Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 1/6
2 views
Skip to first unread message
Dr. David Zatz
May 23, 2013, 3:23:23 AM5/23/13
to
Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part1
Posting-Frequency: 60 days
Last-modified: 2013/05/22
Version: 6.4a
This section is generally revised every 400 days.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to f...@allpar.com.
Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.
Instead, go to allpar.com and provide feedback from there.
Thank you.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
* Important Note * Chrysler generally refers to the full Chrysler
Corporation (Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth, DeSoto, Eagle, Simca, Rootes
Group, Sunbeam, Singer, Hillman, Humber, AMC, etc).
DISCLAIMER:
The author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors or
omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information
or opinions contained herein.
Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.
The maintainer does not claim to be an authority.
Information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
given to the writers and maintainer; and it is not published in
book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the
maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE
copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
(David Zatz - contact me via allpar.com).
- - - - - - - - - - - -
The latest copy may be obtained from
http://www.allpar.com/faq.html which links to rtfm.mit.edu
- - - - - - - - - - - -
CONTENTS
Part 1 -
Related Resources (groups, Web sites, recall/TSB info)
Before You Post, Read This!
Frequently Asked Chrysler/Mopar Questions
Up and Coming
The Newsgroup: charter, notes, rationale
Part 2
What should I do...
1. ... before I post?
2. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
3. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)
Oil Filter Discussion
List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s
List of All Body Styles Since 1966
Part 3 (to be discontinued or changed)
Engine Codes
Classic Car Troubleshooting
Reading codes without a scan tool
(computer controlled, carbureted engines)
Crankcase inlet air filter, 2.2/2.5 engines.
Part 4: Discontinued
Part 5: Discontinued
Part 6: Discontinued
************************************************************************
BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS
1. Check the FAQ.
2. Paranoia, overposting, and thoughtless posts are common.
Show off your intelligence and maturity.
3. Do not confuse Chrysler with your dealership,
the zone office, or the guy who picks up the phone.
4. If you are having problems with Chrysler or your dealer, read
the relevant parts of the FAQ (1, 2) and the Web site.
5. The natural inclination of people who have been mistreated is
to respond to many posts. However, all companies sometimes make
lemons or fail to treat customers well. Try to restrain anger.
************************************************************************
- Related Resources:
http://www.allpar.com/ - massive owner/enthusiast site
* Models, history, repair, performance info
Phone Numbers
1-800-992-1997 Chrysler Customer Service - USA
1-800-465-2001 Chrysler Canada
1-800-255-9877 adapting new vehicles for people w/disabilities.
1-800-626-1523 Mopar catalog of manuals, videos, books (free)
1-800-677-5782 local 5-Star Dealer locator
Mopar Performance Tech Line: 1-888-528-HEMI.
Hours are Monday through Friday, 9 AM to 5 PM ET.
Other Resources
Plymouth Owners Club (Plymouth & Fargo)
203 Main St., Cavalier, North Dakota 58220
Award winning magazine http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/
WPC Restorers' Club (Walter P Chrysler Club)
Also a good magazine!
http://www.chryslerclub.org/
NCPC -- National Chrysler Products Club
http://www.nationalchryslerproductsclub.com/
Chrysler Canada Customer Service:
Chrysler Center, P.O. Box 1621
Windsor, Ontario N9A 4H6
Chrysler Europe NV
Woluwedal 106-108, 1200 Brussels, Belgium - Europe
Chrysler Employees Motorsports Assoc: http://www.cemaclub.org/
Valiant-Dart-Duster-etc series, http://www.valiant.org/
Newsgroups
rec.autos.makers.chrysler
rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys
Chrysler was the first make in the rec.autos.makers.* hierarchy,
and beat both GM and Ford to having a Big Seven newsgroup!
The first request for discussion was filed by David Zatz on
July 28, 1994.
************************************************************************
Thanks to Gene Fusco for the Mopar Mailing List's FAQ; thanks also to
Lloyd R. Parker, Wayne Toy, Bohdan Bodnar, and Dan Stern.
*************************CONTENTS*****************************
This is divided into corporate and car sections.
I. CHRYSLER CORPORATE AND ALLIANCES
1. What does DCX mean? DaimlerChrysler
DCX was DaimlerChrysler's stock symbol. The Daimler part was
renamed Daimler in 2007 after Chrysler Group was sold to
Cerberus. From Cerberus, Chrysler Group LLC
went into bankruptcy; its "good" assets were purchased by
a new company majority-owned by a pension fund and controlled
by Fiat SpA. It is now majority-owned by Fiat and Fiat is
expected to either merge with Chrysler or buy it outright.
At that point many expect Fiat to move the corporate headquarters
to a third country such as the UK which does not tax profits
earned in other jurisdictions, cutting Fiat's tax rate to
around 1% (if that).
2. What's the deal with the government bailout?
Chrysler went into Chapter 11 bankruptcy and in a "fast track" deal,
the U.S. and Canadian governments, and (via trading pension obligations)
the union VEBA, financed the creation of a new company which acquired
most of Chrysler's core assets.
Fiat was to get 35% of Chrysler. The
majority was owned by the VEBA in exchange for billions of dollars of
unfunded pension and benefits obligations; the VEBA has no voting rights.
The U.S. and Canadian governments eventually sold their own shares to
Fiat.
Fiat has provided its small car, tiny engine, and diesel technologies,
and its
dimensions for compact and midsized cars, which are used by Chrysler
as the basis for a wide range of vehicles. Fiat's platform (dimensions)
was developed at great expense and Chrysler needed one, since
Daimler forced
them to use Mitsubishi's, which was not seen as ideal.
Other key Fiat technologies are small engines, diesel engines,
small dual clutch automatics, and MultiAir, an air-activated variable
valve lift and timing system that works on individual cylinders, one at
a time. It is more expensive than Chrysler's variable cam technology but
a little more effective. So far it has not been adapted to any
Chrysler engine.
The end result is a Chrysler which contributes
large vehicle products and technologies to Fiat in return for Fiat's
small car (and large van) products and technologies. This saved the
government billions of dollars in unemployment, prevented disastrous
supplier bankruptcies that would have knocked out Ford and GM, avoided
the loss of a large part of America's manufacturing base, and overall was
a win-win given the alternative.
Fiat has been open about its use of Chrysler technologies in the
Fiat Freemont
and Lancia cars, and less open about adapting the Pentastar V6
block for
Maserati and the Chrysler LX platform, also for Maserati. Fiat
has been
open about basing the Maserati Levante on the Jeep Grand
Cherokee, and
Dodge and Alfa Romeo are working together on a rear wheel drive
midsized car.
Rebadged Chryslers sold by Fiat are the Fiat Freemont (Dodge Journey),
Lancia Thema (Chrysler 300), Lancia Voyager (Town & Country), and
Lancia Flavia (200). Chrysler sells an upgraded version of the Fiat
Ducato van as the Ram ProMaster, with its own gasoline engine and
transmission.
3. What is Chrysler's US customer service number? 800-992-1997
4. What is Chrysler's e-mail address?
Contact Chrysler via a Web form - see "contact us" on their
brand web sites (e.g. dodge.com, chrysler.com, jeep.com).
5. What about the merger / takeover back in 1998 that ended the old
Chrysler Corporation?
Chrysler execs got about $60 million in personal profit.
Daimler bought Chrysler, doubling their profits, then
reportedly siphoned off Chrysler profits via accounting
tricks to make Mercedes look more profitable.
Daimler spent Chrysler's $8-10 billion war chest.
Only one Chrysler rep was left on the board from the original four.
Plants were sold. Decontenting to fix Mercedes' losses became noticeable.
For the final outcome, see question 1.
6. What about building cars in China?
See http://www.allpar.com/cars/concepts/dodge/china-car.html
for the original Cerberus plan, which is dead now. Chrysler and
Fiat will build cars in China and India - for sale within China and India.
Jeep was one of the first automakers to have a Chinese plant,
but it was taken by Mercedes during the DCX years.
The China-car plan was replaced by the use
of small Fiats, some of which are built in Mexico. Others are to be
built in the US and Europe.
7. What's the deal with Chrysler and Mitsubishi?
At one time Chrysler owned a large share of Mitsubishi and was planning to
buy the full company, the idea buying to take advantage of Mitsubishi's
small car prowess and manufacturing technologies. Some cars were jointly
developed, including Avenger/Sebring and Caliber. Chrylser lead
both, though they used newer Mitsubishi basic platforms.
Partnerships with Mitsubishi have ended completely.
9. How reliable are Consumer Reports' ratings?
See the discussion at http://www.allpar.com/cr.html
10. How can I get help for problems Chrysler won't fix?
See the discussion at http://www.allpar.com/trouble.html.
Keep trying the Chrysler Customer Center. Know the TSBs.
Visit http://www.nhtsa.gov ... keep trying and keep your cool.
11. What's the deal with Chrysler Europe, Simca, and Talbot?
Chrysler owned Simca and Rootes until the late 70s, but
sales kept going up and down (usually down). Peugeot bought them
and sold the Omni as the Talbot. They had Simca/Sunbeam engines
(Lloyd Parker). The Centura sold in Australia was a Simca (Dan Stern).
See http://www.allpar.com/world/ for many details.
These cars and the former Rootes Group brands, such as Singer,
Sunbeam, Hillman, and Humber, are covered by
http://www.rootes-chrysler.co.uk/
********
14. Should I use high octane gas?
Only if your car was designed for it (see your owner's manual) or if
you've advanced the timing or your engine is knocking. According to
Chrysler and others, many high-octane gasolines have a low
driveability index, which can cause long cold start times,
warm-up sags, hesitations, and driveway die outs. Under the law,
ALL gasolines sold in the US must meet certain standards for
detergent; if you really need to "drive your engine clean" get a
bottle of Techron or Mopar engine cleaner.
Chrysler turbo engines have all been designed to use premium, as do
SRT engines use premium. Most others run on regular. Some 3.5s run
on midgrade.
20. Is X good for my engine? (includes Slick50)
The Toyota FAQ (Todd Haverstock) sez: "Independent labs as well
as engine manufacturer Briggs and Stratton have rendered a
verdict that Slick 50 and similar oil treatments are useless."
The Gasoline FAQ says most gasoline additives are useless.
Others have weighed in on that score, and DuPont sued to prevent
Slick 50 from using Teflon (unsuccessfully).
