DIY - plate painting question
Baba Yaga
Silly question, really, but when you guys paint the top plate of the amp
or preamp, what do you use to get a really smooth, well-finished
appearance? I've used a primer followed by a lacquer, but the appearance
is really rough (I used a fine-hair brush to apply the paint).
Thanks,
Vandit
--
Vandit Kalia GO FLYERS!!!!!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Eagles may soar, but weasels dont get sucked into jet engines
Sheldon D. Stokes
> Silly question, really, but when you guys paint the top plate of the amp
> or preamp, what do you use to get a really smooth, well-finished
> appearance? I've used a primer followed by a lacquer, but the appearance
> is really rough (I used a fine-hair brush to apply the paint).
I always spray paint. I used to have access to shop air, and I could use
a gun, but these days I'm limited to spray cans. Try using a spray can,
pracitce on a box or something you don't care about. There's a technique
to spray can painting.
Sheldon
--
"...from Genghis Kahn to the Fuller brush man, they're just a bunch
of losers like me" -Dave VanRonk
Remove SPAM_BE_GONE from my address to reply to me.
Jamie
For an exciting finish, try swirling the metal with a rotary sander, or
rotary wire brush bit. Then, put clear laquer (many coats) over it......
Jamie Campbell
Paul Gustafson
Hi Baba,
Not really a silly question you asked.
You could try some retarder in the paint, it slows the drying time and
makes it flow out better. There used to be this stuff called Penetrol
that was really good, it made the paint flow out to a perfectly smooth
coating, I think it can still be gotten?? Marine supply??
You could also spray it on. Use Krylon, it flows out well. You'll notice
that spray paint is much thinner than right out of the can, there's a
reason for that. You can thin brush on paint a lot more than you think.
It'll just take longer to dry. Don't rush it. You can add about a
shotglass or more of thinner to a quart of paint and get away with it.
I'm talking about Rustoleum here. Thin it until there is almost no drag
on the stirrer as you mix in the thinner. You'll be able to feel it
getting thinner. If you want to you can wet sand the primer first w/600
grit to get it perfect then shoot on the color. Painting is as much an
art as tube audio, it takes a certain amount of finesse. I have had to
strip and repaint many times to develop the "touch".If you are going to
spray it put it on a couple of blocks of wood underneath so the edges
don't stick to whatever it's on. Practice on a similar piece of metal
first so you don't have to strip your good piece if it don't look right.
Good luck,
Paul G.
Baba Yaga wrote:
>
> Silly question, really, but when you guys paint the top plate of the amp
> or preamp, what do you use to get a really smooth, well-finished
> appearance? I've used a primer followed by a lacquer, but the appearance
> is really rough (I used a fine-hair brush to apply the paint).
>
Bob Fitzgerald
I painted my wife's car a few years ago, plus did quite a few motorcycles,
etc. through the years. Pretty easy if you use lacquer and don't mind a
little work.
First, I recommend you try a library to get a book on automotive
refinishing. Only if you are serious, though.
Start with bare metal. Use a good solvent to clean it fully, lacquer thinner
will do.
Then use a surface metal etch(acid - use gloves), especially on steel,
available at auto body paint stores (optional I guess..)
Then primer. Try to use the same type as the top coat - lacquer primer under
lacquer top coat. In general, you can put enamel over lacquer, but NEVER
lacquer over enamel.
Buy some wet sand paper, 200, 400, 600, 800. Wet sand the primer, with 200
then 400. Apply another coat, and re-sand until the primer is perfect.
Apply the finish coats, and let dry at least 24 hours.
Wet sand the finish coat, *very* lightly starting with 400, then go to 600,
800 or color paper. Rinse with clean water between sanding grades. Finally,
polish with lacquer "hand" polishing compound. Continue with the polish
compound until you have a mirror finish. This is brief, but in general, you
can polish lacquer, even if applied by brush, to a great finish. Does NOT
work for enamels though, at least the ones in spray cans.
Bob
Baba Yaga wrote in message <6nca08$3...@netaxs.com>...
Randall Bradley
F... powder coating. The metal must be perfect, free of any
dirt or grease, and you are at the mercy of the powder coat
house. which, if it is a great one, and doesn't mind doing
little tiny "one-off" jobs at a reasonable price is great.
But, for every one like that I've got horror stories from
ten!
My fav is Rustoleum, baked! Apply the Rustoleum as you would
do any high quality spray job, but bake the sucker in your
oven at LESS than 212 degrees for about 1 to 2 hours, depending
upon if you like rare or well done chassis - only kidding. The
result is a very hard, scratch resistant finish. You will need
to ventilate the house, as it will smell of the "fish-oil"
additive in the paint.
The result is very different than air dried, much harder and
much better adhesion to the surface.
Pre-heat the oven is best. Nice even temp.
Very low WAF, but great results. Works best on a day when you
are going to eat fish anyway!!
_-_-
Paul Gustafson
The powder coat method comes out beautiful doesn't it? I have gotten a
pretty nice finish using a sandblaster also. It works well on steel
using kids play sand. It comes out looking almost like powder coat but
it needs to be clear coated after. It works on aluminum using crushed
walnut shells. The sand is too abrasive on aluminum and ends up smearing
the metal. I have a kit I got from J.C. Whitney for 20 bucks that works
pretty well.
Good thread,
Paul
Kirk R. Patton wrote:
> I have most of my chassis and such powder-coated . . . with a
> preparation of fine bead-blasting. The surface is very tough, durable,
> available in lots of colors, an okay dielectric, non-flamable, and it
> hides flaws well. Having the work done is fairly cheap, and it keeps me
> away from the fumes and overspray.
>
> Regards,
>
> Kirk Patton