Ick and pl*co
Paulo
out but my pl*co still covered in ick. I was planning to do a big water
change tomorrow and stop medicating the tank.....I had just a decesed fish
(tetra neon) all the rest seems to be just fine. I am not sure waht to
do....I dont want to continue with medication (Rid Ick+)
--
Paulo
anti
"Paulo" <noe...@sorry.com> wrote in message
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Paulo
--
Paulo
"anti" <an...@email.Com> wrote in message
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anti
what does the * mean?
why not type the fishes name?
"Paulo" <noe...@sorry.com> wrote in message
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Paulo
pl*co....
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Paulo
"anti" <an...@email.Com> wrote in message
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Polarhound
> Apparently to write the complete name, it will attract bad luck to your own
> pl*co....
>
Pleco pleco pleco pleco? Pleco pleco pleco... Pleco!
PurityFailed
>Pleco pleco pleco pleco? Pleco pleco pleco... Pleco!
Eeeekkkkk! Spell ye not the word of doom!
::runs away in terror::
;)
Jessica
Proud mommy of a new pl*co... and a superbly cycled tank. LOL.
Robert Flory
BOB
"anti" <an...@email.Com> wrote in message
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Polarhound
>>From: Polarhound
>
>
>>Pleco pleco pleco pleco? Pleco pleco pleco... Pleco!
>
>
> Eeeekkkkk! Spell ye not the word of doom!
>
> ::runs away in terror::
We'll see what happens.. Due to an algae outbreak, my buttikoferi,
leporinus, and pleco are all living in the 38.
So far they all get along fine. The koferi occasionally chases the
pleco when the lights are on, but never for more than a minute. The lep
hides out a lot (plenty of swimming areas behind cover) but has no
qualms about coming out during feeding time. The koferi and lep have
had no issues swimming close to each other during feeding time. Once
feeding is done though, it's back to the cover for the most part.
Dick
I buy all my fish through the internet. They are delivered overnight
by Air Express. I bought 7 Clown Loaches all covered with Ich. I too
treated them in my 75 gallon tank with Rid Ick+. Only two survived.
I am surprised that your plecos have ich. I have lost 3 o4 four that
just never seemed hardy, but never ich.
I know Rid Ick+ reccommends a water change after the first cycle and
continuing. Did you remove the charcoal from your filter?
Paulo
will see how the pl*co goes. I dont really want to continue, all the rest of
the fishes are fine now.
--
Paulo
"Dick" <rem...@christophers.net> wrote in message
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OldTownSta
comment on this or correct me if I'm wrong, but....
if your ich-y pl*co is still in your main tank, even if your other fish are ich
free, as I understand it there is a high probability the tank will be
reinfected when the ich thingees go through the rest of their life cycle as
they drop off the pl*co.
I would think you would have to continue treatments several days past the
disappearance of the last white spots on the last fish in your tank to insure
against eventual re-infection (which can occur a considerable time later).
When I recently de-iched my tanks, I found lots of good info online -- don't
have the exact url's, but iirc one of the best was at a site called something
like "the skeptical aquarist". The treatment I settled on was used the full
dose of rid ich+ (formalin & malachite green) four different times, waiting 3
days between each treatment, each treatment accompanied by 1/3 water changes.
Also used 1 T salt per 10 gal, & raised temp to 85 F. Seems to have worked.
If I were to do it again, I think I'd do the 4 doses 3 days apart deal using
Quick Cure (formalin only, i think?), and omit the salt & temp increase.
At any rate, I wonder if the best thing to do might be to isolate the ich-y
pl*co in a quarantine tank (continuing treatment there), and continue to hit
your main tank with another dose or two of Rid Ich+, waiting 3 days between
treatments, with partial water changes before each treatment.
I guess the main thrust of what I'm saying (hopefully to be confirmed or
refuted by others), is that if you still have an ich-y fish in the tank, you
still have an ich-y tank.
Jim Supica
Paulo
I was treating the tank for 2 weeks and I feel to give a break to the rest
of the tank. I strongly believe the Ick is always present in the tank, just
when some unbalance happen fish get more sensitive to an attack.
I will see during the week if they recover, otherwise I will start a new
treatment
Thanks again
--
Paulo
"OldTownSta" <oldto...@aol.com> wrote in message
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T
was not able top stay stable... Due to flucuations of day and night temps...
I went and got me another heaters for the 55 and sent the to 85F to help
with the Ich problems... The Pleco was covered in the stuff worse than
everyone else.. I ended up losing two fish... A deformed Kenyi and a
glorious Red Top Blue. The ypunger fish picked up Ich after the adults
seemed to clear up.. I also used a a product that contained chleated
copper. Seemed to work suprisingly fast.. I have just started turning the
tanks temp down. It has been 8 days since the first treatment. ( I am down
to 82f and tonight I will drop 3 more degrees.. )
Tim...
"Paulo" <noe...@sorry.com> wrote in message
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Paulo
--
Paulo
"T" <Yourcra...@hotmail.net> wrote in message
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NetMax
"Paulo" <noe...@sorry.com> wrote in message
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> Thanks for your opinion.
> I was treating the tank for 2 weeks and I feel to give a break to the
rest
> of the tank. I strongly believe the Ick is always present in the tank,
just
> when some unbalance happen fish get more sensitive to an attack.