22. Did the first-gen Mini really use a modified Neon engine?
Yes, it's a smaller version of the Neon engine designed for European
Neons and a small Chrysler that never materialized (due to Daimler-Benz).
The factory was a joint venture with Rover.
23. What does SOHC, SMPI, etc mean? What do I have?
Note: No current Chrysler has a distributor or throttle body injection.
* DIS means distributorless ignition system. No rotor!
* SOHC and DOHC refer to the number of camshafts; one or two.
* EFI means electronic fuel injection, such as the following:
* TBI - throttle body injection; one or two injectors
spray fuel into the air as it heads to the cylinders.
* MPI uses one fuel injector for each cylinder. It sprays fuel in
the intake manifold, firing at the intake valves. Smoother than
TBI, with more power *and* better mileage.
* SMPI is sequential multiple-point injection; the injector only
fires when the fuel can go straight through the valve and into
the cylinder instead of splashing onto a closed valve.
* Direct injection sprays fuel directly into each cylinder.
This is mainly used in diesel engines (thanks, Michael Turley!)
-- Note: all current Chrysler products use DIS and returnless
SMPI. Mitsubishi is pioneering direct injection for gas engines.
The current system is coil on plug ignition which provides a separate coil
for each spark plug, located right on top of the plug, for the best control
and spark power.
25. What kind of oil should I use?
For the old 2.2 and 2.5 (1980s-1990s), 5W30 is best for winter
or year-round in mild climates - but check your owner's manual
to be sure. (Use the manual instead of asking your dealer.)
Synthetics seem to have a major advantage in cold weather especially
if you do a lot of cold starts, and are generally advisable for turbos.
Oil grade is very important for the Hemi due to its MDS.
CHECK YOUR MANUAL.
For my 1990s cars, recommended oil changes were at 6 months / 7,500
miles. GM says many owners do not need to change oil until 10,000 miles,
once a year, due to the far far higher quality of modern oils.
If you are really concerned,use synthetic and change at 6,000. Very
few people need 3,000 mile changes. Chrysler is switching over to
"car controlled" oil changes (the car advises the owner when an oil
changes is needed in the next 500 miles based on various internal
guidelines -- not a sampling of the actual oil).
See http://www.allpar.com/news/index.php/2012/07/17855
26. What kind of engine do I have ???
Raise the hood and check the emissions sticker. You can decode your
vehicle ID number (VIN) using most car manuals. The emissions sticker
will tell you the displacement of the engine.
See -> http://www.allpar.com/mopar/vin-decoder.html
27. What is a Mopar? Do I have one?
Mopar is slang for a Chrysler-produced car. Some extend it to AMCs
and to MMC products (e.g. Colt) sold by Chrysler; some restrict it to
high performance only. It is the name of Chrysler's parts division.
Mopar stands for MOtor PARts. MoPar is a registered trademark.
28. Which were the Diamond Star models?
Diamond Star models are those built by the Diamond Star (DSM)
plant in Illinois. This was a joint venture but is now 100%
MMC. The Stealth, Colt, Sapparo, Ram 50, and FWD Challenger
were re-badged Mitsubishis made in Japan. There are no current cars sold
by Chrysler from the Diamond Star plant for from Mitsubishi.
29. What are the K-cars?
Herb DaSilva:
... Chrysler used the components on the Aries/Reliant (K) in many of
its other platforms. These platforms... share similar distance
between the wheels on the same axle, and have the same suspension
design. Most K variants can swap struts (H is an exception).
K derivates include: Laser (pre-88)/Daytona (G), Shadow/Sundance
(P), LeBaron/New Yorker (J), LeBaron sedan (pre-90)/Lancer
(H), Dynasty/New Yorker/Imperial (C), Acclaim/Spirit/LeBaron sedan
(AA). Each derivative has a different wheelbase and floor pan.
First-generation minivans are also loosely based on the K.
These cars are collectively referred to as EEKs.
30. How do I find the fault codes stored in my engine computer?
See Part 3 of this FAQ.
32. How often should I change my trans fluid?
Check your service manual. The severe service definition means that
the vehicle is operated *primarily* in one of those conditions.
MODERN TRANSMISSIONS WILL BE DESTROYED
IF YOU USE THE WRONG FLUID.
See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html
Even some 3-speed transmissions are NOT compatible
with Dexron - read your manual !!!
Side note -> This was written when Dexron 3 was current.
Dexron 6 may be good in Mopar transmissions. However, to be
sure, use a Chrysler-approved fluid.
34. What kind of gas should I use?
Use the octane level your owner's manual recommends and the brand
you have had good luck with. If your engine knocks adjust the timing.
35. No longer relevant; deleted.
36. What about lemons?
To quote the rec.autos FAQ -- every auto manufacturer has
manufactured a lemon or two. Please don't waste everyone's time by
announcing to the world that your `brand x' automobile is terrible, so
all brand x automobiles are terrible, so no one should ever buy a
car from the brand x company. Such articles are worse than
useless, because they cause wasted bandwidth while carrying little
or no useful information.
37. Are K&N filters worth it?
David Cooley reported on a magazine test of aftermarket air filters.
The paper filters were respectable, but the K&N and Accell filters
flowed almost 3 times as much air when dirty as clean paper filters
of the same size. The K&N passed less particulate matter than the
paper filter; as it got dirtier outside, they sprayed on a new coat
of oil (without cleaning) and found it filtered even better.
K&N filters change your engine sound, rarely need replacement,
and flow better when dirty. Other than that, you may not notice much
difference unless you have a high-efficiency exhaust and performance
engine. There has been debate over the actual filtering ability of
these filters; the power boost on TBI cars is negligible.
So. . .probably not.
38. Is there anything special I should do if I have ABS? [Legacy question]
Some sources recommend more frequent fluid changes, e.g. every 2-3 years.
Use only the brake fluid the car maker recommends! Fully
depressurize the system before adding or changing brake fluids.
The primary source of failure is dirt in the sensors, which can
easily be cleaned.
39. What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Is Dexron OK?
Use ONLY what it says in your owner's manual to use. Many Chrysler
transmissions are NOT compatible with standard fluid! ATF+3
is usually the best one to use with automatic transmissions before
2001, ATF+4 after.
THIS IS AN IMPORTANT and very misunderstood issue.
You should really visit http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html if you have
a four-speed or five-speed Chrysler automatic. Even most three-speed
automatics are required to use ATF+4.
CHECK YOUR MANUAL because recent changes mean that the specifications
for fluid may change, especially with the new dual clutch automatics,
eight-speeds, and nine-speeds.
Note: Dexron 6 may be OK but make sure it is approved by Chrysler if
you expect them to honor your warranty.
40. Are Chrysler transmissions still junk? [Legacy question]
Not if you use the right transmission fluid. By the way,
the 545 is actually based on the old, reliable 727.
See #39 and Part 2 of the FAQ.
42. Aren't Chryslers junk? / Did Mercedes improve Chrysler quality? [Legacy
question]
Chrysler was working on quality before the takeover, yielding the
PT Cruiser - which is beating the Honda Civic on quality
surveys - and the Jeep Liberty, which is also doing very well. Chrysler
has been making great strides in quality. Mercedes, if anything,
damaged those efforts by emphasizing an "expert" approach rather than a
Toyota-style inclusive/participatory approach to quality.
Look at Mercedes' quality reports, then at Chrysler's. Generally,
Chrysler quality TROUNCES Mercedes. So how did Mercedes help?
Update: since the Fiat takeover, Chrysler has been putting extensive
resources into quality improvement. Along with most people we advise
getting a car when it's well into its production cycle (e.g. six
months
after production starts) to take advantage of fast-feedback on early
cars (regardless of automaker). However, as time goes on, Chrysler
quality
seems to be getting better and better.
43. Engine sludge - what's the deal? [Legacy question]
Early 2.7 liter engines in some models had a more than normal
occurence of oil degredation resulting in a thick substance
called "sludge" which can cause major engine damage. This problem
also afflected some Toyotas, Hondas, and other makes. If you have a
2.7 made before 2004, you may want to use synthetic oil (which can
also lengthen your oil change intervals). This is rare but nasty.
The problem appears to have been resolved as of 2005.
Owners of cars with turbochargers should be careful about "coking"
of oil in the turbo unit. Two ways of dealing with that are letting
the car idle for a while before shutting the engine, if you have been
pushing the engine, and using synthetic oil, which is far more
resistant
to "coking" and cuts wear to turbocharger bearings regardless.
86. All other questions.
Check the computer codes or replace the ballast resistor (if you have one!).
******************* UP AND COMING ******************
This section has been replaced by http://www.allpar.com/news/
and http://www.allpar.com/model/upcoming.html
*********************** NEWSGROUP CHARTER ***********
(This section never changes. The newsgroup was created around 1994.)
- The Newsgroup Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler -- CHARTER
COVERAGE. Rec.autos.makers.chrysler was set up to cover issues related
to cars and trucks made by Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Fargo, DeSoto,
Jeep, Eagle, and all other makes sold or marketed by Chrysler Corp.
BEHAVIOR. Political comments and commercial advertising will be
discouraged. However, *short* product announcements, preferably
restricted to the name, availability, and a very brief description of
the product's function (where applicable) are acceptable.
Discussion of whether Chrysler products are of good or bad quality,
lengthy comparisons to Hondas or other cars, and similar arguments and
flamewars with no foreseeable conclusion are heavily discouraged.
Participants are asked to be kind, considerate, and supportive, and to
generally keep an open, warm atmosphere so that the function of this
newsgroup may be maintained.
RATIONALE. This group is proposed to help Chrysler (CC) vehicle owners
to support each other, save money, and maximize enjoyment of their autos.
As in rec.autos.vw, Chrysler owners need a forum where they feel
unreservedly welcomed, and where they can obtain esoteric information
from involved people with similar experiences and vehicles.
This newsgroup should be general enough for those who know little about
cars to get a broad range of information and advise from, while allowing
those more into the products to exchange their views and advice.
In a world dominated by GM, Ford, and VW (Europe) products, Chrysler
owners often find discussions difficult. Most aftermarket parts and
advice are for GM and Ford owners; knowledge about Chrysler is hard to
find. The press don't cover CC as well as they could -- and CC's
dissemination of information to the press and the public is poor.
