Best Struts/shocks - 2000 Concorde 110K Miles
jaygreg
at Summit Racing (links provided). I could use some help with the
decision. Which if the options is the best for my car? I've recapped
the options below followed by a few other questions:
From Summit Racing:
Front Passenger
Monroe Sensa-Trac MON-71667ST $79.95
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Chassis-Suspension/Year/2000/Make/CHRYSLER/Model/CONCORDE/?Ns=Rank|Asc
KYB GR-2 gas shock/strut KYB 235617 $59.95
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Chassis-Suspension/Year/2000/Make/CHRYSLER/Model/CONCORDE/?Ns=Rank|Asc&page=2
Front Driver
Monroe Sensa-Trac MON-71668ST $79.95
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Chassis-Suspension/Year/2000/Make/CHRYSLER/Model/CONCORDE/?Ns=Rank|Asc
KYB GR-2 gas shock/strut KYB 235618 $59.95
Rear
Monroe Sensa-Trac MON-71669ST $69.95
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Chassis-Suspension/Year/2000/Make/CHRYSLER/Model/CONCORDE/?Ns=Rank|Asc
KYB GR-2 gas shock/strut KYB-235619 $59.95
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Chassis-Suspension/Year/2000/Make/CHRYSLER/Model/CONCORDE/?Ns=Rank|Asc
Questions:
1) Which brand is best for my car?
2) Should I replace coil springs as well? All four?
3) Do I need " Monroe strut-Mate Mounting Kits"? 903901MM $69.95
each
a) Just one plate per shock?
b) Replace all four?
Joe Pfeiffer
> I need to replace the suspension on this car and plan to buy the parts
> at Summit Racing (links provided). I could use some help with the
> decision. Which if the options is the best for my car? I've recapped
> the options below followed by a few other questions:
>
> 1) Which brand is best for my car?
> 2) Should I replace coil springs as well? All four?
> 3) Do I need " Monroe strut-Mate Mounting Kits"? 903901MM $69.95
> each
> a) Just one plate per shock?
> b) Replace all four?
1) Without even following the links, the first question just doesn't
even make sense without some idea of what you want. I really like KYB,
but I also like a stiffer spring than the published rating.
2) Why do you think you might need to replace the springs? Are they
sagging? Do you want a stiffer spring than stock?
3) Dunno.
--
As we enjoy great advantages from the inventions of others, we should
be glad of an opportunity to serve others by any invention of ours;
and this we should do freely and generously. (Benjamin Franklin)
jaygreg
Thanks for the reply, Joe. Let me answer your questions:
>>the first question just doesn't even make sense without some idea of what you want.<<
I want as smooth a ride as possible. I seldom carry anything other
than myself; heavy loads are not an issue. I dislike sports car type
rides (bumpy).
>> Why do you think you might need to replace the springs?<<
I was acting upon what the instructor/mechanic suggested; a complete
assembly that included the coil. When I told him it wasn't available
for my car, he said "That's OK. Just replace the struts" (Are these
struts or shocks ... and what's the difference?)
Are those plates "usually" replaced when people replace their struts?
According to the description that goes with their pictures on the
website, they talk about ensuring a smooth ride. Is it "bunk" if the
original plates aren't damaged or worn? (But surely they'd be worn
after 110K miles, wouldn't they?)
aarcuda69062
<67818a6b-a43f-4542...@j19g2000yqk.googlegroups.com>,
jaygreg <jayg...@hotmail.com> wrote:
Complete assemblies are available from Monroe, called "quick struts"
part numbers are;
RF- 171667
LF- 171668
Rear 171669
Expect to pay $100 or so more for the quick strut per unit above what
the strut sells for individually. Saves labor and there are no surprise
'we need that part but can't get it today' issues.
Problem is; they are Monroe, the KYB is a far better product.
I've had too many instances of Monroe shocks that were noisy right out
of the box.
Difference between a shock and a strut; a shock absorber is typically a
stand alone part, a strut typically captures the spring (spring and
shock together) and in the case of the fronts, serves as the upper
steering pivot point akin to the lower ball joint.
> Are those plates "usually" replaced when people replace their struts?
> According to the description that goes with their pictures on the
> website, they talk about ensuring a smooth ride. Is it "bunk" if the
> original plates aren't damaged or worn? (But surely they'd be worn
> after 110K miles, wouldn't they?)
Not always worn after 110K miles, they can rust and rot though,
primarily the plates that actually support the top of the spring.
