I've nothing heard good things about Dayton's mobile line of subs as well. Stick with a small, sealed box...whatever size Partsexpress recommends.
Tony
-- Eclipse CD8454 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and ZX500 Amplifiers, Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30-Band EQ, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, 2 Soundstream EXACT10s In Aperiodic Enclosure
> At home theater forums, pretty much any time that someone asks about a > good budget subwoofer, the Dayton 10" powered subwoofer from Parts > Express ( > http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-632 > ) is immediately suggested. This subwoofer is consistently praised for > sounding much better than its price would indicate. I have one myself > and it's great.
> I'm looking for a car audio equivalent.
> My Kenwood KAC-8401 is currently using 2 channels to power the front > speakers and I would like to bridge the other 2 channels for 1 180-watt > RMS channel (according to Kenwood specs) to power a subwoofer.
> What subwoofer and what kind of box should I get? I don't want loud and > boomy. Tightness is very important to me.
At home theater forums, pretty much any time that someone asks about a good budget subwoofer, the Dayton 10" powered subwoofer from Parts Express ( http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-632 ) is immediately suggested. This subwoofer is consistently praised for sounding much better than its price would indicate. I have one myself and it's great.
I'm looking for a car audio equivalent.
My Kenwood KAC-8401 is currently using 2 channels to power the front speakers and I would like to bridge the other 2 channels for 1 180-watt RMS channel (according to Kenwood specs) to power a subwoofer.
What subwoofer and what kind of box should I get? I don't want loud and boomy. Tightness is very important to me.
I'm very happy with my JL 8W7. I built a sealed enclosure from MDF, sized according to JL recommendations. Lots of tight bass with a (relatively) small footprint.
They sound very good, tune easily in reasonably sized enclosures, and handle a bunch of abuse... we have people using these for SPL competition getting up into the mid-160's without driver damage, not bad for a sub that sells for $49-$59 retail. They're 4 ohm drivers which should match your amp's load rating perfectly.
Duc wrote: >At home theater forums, pretty much any time that someone asks about a >good budget subwoofer, the Dayton 10" powered subwoofer from Parts >Express ( >http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-632 >) is immediately suggested. This subwoofer is consistently praised for >sounding much better than its price would indicate. I have one myself >and it's great.
>I'm looking for a car audio equivalent.
>My Kenwood KAC-8401 is currently using 2 channels to power the front >speakers and I would like to bridge the other 2 channels for 1 180-watt >RMS channel (according to Kenwood specs) to power a subwoofer.
>What subwoofer and what kind of box should I get? I don't want loud and >boomy. Tightness is very important to me.
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