Chrysler products have quirks which most mechanics don't seem to be
aware of, leading them to replace transmissions when the fault is in a
20 cent vacuum hose, or to replace the engine computer instead of
plugging in a hose or changing a sensor. Chryslers are often seen as
ordinary American cars (unlike makes which many mechanics will admit
they are not familiar with) -- but what will work on a GM or Ford will
often not work on a Dodge. There is a vast ocean of experience in
Chrysler products out on the Internet which may help owners to save
time, money, and trouble.
CC vehicles are common enough, yet idiosyncratic enough, to deserve
their own place in the Net hierarchy -- just as Volkswagens are. In
addition, it is important for CC vehicle owners to have a place to
discuss the problems and benefits of ownership, to exchange detailed
information and personal experiences, in a supportive and positive
atmosphere. In short, I hope to develop a group as vibrant and helpful
as the Mopar mailing list or the rec.autos.VW group have been, while
making this group accessible to all Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Eagle, and
Chrysler owners, even those who don't know what a Mopar is.
FAQ maintained by David Zatz
(end of FAQ part 1)
Posting-Frequency: 60 days
Last-modified: 2013/05/22
Version: 6.4a
This section is generally revised every 400 days.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to f...@allpar.com.
Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.
Instead, go to allpar.com and provide feedback from there.
Thank you.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
* Important Note * Chrysler generally refers to the full Chrysler
Corporation (Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth, DeSoto, Eagle, Simca, Rootes
Group, Sunbeam, Singer, Hillman, Humber, AMC, etc).
DISCLAIMER:
The author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors or
omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information
or opinions contained herein.
Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.
The maintainer does not claim to be an authority.
Information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
given to the writers and maintainer; and it is not published in
book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the
maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE
copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
(David Zatz - contact me via allpar.com).
- - - - - - - - - - - -
The latest copy may be obtained from
http://www.allpar.com/faq.html which links to rtfm.mit.edu
- - - - - - - - - - - -
CONTENTS
Part 1 -
Related Resources (groups, Web sites, recall/TSB info)
Before You Post, Read This!
Frequently Asked Chrysler/Mopar Questions
Up and Coming
The Newsgroup: charter, notes, rationale
Part 2
What should I do...
1. ... before I post?
2. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
3. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)
Oil Filter Discussion
List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s
List of All Body Styles Since 1966
Part 3 (to be discontinued or changed)
Engine Codes
Classic Car Troubleshooting
Reading codes without a scan tool
(computer controlled, carbureted engines)
Crankcase inlet air filter, 2.2/2.5 engines.
Part 4: Discontinued
Part 5: Discontinued
Part 6: Discontinued
************************************************************************
BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS
1. Check the FAQ.
2. Paranoia, overposting, and thoughtless posts are common.
Show off your intelligence and maturity.
3. Do not confuse Chrysler with your dealership,
the zone office, or the guy who picks up the phone.
4. If you are having problems with Chrysler or your dealer, read
the relevant parts of the FAQ (1, 2) and the Web site.
5. The natural inclination of people who have been mistreated is
to respond to many posts. However, all companies sometimes make
lemons or fail to treat customers well. Try to restrain anger.
************************************************************************
- Related Resources:
http://www.allpar.com/ - massive owner/enthusiast site
* Models, history, repair, performance info
Phone Numbers
1-800-992-1997 Chrysler Customer Service - USA
1-800-465-2001 Chrysler Canada
1-800-255-9877 adapting new vehicles for people w/disabilities.
1-800-626-1523 Mopar catalog of manuals, videos, books (free)
1-800-677-5782 local 5-Star Dealer locator
Mopar Performance Tech Line: 1-888-528-HEMI.
Hours are Monday through Friday, 9 AM to 5 PM ET.
Other Resources
Plymouth Owners Club (Plymouth & Fargo)
203 Main St., Cavalier, North Dakota 58220
Award winning magazine http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/
WPC Restorers' Club (Walter P Chrysler Club)
Also a good magazine!
http://www.chryslerclub.org/
NCPC -- National Chrysler Products Club
http://www.nationalchryslerproductsclub.com/
Chrysler Canada Customer Service:
Chrysler Center, P.O. Box 1621
Windsor, Ontario N9A 4H6
Chrysler Europe NV
Woluwedal 106-108, 1200 Brussels, Belgium - Europe
Chrysler Employees Motorsports Assoc: http://www.cemaclub.org/
Valiant-Dart-Duster-etc series, http://www.valiant.org/
Newsgroups
rec.autos.makers.chrysler
rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys
Chrysler was the first make in the rec.autos.makers.* hierarchy,
and beat both GM and Ford to having a Big Seven newsgroup!
The first request for discussion was filed by David Zatz on
July 28, 1994.
************************************************************************
Thanks to Gene Fusco for the Mopar Mailing List's FAQ; thanks also to
Lloyd R. Parker, Wayne Toy, Bohdan Bodnar, and Dan Stern.
*************************CONTENTS*****************************
This is divided into corporate and car sections.
I. CHRYSLER CORPORATE AND ALLIANCES
1. What does DCX mean? DaimlerChrysler
DCX was DaimlerChrysler's stock symbol. The Daimler part was
renamed Daimler in 2007 after Chrysler Group was sold to
Cerberus. From Cerberus, Chrysler Group LLC
went into bankruptcy; its "good" assets were purchased by
a new company majority-owned by a pension fund and controlled
by Fiat SpA. It is now majority-owned by Fiat and Fiat is
expected to either merge with Chrysler or buy it outright.
At that point many expect Fiat to move the corporate headquarters
to a third country such as the UK which does not tax profits
earned in other jurisdictions, cutting Fiat's tax rate to
around 1% (if that).
2. What's the deal with the government bailout?
Chrysler went into Chapter 11 bankruptcy and in a "fast track" deal,
the U.S. and Canadian governments, and (via trading pension obligations)
the union VEBA, financed the creation of a new company which acquired
most of Chrysler's core assets.
Fiat was to get 35% of Chrysler. The
majority was owned by the VEBA in exchange for billions of dollars of
unfunded pension and benefits obligations; the VEBA has no voting rights.
The U.S. and Canadian governments eventually sold their own shares to
Fiat.
Fiat has provided its small car, tiny engine, and diesel technologies,
and its
dimensions for compact and midsized cars, which are used by Chrysler
as the basis for a wide range of vehicles. Fiat's platform (dimensions)
was developed at great expense and Chrysler needed one, since
Daimler forced
them to use Mitsubishi's, which was not seen as ideal.
Other key Fiat technologies are small engines, diesel engines,
small dual clutch automatics, and MultiAir, an air-activated variable
valve lift and timing system that works on individual cylinders, one at
a time. It is more expensive than Chrysler's variable cam technology but
a little more effective. So far it has not been adapted to any
Chrysler engine.
The end result is a Chrysler which contributes
large vehicle products and technologies to Fiat in return for Fiat's
small car (and large van) products and technologies. This saved the
government billions of dollars in unemployment, prevented disastrous
supplier bankruptcies that would have knocked out Ford and GM, avoided
the loss of a large part of America's manufacturing base, and overall was
a win-win given the alternative.
Fiat has been open about its use of Chrysler technologies in the
Fiat Freemont
and Lancia cars, and less open about adapting the Pentastar V6
block for
Maserati and the Chrysler LX platform, also for Maserati. Fiat
has been
open about basing the Maserati Levante on the Jeep Grand
Cherokee, and
Dodge and Alfa Romeo are working together on a rear wheel drive
midsized car.
Rebadged Chryslers sold by Fiat are the Fiat Freemont (Dodge Journey),
Lancia Thema (Chrysler 300), Lancia Voyager (Town & Country), and
Lancia Flavia (200). Chrysler sells an upgraded version of the Fiat
Ducato van as the Ram ProMaster, with its own gasoline engine and
transmission.
3. What is Chrysler's US customer service number? 800-992-1997
4. What is Chrysler's e-mail address?
Contact Chrysler via a Web form - see "contact us" on their
brand web sites (e.g. dodge.com, chrysler.com, jeep.com).
5. What about the merger / takeover back in 1998 that ended the old
Chrysler Corporation?
Chrysler execs got about $60 million in personal profit.
Daimler bought Chrysler, doubling their profits, then
reportedly siphoned off Chrysler profits via accounting
tricks to make Mercedes look more profitable.
Daimler spent Chrysler's $8-10 billion war chest.
Only one Chrysler rep was left on the board from the original four.
Plants were sold. Decontenting to fix Mercedes' losses became noticeable.
For the final outcome, see question 1.
6. What about building cars in China?
See http://www.allpar.com/cars/concepts/dodge/china-car.html
for the original Cerberus plan, which is dead now. Chrysler and
Fiat will build cars in China and India - for sale within China and India.
Jeep was one of the first automakers to have a Chinese plant,
but it was taken by Mercedes during the DCX years.
The China-car plan was replaced by the use
of small Fiats, some of which are built in Mexico. Others are to be
built in the US and Europe.
7. What's the deal with Chrysler and Mitsubishi?
At one time Chrysler owned a large share of Mitsubishi and was planning to
buy the full company, the idea buying to take advantage of Mitsubishi's
small car prowess and manufacturing technologies. Some cars were jointly
developed, including Avenger/Sebring and Caliber. Chrylser lead
both, though they used newer Mitsubishi basic platforms.
Partnerships with Mitsubishi have ended completely.
9. How reliable are Consumer Reports' ratings?
See the discussion at http://www.allpar.com/cr.html
10. How can I get help for problems Chrysler won't fix?
See the discussion at http://www.allpar.com/trouble.html.
Keep trying the Chrysler Customer Center. Know the TSBs.
Visit http://www.nhtsa.gov ... keep trying and keep your cool.
11. What's the deal with Chrysler Europe, Simca, and Talbot?
Chrysler owned Simca and Rootes until the late 70s, but
sales kept going up and down (usually down). Peugeot bought them
and sold the Omni as the Talbot. They had Simca/Sunbeam engines
(Lloyd Parker). The Centura sold in Australia was a Simca (Dan Stern).
See http://www.allpar.com/world/ for many details.
These cars and the former Rootes Group brands, such as Singer,
Sunbeam, Hillman, and Humber, are covered by
http://www.rootes-chrysler.co.uk/
********
14. Should I use high octane gas?
Only if your car was designed for it (see your owner's manual) or if
you've advanced the timing or your engine is knocking. According to
Chrysler and others, many high-octane gasolines have a low
driveability index, which can cause long cold start times,
warm-up sags, hesitations, and driveway die outs. Under the law,
ALL gasolines sold in the US must meet certain standards for
detergent; if you really need to "drive your engine clean" get a
bottle of Techron or Mopar engine cleaner.
