The other thread - Equipment!
EGMcCann
What do you use? As in preferences...
For me, I've got:
Sprue cutters (can't live without 'em,)
The ever-present pair of Xacto knives, #11 or scalpel blades
Flexi-files, various grits
Liquid cement of various forms (no tubes, thanks.)
Aztek 470 airbrush
Set of good (no-Nylon-thanks) brushes - don't recall if we're looking at
sable, camel hair, etc...
Paints:
Gunze aqueous
ModelMaster Acryl
Pollyscale
A *few* Aeromaster Warbird Colors (I miss this line...)
A couple Tamiya acrylics
SNJ
MM Metalizer
Thomas Hamann
the web:
>Specifically, modeling equipment.
>
>What do you use? As in preferences...
>Sprue cutters (can't live without 'em,)
Got 'em.
>The ever-present pair of Xacto knives, #11 or scalpel blades
The equivalent of those in a country where I've never actually seen
X-Acto branded knives...
>Liquid cement of various forms (no tubes, thanks.)
Liquid cement in a bottle with a very fine nozzle, thus making
applying it easy.
Set of good brushes, mostly size 2 and 3.
>
>Paints:
some Revell oil paints
lots of Humbrol oil paints, and Tamiya acrylics.
--
Thomas Hamann's Website: http://www.geocities.com/hamann_td
"...you ain't no different than Ben Laden..." - The emminent Dr. J ranting about me on alt.toys.transformers.
GundamFan1138
Paints:
* Mr. Color - 10 or so bottles - waiting for Giuliano's order
* Tamiya Acrylics - 30 or so bottles - this is going the way of the buffalo
soon
* Modelmaster Acrylics - This stuff is total crap - never can get it
thinned right
* Testors Acryls - This stuff is crap too
* Mr. Surfacer 1000 (bottle, gray)
* Mr. Thinner
* Alcohol - acrylic thinner
* Durex Clearcoat - Matt - for most kits
* Durex Clearcoat - Gloss - before decals
* Creatix Clearcoat - Semigloss - don't know why I have this - used it once
on a Zaku II F2 and didn't like the results
* Plasticoat - Ancient Ruins Texture Paint for Dioramas - this stuff is
fantastic for dioramas
* Acrylic Texture Paint - Sand color - fantastic stuff
Others:
* Iwata HP-C Airbrush with .03 MM needle
* Iwata Smartjet Compressor
* Various sable brushes
* Tamiya Putty
* Model Cement - tubes
* Superglue
* 3M sponge sanding pads - medium and fine - fantastic invention
* Various superfine sanding films
* Nail files
* Dry Pastels
* 3M Masking Tape
* 3M Masking tape for models (don't know thickness)
* 3M Scotch tape
* 3M 8210 Filter/Face Masks for painting
* Phillips Screwdriver for MG screws
* Tweezers - for decals when I feel like using them or screwing them up
royally
* Q-Tips
* Paper Towels
* Bottle of water
* Windex
* Empty Tamiya paint jars from Giuliano's shop - these are a lifesaver
sometimes!
* Exacto Knife with #11 Blades
* Skewer Sticks - For attaching parts to while painting
* Scissors - useful from time to time
* Wood Cutting Board and plastic cutting board - for cutting tape, shaving,
etc.
* CelluClay II - For Dioramas
* Wiremesh from Michaels - For Dioramas
* Foamboard from Michals - For Dioramas
* Sony Cybershot 3.2 MP Camera for photos
* White Posterboards for picture backgrounds
--
Rob - www.dunesea.com
"EGMcCann" <egmc...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b2tqt0$1fr208$1...@ID-160738.news.dfncis.de...
George Caswell
Here are some of my favorites:
jeweler's metric caliper, precision of .1mm (My previous caliper wasn't
precise beyond 1mm, and its accuracy was off by about .5mm)
chisels (1mm, 5mm)
razor saws (large and small)
straight (perpendicular) edge knife - better than angled knives for cutting
perpendicular ends for strip styrene.
Pin vise and drill bit set (between 3mm and #80 super-small drill bit)
Steel sewing pins (handy for all sorts of things, in conjunction with the .5mm
drill bit)
Resin casting set
Files (needle files, plus I have one of those little dental files)
Planning to get:
Mitre sander and/or mitre cutter
"Replicutter" rectangle measuring/cutting guide
Contour gauge
Painting gear:
Paasche VL
second-hand spray booth and home-made window widget
Campbell Hausfeld compressor
---GEC
Projects page: http://home.attbi.com/~sieg_haro/
(M-x depeche-mode)
"I am but the humble student, who hopes one day to snatch the resin-cast
pebble from the master's fully articulated hand."
Heavyarms
"EGMcCann" <egmc...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b2tqt0$1fr208$1...@ID-160738.news.dfncis.de...
