rec.gardens.roses FAQ (1/4) Frequently Asked Questions
Bill Chandler
Archive-name: gardens/roses-faq/part1
Version: 0.30
Last-modified: 14 October 1994
Posting-Frequency: monthly
part1 rec.gardens.roses Frequently Asked Questions
part2 rec.gardens.roses Rose Glossary
part3 rec.gardens.roses Introduction to English Roses
part4 rec.gardens.roses Mail-order rose suppliers
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******** Frequently Asked Questions ************************************
******** rec.gardens.roses faq, part 1/4 *******************************
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--- TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Information about this document
2. Rose Care
[2.1] Why won't my rose bloom?
[2.2] How much sun do roses need?
[2.3] Which roses can be grown in shade?
[2.4] How much water do roses need?
[2.5] How do I deadhead roses?
[2.6] How do I prune roses?
[2.7] How do I protect my rose bushes during the winter?
[2.8] How do I prepare the soil for a new rose bed?
3. Diseases/Insects
[3.1] My rose has blackspot, what do I do?
[3.2] How do I avoid powdery mildew?
[3.3] How do I get rid of aphids?
[3.4] What is eating holes in the leaves of my rose?
[3.5] Why are the leaves of my rose turning yellow?
4. Rose Characteristics
[4.1] What is the most fragrant rose?
[4.2] What kind of rose do I have?
[4.3] Are there any Blue roses?
[4.4] Are there any Black roses?
[4.5] What are David Austin roses or English roses?
5. Miscellaneous
[5.1] How do I propagate roses?
[5.2] What is an ARS rating?
6. FAQ contributors
7. Disclaimer
--- QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
1. Information about this document
This article discusses Frequently Asked Questions(FAQ)
in the newsgroup rec.gardens.roses.
Please post to rec.gardens.roses (or email to
chan...@austin.ibm.com) any recommendations for improving this
faq (parts 1-4), such as either "new or better" questions or
"new or better" answers, or recommendations that certain questions
and answers be changed or dropped. I would like to know which
sections are considered useful by readers and which are a waste
of space.
This document is posted monthly to
rec.gardens.roses, rec.answers and news.answers.
Other ways to obtain the faq are
ANONYMOUS FTP to rtfm.mit.edu (18.181.0.24) and get the file
/pub/usenet/news.answers/gardens/roses-faq/part1
EMAIL(for those without ftp access)
send email to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with no subject and
send usenet/news.answers/gardens/roses-faq/part1
in the body of the message.
WWW(world wide web)
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu
/hypertext/faq/usenet/gardens/roses-faq/part1/faq.html
(the two above lines should be concatenated with no spaces)
Parts 2-4 can be obtained the same way as part 1.
2. Rose Care
[2.1] Why won't my rose bloom?
Here are some reasons that roses don't bloom.
A. Rose plant is not getting enough sun. Roses need at least 6 hours
of direct sun a day.
B. Rose has been given too much fertilizer. Too much fertilizer can
either damage the plant or cause it to grow extra leaves and
stems at the expense of blooms.
C. The rose is a new plant. Don't expect too much from a plant
during its first year.
D. Rose is a once blooming rose. This means it will bloom only once
a year in the late spring or early summer.
[2.2] How much sun do roses need?
Roses prefer a full day of sun. Give roses at least 6 hours of
direct sun a day. Morning sun is especially important because it
dries the leaves which helps prevent disease.
Most roses do poorly in shade. Plants are leggy and more prone
to get fungus. Blooms are sparse.
[2.3] Which roses can be grown in shade?
Many Hybrid Musks and some Albas can tolerate partial shade.
A few other varieties including the floribunda "Gruss An Aachen" can
be planted in partial shade.
Other roses that may grow in partial shade are the Rugosas,
Lyda Rose(shrub), Souvineer du Dr. Jamain(OGR), Old Blush(China),
Class Act(Floribunda), Bonica(Floribunda?), Shropshire Lass(ER),
and Lafter(HT) .
[2.4] How much water do roses need?
Roses appreciate lots of water. Water generously, at least
1 inch/week, preferably 2 inches/week during growing season.
Water every 4-7 days during the summer when needed. Each bush
needs about 4-5 gallons/week in the hot summer.
Infrequent deep watering is preferred to frequent light
watering to help promote a deep root system. Deep root systems
help the rose to survive both droughts, and winter freezes.
(Frequent, light watering causes roots to form very near the
soil surface, and they are more susceptible to summer 'baking'
and winter freezes.) Try to avoid getting the leaves wet (which
promotes disease) when watering. If using a sprinkler, water
in the morning so the foliage can dry before evening.