Chrysler turbo engines have all been designed to use premium, as do
SRT engines use premium. Most others run on regular. Some 3.5s run
on midgrade.
20. Is X good for my engine? (includes Slick50)
The Toyota FAQ (Todd Haverstock) sez: "Independent labs as well
as engine manufacturer Briggs and Stratton have rendered a
verdict that Slick 50 and similar oil treatments are useless."
The Gasoline FAQ says most gasoline additives are useless.
Others have weighed in on that score, and DuPont sued to prevent
Slick 50 from using Teflon (unsuccessfully).
22. Did the first-gen Mini really use a modified Neon engine?
Yes, it's a smaller version of the Neon engine designed for European
Neons and a small Chrysler that never materialized (due to Daimler-Benz).
The factory was a joint venture with Rover.
23. What does SOHC, SMPI, etc mean? What do I have?
Note: No current Chrysler has a distributor or throttle body injection.
* DIS means distributorless ignition system. No rotor!
* SOHC and DOHC refer to the number of camshafts; one or two.
* EFI means electronic fuel injection, such as the following:
* TBI - throttle body injection; one or two injectors
spray fuel into the air as it heads to the cylinders.
* MPI uses one fuel injector for each cylinder. It sprays fuel in
the intake manifold, firing at the intake valves. Smoother than
TBI, with more power *and* better mileage.
* SMPI is sequential multiple-point injection; the injector only
fires when the fuel can go straight through the valve and into
the cylinder instead of splashing onto a closed valve.
* Direct injection sprays fuel directly into each cylinder.
This is mainly used in diesel engines (thanks, Michael Turley!)
-- Note: all current Chrysler products use DIS and returnless
SMPI. Mitsubishi is pioneering direct injection for gas engines.
The current system is coil on plug ignition which provides a separate coil
for each spark plug, located right on top of the plug, for the best control
and spark power.
25. What kind of oil should I use?
For the old 2.2 and 2.5 (1980s-1990s), 5W30 is best for winter
or year-round in mild climates - but check your owner's manual
to be sure. (Use the manual instead of asking your dealer.)
Synthetics seem to have a major advantage in cold weather especially
if you do a lot of cold starts, and are generally advisable for turbos.
Oil grade is very important for the Hemi due to its MDS.
CHECK YOUR MANUAL.
For my 1990s cars, recommended oil changes were at 6 months / 7,500
miles. GM says many owners do not need to change oil until 10,000 miles,
once a year, due to the far far higher quality of modern oils.
If you are really concerned,use synthetic and change at 6,000. Very
few people need 3,000 mile changes. Chrysler is switching over to
"car controlled" oil changes (the car advises the owner when an oil
changes is needed in the next 500 miles based on various internal
guidelines -- not a sampling of the actual oil).
See http://www.allpar.com/news/index.php/2012/07/17855
26. What kind of engine do I have ???
Raise the hood and check the emissions sticker. You can decode your
vehicle ID number (VIN) using most car manuals. The emissions sticker
will tell you the displacement of the engine.
See -> http://www.allpar.com/mopar/vin-decoder.html
27. What is a Mopar? Do I have one?
Mopar is slang for a Chrysler-produced car. Some extend it to AMCs
and to MMC products (e.g. Colt) sold by Chrysler; some restrict it to
high performance only. It is the name of Chrysler's parts division.
Mopar stands for MOtor PARts. MoPar is a registered trademark.
28. Which were the Diamond Star models?
Diamond Star models are those built by the Diamond Star (DSM)
plant in Illinois. This was a joint venture but is now 100%
MMC. The Stealth, Colt, Sapparo, Ram 50, and FWD Challenger
were re-badged Mitsubishis made in Japan. There are no current cars sold
by Chrysler from the Diamond Star plant for from Mitsubishi.
29. What are the K-cars?
Herb DaSilva:
... Chrysler used the components on the Aries/Reliant (K) in many of
its other platforms. These platforms... share similar distance
between the wheels on the same axle, and have the same suspension
design. Most K variants can swap struts (H is an exception).
K derivates include: Laser (pre-88)/Daytona (G), Shadow/Sundance
(P), LeBaron/New Yorker (J), LeBaron sedan (pre-90)/Lancer
(H), Dynasty/New Yorker/Imperial (C), Acclaim/Spirit/LeBaron sedan
(AA). Each derivative has a different wheelbase and floor pan.
First-generation minivans are also loosely based on the K.
These cars are collectively referred to as EEKs.
30. How do I find the fault codes stored in my engine computer?
See Part 3 of this FAQ.
32. How often should I change my trans fluid?
Check your service manual. The severe service definition means that
the vehicle is operated *primarily* in one of those conditions.
MODERN TRANSMISSIONS WILL BE DESTROYED
IF YOU USE THE WRONG FLUID.
See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html
Even some 3-speed transmissions are NOT compatible
with Dexron - read your manual !!!
Side note -> This was written when Dexron 3 was current.
Dexron 6 may be good in Mopar transmissions. However, to be
sure, use a Chrysler-approved fluid.
34. What kind of gas should I use?
Use the octane level your owner's manual recommends and the brand
you have had good luck with. If your engine knocks adjust the timing.
35. No longer relevant; deleted.
36. What about lemons?
To quote the rec.autos FAQ -- every auto manufacturer has
manufactured a lemon or two. Please don't waste everyone's time by
announcing to the world that your `brand x' automobile is terrible, so
all brand x automobiles are terrible, so no one should ever buy a
car from the brand x company. Such articles are worse than
useless, because they cause wasted bandwidth while carrying little
or no useful information.
37. Are K&N filters worth it?
David Cooley reported on a magazine test of aftermarket air filters.
The paper filters were respectable, but the K&N and Accell filters
flowed almost 3 times as much air when dirty as clean paper filters
of the same size. The K&N passed less particulate matter than the
paper filter; as it got dirtier outside, they sprayed on a new coat
of oil (without cleaning) and found it filtered even better.
K&N filters change your engine sound, rarely need replacement,
and flow better when dirty. Other than that, you may not notice much
difference unless you have a high-efficiency exhaust and performance
engine. There has been debate over the actual filtering ability of
these filters; the power boost on TBI cars is negligible.
So. . .probably not.
38. Is there anything special I should do if I have ABS? [Legacy question]
Some sources recommend more frequent fluid changes, e.g. every 2-3 years.
Use only the brake fluid the car maker recommends! Fully
depressurize the system before adding or changing brake fluids.
The primary source of failure is dirt in the sensors, which can
easily be cleaned.
39. What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Is Dexron OK?
Use ONLY what it says in your owner's manual to use. Many Chrysler
transmissions are NOT compatible with standard fluid! ATF+3
is usually the best one to use with automatic transmissions before
2001, ATF+4 after.
THIS IS AN IMPORTANT and very misunderstood issue.
You should really visit http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html if you have
a four-speed or five-speed Chrysler automatic. Even most three-speed
automatics are required to use ATF+4.
CHECK YOUR MANUAL because recent changes mean that the specifications
for fluid may change, especially with the new dual clutch automatics,
eight-speeds, and nine-speeds.
Note: Dexron 6 may be OK but make sure it is approved by Chrysler if
you expect them to honor your warranty.
40. Are Chrysler transmissions still junk? [Legacy question]
Not if you use the right transmission fluid. By the way,
the 545 is actually based on the old, reliable 727.
See #39 and Part 2 of the FAQ.
42. Aren't Chryslers junk? / Did Mercedes improve Chrysler quality? [Legacy
question]
Chrysler was working on quality before the takeover, yielding the
PT Cruiser - which is beating the Honda Civic on quality
surveys - and the Jeep Liberty, which is also doing very well. Chrysler
has been making great strides in quality. Mercedes, if anything,
damaged those efforts by emphasizing an "expert" approach rather than a
Toyota-style inclusive/participatory approach to quality.
Look at Mercedes' quality reports, then at Chrysler's. Generally,
Chrysler quality TROUNCES Mercedes. So how did Mercedes help?
Update: since the Fiat takeover, Chrysler has been putting extensive
resources into quality improvement. Along with most people we advise
getting a car when it's well into its production cycle (e.g. six
months
after production starts) to take advantage of fast-feedback on early
cars (regardless of automaker). However, as time goes on, Chrysler
quality
seems to be getting better and better.
43. Engine sludge - what's the deal? [Legacy question]
Early 2.7 liter engines in some models had a more than normal
occurence of oil degredation resulting in a thick substance
called "sludge" which can cause major engine damage. This problem
also afflected some Toyotas, Hondas, and other makes. If you have a
2.7 made before 2004, you may want to use synthetic oil (which can
also lengthen your oil change intervals). This is rare but nasty.
The problem appears to have been resolved as of 2005.
Owners of cars with turbochargers should be careful about "coking"
of oil in the turbo unit. Two ways of dealing with that are letting
the car idle for a while before shutting the engine, if you have been
pushing the engine, and using synthetic oil, which is far more
resistant
to "coking" and cuts wear to turbocharger bearings regardless.
86. All other questions.
Check the computer codes or replace the ballast resistor (if you have one!).
******************* UP AND COMING ******************
This section has been replaced by http://www.allpar.com/news/
and http://www.allpar.com/model/upcoming.html
*********************** NEWSGROUP CHARTER ***********
(This section never changes. The newsgroup was created around 1994.)
- The Newsgroup Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler -- CHARTER
COVERAGE. Rec.autos.makers.chrysler was set up to cover issues related
to cars and trucks made by Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Fargo, DeSoto,
Jeep, Eagle, and all other makes sold or marketed by Chrysler Corp.
BEHAVIOR. Political comments and commercial advertising will be
discouraged. However, *short* product announcements, preferably
restricted to the name, availability, and a very brief description of
the product's function (where applicable) are acceptable.
Discussion of whether Chrysler products are of good or bad quality,
lengthy comparisons to Hondas or other cars, and similar arguments and
flamewars with no foreseeable conclusion are heavily discouraged.
Participants are asked to be kind, considerate, and supportive, and to
generally keep an open, warm atmosphere so that the function of this
newsgroup may be maintained.
RATIONALE. This group is proposed to help Chrysler (CC) vehicle owners
to support each other, save money, and maximize enjoyment of their autos.
As in rec.autos.vw, Chrysler owners need a forum where they feel
unreservedly welcomed, and where they can obtain esoteric information
from involved people with similar experiences and vehicles.
