REVIEW: Unzipped
bfr...@panix.com
Featuring Isaac Mizrahi, Naomi Campbell, Sandra Bernhard
Edited by Paula Heredia
Directed by Douglas Keeve
U.S.A., 1995
Who would have thought that one of the year's most satisfying
movies would be a 79-minute documentary about a clothing designer? A year
ago, who would have guessed that Robert Altman's fashion industry
barbecue, READY TO WEAR (then called PRET-A-PORTER), would seem so
baggage-laden, and that unknown documentarian Douglas Keeve's doting
portrait of Isaac Mizrahi would seem lighter than air?
Your mileage may vary, but for this jaded moviegoer, UNZIPPED is
an unmitigated treat, as much a relief from the practiced heaviosity of
Hollywood buckbusters as an air-conditioned movie house is from the
burning city streets. Keeve's movie feels so free because it's a portrait
of the fashion industry from the inside, from a vantage point that those
with cynical intent could never reach (it's no secret that Keeve and
Mizrahi were in the throes of a relationship during the shoot, but any
reference to this has been excised from the finished product).
This is perhaps the most absurd of all big-ticket industries, and
Keeve shows what it feels like from the inside, when it lets its guard
down. Mizrahi looks as much like a Peter Pan as any pop superstar, using
NANOOK OF THE NORTH as a springboard for his fall collection or cavorting
with beautiful supermodels as though all the streets of New York lead to
Neverland. What's at stake, though, is his professional reputation. In
the opening scenes, we see a little clowd following Mizrahi through
Manhattan as he reads the decidedly unflattering reviews of his latest
collection. This tragedy in miniature sets the story in motion, as we
watch Mizrahi struggle to recreate his own image as well as some cool
clothes.
Followers of the biz will no doubt enjoy seeing Mizrahi at work,
expounding on his personal philosophy, switching into depressive mode when
he learns that Gaultier may beat him to the "Eskimo chic" punch, and
confessing to his mother that he used to steal money from her purse as a
child (home movie footage reveals that he sported that Eraserhead 'do even
then). Douglas Keeve works stylishly enough to suck in the unconverted,
as well, with sometimes-arty composition within the frame and occasional
inserts of film leader to remind us of the documentary process.
The centerpiece is the all-important fashion show in New York's
Bryant Park, captured in full brilliant 35mm color with swooping crane
shots and a throbbing soundtrack. The glossy shots of the catwalk itself
are intercut with more jittery footage from backstage, as the models
struggle to change from outfit to outfit, and Mizrahi himself hops around,
coaching them like a high school drama teacher. These scenes are
breathtaking, and Keeve helps us understand what all the fuss is about,
even if we still believe the whole business is a little weird. We come
away feeling like we know a little bit about Isaac Mizrahi, even if the
movie concentrates conspicuously on painting a picture of the fashion
industry as a perfect world, and turning Mizrahi into a hero. But when you
consider the standard Hollywood alternatives for hero worship (Stallone,
Segal, et. al.), that might not be such a bad thing after all.
DEEP FOCUS: Archived Movie Reviews by Bryant Frazer
http://www.panix.com/~bfrazer/flicker/
bfr...@panix.com
--
Renee Schwager
Movie. Just saw it and the audience here in Washington, D.C. applauded.
It's funny, insightful (into the biz), and will keep you interested.
--
Renee Schwager
rsch...@capcon.net