>
> What do you use? As in preferences...
>
Here's my basic setup when putting a kit together.
1. finger nail clippers. (I find they are easier to manuever in and out of
sprues, and I can control the pressure, if the plastic is particularly
brittle, where it might mar the surface)
2. Xacto knife (sharpened prior to begining a new kit. The blade I
primarily use is one of the 45 degree angle blades. I think this one is the
most versatile, you can use the standard slicing motion to trim up flash and
the nubs from a sprue, and you can also use a scraping motion to trim the
"nubs" to be flush with the surface.)
3. finger nail file. The brand I prefer is called Fing'rs. It has a grey
"buffing" surface on one side, and a pink and white sanding surface on the
other, each color a different grit. I like it because you get two different
sizes in a pack, and if you use all three surfaces, you non-painters can
sand a model's surface down to a mirror like shine.
4. Testor's Liquid Plastic Cement. The little triangular bottle with an
applicator. One complaint, they used to make these with a metal applicator,
now it comes with a crappy plastic applicator. It gets gunky, and I hate
it.
5. Foam make-up wedge. I think chicks use this to put "base" or "pankcake"
make-up on. I use it, on RARE occasions, to apply decals. I haven't put a
decal on a Gundam model in over a year, though.
That's what I go into battle with. When it is built, and it is time to make
it look purty.
1. Testors Model Master Acryls. For painting large areas. I have not/will
not move into the world of airbrushing, and this paint, I have found, is the
easiest to use when hand brushing. The only problem with this paint is that
if the surface you are painting is REALLY different from the color you are
painting (i.e. the white trim on the Wing Gundam's sheild, the green plastic
of the HG Zeta and ZZ) it will take FOREVER to coat it without priming
first.
2. Testors Enamels 1/4 oz. bottles. For painting in details. I use the
small bottles, because when I paint in the "trim" like the stripes on a
H-Arms Custom, or the purple on the Mercurius, I don't typically re-use that
color on another model.
3. Tamiya Acryl. The first time I used this was on a Zaku III. It dried
too fast for me to be comfortable brushing it on. But it self-levels really
well and after two coats, you can't really see any brush strokes. Also,
goes on well without priming the surface. Smells nice, really large bottle
to get your brush in and out of. The cap is also designed so that you don't
get paint under the lid when you shake it up.
4. Gunze Sangyo Aqueous. Used this once. It was a nightmare. It dries
way too fast for me, left horrible brush strokes, and I am pretty good at
hand brushing.
5. Various pastel chalks for weathering. I had so many old brushes around,
I though I would cut one up and try pastel chalk one day. I prefer it to
using washes, because you can see the "grit" in the dirty areas better.
Looks really good on aircraft kits.
6. The end all be all of modeling supplies, Future Floor Wax. I have said
it before and I'll say it again, if they ever find a cure for cancer, Future
is going to be involved in some way. My favorite technique for this is to
apply a flat finish base coat, and hand brush Future over it. It gives it a
nice "gloss-but-not-really" finish that I really like. Also, when applied
over a gloss paint, it just makes it that much more glossy. Makes the paint
look almost wet.
Other clutter found in and around my desk
-One of those magnifying-glass-with-alligator-clips-on-a-base-thingys. I
never use the magnifying glass, but I use the alligator clips all the time
-Empty Paremsan cheese shaker. I use this to store my brushes in.
-Tamiya masking tape. 1/2 cm and 1 cm sizes. Really handy, but you have to
be extra careful that you get the edge you are using to mask all the way
down, or paint will bleed under it.
-Auto body trim tape. This stuff is great, you can bend it and apply a
smooth mask around curves, comes off easily, and won't pull up paint. Only
problem is that the good kind is expensive.
-Testors decal solvent. Works well, hides decal edges.
-box of toothpicks. Handy for stirring paint, and applying paint to small
areas.
-Empty baby wipes containers. I use these to keep my pens for panel lines
in, and also to store Gundam weapons when not issued to a MS.
-Electrician's tape. I have a super-secret technique for tightening up
loose joints with this.
-Desk Lamp. Ya gotta be able to see.
-Steel BB's and plastic beads. Steel BB's as an agitator in Enamel paint
bottles (because BBs are heavy and enamel paint is thick), plastic beads for
shaking up acryls (because BBs will rust in most acrylic paint.)
-anything else I think might be useful.
Sure, it may be a lot of crap, but I have a big desk to put it in.
George Caswell
> Planning to get:
>
> Mitre sander and/or mitre cutter
> "Replicutter" rectangle measuring/cutting guide
> Contour gauge
>
Oh yeah! Lest I forget, also planning to get photo-etch supplies. :)
Stephen Whaley
these are so much better and they can chop through brass rod.
Needle file set - absolutely invaluable.
