http://www.bluecowcables.com/product.php?id_product=44
Information from the product page...
A miniature partial regulated power distributor made by Blue Cow
Cables, designed for powering sound bags containing a mixer and
recorder.
Features
2x Female 4 Pin Hirose sockets on the top of the unit, regulated to
12v capable of delivering up to 2A/2000ma each, both of these outputs
each contain a thermal fuse.
2x Unregulated fly leads ending with 4 Pin Hirose male plugs.
Everything is fed from the 4 Pin XLR, however, it is also possible one
of the fly leads to be used to feed the device, one should be careful
of the exposed pins on the XLR4 if using the Sound Power 2+2 in this
way.
Weight: 130g/4.5oz
Amp/Voltage Ratings:
More than 6A and no voltage higher than 28v should be loaded through
the 4 Pin XLR, No More than 2A should be loaded on a single Hirose
connector, however pulling up to 6A between the 4 is fine as long as
no single Hirose connector is loaded with more than 2A. These are the
maximum ratings Hirose and Neutrik have given these ratings, this
power unit has been built to be able to take the maximum load ratings
on given by the manufacturer.
This is more than enough for almost all sound bags, perfect for a 442
or 552 with a 744t or 788t with 4 radio mic receivers.
However..
I prefer the battery bud's fully modular, all connections on the
bottom approach. I feel that these two properties are important when
installing one of these things into an actual working bag with limited
space.. There simply isn't room for cables to be spilling out of 3
different sides of a box.. at least not in my bags which I strive to
keep as compact as possible. Also, I feel that it would need a power
switch (note:I find the bds's unswitched-output to be pretty useless
and would prefer for all outputs to have a single on/off switch)
Best of luck,
Derek
"Derek" <derek....@gmail.com> a �crit dans le message de news:
8368c772-a673-489a...@a31g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
For those who might not be aware, the BDS box is normally shipped with
outlet #1 "unswitched" (stays on even when the main switch is turned
off), but can easily be made to be "switched" (follows the function of
the main switch) by moving a jumper inside the box (no soldering
required).
Glen Trew
I, indeed, were among those not aware! That's great to know, thanks
Glen!
I personally see a master switch as pointless because....
I'd never turn off a HD recorder by removing the power,
The switch wouldn't be easily accessible,
If I'm running receivers (e.g. audio ltds), I'd have internal
batteries in them for redundancy which would mean I'd have to unplug
them anyway as the switch is a pain,
If was doing the same thing with a 744t or similar recorder, turning
the power off wouldn't turn it off.
- John
www.BlueCowCables.com
Well...not to be argumentative, but I've turned my entire bag (save for my
recorder) on and off with a master switch for many years. My Lectrosonics
receivers are external power only (205's, SR's) and my outgoing transmitters
(hops and IFB) all have battery eliminators in them so they are externally
powered only as well. The Sound Devices mixers have a switch for internal or
external powering.
So, one flip of the switch and EVERYTHING is up. Another flip and everything
is off. Well...now with the Remote Audio Meter Remote it's one press of two
buttons!
Andy