This newsgroup should be general enough for those who know little about
cars to get a broad range of information and advise from, while allowing
those more into the products to exchange their views and advice.
In a world dominated by GM, Ford, and VW (Europe) products, Chrysler
owners often find discussions difficult. Most aftermarket parts and
advice are for GM and Ford owners; knowledge about Chrysler is hard to
find. The press don't cover CC as well as they could -- and CC's
dissemination of information to the press and the public is poor.
Chrysler products have quirks which most mechanics don't seem to be
aware of, leading them to replace transmissions when the fault is in a
20 cent vacuum hose, or to replace the engine computer instead of
plugging in a hose or changing a sensor. Chryslers are often seen as
ordinary American cars (unlike makes which many mechanics will admit
they are not familiar with) -- but what will work on a GM or Ford will
often not work on a Dodge. There is a vast ocean of experience in
Chrysler products out on the Internet which may help owners to save
time, money, and trouble.
CC vehicles are common enough, yet idiosyncratic enough, to deserve
their own place in the Net hierarchy -- just as Volkswagens are. In
addition, it is important for CC vehicle owners to have a place to
discuss the problems and benefits of ownership, to exchange detailed
information and personal experiences, in a supportive and positive
atmosphere. In short, I hope to develop a group as vibrant and helpful
as the Mopar mailing list or the rec.autos.VW group have been, while
making this group accessible to all Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Eagle, and
Chrysler owners, even those who don't know what a Mopar is.
FAQ maintained by David Zatz
(end of FAQ part 1)
Dr. David Zatz
May 23, 2013, 3:23:23 AM5/23/13
to
Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part2
Posting-Frequency: 100 days
Last-modified: 2013/05/22
Version: 5
This section is generally revised every 440 days.
**Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.**
Instead, use the form at http://www.allpar.com/i/form.html
While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the
information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and
information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
given to the writers and maintainer; and that it is not published in
newsgroups or from the rtfm.mit.edu archives, it is probably
NOT current. The latest copy may be obtained from
http://www.allpar.com/faq.html
*************************CONTENTS*****************************
3. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
4. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)
Oil Filter Discussion
List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s
2. New transmission designations decoded (new!)
List of All Body Styles Since 1966
2. Please don't post messages like "this broke and I will speak to the
dealer about it sometime." Go to the dealer first; if they cannot fix
it, and it is not in the FAQ, THEN go to the newsgroup.
3. If you are having problems with Chrysler, and have not yet read the
relevant FAQ section, please do so. At least call them (800-992-1997).
4. If you are having problems with Chrysler and are angry and bitter
at them, an angry message or two is fine. But you won't help
anyone by going overboard.
Note: this is not just valid for newsgroups but for automotive forums,
such as http://www.allpar.com/forums/
***********************************************************************
HOW TO DEAL WITH CHRYSLER CORP.
***********************************************************************
(Note: Thanks to Dan Adams for his help with parts of this -
Chrysler Corp should be grateful to have him!)
* The order in which you should deal with a problem is something like
this:
1. Speak politely but assertively with the service writer.
2. Ask to go for a ride with the mechanic and discuss relevant issues
wuth them.
3. Service manager.
4. 800 992 1997.
5. Write to Pietro Gorlier at Chrysler in Auburn Hills, MI
6. Zone (voluntary buyback negotiations IF APPLICABLE)
7. Arbitration / Consumer Affairs / Attorney General if applicable
AND needed.
* Be *polite* and *calm* but assertive at all times. Do not take "no"
for an answer but do *not* act angry or make threats. Chrysler often helps,
even out of warranty, but they need to be gently pushed; and some Chrysler
employees have the strange impression that dealers are wonderful and
honest while most customers are liars. The Customer Center reps are often
not experts, so elaboration may help. If all else fails, call back and
speak to someone else. Always take down their name for your reference!
* Know what you're talking about. Check the FAQ, TSBs, your computer codes,
and recalls before you visit the dealer with a problem.
* Don't expect Chrysler to change something because it's listed in a TSB
(technical service bulletin). TSBs describe solutions to problems which
may not apply to your car; they are *not* recalls, though Chrysler often
fixes cars out of warranty if there is a known problem and TSB on it.
* Even if you are in an adversarial relationship, act in a friendly,
nonthreatening, non-adversarial manner. It works better and makes both
parties less angry.
* Daniel Adams writes: Chrysler corporate headquarters does tend to back
the field reps but a good service writer can get to them and help you
more than you would believe. Don't take your frustration out on the service
writers, they carry quite a bit of pull behind the scenes. [And sometimes
it helps to know who the good service writers are.]
* Don't take "no" for an answer. Call Chrysler at 800-992-1997 from a
pay phone if you have to. They will call the dealer. Often, the dealer
will discover they don't need to charge you or keep your car after all!
* If your dealer keeps fixing the same thing over and over again, get
another dealer. Or try the newsgroup. Or write to the CEO of Chrysler. The
letter will get to someone in dealer relations or customer service.
* If your dealer treats you badly, lies to you, refuses to do the work,
etc., get another dealer.
* Consider service BEFORE buying the car when you choose a dealer. Also
consider asking the salesman who the best service writer is, and only using
that service writer. If you always use the same service writer, he will get
to know you and you may slowly start to find that you are getting the best
mechanics. Also, he will recognize you if you come back often.
* It does help to have oil changes and other maintenance done by the
dealer, because you will establish a closer relationship with the service
writers, and also, soemtimes, because they are more likely to actually use
the right parts and fluids.
* If you have a continuing problem, speak to the people at the Customer
Center. You may need to deal with a zone rep, but we recommend that you
write to the Auburn Hills headquarters first. Some reps are
good. Others are useless. There have been many reports that the reps in
some areas are overly sensitive and defensive. (See message about service
writers above -- they can often get
action where ordinary mortals cannot).
* Note: if your dealer or a subcontractor for your dealer should crash your
car (as Continental Auto Body of Wyckoff, New Jersey via Chrysler of
Paramus did to my
car), immediately ask a lawyer what your options are. Examine the damage
personally before they have a chance to cover it up. Do not "take their
word for it." In this case restitution may be more than a quick
bang-and-repaint. Some shops will do the right thing, but if you have the
kind of shop that won't (as I did), it is important that you immediately
deal with the situation and do not provide an opportunity for lingering
disputes.
****** NON-CHRYSLER SOLUTIONS ****** (after internal solutions fail)
courtesy of http://www.acarplace.com/
* Contact your local consumer affairs department. Note: Will not work in
states with a predominantly anti-government attitude.
1. File an official lemon law complaint with your state. This
will get their attention and help negotiation. You can
usually get a better deal through negotiation than in court.
Hiring a lemon law specialist may help - good ones will offer
to negotiate *first.* Chrysler has a reputation for being easy!
2. Go through the Customer Arbitration Board. Results with this
group have been mixed.
* Most lawyers don't know the first thing about lemon law! A good one
will know the people at the zone office and will try to
talk nice to them to solve the problem. If negotiation is not their
first move, they are not the right lawyer.
* Your chances of getting cash are slim. You will usually get a credit
(buy-back). You will not usually get all of your money back. Chrysler
follows state laws; most impose a penalty on each mile of use
before the first lemon-type complaint.
* Go through the latest TSBs again. Something new might have come up.
*Whenever your dealer lies to you or is too incompetent, send a letter
to Dealer Agreements or the Customer Center (current addresses are on-line
and are in your owner's manual if your car is new enough to be under
warranty).
************************************************************************
WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I HAVE THE FOLLOWING CAR/ENGINE?
ENGINES
2.2/2.5 turbo:
-- check for fuel leaks and loose fuel line connections
Carbureted V-8/slant six engines
-- clean the crankcase inlet air filter regularly.
-- keep a spare ballast resistor in your glove compartment
-- make sure the stove and damper (vacuum-powered valve) are working
-- check/replace vacuum tubes regularly
-- make sure float level is adjusted
-- on older engines, valves must be manually adjusted from time to time
Any engine without DIS (if you have a rotor, this applies to you) ---
-- Problems may be caused by low quality rotor or different
brand rotor and distributor cap. (Standard-Bluestreak was recommended
by Dan Stern. There have been malformed Mopar 2.2/2.5 caps).
-- We've seen an aftermarket cap replacement that allows for use of
conventional, longer-life wires.
2.7 V6, pre-2006: use synthetic oil to avoid sludge and maintain the PCV system
TRANSMISSIONS
4-speed automatic
-- all: Change fluid regularly with *recommended* fluid.
See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html
-- KNOW the right fluid (owner's manual ONLY). Do NOT trust mechanics.
-- DO NOT use non-recommended fluid or ANY additives.
-- Check for TSBs and have the computer updated if
needed. If a dealer doesn't feel/hear it, find another. Persist
until they follow the TSB. The new computer save wear and tear
on the transmission for various reasons. (1996+ transmissions
have software-upgradable computers)
-- MOST problems are due to MAINTENANCE ISSUES. Do the maintenance
with EXACTLY the fluids and parts recommended!
-- DO NOT USE DEXRON III! Do not trust any mechanic! ASK!
-- If you have a problem, check the allpar forums and try getting
second opinions. Mechanics, including dealership mechanics, are
quick to demand that you replace or rebuilt these things even when
the problems are minor! Even honest mechanics are jaded by past
breakdowns...
-- If you DO have a problem, make SURE the first thing they check
is the computer error code. Most problems appear to be sensor issues
rather than mechanical breakdowns. That's the difference between
$100 and $2500!
BRAKES
-- You may be able to prevent problems with ABS systems by
changing the brake fluid every 4 years (or more).
