Hi Nu Gundam photos on my website
Neo Zeon
last are available on my website ( see below) the photos I took of my1/100
MG + resins Hi Nu Gundam kit from Bandai + B-club.
The painting was made with acrylics for the base coat and artist's oil
paints for shading and weathering, as usual. Handbrushing, of course.
See you
--
Neo Zeon Gundam modeling website:
http://members.xoom.virgilio.it/neozeonforge/index.htm
Unknown
wrote:
>I'm really happy to announce, after many, many months of "vacation", that at
>last are available on my website ( see below) the photos I took of my1/100
>MG + resins Hi Nu Gundam kit from Bandai + B-club.
Where is it? Can't find it from your site... I can only see the MG
models.
Nev
Neo Zeon
You may reach it through 3 ways: clicking on the opening image, or clicking
on the red link or via the usual route.
;-)
Andrea
<Nevin Wong> ha scritto nel messaggio
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Unknown
wrote:
>I placed it in the MG gallery togheter with the rest of the models.
>You may reach it through 3 ways: clicking on the opening image, or clicking
>on the red link or via the usual route.
Well, it wasn't there when I went there this morning... may be some
proxy problems, I guess.
Why is the extension of the page .dwt? I can't get mozilla to render
it as html.
The decals are nice. Does the kit balance well? Since the backpack is
resin, and it's pretty big and heavy... oh wait, the fin funnels are
from the MG kit itself, right?
Nev
Futari-G
Andrea, #1- You're a manic for painting all that by hand! :-D
#2- When I click on the pics, all I get is the page source code. I don't
know if that just me.
#3- From that small pics, looks very nice.
Jeff
--
"Introducing logic into dogma can be quite a volatile mixture."
Futari Creations-anime models, and not much else!
http://home.earthlink.net/~futari/main.htm
Neo Zeon
<Nevin Wong> ha scritto nel messaggio
> On Sun, 15 Jun 2003 09:12:28 GMT, "Neo Zeon" <neo...@libero.it>
> wrote:
>
> >I placed it in the MG gallery togheter with the rest of the models.
> >You may reach it through 3 ways: clicking on the opening image, or
clicking
> >on the red link or via the usual route.
>
> Well, it wasn't there when I went there this morning... may be some
> proxy problems, I guess.
>
> Why is the extension of the page .dwt? I can't get mozilla to render
> it as html.
I really can't help you about it, I'm not an expert of programming. The
entire site is made with Dreamweaver, a grafical interface
> The decals are nice. Does the kit balance well? Since the backpack is
> resin, and it's pretty big and heavy... oh wait, the fin funnels are
> from the MG kit itself, right?
The kit is totally unbalanced and heavy and the torso tends to fall
backward, out of the polycap socket. The funnels are straight from the box,
only their boosters are resins. You could notice small differences comparing
them with the Nu Funnels.
> Nev
Mervin
Neo Zeon
> #2- When I click on the pics, all I get is the page source code. I don't
> know if that just me.
I am very sorry for that. I received positive feedback from many people and
nobody reported similar problems. Please note that each photo is 90 to 100
kb so the downloading time could be up to 1 minute if you use 56k modem
(like me). I suggest you to rertry and be patient.
Thank you
Andrea
Unknown
wrote:
>
>> #2- When I click on the pics, all I get is the page source code. I don't
>> know if that just me.
>
>I am very sorry for that. I received positive feedback from many people and
>nobody reported similar problems. Please note that each photo is 90 to 100
>kb so the downloading time could be up to 1 minute if you use 56k modem
>(like me). I suggest you to rertry and be patient.
I complaint! I said mozilla can't render it. The problem is the
extension of the page. Change it to html and it won't show up as page
source code.
There's just no reason to use a dwt extension when the content is just
plain old html.
Nev
Heavyarms
"Neo Zeon" <neo...@libero.it> wrote in message
news:gKKGa.89107$Ny5.2...@twister2.libero.it...
Stuff looks great. I can't believe you handbrushed all of that. Gives me
hope (since I handbrush, as well.)
Neo Zeon
please note that I extensively use Dreamweaver, that means that I don't know
the program code. It could be a very difficult task to me to make that kind
of change.
Neo
--
Neo Zeon Gundam modeling website:
http://members.xoom.virgilio.it/neozeonforge/index.htm
<Nevin Wong> ha scritto nel messaggio
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Unknown
wrote:
>Next time I will upload a page I will try to use the extension html. But
>please note that I extensively use Dreamweaver, that means that I don't know
>the program code. It could be a very difficult task to me to make that kind
>of change.
Doesn't matter whether you know how to program or not. When you create
a new page, create a page that ends in .html instead of .dwt.
You can simply rename the page right now, and change the link in
DreamWeaver. Should be easy, then everything will work.
I haven't used DreamWeaver since I quit my last job... that was 3
years ago.
Nev
jtt
So, you've airbrushed the base color, and handbrushed
the weathering and shadowing?
Any tips or guide you have for doing the shadowing?
