right to speak to this; further I
don't have a minivan nevermind a power operated door one, so I
really can't speak to this... :)
But I'd respectfully offer the following, if I may.
The motor must be clutched in some manner, else opening the
door manually would simultaneously be spinning the motor at
about a gazillion rpm's - incredibly difficult if not impossible.
(try turning your [unplugged] electric drill chuck by hand to see
what I mean)
So if we can agree that the motor is mechanically isolated
when it's not operating, then the motor can have no effect
on manual operation ?
I'd be preferring to look at a warped track, loose screws,
a "something" dropped into the track, water getting into the
track and freezing...
The only motor related thing might be if the clutching
device weren't releasing... like a starter solenoid not
coming back...
Take care.
Ken
maxpower
"Ken Weitzel" <kwei...@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:m_M4h.285729$5R2.249516@pd7urf3no...
Sure you do, you have all right to speak!!
>
> But I'd respectfully offer the following, if I may.
>
> The motor must be clutched in some manner, else opening the
> door manually would simultaneously be spinning the motor at
> about a gazillion rpm's - incredibly difficult if not impossible.
>
> (try turning your [unplugged] electric drill chuck by hand to see
> what I mean)
>
> So if we can agree that the motor is mechanically isolated
> when it's not operating, then the motor can have no effect
> on manual operation ?
>
> I'd be preferring to look at a warped track, loose screws,
> a "something" dropped into the track, water getting into the
> track and freezing...
Nope it needs a motor assembly.
>
> The only motor related thing might be if the clutching
> device weren't releasing... like a starter solenoid not
> coming back...
The drive motor has 3 parts and they are: the motor, the gear reduction and
the clutch assembly. When the clutch goes bad it does not release the gear
reduction and this makes the door hard to open manually. If the OP was to
remove the lower gear at the bottom of the door (disengage the motor from
the door) he will see that the door will now manually open freely.
Buy the clutch for about $300 and get the motor free
>
> Take care.
>
> Ken
>
ng_reader
"maxpower" <damnni...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:kvGdnY7epslDI87Y...@comcast.com...
But, by your suggestion, when the techs at the local Chrysler dealer
"tested" this function, they found no abnormality? Or, perhaps, as was
probably the case, they just pushed the button --- it worked --- pushed the
button again --- it closed --- case closed.
My power of persuasion can be somewhat remarkable, however, as I don't use
these guys except for warranty work, it tends to make me feel just a wee bit
cheezy.
Art
how many repairs done at the same time so unless you enjoy paying an extra
deductible, make them fix the door with the other repair they are currently
doing.
"ng_reader" <wilgr...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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ng_reader
"Art" <begunaNOS...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:4N%4h.4644$0r....@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> If you have a CHrysler service agreement you pay one deductible no matter
> how many repairs done at the same time so unless you enjoy paying an extra
> deductible, make them fix the door with the other repair they are
> currently doing.
>
>
It's a 3rd party that was allowed a one-time transference. I am the 2nd
owner, and was just pleased that the dealer took it as payment for my back
rack & pinion. The door is an inconvenience, not a "must have".
But, reading here, I think it would make sense to get this car scheduled and
let them know ahead of time that there is a problem, I will pay them until
they fix it, and I will NOT pay them a fee just to tell me there isn't a
problem.
[which like countless other tax-paying law abiding US citizens I have to do
on a semi-regular basis. Was that too bitter?]
ng_reader
philthy
parts are thrown at it there was big issues with motor clutches and latches
philthy
have a real problem and you do not waste your time doing useless things such
as taking the time to take your car in there if there is not a problem the real
issue is they do not want to do stuff without getting cash and they do not get
as much doing warranty work so you suffer and the first excuse they use is
could not duplicate issue or no problem found when the real truth is they did
not spend much time looking at it as they should have
if it doesn't bite the tech in the nose it's no problem found but sometimes
you will get a guy like glenn who can pick up on stuff others won't. try
another dealer
my boss makes it clear the no problem found does not fly in his shop but then
again i'm a salary tech and not flat rate and i wil;l take the time to find it
and fix it
ng_reader
Thanks for the other post, too. I will explain the situation more clearly
to the dealership so that my expected results are more clearly in line with
heir's.
"philthy" <dbr...@cac.net> wrote in message
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