[2.5] How do I deadhead roses?
Deadheading is cutting off flowers as they wither or don't look
as good. Old blooms left on the plant may have been pollinated and
may begin to form seed pods(hips). The formation of hips requires
a lot of energy from the plant and slows flower production. By
preventing the formation of hips, deadheading encourages the rose
bush to grow new flowers.
The choice of which spot to deadhead at is influenced by
what shape you want the bush to take, and which direction you want
a particular cane to grow. In general, however, you will want to
cut the stem at an angle just above an outward-facing leaf.
To deadhead, remove the flower by making a diagonal cut
just above the next 5-leaf branch down on the stem. If this would
cause too much of the cane to be removed, a 3-leaf branch can be
chosen instead. The first year cut back to the first 3 or 5-leaf
branch. In following years cut far enough down to get to a 5-leaf
branch with a leaf bud that is facing outward. This will open up
the plant.
Once blooming roses do not need to be deadheaded. They bloom
once and then they are finished blooming for the year.
Stop deadheading as of September 1 in zones 4 and 5.
It is a good practice to let the last roses on HT's produce hips
because it makes them more frost hardy. It causes the plant to
undergo chemical changes that slow down growth, inhibit blooming
and generally prepare for dormancy by focusing its energy on
'hardening' the canes. The formation of hips tells the plant
that it's "done its job" and can now rest from its labors.
deadheading floribundas:
When a floribunda forms a bloom "spike" or "candelabra" -
it is setting many little blooms on one stem. To prune
floribundas for quality of bloom, rather than the maximum number
of blooms, pinch out the center, fat bud so the side buds have a
better chance at developing at the same time. This encourages a
big rounded mass of blossoms - a "spray." Floribundas like to do
this so it is relatively easy to persuade them to flower in this
manner. Once some of the blooms begin to fade, you can just cut
out the few that are dying and let the spray continue to develop
blooms. Once the entire spray is spent, or most of the
individually blooms are finished, cut off the entire spray.
[2.6] How do I prune roses?
?? under construction
[2.7] How do I protect my rose bushes during the winter?
?? This section was compiled by a Southerner, so any
?? corrections from Northerners will be appreciated.
Local advice is preferred for this question, but here are
some general guidelines for winter care of rose bushes for those
living in colder climates. The major dangers to the plant in winter
are the drying of the wind, the effect of alternate thawing and
freezing cycles on the plant when winter temperatures fluctuate,
the inability of the plant to take in water if the soil is frozen,
and damage from the cold itself on the canes and bud union.
1. Stop fertilizing in the fall. This will slow the production
of new tender growth, and will allow the existing growth
to harden off.
2. Stop deadheading about September 1 for zones 4 and 5. This
will allow the plant to form hips. The formation of hips
encourages the plant to slow down growth, slow blooming,
and harden the canes, all preparing the plant for dormancy.
3. Do not prune the plant in the fall. Roses store much of
their energy in their canes. This energy is needed to help
sustain the plant through the winter. Wait until spring to
prune.
4. To prevent disease/fungus from overwintering, clean the
rose bed by removing leaves and other debris. Spray the
bush with dormant oil to kill bacteria on the bush and
on the ground.
5. Protect the crown of the rose. This is critical since the
crown is where you want the new canes to come from. There
are several methods of protection to choose from.
a. Cover the bed at least a foot deep with tree leaves.
Do not use rose leaves as they may harbor disease.
b. Cover the bed with straw.
c. Use rose cones.
d. Make a mound with soil or mulch to cover the crown.
e. Wrap the whole plant in burlap if necessary, in
addition to one of above methods of protecting the
crown.
Timing is important as covering the rose too early may
prevent the rose from hardening properly, and covering
the rose too late may risk damage from the cold.
6. Climbers or long canes may benefit from being tied to
avoid thrashing from the wind. Canes may be protected
from drying winter winds by wrapping them in burlap with
a layer of straw for insulation. In severe climates
long canes may need to be tied and buried.
7. Keep the soil well-drained, especially as the spring rains
come.
8. Keep in mind the hardiness of the plant. Many yellow and
lavender roses are especially tender. Own-root roses can
grow back even if the top growth dies.
[2.8] How do I prepare the soil for a new rose bed?
?? under construction
3. Diseases/Insects
[3.1] My rose has blackspot, what do I do?
This fungus causes black spots about 1/16 to 1/2
inches in diameter to form on the leaves and sometimes stems.
