1. Is Acrylic paint harmful or toxic? Specifically Gunze Sangyo Hobby Color.
2. Can i use acrylic paint over a Mr. Color painted figure?
3. Which is better? Tamiya Acrylic or Gunze Hobby Color (only available)?
4. Can i use mr. color or hobby color on vinyl kits?
I had thought that since Mr. Surfacer is made with the same lacquer base as
Mr. Color, it would eat into Vinyl kits.
I thought only acrylic paints were a safe choice for vinyl kits.
Is there any trick to spraying Mr. Surfacer, so that it doesn't eat the
vinyl?
-Giuliano
"Rogue" <rog...@ihug.co.nz> wrote in message
news:9e04of$jaq$1...@lust.ihug.co.nz...
It's also worth noting that acrylic paints are water-based, and you
usually won't need anything besides water for thinning and cleaning up
acrylics.
It can be used to define many different types of paints, including BOTH the
Hobby Color AND Mr. Color line of paints.
Here's why:
First, let me explain what paints consist of:
A pigment, and a binding agent.
The pigments, in this case, are "acrylic", which is a form of plastic.
Yes, plastic! Very finely ground up bits of colored plastic.
The pigments form the color of the paint, and can be mixed to give the
illusion of a different color, much like a color inkjet printer does.
In order to get the pigments to stick to a surface, they must be surrounded
by a binding agent.
A binding agent is essentially "Glue", to bind the pigments to the surface
of the plastic.
Binding agents can be of a few varieties: water based, solvent based, or oil
based.
----------------------------------------------
Water based:
A water-based binding agent is usually termed as an "acrylic polymer
emulsion".
Essentially it's very much like Elmer's White Glue, or Future Floor Wax
(which is pure acrylic).
Gunze's Hobby Color are acrylics like this, known as an "aqueous acrylic",
or plastic (acrylic) pigments in a water-based binding agent.
----------------------------------------------
Solvent based:
Solvent-based paints are not water-based, and cannot be mixed with water.
They're more commonly known as Lacquer paints, which dry quickly to a very
hard and durable surface.
Gunze's Mr. Color is a lacquer paint, known as a "acrylic lacquer", and is
solvent based.
The solvents usually come in the form of Toluene, Xylene, Acetone, or any
other variants such as denatured alcohol (ethanol) or lacquer thinner.
All of which are very bad for your system, but the hazards can be avoided
with proper care - good ventilation and a respirator (filtered face mask)
are imperative.
----------------------------------------------
Oil based:
Oil based paints are pigments suspended in true oils, such as linseed or
castor oil, which dry when exposed to air.
They are thinned with a solvent such as turpentine, and can take a loooong
time to dry.
The drying process can be sped up by adding drying agents to the paint,
which consist of "metallic salts", which speed up the curing process.
Oil paints are most often found in regular artists paints, the kind you find
in tubes.
They're useful for doing washes on models, but not very useful as a main
paint because they can take DAYS to dry completely.
----------------------------------------------
The definitions:
All these definitions, such as "paint", "lacquer", etc, can be found online
at:
It has a TON of complex definitions, including lots of chemical names.
----------------------------------------------
As for your questions:
Answer #1:
Acrylic, being plastic, can be harmful to your lungs if you inhale it.
But the thing to be really concerned about is the binding agent, and
whatever fumes they may give off.
Water-based acrylics are pretty safe, and you probably don't have to worry
too much about fumes.
It is recommended to wear at least a paper face mask, as that will keep the
acrylic pigment from getting into your lungs.
Wear a paper face mask, keep a window open, and you should be safe enough
with the Hobby Color acrylics.
Solvent-based paints, such as lacquers or enamels (like Testors paints) are
more dangerous, being that they contain chemicals that are bad for your
system.
Chemicals that can cause brain damage, or even birth defects, over prolonged
periods of exposure.
For these paints, you really need to wear a respirator, and use PLENTY of
ventilation.
A respirator is a face mask that has special charcoal or carbon filters
attached to it.
The charcoal/carbon traps the solvent fumes, and prevents them from getting
into your system.
I cannot stress enough how important it is to wear a respirator and use
plenty of ventilation.
Badger Airbrush Co. has a good example of the difference between what a
paper dust mask and a respirator consist of:
http://www.badger-airbrush.com/accessor2.htm
Scroll down until you see the "Dust Mask" and "Double Cartridge Respirator".
You don't need to buy from Badger, however.
A hardware store such as Home Depot should carry both.
Answer #2:
Yes, you can use water-based acrylic paints on top of solvent-based
(lacquer) Mr. Color.
This is because the solvent in water-based paints is not strong enough to
dissolve the lacquer paint below it.
The reverse is not true, however.
Using lacquer-based Mr. Color on top of a water-based acrylic will not work,
as the lacquer paint will eat into the acrylic paint.
Answer #3:
I would believe the Gunze Hobby Color acrylics to be better than Tamiya
acrylics.
Apparently Tamiya Acrylics are not true acrylics, in that the pigment is
latex (rubber) based, and is softer and less durable than other acrylics.
They are also known for having bad hand-brushing properties, but they seem
to airbrush okay.
I used to use Tamiya Acrylics a lot - good colors, but they're a pain to
deal with.
I'm switching over to Gunze's Mr. Color lacquers.
As for Answer #4.. I believe that's been answered already.
Acrylics are typically the better choice for vinyl kits, but you can use
lacquer paints if you use caution.
-Giuliano
--
Giuliano Moschini
Mail: giul...@moschini.org
Model Page: http://www.moschini.org/models/
RAAM Faq: http://www.moschini.org/raam/
Moschini's Modelshop: http://www.moschini.org/modelshop/
-Your source for Mr. Color!
<Edi...@netfront.net> wrote in message
news:mW.GDG...@webnews.netfront.net...
>
> First, let me explain what paints consist of:
> A pigment, and a binding agent.
>
> The pigments, in this case, are "acrylic", which is a form of plastic.
> Yes, plastic! Very finely ground up bits of colored plastic.
Close, but not quite.
Paints also usually contain a _solvent_ or _medium_, in which the binder
is dissolved, and which evaporates as the paint dries. Together, the
binder and solvent are sometimes called the _vehicle_. Acrylic paints
often use water or alcohol as a solvent, but some use petroleum-based
solvents or other nasty chemicals.
The "acrylic" in acrylic paints is the binder, not the pigment.
And water-based acrylics could contain toxic pigments, which would make
them just as unsafe as "solvent-based" paints.
(Try using better sources. The entries at http://www.encyclopedia.com/
are too brief to be of much use.)
> Chemicals that can cause brain damage, or even birth defects, over prolonged
> periods of exposure.
Hello, first of all, thank you for a very much detailed explanation on this
very important information on model building. But what do people actually mean
by "prolonged periods of exposure"? does it means years of exposure or months?
Does painting with hobby color acrylic harmful to people around you (about 3
meters far) even your besides a window?
Thanks a lot
Edison
I *thought* I was missing something from that equation..
After all, something has to keep the binding agent in a liquid state while it's in the jar...
I think the best general rule is to use caution with spraying paints, regardless of the type of
paint.
Do you have any other good sources of reference info about paints and their chemicals?
I was using Liquitex.com's info on their line of acrylic paints as one source, and Encyclopedia.com
as another..
Liquitex's info is biased more towards their own products (of course), so the info can be not very
useful sometimes.
-Giuliano
"Wayne C. Morris" <nos...@this.is.invalid> wrote in message
news:nospam-7FB71F....@nw1nr.wp.wave.shaw.ca...