-spork!
>What sort of paints people find
>work best for them (I'm leaning towards acrylics but the most common
>ones I've come across are Tamiya, which I find people feel pretty much
>universally suck for hand painting)
I dunno where people get that idea. I started painting with Tamiya
acrylics, and have finished brush-painted jobs that people can't believe
it wasn't airbrushed. It has to be thinned, airbrush or paint brush.
- WK
Normally, it is true that they suck for hand-brushing.
However, I've found that adding some Liquitex Slow-Dri acrylic retarder to the paint immensely
improves the hand-brushing quality.
The Liquitex Slow-Dri can be found at any arts & crafts store, like A.C. Moore, Michaels, etc..
It usually comes in 2 sizes: a smallish 2oz bottle, and a larger bottle around 4-8 ounces.
Don't add more than 25% per volume, however, as the paint may not fully dry.
10-20 drops per Tamiya bottle should be enough.
-Giuliano
--
Giuliano Moschini
Mail: giul...@moschini.org
Model Page: http://www.moschini.org/models
"spork!" <venomst...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:nZ0l6.201423$Pm2.3...@news20.bellglobal.com...
Hmm. Thanks for your advice (and Giuliano as well). I guess I should give
them a test run and see how they work for me...
-spork!
>Hmm. Thanks for your advice (and Giuliano as well). I guess I should
>give them a test run and see how they work for me...
Practice on some sheet styrene, available at any good hobby store. Primer
it (or not) and vary the thinner or retarder for best results.
You need good quality brushes too. The thinner the bristles, the better,
since the brush will also affect the strokes and what gets left behind when
you paint.
- WK
Nick Wesson
> >What sort of paints people find
> >work best for them (I'm leaning towards acrylics but the most common
> >ones I've come across are Tamiya, which I find people feel pretty much
> >universally suck for hand painting)
>
> I dunno where people get that idea. I started painting with Tamiya
> acrylics, and have finished brush-painted jobs that people can't believe
> it wasn't airbrushed. It has to be thinned, airbrush or paint brush.
People also claim that you can't blend acrylics because they dry too
fast, but I've managed to do it using a brush dipped in alcohol. It
takes a little more work, but I managed to do a pretty good job on the
faces for the Robocop and Han Solo vinyl figures I built for a friend,
not to mention some neat shading & texturing effects on a Boba Fett.
Here the Slow-Dri acrylic retarder would be even more useful..
I've left paint on a palette, with the retarder, and it was still wet after
15-20 minutes.
--
Giuliano Moschini
Mail: Giul...@Moschini.org
Model Page: http://www.moschini.org/models
Since you've painted lead miniatures before, I would recommend acrylic
paints made for these miniatures, such as Citadel or Ral Partha.
They're easy to control in terms of paint consistency, and more forgiving in
terms of leaving brushstroke marks.
Just remember to paint in even coats.
I can't stress that enough.
Once you're mastered them, move on to another medium.
Rude69