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Hand painting?

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spork!

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Feb 21, 2001, 11:55:47 PM2/21/01
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Can I get some tips on painting resin kit figures by hand? I'm pretty much a
beginner (some injection kits and lead miniatures 15 years ago, not really
the same thing at all) and I'm not really ready to invest in the cash for an
airbrush set up yet. What sort of paints people find work best for them (I'm
leaning towards acrylics but the most common ones I've come across are
Tamiya, which I find people feel pretty much universally suck for hand
painting), pitfalls to avoid, useful pointers and so on are what I'm looking
for. Any help would be appreciated.

-spork!


WolfKeeper

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Feb 22, 2001, 12:04:34 AM2/22/01
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"spork!" <venomst...@hotmail.com> wrote in
<nZ0l6.201423$Pm2.3...@news20.bellglobal.com>:

>What sort of paints people find
>work best for them (I'm leaning towards acrylics but the most common
>ones I've come across are Tamiya, which I find people feel pretty much
>universally suck for hand painting)

I dunno where people get that idea. I started painting with Tamiya
acrylics, and have finished brush-painted jobs that people can't believe
it wasn't airbrushed. It has to be thinned, airbrush or paint brush.

- WK

Giuliano Moschini

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Feb 22, 2001, 12:06:45 AM2/22/01
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I too use Tamiya acrylics a lot.

Normally, it is true that they suck for hand-brushing.

However, I've found that adding some Liquitex Slow-Dri acrylic retarder to the paint immensely
improves the hand-brushing quality.

The Liquitex Slow-Dri can be found at any arts & crafts store, like A.C. Moore, Michaels, etc..

It usually comes in 2 sizes: a smallish 2oz bottle, and a larger bottle around 4-8 ounces.

Don't add more than 25% per volume, however, as the paint may not fully dry.

10-20 drops per Tamiya bottle should be enough.

-Giuliano


--
Giuliano Moschini
Mail: giul...@moschini.org
Model Page: http://www.moschini.org/models


"spork!" <venomst...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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spork!

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Feb 22, 2001, 12:35:42 AM2/22/01
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"WolfKeeper" <wolfke...@mindspringSPAM.PLEASE.COM> wrote in message
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Hmm. Thanks for your advice (and Giuliano as well). I guess I should give
them a test run and see how they work for me...

-spork!


WolfKeeper

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Feb 22, 2001, 12:46:14 AM2/22/01
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"spork!" <venomst...@hotmail.com> wrote in
<Oy1l6.201978$Pm2.3...@news20.bellglobal.com>:

>Hmm. Thanks for your advice (and Giuliano as well). I guess I should
>give them a test run and see how they work for me...

Practice on some sheet styrene, available at any good hobby store. Primer
it (or not) and vary the thinner or retarder for best results.

You need good quality brushes too. The thinner the bristles, the better,
since the brush will also affect the strokes and what gets left behind when
you paint.

- WK

Nick Wesson

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Feb 22, 2001, 12:00:52 PM2/22/01
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In my experience, you must prime resin for the paint to stick. Just find a
neutral colour of spray paint and blast away. I do my handpainting with testors
water soluable acrylics, which aren't bad but aren't great. One secret of
handpainting is to stir the paint a lot with a tooth pick or a piece of sprue.

Nick Wesson

Wayne C. Morris

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Feb 23, 2001, 12:52:04 AM2/23/01
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In article <Xns904FEACE6FA0Cwo...@24.2.192.37>,
wolfke...@mindspringSPAM.PLEASE.COM (WolfKeeper) wrote:

> >What sort of paints people find
> >work best for them (I'm leaning towards acrylics but the most common
> >ones I've come across are Tamiya, which I find people feel pretty much
> >universally suck for hand painting)
>
> I dunno where people get that idea. I started painting with Tamiya
> acrylics, and have finished brush-painted jobs that people can't believe
> it wasn't airbrushed. It has to be thinned, airbrush or paint brush.

People also claim that you can't blend acrylics because they dry too
fast, but I've managed to do it using a brush dipped in alcohol. It
takes a little more work, but I managed to do a pretty good job on the
faces for the Robocop and Han Solo vinyl figures I built for a friend,
not to mention some neat shading & texturing effects on a Boba Fett.

Giuliano Moschini

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Feb 23, 2001, 9:12:01 AM2/23/01
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>===== Original Message From "Wayne C. Morris" <nos...@this.is.invalid> =====

Here the Slow-Dri acrylic retarder would be even more useful..

I've left paint on a palette, with the retarder, and it was still wet after
15-20 minutes.

--
Giuliano Moschini
Mail: Giul...@Moschini.org
Model Page: http://www.moschini.org/models

Rude69

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Feb 23, 2001, 3:14:54 PM2/23/01
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"spork!" <venomst...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:nZ0l6.201423$Pm2.3...@news20.bellglobal.com...
> Can I get some tips on painting resin kit figures by hand? I'm pretty much
a
> beginner (some injection kits and lead miniatures 15 years ago, not really
> the same thing at all) and I'm not really ready to invest in the cash for
an
> airbrush set up yet.

Since you've painted lead miniatures before, I would recommend acrylic
paints made for these miniatures, such as Citadel or Ral Partha.
They're easy to control in terms of paint consistency, and more forgiving in
terms of leaving brushstroke marks.
Just remember to paint in even coats.
I can't stress that enough.
Once you're mastered them, move on to another medium.

Rude69

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