The infected leaves turn yellow around the spots and fall from
the plant. In bad cases, blackspot can severely defoliate a rose
bush. The conditions that promote blackspot are wet leaves,
splashing water and warm temperatures.
Ways to combat blackspot. These methods also apply to
preventing and treating powdery mildew.
1. Pick a variety of rose resistant to blackspot. Many
Old Garden Roses and David Austin Roses are quite resistant
to blackspot. Some yellow Hybrid Teas are especially
prone to blackspot.
2. Use watering methods that don't get the leaves wet:
drip watering, using a soaker hose, or just soaking the
ground with a light stream from a garden hose. If overhead
watering is used, do so in the morning so the leaves can
dry off before evening.
3. Remove diseased leaves immediately to prevent further
spreading of the disease. Infected leaves never get better,
they just spread the disease. Prune infected canes severely
in late winter.
4. Prune plant so there is good air flow and the sun can
reach more of the plant.
5. Remove leaves close to the ground that are more susceptible
to getting water splashed on them. Mulch well to minimize
water splashing onto leaves.
6. Keep the plant well watered. A weak or stressed plant is more
susceptible to disease.
Treatments for blackspot
1. The least toxic spray for blackspot is baking soda.
Mix 1 tablespoon baking soda and a few drops of Ivory liquid
with 1 gallon of water. Spray both sides of the leaves once
a week. The Ivory liquid helps the baking soda stick to the
leaves. Reapply after a rain.
2. Another treatments that is not very toxic is sulfur dust.
Dust roses with sulfur dust every 7-10 days.
3. Finally, there are the more toxic chemical sprays
such as funginex. They are often used once every week or two
and are very effective.
Since plants may build up a tolerance to a single fungicide
that is used over and over, alternating between two
fungicides is often recommended. For example, use Funginex
one time, and Daconil the next, or Funginex and Orthene, etc.
[3.2] How do I avoid powdery mildew?
One of the best ways to avoid powdery mildew is to keep things
as airy as possible ... if your rose bushes are against a wall,
that could diminish the airflow and encourage mildew/fungus growth.
Keep excess growth to a minimum within the rose bush. (Clear out
more canes in any "problem bush" much more than you normally
would, so it's got more space between the canes, in the hope
that will improve the air circulation.)
To avoid powdery mildew it's best to *AVOID* sprinkling from
the top, which leaves moisture in the foliage, since fungi
generally enjoy a moist environment. Morning watering is better
than late-day watering, for similar reasons. However, mildew and
fungi find it harder to attack a well-watered plant. If you can
afford it, a drip irrigation system works best of all, providing
moisture without wetting the foliage or spraying dirt and
organisms up from the soil (both of which encourage powdery
mildew and other disease).
Also, spraying the foliage with a mixture of 1 T. baking soda
per 1 gallon of water is often effective.
[3.3] How do I get rid of aphids?
Aphids are tiny insects about a 1/16 to 1/8 inches long, usually
light green, red or black. They come in the spring and damage tender
new growth.
Aphids are usually not difficult to control. A hard spray of
water from the hose will help remove small aphid infestations.
Ladybugs are a natural predator of aphids and are sometimes used
to remove aphids. Aphids have a mutually beneficial relationship
with ants, so ants need to be controlled if aphids are to be
controlled.
[3.4] What is eating holes in the leaves of my rose?
Leaf cutter bees cut semi-circle shaped holes in the leaves
of roses, but they pose no real threat to rose health.
[3.5] Why are the leaves of my rose turning yellow?
?? under construction
4. Rose Characteristics
[4.1] What is the most fragrant rose?
The following are some of the most fragrant roses as recommended
by posts to rec.gardens.roses.
HT Double Delight (mentioned most often), HT Fragrant Cloud,
HT Mr. Lincoln, HT Perfume Delight, HT Dolly Parton, HT Tiffany
ER Evelyn, Gertrude Jekyll
OGR R.damascena Kazanlik
As a group, David Austin roses are quite fragrant. So are some
of the Old Roses, especially the Damasks.
[4.2] What kind of rose do I have?
When posting this question to the newsgroup, include as much
information about the rose as possible, such as the following:
what kind of rose is it?
(climber, Hybrid Tea, Old Garden Rose, Species, Shrub etc.)
approximate plant size (4ft tall by 4ft wide)
flower color, bud color, flower size (4 inch diameter),
approximate number of petals per flower
foliage color (light, medium, or dark green)
foliage description (dull, shiny, leathery, large, small, etc.)
how many leaflets per leaf on average (3,5,7, etc.)
once blooming (blooms once a year) or repeat blooming
thorns (many, few, large, hooked, straight)
fragrance (none, light, heavy, spicy, fruity, tea, etc.)
