need help broken crockpot
Your Name Here
was used to store flour, potatoes etc. My daughter dropped a brass vase
on the top of it and broke a large section off the lid. Their is a lot
of sentimental value attached to this pot, and I'd like to fix it. Does
anyone know the best way to reattach it. Crazy glue won't work. The
material is too porous.
N. L. Sliker
Dear 3jga7m....
I do professional custom repairs on ceramics and glass.
I will outline the basic procedure, but this involves rather
difficult custom work on an object of some age and sentimental
meaning for you, so it might be better to bite the bullet and
get it done professionally. To get an idea of what it might
cost you, lay out the pieces, and count the number of seams which
need to be joined (yes, even small ones). Now multiply the
number of seams by $15/ea. Add another minimum $30-$45 for
filling and finishing. Add another minimum $15 for EACH color
to be matched in the final top glazing and any pattern work.
It is my opinion that if you get a repair quotation which is
less than this... take it! (Ask to see examples of their work,
of course.) As to time... be happy with whatever it takes and
be grateful they are interested or sympathetic enough in your
piece to take your job on, because a good artisan always has
25-30 jobs on the table at any one time.
With that in mind...
Take all the pieces and be sure they are absolutely clean and free
of residue, including finger prints (and ALL super-glue you may have
tried in your first repair attempt). Determine the best order in
thich to re-assemble the object. Working in sections, carefully
fit the pieces back together, a piece at a time, and taping them
together with Scotch tape on one side as you go, turning under one
end of each piece of tape for easy removel later. Take your time about
this and ease each piece into its original position as exactly as
possible. Be careful that the surfaces are even across the cracks.
Since you are working on a crock, it is important to use natural
pigment materials and colors. Take a small piece of artist's pastel
as near to the color of the crock as possible, and grind it up in a
mortar until it is VERY FINE. If you can't find pastels in the exact
color, then you will have to grind more than one color into holding
containers and mix them later, which I warn you is not only tedious,
but difficult, as the colors change drastically when they go from
their dry state to their wet state in the epoxy. Anyway, to carry
on... Next you mix up about a teaspoon (or less, as appropriate) of
2-part 2-ton epoxy (DO _NOT_ USE THE FIVE-MINUTE KIND! It sets too
fast, and it changes color) until well-blended, and add tiny amounts
of the ground dry colors until the wet color matches your crock. Be
sure to blend them well, as the ground pigments will at first be lumpy
but will gradually disolve. If you need white, use artist's titanium
white. Now, having matched the color, thin the epoxy mixture with
epoxy thinner and dribble it into the crevices between the pieces,
working from the non-taped side. Bring the pieces into perfect contact
and alignment and tape the top side (be sure to turn under tabs for
later convenience). GENTLY (at this stage it is very easy to upset
all your work before the joint has set) place rubber bands around
the parts so that the joint will achieve further good adhesion,
cleaning up the dribbles which ooze out as you go. Stand the parts
in a box of clean sand in such a manner that the seam is absolutely
horizontal to the floor, thus letting gravity assist you in achieving
a closely-bonded joint. Continue to clean up any dribbles thoroughly
and promptly, as they are difficult to clean off after the epoxy has
set. Allow to set for at least 24-48 hours (depends on temperature
and humidity in your environment). Now carefully remove the original
tape on the first side, as there may still be weak places in the
joint. Inspect the object carefully. Because crocks are
thick, it is likely that you will find it necessary to repeat the
procedure on the same parts, working from the opposite surface. Once
you have all the parts together (which will be 24-48 hours for each
section you work on), you can progress to the finishing stages. If
you have not been diligent about the dribbles, then at this point you
will have to resort to sanding the surfaces even, being careful NOT to
abrade the original surface of the lid (not at all easy). At this point,
if you wish, you can obtain cold glaze ceramic colors (DO NOT USE THE
COMMONLY AVAILABLE ACRYLIC PAINTS. They are not made for this kind of
use and will simply wash off) and over-glaze the seams to match the
original. Whether the piece is matte finish or a glossier salt-glaze
finish will further complicate your decisions, but are really too
difficult to convey in a response of this nature, where I'm simply
outlining basic procedures.
In any case, I hope this helps.
Nancy
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* 3043 Learned Hall *
| University of Kansas "Everything goes wrong all the time - |
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R.A. Harvey Snyder
I assume you have the broken pieces, and I hope the crock itself
is intact. If it a valuable piece, like with a rare signature
and/or a good decoration - look for professional restoration. I
can't tell where you are from, so a suggestion is possibly inappr-
opriate (like someone in Mexico New York for example)
If your piece is common, use any water soluble glue, like Elmer's
or whatever. This should do the trick and will allow for more
professional work later if that's what you want to do.
--
Harvey Snyder, P.Eng
Richmond, Ont., Canada
613-787-4444 then 1690
"EX COELIS"
P.Moravek
>I need help. I have a large antique crock. The kind that has a lid and
>was used to store flour, potatoes etc. My daughter dropped a brass vase
>on the top of it and broke a large section off the lid. Their is a lot
>of sentimental value attached to this pot, and I'd like to fix it. Does
>material is too porous.
>
Hi, I tried to contact you but it bounced back. Please email me and
I can give you some info on a ceramics restoration person I know.