Cheapest acrylic painting surface?
Richard
I am using acrylic paints and I would like to know what the cheapest
surface is for painting. It can just be anything that I can slap some
acrylic gesso on and paint on. It doesn't have to last forever or be
super great in any other way. I just want something that I can paint
on and preferably won't warp from the gesso and the paint, just
something very cheap I can use for practicing painting techniques.
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Richard
I am using acrylic paints and I would like to know what the cheapest
surface is for painting. It can just be anything that I can slap some
acrylic gesso on and paint on. It doesn't have to last forever or be
super great in any other way. I just want something that I can paint
on and preferably won't warp from the gesso and the paint, just
something very cheap I can use for practicing painting techniques.
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Margie Nall
says...
>I am using acrylic paints and I would like to know what the cheapest
>surface is for painting.
Ever thought of using PAPER? You can get
paper that is made for painting on, but
you'll have to pay for it unless you know
another way of acquiring it...cardboard
and paper waste is free to those willing
to look for it.
This is the sort of question you should
be posing to your art teachers since you
have said you're in school.
NightMist
wrote:
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>
>
>I am using acrylic paints and I would like to know what the cheapest
>surface is for painting. It can just be anything that I can slap some
>acrylic gesso on and paint on. It doesn't have to last forever or be
>super great in any other way. I just want something that I can paint
>on and preferably won't warp from the gesso and the paint, just
>something very cheap I can use for practicing painting techniques.
>
You can use bristol or tag board, gesso would be optional.
If you want something sturdier (and cheaper), try this:
Take 3 similar size pieces of corrugated cardboard.
Coat one side of 2 of the pieces with a mixture of half white
glue-half water.
Layer the pieces, piece one glue side up piece two (the glue free
piece) on top with the corrugations at a 90 degree angle to those of
piece one, piece three glue side down on piece 2 again with the
corrugations at a 90 degree angle to those of piece 2.
Press lightly and evenly as you can with your hands and clamp it
(putting it underneath something is OK but it will take longer to
dry).
Wipe off any excess glue with a damp rag and leave it to dry for at
least 24 hours, preferably 36-48.
After it's dry you can saw this into as many pieces as you want. If
you have the space to do several appliance boxes at once, you will be
in cheap, rigid, non-archival panals for a while. These will not
warp, and you can use both sides if you like.
I picked up the notion in theater where boards like this are made
several layers thick as a lightweight alternative to lumber for stage
sets. More than a couple of layers and they are actually capable of
being weight bearing.
You could probably get away with just 2 layers instead of three for a
non warping painting board, I'm just sort of anal about things.
Barbara
--
everybody is somebodys chew toy
Jiri Borsky
>
> I used to have my students buy large-format
> sketch pads (not newsprint, but the less-expensive drawing paper) and work
> directly on the pad with acrylics. When one piece is dry (or even before),
> you just tear it off and start again. You can prop the sketchpad up on an
> easel or work flat.
>
> The results, while not designed to last forever, are surprisingly durable.
Why should not they be?
Good acrylic paint will almost look after itself, and out-support the
"support", if you know what I mean.
Jiri Borsky
www.borsky.com