Very sharp Xacto-type knife - which I try not to stick into my fingers too
often.
Liquid cement, thick stuff in tubes and thin stuff in bottles with a brush.
Loctite superglue - it's not the best but I can't get anything else.
Big green A3 cutting mat - so I don't mess up the tabletop.
Screwdriver - for screwing in the screws that are so common in MG kits
theseadays.
Pin vise - for drilling holes
Tupperware boxes, shoe boxes, kit boxes, collapsible plastic boxes, the
spare room - for storing kits in.
Large green recycled plastic bin - for kit bits and other useful bits and
pieces.
My back garden - for keeping the aforementioned green bin in and spraying
things with aerosol cans.
Aztek something-or-other airbrush.
SimAir compressor.
A big plastic box which does as a spray booth.
Wooden kebab skewers - perfect for putting kit parts on to paint them.
Milk bottles - for putting kebab skewers in when I'm mixing paint/changing
nozzles/off raiding the fridge/fiddling with stuff.
Paint!
Tamiya acrylics, mostly, thinned with Methylated Spirits.
Humbrol enamels, thinned with White Spirit.
Liquitex acrylics. I have lots of these but I never use them...
Hycote automotive Grey Primer and Matt Black, in aerosol cans - Hycote car
paints in cans is amazing stuff!
Citadel Miniatures(the Warhammer people) clear varnish in an aerosol can
-the only reason I will go into one of their scary shops is for this stuff.
Zubenelakrab
in article b2tqt0$1fr208$1...@ID-160738.news.dfncis.de, EGMcCann at
egmc...@hotmail.com wrote on 2/18/03 5:35 PM:
Spooky Donkey
knife, a nail file, and some Gundam markers and an old sock for painting.
Geez.
So what is the most important thing I don't have?
--
"My name is Ozymandias, king of kings:
Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"
- from "Ozymandias", Percy Bysshe Shelley
"I like shorts. They're comfy and easy to wear." -Pokemon
"EGMcCann" <egmc...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b2tqt0$1fr208$1...@ID-160738.news.dfncis.de...
bfra...@jetnet.ab.ca
> I'm really feeling out of my depth here. I just use a well-sharpened pocket
> knife, a nail file, and some Gundam markers and an old sock for painting.
> Geez.
>
> So what is the most important thing I don't have?
Use a CLEAN old sock. :)
Spooky Donkey
I just got a new old sock.
--
"My name is Ozymandias, king of kings:
Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"
- from "Ozymandias", Percy Bysshe Shelley
"I like shorts. They're comfy and easy to wear." -Pokemon
<bfra...@jetnet.ab.ca> wrote in message
news:3E52D1D3...@jetnet.ab.ca...
EGMcCann
"Heavyarms" <jent...@att.nospam.net> wrote in message
news:6ox4a.59375$zF6.4...@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> 3. finger nail file. The brand I prefer is called Fing'rs. It has a
grey
> "buffing" surface on one side, and a pink and white sanding surface on the
> other, each color a different grit. I like it because you get two
different
> sizes in a pack, and if you use all three surfaces, you non-painters can
> sand a model's surface down to a mirror like shine.
Yep... the sign of a true modeler - you'll find him in the makeup
accessories. <g>
> 4. Testor's Liquid Plastic Cement. The little triangular bottle with an
> applicator. One complaint, they used to make these with a metal
applicator,
> now it comes with a crappy plastic applicator. It gets gunky, and I hate
> it.
I've got both, actually. The plastic applicator's a bit easier to clean with
stuff "right to hand." The metal tube? Find a twist-tie and strip the paper
/ plastic off of it. Fits well. Plus it gives nice 1/48 pitot tube / .30-cal
MG barrels when the glue's gone. <g> If you *really* like the metal
applicator, look for the black Model Master brand (same stuff, different
label on the package.) I think they still have them there.
> 5. Various pastel chalks for weathering. I had so many old brushes
around,
> I though I would cut one up and try pastel chalk one day. I prefer it to
> using washes, because you can see the "grit" in the dirty areas better.
> Looks really good on aircraft kits.
Can't believe I forgot this one. <g> Yep, I've got a set of greys and a set
of brown/reds. Wonderful for making exhaust stain and "mud" (seriously -
grind up some reddish-brown, tan, etc. and put in water... makes great mud.)
> 6. The end all be all of modeling supplies, Future Floor Wax. I have
said
> it before and I'll say it again, if they ever find a cure for cancer,
Future
> is going to be involved in some way.
LOL! Though it's probably true...
> -Tamiya masking tape. 1/2 cm and 1 cm sizes. Really handy, but you have
to
> be extra careful that you get the edge you are using to mask all the way
> down, or paint will bleed under it.
Wonderful stuff, and works around curves nicely. As far as bleeding paint -
well, use Future again. Spray over the top, then paint. The future will seal
the edge.