-- Often, the ABS light goes on due to dirt in the sensors. Try to
troubleshoot it yourself using the engine-code method.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
******************* CONSUMER REPORTS DISCUSSIONS *******************
Transferred to Web site, http://www.allpar.com/cr.html
***********************************************************
From Lloyd Parker, updated since then:
**** Engines used in Chryslers since 1966:
Lots of info on most of these engines is at
http://www.allpar.com/mopar.html
* denotes an engine still in production for Chrysler vehicles
(some are still used elsewhere, e.g. 2.2 in China, 2.4 in Russia)
4 cylinders
1.4 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ
1.4 (CC/Rover) - BMW Mini
1.5 (Sunbeam) -- Cricket (British)
1.5 (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ, Challenger, Sapporo, Arrow
1.6 (Peugeot) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.6 turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 DOHC (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 (CC/Rover) - Mini and export Neons
1.7 (VW) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.8 (MMC) -- Colt, Vista, Summit, Laser, Talon
1.8 (CC) -- Neons outside the US
1.8 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
2.0 (MMC) -- Arrow, Vista
2.0 DOHC (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 SOHC -- Neon
2.0 DOHC -- Neon, Sebring, Avenger, Talon, Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze
2.0 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
2.2 -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo, Aries, Lancer,
Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, 400, 600, Caravelle, Caravan,
Voyager, LeBaron, Laser, Daytona, New Yorker, E-Class,
Executive, Limousine (note: TBI and carb versions)
2.2 turbo -- LeBaron, New Yorker, Limousine, Laser, Daytona,
Lancer, TC, 600, Shadow, Caravelle, Sundance, Omni,
Charger, E-Class, Shelby (note: MPI)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- Spirit, Daytona (joint venture with Lotus)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- TC (joint venture with Maserati)
2.2 (Renault) -- Medallion
2.4 (MMC) -- Vista, Summit
2.4 DOHC (CC) -- Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze, 1996+ minivans, PT
2.4 Turbo (CC) - PT GT, SRT-4, Mexican Stratus R/T
2.4 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, Compass, Patriot, more (2006+)
2.5 (CC) -- minivans, Aries, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance,
Duster, 600, Lancer, Dynasty, Daytona, Spirit, Acclaim,
LeBaron, Caravelle, Dakota (to 1995) - no carb versions
2.5 turbo (CC) -- minivans, Spirit, Acclaim, Shadow,
Sundance, LeBaron, Daytona (Note: MPI)
2.5 (AMC) -- Wrangler, Cherokee, Premier, Dakota (96+)
2.6 (MMC) -- New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine,
LeBaron, 400, 600, Aries, Reliant, Caravan, Voyager
2.6 turbo (MMC) -- Conquest (MMC)
2.5 is 2.2 with balance shafts, minor changes. 2.0 (CC) is 2.2 with
different heads, fuel system, some tweaks. 3.9 V-6 (below) based on 318.
Neon 2.4 is 2.0 with balance shafts, other minor changes.
Chrysler families: 2.2/2.5, 2.0/2.4
----------------------------------
V-6:
2.5 (MMC) -- Sebring, Avenger, Cirrus, Stratus (based on 3.0)
2.7 LH series (1998-2001), Stratus/Sebring
3.0 (MMC) -- LeBaron, TC, minivans, New Yorker, Spirit,
Dynasty, Daytona, Stealth, Shadow ES, Acclaim, Duster
3.0 (Renault) -- Premier, Monaco
3.0* "Pentastar" V6 (not used in North America)
3.2 LH series (1998+)
3.2* "Pentastar" V6 (see http://www.pentastars.com/ )
3.3 New Yorker, Dynasty, LH series, minivans
3.5 LH series (1998+), Prowler (steel and aluminum versions) -
Chrysler considers the aluminum version to be entirely new
3.6* "Pentastar" / "Phoenix" V6, see http://www.pentastars.com/
3.7 V-6 for trucks (2002+)
3.8 New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Wrangler, minivans, etc - bored 3.3
3.9 trucks (3.9 is based on the 318)
4.0 enlarged, modified version of the 3.8 (minivans, etc)
MMC 2.5 and 3.0 are related
----------------------------------
The SLANT SIX (share basic design)
2.8 (170) -- Dart, Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda (Canada), A100, D100
3.3 (198) -- Barracuda, Challenger, Dart, Valiant, Duster, Scamp
3.7 (225)-- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Mirada, Diplomat, St.
Regis, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite,
Barracuda, Valiant, Duster, Scamp, Volare, Lancer
----------------------------------
STRAIGHT SIXES
(flat head) - various sizes - ended in late 1950s for cars
215 - Australian Valiants
245 - Australian Valiants
265 - Australian Valiants
4.0 (AMC) -- Cherokee, Wagoneer, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee
4.2 (AMC) -- Wrangler
Families: 215/245/265, 4.0/4.2, flat heads
The Australian straight sixes was built on a basic design intended for
use in American trucks. They changed from the slant six to
Australian-built 215, 245, and 265 sixes in 1970. The Aussie models had
hemispherical heads, so the 3-2barrel Weber version could honestly be
called a Hemi Six-Pack.
----------------------------------
V-8s
4.5 (273) -- Dart, Valiant, Barracuda, Coronet, Belvedere, Satellite
4.7* -- 1999 Grand Cherokee, Charger R/T (CNG), next-gen Rams
5.2 (318) -- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, St. Regis, Magnum,
Mirada, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Valiant, Scamp, Duster,
Volare, Cordoba, LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, Gran Fury,
Imperial, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Diplomat, Demon,
pickups and SUVs thru 2001.
5.6 (340) -- Charger, Challenger, Dart, Barracuda, Duster, Road Runner,
Ramcharger
5.7 Hemi* (345) -- Pickups, LX cars, Grand Cherokee, Durango
5.9 (360) -- LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, 300, Cordoba, Diplomat,
Polara, Monaco, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Gran Fury,
Barracuda, Duster, St. Regis, pickups and SUVs thru 2002.
(345) -- Hemi Magnum engine for trucks, next-gen large cars
5.9 (361) -- Coronet, Charger, Belvedere
5.9 (360-AMC) -- Grand Wagoneer
6.1 Hemi - SRT8 models pre 2011
6.2* -- Supercharged Hemi due around 2014-2015
6.3 (383)-- Newport, 300, Town & Country, Polara, Monaco, Coronet,
Charger, Challenger, Dart, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Road
Runner, Barracuda, Magnum
6.4* (392) Hemi - SRT8 models 2011+
6.6 (400) -- Newport, New Yorker, Town & Country, Monaco, Fury, Road
Runner, Gran Fury, Charger, maybe Cordoba, Magnum
7.0 (426, Hemi & Wedge) -- Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda,
Challenger, Charger, Coronet, Daytona, Superbird
7.2 (440) -- Newport, New Yorker, 300, Town & Country, Imperial, Polara,
Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Daytona, Superbird
----------------------------------
8.0* V-10 -- Viper, Ram trucks (two versions, fairly different)
Truck version (cast iron) ended in 2002. Aluminum continues.
----------------------------------
DIESELS
see http://www.allpar.com/mopar/Diesel.html
1.6 I-4: Perkins (European production cars, retrofits)
1.9 I-4: Detroit Diesel/VM engine, used in export cars
2.1 I-4: Renault, used in export Cherokee
2.5 I-4: VM engine, used in export cars, minivans, Jeeps
2.7 I-5: Mercedes engine, export Grand Cherokees
2.8 I-4: VM engine, used in export cars, minivans, Jeeps
3.0* I-4: Fiat engine, used in Ram ProMaster
3.0* V-6: VM (Grand Cherokee, Ram 1500, export cars)
3.0 V6: Mercedes,
3.1: I-5 Detroit Diesel/VM (export Jeeps)
4.0: Mitsubishi 6DR5, used 1978-? in trucks
5.9 I-6: Cummins (trucks, 1989-)
6.7* I-6: Cummins (trucks)
Also: Perkins diesels in trucks and retrofits
----------------------------------
Gary Howell clarifies:
** Small blocks (except new 4.7) **
273/318/340/360 are LA engines they look the same from the outside.
LA stands for "Lightweight-casting A"
[There is now an A/LA page at http://www.allpar.com/mopar/318.html]
273 cu. in. 1964-69 3.31 stroke and 3.63 bore
318 cu. in. 1968-91 3.31 stroke and 3.91 bore
340 cu. in. 1968-73 3.31 stroke and 4.04 bore
360 cu. in. 1971-91 3.58 stroke and 4.00 bore
The A engines (not LA) are older small blocks and look the same on the
outside to each other. The blocks are different in deck height, but
share some internal components with the LA block. The cylinder heads
and intake are different.
277 cu. in. 1956 3.75 bore and 3.12 stroke
301 cu. in. 1957 3.91 bore and 3.12 stroke
318 cu. in. 1957-67 3.91 bore and 3.31 stroke
Many changes were made to create the Magnum engines; the heads and fuel
delivery systems are the largest differences.
** Big Blocks **
There are eight different big blocks. The B blocks are short deck and
the RBs are tall deck. The RBs require a wider intake manifold.
[RB engine page: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/383.html]
B: 350, 361, 383, 400
RB: 383, 413, 426 Wedge (not Hemi), 440
All B engine use 3.38 stroke crank with different bores, and all RB
engines use 3.75 stroke crank with different bores. There were two different
383s; the RB is rare, and was created to solve limited-time production-line
issues. The 350 was only produced in 1958, the first year of the B engines.
***********************************************************
NEW TRANSMISSION DESIGNATIONS
(Courtesy Daniel Adams)
On the 1980s-2010s transmissions (e.g. 41TE):
4 amount of forward gears (from 3 to 6 at this point!)
1 the torque rating for the trans (on a 1-8 scale 1 lowest 8 strongest)
T or R transaxle or rear wheel drive
e or h electronic or hydraulic
There are two five-speed automatics: a Chrysler-designed unit based on the
727, and a Mercedes-designed unit.
62TE six-speed automatic is similar to the four-speed car automatics and
actually has seven forward speeds including a kickdown gear.
Truck automatics are generally 727-based (unlike minivan autos.)
Eight and nine speed automatics were engineered by ZF and will be made by
Chrysler.
This numbering system was changed very recently (around 2012-2013) so that the
845RE is an eight speed with 450 Nm of torque capacity - that's 8 for speeds,
the next two numbers (45) for Nm of torque divided by ten, then R for rear
wheel drive (T again for transaxle), and E for electronic though Chrysler has
no hydraulic control transmissions now, making the "E" pointless. Hence the
928TE is a nine speed front-drive transaxle with 280 lb-ft capacity. Chrysler
appears to still be using manufacturer codes for purchased transmissions, e.g.
the ZF HP90 (90 standing for 900 Nm capacity).
Transmission list with details on many types of transmission:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions.html
To convert from Nm to lb-ft -> http://www.allpar.com/cars/conversions.php
***********************************************************
CAR BODY TYPES
Because the list of car body types was getting rather confusing - there are
far too
many models that jumped from one platform to another - we have taken this
out of the
FAQ and refer you instead to full, informative lists of cars by body type at:
http://www.allpar.com/model/rwdbodies.html (rear drive and trucks/Jeeps)
http://www.allpar.com/model/fwdbodies.html (front drive).