Be advised, the sway bar links bolt to the strut, they (stock OEM)
seldom come apart without a fight, you may want to have them on hand.
jaygreg
> In article
> <67818a6b-a43f-4542-911a-0aec5b09c...@j19g2000yqk.googlegroups.com>,
The entire sway bar or just some connector? What's the name of the
part I should look up?
Bill Putney
>> Be advised, the sway bar links bolt to the strut, they (stock OEM)
>> seldom come apart without a fight, you may want to have them on hand.
>
>
> The entire sway bar or just some connector? What's the name of the
> part I should look up?
"Sway (or stabilizer) bar end link" - it is a rigid round bar about 1
foot long with a small ball joint on both ends - the ball joint stud on
one end connects to the sway bar, and connects to a bracket that is
attached to (pre-welded to) the strut on the other end.
Here's a photo of mine of two of them together:
http://images106.fotki.com/v509/photos/4/42816/1814775/05Both-vi.jpg
They happen to be a Moog and a TRW version of the part (the parts stores
sell them interchangeably in the same box under the same part number
since Moog and TRW are the same company and for some reason continue to
make both versions - the Moog (their "Problem Solver" line) has grease
fittings and is hecho en Mexico, the TRW is made in USA.
--
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')
aarcuda69062
Bill Putney <bp...@kinez.net> wrote:
> jaygreg wrote:
>
> >> Be advised, the sway bar links bolt to the strut, they (stock OEM)
> >> seldom come apart without a fight, you may want to have them on hand.
> >
> >
> > The entire sway bar or just some connector? What's the name of the
> > part I should look up?
>
> "Sway (or stabilizer) bar end link" - it is a rigid round bar about 1
> foot long with a small ball joint on both ends - the ball joint stud on
> one end connects to the sway bar, and connects to a bracket that is
> attached to (pre-welded to) the strut on the other end.
>
> Here's a photo of mine of two of them together:
> http://images106.fotki.com/v509/photos/4/42816/1814775/05Both-vi.jpg
>
> They happen to be a Moog and a TRW version of the part (the parts stores
> sell them interchangeably in the same box under the same part number
> since Moog and TRW are the same company and for some reason continue to
> make both versions - the Moog (their "Problem Solver" line) has grease
> fittings and is hecho en Mexico, the TRW is made in USA.
jaygreg, look closely at Bills picture, the part on top is different
than the part on the bottom, notice that the part on top has a hex at
the base of the threaded stud. This makes installation and removal a
whole lot easier because it gives a way to grab the stud with a wrench.
The version on the bottom will spin miserably once the nut is cracked
loose. better doesn't -have- to be a hex, two flats work well also.
Stock IIRC is usually an internal hex for an allen wrench which will
bust out when you try to torque past any rust and or just by the
friction of the lock nut.
Bill Putney
> jaygreg, look closely at Bills picture, the part on top is different
> than the part on the bottom, notice that the part on top has a hex at
> the base of the threaded stud. This makes installation and removal a
> whole lot easier because it gives a way to grab the stud with a wrench...
That's a good point you make.
> The version on the bottom will spin miserably once the nut is cracked
> loose...
It does have a much smaller hex to keep it from turning - on the tip of
the stud (small enough hex that the nut is a free to slip over it). The
size of that hex on the tip is 5/16" or 8 mm (not sure which they
intended - probably 8 mm - *BUT*, 5/16" will fit and is slightly tighter
(which is good in this case, because it needs all the torque capability
it can have). Whichever you use - 8 mm or 5/16" socket or box end, it
*MUST* be a 6 point (vs. 12 point) if, as aarcuda points out, it has
much corrosion at all.
> ...Stock IIRC is usually an internal hex for an allen wrench which will
> bust out when you try to torque past any rust and or just by the
> friction of the lock nut.
As an owner of two Concordes (a '99 and a '98), I can say that mine came
from the factory with the type on the bottom of the photo (IOW, TRW is
the OEM supplier). As I point out above, it is not an internal hex, but
an external hex - *BEST* wrench to keep it from turning while you loosen
the nut is a 5/16" 6-point (8 mm will work, and is probably what it is
designed for, but it won't fit as snuggly and provide quite as much
torque before slipping as the 5/16" will - but, again, don't even think
of using a 12-point).
jaygreg
OK guys... UPDATE! The fourth nut was loosed this AM. I'm ready to
order suspension parts.
It looks like Joe and aarcuda#s like KYB struts so... I'll go with
them. I guess I'll order plates as well but...
Q1) ... are there two plates for the front as well as two for the
back?