I want to start doing shadowing, but need some pointers.
Is there any reason why not use airbrush for shadowing
as well? I've always thought shadowing is done with
airbrush.
Thanks
Neo Zeon
This is because I handpainted soldiers figures(1/35 + 54mm + 28 mm) for
about ten years and when I started painting Gundam simply transferred my
technique on mechas.
Regarding my technique I "copy and paste" the answer I wrote yesterday
answering privately to another modeler that fits perfectly:
I suggest you NOT to paint your models with an acrylic basecoat if it is not
necessary,but to paint with oils directly on plastics (Yes). I put a 50-50
mix of black + brown oil on all the panel lines and crevasses to make
evident dirty areas and recesses and enlight edges.Use a large brush to
roughly( and very unprecisely) put the paint. Please don't let panic win you
at this stage, it is a terrific view to see your kit completely devastated
by that sticky dirt.Then save the model using cotton demakeup discs(YES !)
to remove excess oil so that it will deposit in the panel lines and recesses
and leaving a minimal layer of oily,dirty effect on the whole model.Use
again brush to enrich muddy areas "pulling away" the color and creating
those marvelous shades and again use lighter tones to create points of
enlightment. It's a fantastic and rewarding technique.
Let me know ;-)
Neo Zeon Gundam modeling website:
http://members.xoom.virgilio.it/neozeonforge/index.htm
"jtt" <j...@none.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
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jtt
But some questions...
If the base color is oil, and the shadowing color is oil,
then when you remove excess shadowing color (black and brown)
it would remove the base color too.
Unless, you're saying to use the cotton discs before
the black and brown is dried.
Another question is do you need to put anything
on the cotton discs, or just dry cotton discs will do?
And also, I've always used acrylics. I guess they are easier
for starters like me. But what are the advantages for oils?
I've heard that some people use oils for base color and then
acrylics for shadowing and black lines such that if messed up
the black lines it can be removed without removing the base
color. But you use oil for both.
Thanks so much.
I hope one day I can paint models like yours ; )
"Neo Zeon" <neo...@libero.it> wrote in message
news:Yw1Ia.99494$Ny5.2...@twister2.libero.it...
Thomas Hamann
blank staring at the equally blank sky, thought:
>Next time I will upload a page I will try to use the extension html. But
>please note that I extensively use Dreamweaver, that means that I don't know
>the program code. It could be a very difficult task to me to make that kind
>of change.
>
(in Windows Explorer or some other program that shows all files and
directories...), wait a bit, and click on the file again.
A box will appear around the file name, and you'll be able to edit it.
Remove the extension and replace it with .htm . Press the Enter key.
Otherwise, there should be a 'rename' function in your favourite file
managing program. Just select the file, go to the appropriate menu,
and select 'rename'. Type in the new filename.
The only problem is that you'll have to change the filenames in the
HTML source code, too. You can open the pages with notepad to see the
source, and then you can edit the source.
Or, perhaps, you should just buy a good book about HTML (get one that
explains the basics AND the more complicated bits; choose a book that
explains about HTML 4). HTML is pretty easy once you know how to use
it.
Thomas Hamann
--
Website: http://evilskylark.tripod.com/
Rec.Arts.Anime.Models Posting Policies: http://evilskylark.tripod.com/faqs.htm
"...you ain't no different than Ben Laden..." - The emminent Dr. J ranting about me on alt.toys.transformers.
John McGrail
But I have read quite a lot of AFV and airplane weathering articles that
use oils ...
In article <B78Ia.256903$Vi5.6...@news1.calgary.shaw.ca>, jtt wrote:
> Thanks for you advice. I will definately try it out.
> But some questions...
>
> If the base color is oil, and the shadowing color is oil,
> then when you remove excess shadowing color (black and brown)
> it would remove the base color too.
If you wait for the base to completely dry (ie several days to a week)
before applying the shadowing color, will wiping the excess wash still
remove the base color? Probably not if you're careful and don't use thinner
on the cotton swabs. A coat of an appropriate clear applied before the
shadowing will likely help protect the base color.
> Unless, you're saying to use the cotton discs before
> the black and brown is dried.
Yup, if you're shading panel lines only, you defintely want to clean the
shadow color off the high surfaces before it dries. If you're looking for
a dirty panel look, you probably want to go easy on the wiping to leave
some paint on the panels.
>
> And also, I've always used acrylics. I guess they are easier
> for starters like me. But what are the advantages for oils?
Oils take a lot longer to dry than acrylics, making them easier to
work with when you do "wet" effects like grease stains.
Acrylics on oils lets you wipe off the acrylic w/ water (which doesn't
affect the oils) and do it again.
For washing acrylics on top of an acrylic base, a coat of Future will
protect the base coat and let you wipe the wash layer with water similar
to acrylics on oils. Just don't use Windex to clean the wash! It contains
ammonia which eats Future.
--
rat...@skaterat.net
food should be removed to reply
Neo Zeon
> If the base color is oil, and the shadowing color is oil,
No,no,no!