For an example of the difficulty, the early Barracuda was a modified
Valiant, hence an A-body; later it moved to a platform shared only with the
Challenger (E-body). The New Yorker was a K-car, C-body, and several
more...in one year sharing two different bodies (not unlike the Stratus
whose sedan and coupe versions were built on totally different platforms,
made by two different companies, in the same years!). The Fury moved from
C to B body in the late 1970s. There are many others... cars were resized,
transformed, dropped, and brought back with the same names.
Posting-Frequency: 100 days
Last-modified: 2013/05/22
Version: 5
This section is generally revised every 440 days.
**Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.**
Instead, use the form at http://www.allpar.com/i/form.html
Thank you.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
DISCLAIMER:
- - - - - - - - - - - -
While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the
information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and
contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for
damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.
The writers and the maintainer do not claim to be authorities.
information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
given to the writers and maintainer; and that it is not published in
book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the
maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE
copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
(David Zatz of allpar.com).
maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE
copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
- - - - - - - - - - - -
If you did not obtain this FAQ from one of its
newsgroups or from the rtfm.mit.edu archives, it is probably
NOT current. The latest copy may be obtained from
http://www.allpar.com/faq.html
- - - - - - - - - - - -
PART II
*************************CONTENTS*****************************
What should I do...
1. ... before I post?
2. ... (removed)
1. ... before I post?
3. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
4. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)
Oil Filter Discussion
List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s
List of All Body Styles Since 1966
***********************************************************************
BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS
1. Check the FAQ. Most answers are there.
BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS
2. Please don't post messages like "this broke and I will speak to the
dealer about it sometime." Go to the dealer first; if they cannot fix
it, and it is not in the FAQ, THEN go to the newsgroup.
3. If you are having problems with Chrysler, and have not yet read the
relevant FAQ section, please do so. At least call them (800-992-1997).
4. If you are having problems with Chrysler and are angry and bitter
at them, an angry message or two is fine. But you won't help
anyone by going overboard.
Note: this is not just valid for newsgroups but for automotive forums,
such as http://www.allpar.com/forums/
***********************************************************************
HOW TO DEAL WITH CHRYSLER CORP.
***********************************************************************
(Note: Thanks to Dan Adams for his help with parts of this -
Chrysler Corp should be grateful to have him!)
* The order in which you should deal with a problem is something like
this:
1. Speak politely but assertively with the service writer.
2. Ask to go for a ride with the mechanic and discuss relevant issues
wuth them.
3. Service manager.
4. 800 992 1997.
5. Write to Pietro Gorlier at Chrysler in Auburn Hills, MI
6. Zone (voluntary buyback negotiations IF APPLICABLE)
7. Arbitration / Consumer Affairs / Attorney General if applicable
AND needed.
* Be *polite* and *calm* but assertive at all times. Do not take "no"
for an answer but do *not* act angry or make threats. Chrysler often helps,
even out of warranty, but they need to be gently pushed; and some Chrysler
employees have the strange impression that dealers are wonderful and
honest while most customers are liars. The Customer Center reps are often
not experts, so elaboration may help. If all else fails, call back and
speak to someone else. Always take down their name for your reference!
* Know what you're talking about. Check the FAQ, TSBs, your computer codes,
and recalls before you visit the dealer with a problem.
* Don't expect Chrysler to change something because it's listed in a TSB
(technical service bulletin). TSBs describe solutions to problems which
may not apply to your car; they are *not* recalls, though Chrysler often
fixes cars out of warranty if there is a known problem and TSB on it.
* Even if you are in an adversarial relationship, act in a friendly,
nonthreatening, non-adversarial manner. It works better and makes both
parties less angry.
* Daniel Adams writes: Chrysler corporate headquarters does tend to back
the field reps but a good service writer can get to them and help you
more than you would believe. Don't take your frustration out on the service
writers, they carry quite a bit of pull behind the scenes. [And sometimes
it helps to know who the good service writers are.]
* Don't take "no" for an answer. Call Chrysler at 800-992-1997 from a
pay phone if you have to. They will call the dealer. Often, the dealer
will discover they don't need to charge you or keep your car after all!
* If your dealer keeps fixing the same thing over and over again, get
another dealer. Or try the newsgroup. Or write to the CEO of Chrysler. The
letter will get to someone in dealer relations or customer service.
* If your dealer treats you badly, lies to you, refuses to do the work,
etc., get another dealer.
* Consider service BEFORE buying the car when you choose a dealer. Also
consider asking the salesman who the best service writer is, and only using
that service writer. If you always use the same service writer, he will get
to know you and you may slowly start to find that you are getting the best
mechanics. Also, he will recognize you if you come back often.
* It does help to have oil changes and other maintenance done by the
dealer, because you will establish a closer relationship with the service
writers, and also, soemtimes, because they are more likely to actually use
the right parts and fluids.
* If you have a continuing problem, speak to the people at the Customer
Center. You may need to deal with a zone rep, but we recommend that you
write to the Auburn Hills headquarters first. Some reps are
good. Others are useless. There have been many reports that the reps in
some areas are overly sensitive and defensive. (See message about service
writers above -- they can often get
action where ordinary mortals cannot).
* Note: if your dealer or a subcontractor for your dealer should crash your
car (as Continental Auto Body of Wyckoff, New Jersey via Chrysler of
Paramus did to my
car), immediately ask a lawyer what your options are. Examine the damage
personally before they have a chance to cover it up. Do not "take their
word for it." In this case restitution may be more than a quick
bang-and-repaint. Some shops will do the right thing, but if you have the
kind of shop that won't (as I did), it is important that you immediately
deal with the situation and do not provide an opportunity for lingering
disputes.
****** NON-CHRYSLER SOLUTIONS ****** (after internal solutions fail)
courtesy of http://www.acarplace.com/
* Contact your local consumer affairs department. Note: Will not work in
states with a predominantly anti-government attitude.
1. File an official lemon law complaint with your state. This
will get their attention and help negotiation. You can
usually get a better deal through negotiation than in court.
Hiring a lemon law specialist may help - good ones will offer
to negotiate *first.* Chrysler has a reputation for being easy!
2. Go through the Customer Arbitration Board. Results with this
group have been mixed.
* Most lawyers don't know the first thing about lemon law! A good one
will know the people at the zone office and will try to
talk nice to them to solve the problem. If negotiation is not their
first move, they are not the right lawyer.
* Your chances of getting cash are slim. You will usually get a credit
(buy-back). You will not usually get all of your money back. Chrysler
follows state laws; most impose a penalty on each mile of use
before the first lemon-type complaint.
* Go through the latest TSBs again. Something new might have come up.
*Whenever your dealer lies to you or is too incompetent, send a letter
to Dealer Agreements or the Customer Center (current addresses are on-line
and are in your owner's manual if your car is new enough to be under
warranty).
************************************************************************
WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I HAVE THE FOLLOWING CAR/ENGINE?
ENGINES
2.2/2.5 turbo:
-- check for fuel leaks and loose fuel line connections
Carbureted V-8/slant six engines
-- clean the crankcase inlet air filter regularly.
-- keep a spare ballast resistor in your glove compartment
-- make sure the stove and damper (vacuum-powered valve) are working
-- check/replace vacuum tubes regularly
-- make sure float level is adjusted
-- on older engines, valves must be manually adjusted from time to time
Any engine without DIS (if you have a rotor, this applies to you) ---
-- Problems may be caused by low quality rotor or different
brand rotor and distributor cap. (Standard-Bluestreak was recommended
by Dan Stern. There have been malformed Mopar 2.2/2.5 caps).
-- We've seen an aftermarket cap replacement that allows for use of
conventional, longer-life wires.
2.7 V6, pre-2006: use synthetic oil to avoid sludge and maintain the PCV system
TRANSMISSIONS
4-speed automatic
-- all: Change fluid regularly with *recommended* fluid.
See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html
-- KNOW the right fluid (owner's manual ONLY). Do NOT trust mechanics.
-- DO NOT use non-recommended fluid or ANY additives.
-- Check for TSBs and have the computer updated if
needed. If a dealer doesn't feel/hear it, find another. Persist
until they follow the TSB. The new computer save wear and tear
on the transmission for various reasons. (1996+ transmissions
have software-upgradable computers)
-- MOST problems are due to MAINTENANCE ISSUES. Do the maintenance
with EXACTLY the fluids and parts recommended!
-- DO NOT USE DEXRON III! Do not trust any mechanic! ASK!
-- If you have a problem, check the allpar forums and try getting
second opinions. Mechanics, including dealership mechanics, are
quick to demand that you replace or rebuilt these things even when
the problems are minor! Even honest mechanics are jaded by past
breakdowns...
-- If you DO have a problem, make SURE the first thing they check
is the computer error code. Most problems appear to be sensor issues
rather than mechanical breakdowns. That's the difference between
$100 and $2500!
BRAKES
-- You may be able to prevent problems with ABS systems by
changing the brake fluid every 4 years (or more).