> I will see during the week if they recover, otherwise I will start a
new
> treatment
The life cycle of Ich is well documented. If the free-swimming stage
does not find a host in about 48 hours, it dies. Worst case (cold
water), the entire life cycle is something like 3 weeks. The appearance
of persistance (or the belief that it always exists) is probably due to
some stragglers eking out a marginal existance by attaching to the gills
instead of tunneling through the slime coat. With enough time, I think
it completely disappears, perhaps 2 months.
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/
> > dose of rid ich+ (formalin & malachite green) four different times,
> waiting 3
> > days between each treatment, each treatment accompanied by 1/3 water
> changes.
> > Also used 1 T salt per 10 gal, & raised temp to 85 F. Seems to have
> worked.
> >
> > If I were to do it again, I think I'd do the 4 doses 3 days apart
deal
> using
> > Quick Cure (formalin only, i think?), and omit the salt & temp
increase.
> >
AFAIK, Quick Cure is formalin & malachite green. Some of the others do
not use formalin, but if they colour the water, there is malachite green
in it.
Nice overall advice from Jim, but I think the OP's concern was more with
his other fish.
NetMax
RedForeman ┊
> My pl*co past away today
Maybe you should tell Polarhound about that... it was HE that typed the name
of his beloved bottom sucker just a couple days ago, in this very same
thread....
btw, I'm not supersticious... not at all *(knocking on wood to verify it)*
:-)
--
RedForeman ĐŪ future fabricator and creator of a ratbike
streetfighter!!! ==========================
2003 TRX450ES
1992 TRX-350 XX (For Sale)
'98 Tacoma Ext Cab 4X4 Lifted....
==========================
øĪ°`°Īø,ļļļ,øĪ°`°Īø,ļļļ,øĪ°`°Īø,ļļ,øĪ°`°Īø,ļļļ,øĪ°`°Īø,ļļ,øĪ°`°Īø
is that better??
Paulo
--
Paulo
"RedForeman ĐŪ" <n...@thisaddress.com> wrote in message
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Paulo
with Rid Ick+. (The total treatment was day 1, 4, 7, 10, and 13 - today)
Now my fishes look worst than ever, but not with white spots now many of
them has fungus(?) on fins, they shake, dont eat, and act really
weird.....Even when they were covered with ick didnt seem to be so
sick.....I am cluless about this......is it normal progression of Ick?.
The tank is a 30 gl, with neon tetras (3), rummy nose (6), harlekin rasbora
(5), hatched (3), festivum (1), shrimps and apple snails....and shrimps and
snails doesnt seem to be affected by medications. Also I was doing a water
change before dosing. My water changes were 25%, but yesterday i did almost
40%.
Please any insight?????
--
Paulo
"Paulo" <noe...@sorry.com> wrote in message
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NetMax
You need to post your water parameters (NH3/4, NO2, NO3, pH) and history
(what was done immediately before noticing the contagion). You either
introduced a disease, or a stress so that a disease could get a grip.
You need to be sure you have no stressor now, so that you can ID and
treat the disease.
NetMax
Paulo
I think the only problem could be the introduction of a new fish (festivum)
2 weeks prior to the outbreak of the Ick.
At that time the water parameter were
0 ammonia
0 nitrites
and 7.2 ph
The tank is running already for a year, and i keep my water changes.
Also, I have increased the light of the tank, just before the outbreak, but
nothing really dramatic, from 20 watts, i went to 2 x 23 w.
I notice one of my hatched has a cloudy eye...and swim to the bottom of the
tank, very clumsy. I feel like the whole tank is crushing down....
I dont know what other info could be relevant
--
Paulo
"NetMax" <comput...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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NetMax
stable, fish been healthy a long time (their immune systems are lazy from
being parked in neutral for a while), and along comes a new fish (not
quarantined) with some modern new bugs. The first thing you see is the
Ich, but that might be a symptom, especially if your fish were quite
healthy. Fungus is also not usually a primary contagion, usually moving
in later on already weakened fish. That leaves bacteria, virus or
another parasite. Any of the 3 could weaken them, leaving the others to
move in.
The fin rot is definitely bacterial (so is the cloudy eye), so you need
antibiotics (broad spectrum gram negative I think) or one of the Fungus
cures (sulpha based I think, good against bacteria as well). It might be
too far advanced for your tetras/rasboras. Hatchetfish don't last long
either. You might be left with a Festivum, a shrimp and a snail in a
week. I've crossposted to alt.aquaria where there is a very
knowledgeable person there for diseases.
NetMax
"Paulo" <noe...@sorry.com> wrote in message
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Paulo
medicating with Rid Ick, I know i shouldnt mix.....I am gonna have to do
some water changes....
--
Paulo
"NetMax" <comput...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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NetMax
> thanks a lot...I will see what happen tomorrow. Also because i was
> medicating with Rid Ick, I know i shouldnt mix.....I am gonna have to
do
> some water changes....
There is no problem with mixing anti-biotics with anti-parasitic
medications. It's done quite often. The products do not directly react
with each other. The concern is that any medication will cause some
stress to a fish. We are hoping they cause _more_ stress to the disease
and the fish live through it, so (generally speaking) multiple
medications cause more stress than a single medication. This is more
pronounced with small or weak fish.
Having said all that, I still think your water changes are a very good
idea. It dilutes any bacteria in the water column, and it's not good to
have fish sitting in parasite dyes any longer than necessary.
NetMax
Paulo
other two hatched and the blue rams seems to be ok. The neon, harlequin and
rummy nose are having a rough time. Fins are getting shredded and a white
film with something in the scales....Tomorrow I will proceed with a water
change and I will get some of the fungus and antibiotic medicine.
--
Paulo
"NetMax" <comput...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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