Watercolor paper problems
Diane Sobony
Need help on how to properly soak the paper before watercoloring. It
keeps buckling on me. Any tips will be appreciated.~
Thanks~
Diane
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Diane Sobony internet: ocsqnt!sobony@sequent
SW District Administrator uucp: ...!sequent!sobony
Sean E. Williams
Sobony) writes:
>
>Need help on how to properly soak the paper before watercoloring. It
>keeps buckling on me. Any tips will be appreciated.~
>
I can't really help you, I've always had the same problem.
I've seen people tape down each side of the paper to the
table, but that doesn't always help either. When I was
in the campus bookstore the other day, I noticed a special
tablet of watercolor paper. The tablet is bound on all four
sides, whereas most tablets are bound on only one side.
The theory is that you paint on the topmost sheet, and then
remove it from the tablet. I'm not sure how this works
in actual practice, however.
-sean
art and technology -- a new unity... bauhaus
_______________________________________________________________________________
sean e. williams, (sew...@ritvax.isc.rit.edu), is a student of imaging and
photographic technology in the school of photographic arts & sciences at the
rochester institute of technology in beautiful rochester, new york. (he's also
taking a few telecommunications courses...) You can call him at 716-475-3570.
Phil Tripp
>In article <1992Jun17....@sequent.com>, sob...@sequent.com (Diane
>Sobony) writes:
>
>>
>>Need help on how to properly soak the paper before watercoloring. It
>>keeps buckling on me. Any tips will be appreciated.~
>
> I can't really help you, I've always had the same problem.
> I've seen people tape down each side of the paper to the
> table, but that doesn't always help either. When I was
> in the campus bookstore the other day, I noticed a special
> tablet of watercolor paper. The tablet is bound on all four
> sides, whereas most tablets are bound on only one side.
> The theory is that you paint on the topmost sheet, and then
> remove it from the tablet. I'm not sure how this works
> in actual practice, however.
The watercolor "tablet" you describe is called a "block," and they
do work fairly well. There are a few disadvantages or drawbacks with
watercolor blocks:
1. Cost. Blocks generally cost more than the same amount of
paper in individual sheets.
2. Surface texture/paper type limitations. Since blocks are
made in only a few varieties of paper types, you may not
be able to easily find a block with the the paper you want
to use.
3. You can only paint on the sheet that is on top of the block
unlike a pad or loose sheet. You have to finish the painting
on the top sheet and let it dry completely before you remove
it and make the sheet below available for use. Depending on
how you paint, this may or may not be a problem.
4. The glue/plastic/binder that holds the sheets flat on the block
often will not hold if the paper gets very wet or dries quickly.
Generally, it holds under gentle use. I reinforce the edge of
the block with paper tape and overlap the top surface with the
tape as well about 1/4 to 1/2".
Blocks come in a fairly large variety of sizes so size should not be a
problem. You can always do a smaller painting on a larger block.
Another technique for dealing with watercolor paper, which I learned
about twenty years ago from a neighbor who is an artist/art teacher is
this:
1. Get or make a wood frame like, or similar to, the ones used for
stretching canvas for oil painting.
2. Reinforce the frame with about twice the braces/supports you
would normally use for stretching canvas.
3. Select a sheet of watercolor paper that is larger than the
frame by about 4-6" on all sides.
4. Soak the paper thoroughly. The time this takes depends on the
type of paper. The paper should be completely wet all the way
through.
5. Fasten the paper to the frame overlapping the paper around the
frame as though wrapping a package, stapling the paper to the
frame on the back side. Use lots of staples. Use a hand staple
gun. Do not stretch or force the paper.
The paper will dry and become very, very taut, like a drum. Sometimes the
force of the drying is incredible and the paper will tear.
Another technique is to staple and tape (paper gummed tape) a soaked sheet
to a piece of 3/4" exterior plywood. Don't overlap like with the frame, just
fix to the "front" surface or put a sheet on each side.
I don't use these techniques very much anymore as I now use less water and
do lots of "dry-brush" work. I use cotton content paper of medium to light
weight including printmaking stock. I select the paper for its surface
texture (usually smooth) and for its ability to retain the most color from
the paint. Any wrinkling that happens, I live with it, or after the paper
is dry I flatten it under heavy weights for a day or two.
Hope this helps,
Phil
--
Phil Tripp, Computing and Information Resources, U of Denver, Denver, CO, USA
ptr...@zephyr.cair.du.edu
marcie
>In article <1992Jun17....@sequent.com>, sob...@sequent.com (Diane
>Sobony) writes:
>
>>
>>Need help on how to properly soak the paper before watercoloring. It
>>keeps buckling on me. Any tips will be appreciated.~
>>
>
> I can't really help you, I've always had the same problem.
> I've seen people tape down each side of the paper to the
> table, but that doesn't always help either. When I was
> in the campus bookstore the other day, I noticed a special
> tablet of watercolor paper. The tablet is bound on all four
> sides, whereas most tablets are bound on only one side.
> The theory is that you paint on the topmost sheet, and then
> remove it from the tablet. I'm not sure how this works
> in actual practice, however.
>
out...which some people like.). Soak for a few minutes in the tub then stretch:
There are several metods for this.
1. The usual: Tack or tape to a board. The tape to use is the kind that you
have to wet (old style packing tape). Obviously, self sticking kind is oil
based and won't adhere to wet things. Tacks can be anything from pushpins to
staples (from a gun, that is..) Stretch gently starting at the middles of
the four sides (similar to stretching canvas...but not too tight cause it
shrinks.
Part two...watch for it... gotta get off the modem...
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Marcie email : mwa...@utkvx3.utk.edu
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marcie
>In article <1992Jun18....@ultb.isc.rit.edu>, sew...@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes...
>>In article <1992Jun17....@sequent.com>, sob...@sequent.com (Diane
>>Sobony) writes:
>>
>>>
>>>Need help on how to properly soak the paper before watercoloring. It
>>>keeps buckling on me. Any tips will be appreciated.~
2. Build a wooden frame and stretch the paper as above using tacks or
staples. For w/c I use store-boughten ;} stretcher bars, since you remove
the finished work. Don't stretch tight! The paper will shrink ALOT! Don't
forget to leave enough room to wrap around to either the sides or the back and
then a margin across the flat surface because this method leaves a crease where
the paper crosses the frame. Generally I use a lighter weight of paper for this
method than others because of flexibility.
A word re: blocks...Theyre nice if you can afford them...but get a
decent brand (d'Arches) and think a bit about the size. You will need to leave
a margin as usual... Personally I like to buy paper in a roll. The main
drawbacks I find with blocks: sometimes you tear your stuff separating it and
sometimes the b;locks fall apart. The best point IMHO: they are neat and
portable. Oh, another drawback: you can't get at the other sheets to paint more
than one at a time. Non-stretch paper is wierd as far as texture is concerned,
but it works. I wouldn't consider it to be archival...