I paint shadows directly on plastics. No base coat at all. I put directly on
plastics the mixture of brown+black and then I wipe away excess.
In the case I want to make a variant coloration differing from the color of
plastics then I paint a base coat with acrylics, then I spray a protective
layer of matt transparent and then I use oils for shades. And later for
lights.
> Another question is do you need to put anything
> on the cotton discs, or just dry cotton discs will do?
No, wipe away oils with cotton.That's all.
>But what are the advantages for oils?
Oils dry in about a week!!!!that means that they are perfect to create
excellent shades-nuances. You have total control on them, on the contrary
they are not good to cover surfaces and they should not be used as base
coat.Acrylics dry immediately and have excellent covering capabilities, it
implies that you may paint very good nuances only if you are a real master!
Let us know ;-)
--
jtt
> Oils dry in about a week!!!!that means that they are perfect to create
> excellent shades-nuances. You have total control on them, on the contrary
> they are not good to cover surfaces and they should not be used as base
> coat.Acrylics dry immediately and have excellent covering capabilities, it
> implies that you may paint very good nuances only if you are a real
master!
> Let us know ;-)
>
Ok, Thanks again.
The models I have are all HG 1/100, so most of the time the platic color
doesn't match the gundam color perfectly. So far I've paint the gundam
with acrylics. And now I like to move to more advance shadowing.
Thanks ; )
jtt
> For washing acrylics on top of an acrylic base, a coat of Future will
> protect the base coat and let you wipe the wash layer with water similar
> to acrylics on oils. Just don't use Windex to clean the wash! It
contains
> ammonia which eats Future.
>
Thanks for your advice.
what is Future? is it the same as a clear top coat?
I think I would like to stick with acrylics because oils I hear is harder to
control and can mess up (contaminate) very easily if have water residue
Thanks ; )
Stefan Paul
Since i have been wondering. how you guys do these weathering..
I like to know what the Oils is??
Is it the same like oil painting? or more Oil pastels.???
Whell i'm trying to find a nice way to start..and have already begun to ask
about airbrush guns..
Pretty expensive.. from 110 euro to..220 euro..
whell and then not to say about the paint... thinner..etc..
stefan.
"jtt" <j...@none.com> schreef in bericht
news:LVnIa.236486$3C2.6...@news3.calgary.shaw.ca...
Stefan Paul
http://www.pearlpaint.com/paints.html
or
these?
http://www.pearlpaint.com/drawing-and-pastels.html
thnx..
stefan.
"Stefan Paul" <s.tedj...@hccnet.nl> schreef in bericht
news:bctcha$akc$1...@news.hccnet.nl...
John McGrail
>
> what is Future? is it the same as a clear top coat?
It's an acrylic floor polish for no wax floors - It's a glossy clear coat
straight out of the bottle. It can be mixed with (for example) Tamiya
flat base to get dull and semi-gloss coats. It can be brushed on or
spray painted without thinning. It can be mixed with things like food
coloring to get clear/tinted colors. It can help with scratches in clear
parts. It'll wash your car if you buy it chocolates.
More info:
http://www.ninfinger.org/~sven/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.17.html#q18
A google search on R.M.S will also produce copious amounts of info
about the stuff.
jtt
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/332271.asp
i'm not saying to buy it here. i'm sure you can find
it in local stores. another brandname is Gunze Sangyo.
these are hobby paints for plastic models. the ones
you find in art stores might not be good for plastics.
http://www.currys.com/airbrush/prodviewer.asp?catID=1
http://www.currys.com/airbrush/prodviewer.asp?catID=2
these 2 pages will give you better understanding on
what airbrush and compressor you can choose from.
and yes, it will be expensive as you buy more and more
acessories. you can start with hand brushing with
acrylic paints first and see if you like. that's the cheapest
for starters. if you find it that you do like what you
are doing, (like myself) you can invest more and buy
airbrush and compressors. If you are as skilled as
Neo Zeon or other experts, you can hand brush all the way ; )
hope that helps
EGMcCann
"Stefan Paul" <s.tedj...@hccnet.nl> wrote in message
news:bctcha$akc$1...@news.hccnet.nl...
> i got a few questions of my own to..
> Since i have been wondering. how you guys do these weathering..
> I like to know what the Oils is??
>
> Is it the same like oil painting? or more Oil pastels.???
Typically...
1. Chalk pastels for "dusty" weathering
2. Artist's oils for panel washes, etc. Expesive, but you only use a little
(depending on technique) at a time,so they last.
Neo Zeon
painters use:
http://www.pearlpaint.com/paints-oils.html
Pastels are used too, but in the very final stage, they are the final touch
: they are reduced to dust and applied directly with a brush (no water or
thinner) in the crevasses to create rust effect and similars:
http://www.pearlpaint.com/drawing-and-pastels-oil-pastels.html
--
Neo Zeon Forge - my Gundam modeling website:
http://members.xoom.virgilio.it/neozeonforge/index.htm
"Stefan Paul" <s.tedj...@hccnet.nl> ha scritto nel messaggio
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