-- Often, the ABS light goes on due to dirt in the sensors. Try to
troubleshoot it yourself using the engine-code method.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
******************* CONSUMER REPORTS DISCUSSIONS *******************
Transferred to Web site, http://www.allpar.com/cr.html
***********************************************************
From Lloyd Parker, updated since then:
**** Engines used in Chryslers since 1966:
Lots of info on most of these engines is at
http://www.allpar.com/mopar.html
* denotes an engine still in production for Chrysler vehicles
(some are still used elsewhere, e.g. 2.2 in China, 2.4 in Russia)
4 cylinders
1.4 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ
1.4 (CC/Rover) - BMW Mini
1.5 (Sunbeam) -- Cricket (British)
1.5 (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ, Challenger, Sapporo, Arrow
1.6 (Peugeot) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.6 turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 DOHC (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 (CC/Rover) - Mini and export Neons
1.7 (VW) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.8 (MMC) -- Colt, Vista, Summit, Laser, Talon
1.8 (CC) -- Neons outside the US
1.8 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
2.0 (MMC) -- Arrow, Vista
2.0 DOHC (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 SOHC -- Neon
2.0 DOHC -- Neon, Sebring, Avenger, Talon, Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze
2.0 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
2.2 -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo, Aries, Lancer,
Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, 400, 600, Caravelle, Caravan,
Voyager, LeBaron, Laser, Daytona, New Yorker, E-Class,
Executive, Limousine (note: TBI and carb versions)
2.2 turbo -- LeBaron, New Yorker, Limousine, Laser, Daytona,
Lancer, TC, 600, Shadow, Caravelle, Sundance, Omni,
Charger, E-Class, Shelby (note: MPI)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- Spirit, Daytona (joint venture with Lotus)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- TC (joint venture with Maserati)
2.2 (Renault) -- Medallion
2.4 (MMC) -- Vista, Summit
2.4 DOHC (CC) -- Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze, 1996+ minivans, PT
2.4 Turbo (CC) - PT GT, SRT-4, Mexican Stratus R/T
2.4 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, Compass, Patriot, more (2006+)
2.5 (CC) -- minivans, Aries, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance,
Duster, 600, Lancer, Dynasty, Daytona, Spirit, Acclaim,
LeBaron, Caravelle, Dakota (to 1995) - no carb versions
2.5 turbo (CC) -- minivans, Spirit, Acclaim, Shadow,
Sundance, LeBaron, Daytona (Note: MPI)
2.5 (AMC) -- Wrangler, Cherokee, Premier, Dakota (96+)
2.6 (MMC) -- New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine,
LeBaron, 400, 600, Aries, Reliant, Caravan, Voyager
2.6 turbo (MMC) -- Conquest (MMC)
2.5 is 2.2 with balance shafts, minor changes. 2.0 (CC) is 2.2 with
different heads, fuel system, some tweaks. 3.9 V-6 (below) based on 318.
Neon 2.4 is 2.0 with balance shafts, other minor changes.
Chrysler families: 2.2/2.5, 2.0/2.4
----------------------------------
V-6:
2.5 (MMC) -- Sebring, Avenger, Cirrus, Stratus (based on 3.0)
2.7 LH series (1998-2001), Stratus/Sebring
3.0 (MMC) -- LeBaron, TC, minivans, New Yorker, Spirit,
Dynasty, Daytona, Stealth, Shadow ES, Acclaim, Duster
3.0 (Renault) -- Premier, Monaco
3.0* "Pentastar" V6 (not used in North America)
3.2 LH series (1998+)
3.2* "Pentastar" V6 (see http://www.pentastars.com/ )
3.3 New Yorker, Dynasty, LH series, minivans
3.5 LH series (1998+), Prowler (steel and aluminum versions) -
Chrysler considers the aluminum version to be entirely new
3.6* "Pentastar" / "Phoenix" V6, see http://www.pentastars.com/
3.7 V-6 for trucks (2002+)
3.8 New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Wrangler, minivans, etc - bored 3.3
3.9 trucks (3.9 is based on the 318)
4.0 enlarged, modified version of the 3.8 (minivans, etc)
MMC 2.5 and 3.0 are related
----------------------------------
The SLANT SIX (share basic design)
2.8 (170) -- Dart, Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda (Canada), A100, D100
3.3 (198) -- Barracuda, Challenger, Dart, Valiant, Duster, Scamp
3.7 (225)-- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Mirada, Diplomat, St.
Regis, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite,
Barracuda, Valiant, Duster, Scamp, Volare, Lancer
----------------------------------
STRAIGHT SIXES
(flat head) - various sizes - ended in late 1950s for cars
215 - Australian Valiants
245 - Australian Valiants
265 - Australian Valiants
4.0 (AMC) -- Cherokee, Wagoneer, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee
4.2 (AMC) -- Wrangler
Families: 215/245/265, 4.0/4.2, flat heads
The Australian straight sixes was built on a basic design intended for
use in American trucks. They changed from the slant six to
Australian-built 215, 245, and 265 sixes in 1970. The Aussie models had
hemispherical heads, so the 3-2barrel Weber version could honestly be
called a Hemi Six-Pack.
----------------------------------
V-8s
4.5 (273) -- Dart, Valiant, Barracuda, Coronet, Belvedere, Satellite
4.7* -- 1999 Grand Cherokee, Charger R/T (CNG), next-gen Rams
5.2 (318) -- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, St. Regis, Magnum,
Mirada, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Valiant, Scamp, Duster,
Volare, Cordoba, LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, Gran Fury,
Imperial, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Diplomat, Demon,
pickups and SUVs thru 2001.
5.6 (340) -- Charger, Challenger, Dart, Barracuda, Duster, Road Runner,
Ramcharger
5.7 Hemi* (345) -- Pickups, LX cars, Grand Cherokee, Durango
5.9 (360) -- LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, 300, Cordoba, Diplomat,
Polara, Monaco, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Gran Fury,
Barracuda, Duster, St. Regis, pickups and SUVs thru 2002.
(345) -- Hemi Magnum engine for trucks, next-gen large cars
5.9 (361) -- Coronet, Charger, Belvedere
5.9 (360-AMC) -- Grand Wagoneer
6.1 Hemi - SRT8 models pre 2011
6.2* -- Supercharged Hemi due around 2014-2015
6.3 (383)-- Newport, 300, Town & Country, Polara, Monaco, Coronet,
Charger, Challenger, Dart, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Road
Runner, Barracuda, Magnum
6.4* (392) Hemi - SRT8 models 2011+
6.6 (400) -- Newport, New Yorker, Town & Country, Monaco, Fury, Road
Runner, Gran Fury, Charger, maybe Cordoba, Magnum
7.0 (426, Hemi & Wedge) -- Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda,
Challenger, Charger, Coronet, Daytona, Superbird
7.2 (440) -- Newport, New Yorker, 300, Town & Country, Imperial, Polara,
Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Daytona, Superbird
----------------------------------
8.0* V-10 -- Viper, Ram trucks (two versions, fairly different)
Truck version (cast iron) ended in 2002. Aluminum continues.
----------------------------------
DIESELS
see http://www.allpar.com/mopar/Diesel.html
1.6 I-4: Perkins (European production cars, retrofits)
1.9 I-4: Detroit Diesel/VM engine, used in export cars
2.1 I-4: Renault, used in export Cherokee
2.5 I-4: VM engine, used in export cars, minivans, Jeeps
2.7 I-5: Mercedes engine, export Grand Cherokees
2.8 I-4: VM engine, used in export cars, minivans, Jeeps
3.0* I-4: Fiat engine, used in Ram ProMaster
3.0* V-6: VM (Grand Cherokee, Ram 1500, export cars)
3.0 V6: Mercedes,
3.1: I-5 Detroit Diesel/VM (export Jeeps)
4.0: Mitsubishi 6DR5, used 1978-? in trucks
5.9 I-6: Cummins (trucks, 1989-)
6.7* I-6: Cummins (trucks)
Also: Perkins diesels in trucks and retrofits
----------------------------------
Gary Howell clarifies:
** Small blocks (except new 4.7) **
273/318/340/360 are LA engines they look the same from the outside.
LA stands for "Lightweight-casting A"
[There is now an A/LA page at http://www.allpar.com/mopar/318.html]
273 cu. in. 1964-69 3.31 stroke and 3.63 bore
318 cu. in. 1968-91 3.31 stroke and 3.91 bore
340 cu. in. 1968-73 3.31 stroke and 4.04 bore
360 cu. in. 1971-91 3.58 stroke and 4.00 bore
The A engines (not LA) are older small blocks and look the same on the
outside to each other. The blocks are different in deck height, but
share some internal components with the LA block. The cylinder heads
and intake are different.
277 cu. in. 1956 3.75 bore and 3.12 stroke
301 cu. in. 1957 3.91 bore and 3.12 stroke
318 cu. in. 1957-67 3.91 bore and 3.31 stroke
Many changes were made to create the Magnum engines; the heads and fuel
delivery systems are the largest differences.
** Big Blocks **
There are eight different big blocks. The B blocks are short deck and
the RBs are tall deck. The RBs require a wider intake manifold.
[RB engine page: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/383.html]
B: 350, 361, 383, 400
RB: 383, 413, 426 Wedge (not Hemi), 440
All B engine use 3.38 stroke crank with different bores, and all RB
engines use 3.75 stroke crank with different bores. There were two different
383s; the RB is rare, and was created to solve limited-time production-line
issues. The 350 was only produced in 1958, the first year of the B engines.
***********************************************************
NEW TRANSMISSION DESIGNATIONS
(Courtesy Daniel Adams)
On the 1980s-2010s transmissions (e.g. 41TE):
4 amount of forward gears (from 3 to 6 at this point!)
1 the torque rating for the trans (on a 1-8 scale 1 lowest 8 strongest)
T or R transaxle or rear wheel drive
e or h electronic or hydraulic
There are two five-speed automatics: a Chrysler-designed unit based on the
727, and a Mercedes-designed unit.
62TE six-speed automatic is similar to the four-speed car automatics and
actually has seven forward speeds including a kickdown gear.
Truck automatics are generally 727-based (unlike minivan autos.)
Eight and nine speed automatics were engineered by ZF and will be made by
Chrysler.
This numbering system was changed very recently (around 2012-2013) so that the
845RE is an eight speed with 450 Nm of torque capacity - that's 8 for speeds,
the next two numbers (45) for Nm of torque divided by ten, then R for rear
wheel drive (T again for transaxle), and E for electronic though Chrysler has
no hydraulic control transmissions now, making the "E" pointless. Hence the
928TE is a nine speed front-drive transaxle with 280 lb-ft capacity. Chrysler
appears to still be using manufacturer codes for purchased transmissions, e.g.
the ZF HP90 (90 standing for 900 Nm capacity).
Transmission list with details on many types of transmission:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions.html
To convert from Nm to lb-ft -> http://www.allpar.com/cars/conversions.php
***********************************************************
CAR BODY TYPES
Because the list of car body types was getting rather confusing - there are
far too
many models that jumped from one platform to another - we have taken this
out of the
FAQ and refer you instead to full, informative lists of cars by body type at:
http://www.allpar.com/model/rwdbodies.html (rear drive and trucks/Jeeps)
http://www.allpar.com/model/fwdbodies.html (front drive).
For an example of the difficulty, the early Barracuda was a modified
Valiant, hence an A-body; later it moved to a platform shared only with the
Challenger (E-body). The New Yorker was a K-car, C-body, and several
more...in one year sharing two different bodies (not unlike the Stratus
whose sedan and coupe versions were built on totally different platforms,
made by two different companies, in the same years!). The Fury moved from
C to B body in the late 1970s. There are many others... cars were resized,
transformed, dropped, and brought back with the same names.
0 new messages