Q2) What the probability the mechanic will tell me I need new
stabilizers? It may take me 24 hours to get them so... what's their
approximate price? (Maybe I'll buy them on a rubber band and return
them id not used. If Summit Racing will let me.)
Q3) Just to recap... aside from Q2, I should order front and rear
shocks plus (2 or 4?) plates?
Bill Putney
> ...Q2) What the probability the mechanic will tell me I need new
> stabilizers? It may take me 24 hours to get them so... what's their
> approximate price? (Maybe I'll buy them on a rubber band and return
> them id not used. If Summit Racing will let me.)...
The stabilizer or sway bars don't go bad. You can upgrade to 300M
Special/Police sway bars, but as far as your original ones going bad -
they don't.
jaygreg
Did I misread aarcuda?>> Be advised, the sway bar links bolt to the
Bill Putney
He was talking about the stabilizer bar (sway bar) end links. You said
stabilizer, which means the sway bar itself. The end link (one on each
end of the sway bar) is a stiff rod approx. 12" long that has a ball
joint on both ends. One end connects to the sway bar, the other
connects to a bracket attached to the strut.
Yes - certainly the end links (their ball joints) do go bad and need
replacing periodically.
jaygreg
Got it! What about those "plates"? Are there 2 or 4?
Ashton Crusher
wrote:
Considering that most cars just use rubber for the link ends I would
think an end link that's built like a tie rod end or ball joint ought
to last the life of the vehicle. Do they really wear out?
Bill Putney
>> ...Yes - certainly the end links (their ball joints) do go bad and need
>> replacing periodically.
>
> Considering that most cars just use rubber for the link ends I would
> think an end link that's built like a tie rod end or ball joint ought
> to last the life of the vehicle. Do they really wear out?
Yeah - well - that's what you get for thinking! LOL!
Seriously - As an owner of two Concordes and years-long participant on 3
different LH car-specific forums, I can say with complete confidence
that they definitely do. Prolly 8+ times out of 10, if the front end is
clunking on speed bumps/pot holes/etc., it's either the sway bar
bushings or the end links (or both) needing replacing.
Bill Putney
> ...Got it! What about those "plates"? Are there 2 or 4?
If by 'plates', you mean the mounting kits (bearing/mount assemblies), I
would say definitely you should replace the fronts. The rears I'm not
too sure about. I believe the rears are just a solid metal part since
they do not have to rotate like the fronts do with steering. The fronts
support the weight of the car while turning and have a bearing built
into them and definitely should be replaced with the struts.
I am confident in what I say about the fronts, but am not too sure of
how accurate what I said about the rears is (which is why I ignored your
question on that earlier), so hopefully someone who knows the answer to
that will chime in.
Rob
it was making a popping noise and jerking a little every time i turned the
wheel. its still good and tight a year later but i checked the left one
this weekend to see how tight it was and i has lots of back and forth play.
didnt disconnect it and use a pry bar to check for play , but I'm sure after
169,000 miles it is needing a new one.
i haven't checked my sway bar bushings but i look on others peoples vehicles
from time to time in the shop and they tend to shrink , shrivel, etc and
pull away from the sway bar, causing it to make noise. real common on high
mileage mini vans.
"Bill Putney" <bp...@kinez.net> wrote in message
news:7no6s0F...@mid.individual.net...
Rob
not for others. first gen anyway. i haven't looked into 2nd gen.
but they are available for the first gen Concorde but not the LHS and
Newyorker. I'm sure there is a reason for it but I'm not sure what it is
right now.
"Rob" <m...@home.orgg> wrote in message
news:4b171671$0$4972$9a6e...@unlimited.newshosting.com...
Steve
> Ashton Crusher wrote:
>> On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 06:29:47 -0500, Bill Putney <bp...@kinez.net>
>> wrote:
>
>>> ...Yes - certainly the end links (their ball joints) do go bad and
>>> need replacing periodically.
>>
>> Considering that most cars just use rubber for the link ends I would
>> think an end link that's built like a tie rod end or ball joint ought
>> to last the life of the vehicle. Do they really wear out?
>
> Yeah - well - that's what you get for thinking! LOL!
>
> Seriously - As an owner of two Concordes and years-long participant on 3
> different LH car-specific forums, I can say with complete confidence
> that they definitely do. Prolly 8+ times out of 10, if the front end is
> clunking on speed bumps/pot holes/etc., it's either the sway bar
> bushings or the end links (or both) needing replacing.
>
What's worse, the ball-joint (or even Heim-joint) type get really,
really, really NOISY as they start to wear out. As soon as any play at
all develops, you get a "clunk" every time the end link has to go from
tension to compression.