> -Testors decal solvent. Works well, hides decal edges.
Another I forgot. And I've got so much! Solvaset, Microsol/Microset...
> -box of toothpicks. Handy for stirring paint, and applying paint to small
> areas.
... and scraping paint off small areas...
> -Steel BB's and plastic beads. Steel BB's as an agitator in Enamel paint
> bottles (because BBs are heavy and enamel paint is thick), plastic beads
for
> shaking up acryls (because BBs will rust in most acrylic paint.)
(nodding) And from the aircraft side, lead weights - though I have yet to
find a need for 'em in a Gundam. <g>
-Eric
EGMcCann
"Spooky Donkey" <jgr...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:foz4a.153048$2H6.2917@sccrnsc04...
> I'm really feeling out of my depth here. I just use a well-sharpened
> knife, a nail file, and some Gundam markers and an old sock for painting.
> Geez.
>
> So what is the most important thing I don't have?
Most important... hmm.... Good sandpaper/sanding sticks, putty.... Of
course, it depends on how insane on equipment you want to go. Don't forget,
over 100 years ago (sheesh, longer...) prisoners of war built some
*incredible* ship models with a knife and scrap wood....
Heavyarms
>
> "Heavyarms" <jent...@att.nospam.net> wrote in message
> news:6ox4a.59375$zF6.4...@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > 3. finger nail file. The brand I prefer is called Fing'rs. It has a
> grey
> > "buffing" surface on one side, and a pink and white sanding surface on
the
> > other, each color a different grit. I like it because you get two
> different
> > sizes in a pack, and if you use all three surfaces, you non-painters can
> > sand a model's surface down to a mirror like shine.
>
> Yep... the sign of a true modeler - you'll find him in the makeup
> accessories. <g>
>
Don't make fun. I just got to the point where I feel comfortable going in
there ;-)
> > 4. Testor's Liquid Plastic Cement. The little triangular bottle with
an
> > applicator. One complaint, they used to make these with a metal
> applicator,
> > now it comes with a crappy plastic applicator. It gets gunky, and I
hate
> > it.
>
> I've got both, actually. The plastic applicator's a bit easier to clean
with
> stuff "right to hand." The metal tube? Find a twist-tie and strip the
paper
> / plastic off of it. Fits well. Plus it gives nice 1/48 pitot tube /
.30-cal
> MG barrels when the glue's gone. <g> If you *really* like the metal
> applicator, look for the black Model Master brand (same stuff, different
> label on the package.) I think they still have them there.
>
That's what I have. From what I understand, Testor's uses plastic as
opposed to metal applicators now, due to production costs.
Oh, yeah, perfect for nose weights too. I had to use them in a 1/48 scale
A-10 kit, so I wouldn't have to use the stupid little clear plastic pole to
keep it from sitting on its tail. From what I understand, all A-10 kits
suffer this problem, since the real A-10 has all that weight from the GAU-8
cannon in its nose. I haven't needed them as a weight in Gundam kits, but I
did have to used them on a Patlabor kit. The stupid rubber used on the legs
is too stiff and makes the legs spread apart (Patlabor fans know what I am
talking about) So I loaded the feet down with BB's to increase the weight,
therefore making them more resistant to the "spreading force" of the rubber.
>
>
> -Eric
>
>
EGMcCann
> > Yep... the sign of a true modeler - you'll find him in the makeup
> > accessories. <g>
> >
>
> Don't make fun. I just got to the point where I feel comfortable going in
> there ;-)
Who said I was making fun? <g>
> > > -Steel BB's and plastic beads. Steel BB's as an agitator in Enamel
> paint
> > > bottles (because BBs are heavy and enamel paint is thick), plastic
beads
> > for
> > > shaking up acryls (because BBs will rust in most acrylic paint.)
> >
> > (nodding) And from the aircraft side, lead weights - though I have yet
to
> > find a need for 'em in a Gundam. <g>
>
> Oh, yeah, perfect for nose weights too. I had to use them in a 1/48 scale
...primarily what I use 'em for. Soft enough to be "molded" somewhat to fit
in odd areas. Of course, some of the newer Tamiya kits (F-84G) have steel
ball bearings (big'uns!) for the same purpose.... actually, so do some of
the older ones (A6M2-N Rufe.)
John Hwang
>Specifically, modeling equipment.
sprue cutter, wire cutters, and X-acto knives.
jeweler's files and dentist's scribe.
pin vise and Ryobi rotary tool.
liquid cement, rubberized CA ("IC-2000").
sets of red sable (and taklon) brushes.
Badger single-action internal-mix air brush.
Paints:
(old) Citadel (now "Coat D'Arms") acrylics.
Polly Scale/Floquil acrylics.
Badger acrylics.
random paints I don't use.
--
--- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
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