[4.3] Are there any Blue roses?
Though highly sought after, no blue roses exist yet. Some roses
are advertised as blue but are actually lavender or something. Most
lavender roses are difficult to grow and are quite susceptible to
disease. Some of the bluer roses are "Blue Girl", HT Blue Jay, ??.
The genetics are just not there for producing a true blue color
in roses. It will probably be necessary to use gene splicing to
produce the first blue rose.
[4.4] Are there any Black roses?
No true black roses exist. Some roses sold as black roses are
actually dark red or maroon. The petals of many of these dark red
roses tend to sunburn easily. To see that a rose is not truly black,
hold it up next to a piece of black construction paper. To make a
dark red rose appear blacker, put its stem in water that has black
ink in it.
Below is an incomplete list of some roses that have been
mentioned when black roses are discussed. Next to some of the roses
a very subjective description of the color is given.
Black Beauty new, very deep purple, almost black
Eugene de Beauharnais China rose
Francis Dubreuil Tea rose
Guinee very, very dark red
Harry Hastings
Mirandy deep dark red
Mr. Lincoln(HT)
Oklahoma
Prince English rose. very, very dark red
Sympathie deep red climber
Taboo Popular dark rose that has deep red
flowers with darker edges. It reportedly
has nearly black buds.
Tuscany Superb Gallica? deep maroon velvet
[4.5] What are David Austin roses or English roses?
In 1969, English Roses, often called David Austin Roses, were
introduced by the English rose hybridizer David Austin.
David Austin tried to create roses that combine the best elements
of Old Garden Roses (roses varieties from before 1867) and Modern
Roses (such as Hybrid Teas, Floribundas and Grandifloras). From
the Old Roses he wished to take some of the classic flower forms,
cupped and rosette-shaped old-fashioned flowers, usually with many
petals. He wanted English Roses to be repeat flower well, like the
Hybrid Teas and other Modern Roses. He wished to bring forth
English Roses in a wide variety of colors, such as yellows not
very common in Old Roses. He also sought the strong fragrances of
some of the Old Roses.
5. Miscellaneous
[5.1] How do I propagate roses?
There are two primary ways to propagate roses. Asexual
reproduction is usually used to produce a duplicate of the parent
plant. Sexual reproduction, i.e. growing roses from seed, is
primarily used to create new varieties of roses.
Common methods of asexual propagation of roses are softwood
rooting, hardwood rooting, and bud grafting. Limited space
permits only a brief description of softwood rooting based on
posts by Cheryl Netter.
Old Garden Roses, English Roses and Miniatures are generally
good candidates for rooting cuttings because they usually grow
vigorously on their own roots. Modern Roses such as Hybrid Teas
and Floribundas are usually sold budded onto different rootstock.
Some Modern Roses do grow vigorously on their own roots, but others
do not.
Fill a 1-gallon zip lock baggie 1/4 to 1/3 full with moist,
(not wet), sterile, loose, potting mix, not garden soil. Cut a
disease-free stem that has a flower on it and preferably at least
one five leaflet set. Ideally, the flower is already spent. A bud
with no color is too young. The cut stem should have at least four
leafsets under the bloom. Snip off the stem just above the top-most
leafset. Strip off the bottom two leafsets. Use a knife or
fingernails to score the bottom inch of the stem. Roots will form
along this score. Use a pencil to form a hole for the cutting, and
dip the scored end of the cutting into a rooting compound, a couple
inches deep, and knock off the excess rooting compound. Optionally,
add a very small amount of diazinon or other insecticide to the
soil surface. To prevent fungus and mildew, mist the cutting and
interior of the baggie with a spray bottle filled with 1 quart
water, 1 tsp. miracle gro, 1 tsp. baking soda (no more!), and a
couple drops dishwashing liquid (to make it cling.)
Zip the baggie almost shut. Breathe into the baggie to expand
it like a balloon and zip it up completely. Put the baggie indoors
in bright, INDIRECT light. Direct sun will likely scorch and kill
the cuttings. Look for roots along the bottom of the baggie in two
or three weeks (a few real stubborn ones may take up to six weeks).
When new top growth reaches the top of the baggie, unzip the baggie
a little, opening it a little more each day for about a week. then
transplant to a pot. Keep the pot in the same sunlight for a few
days and then place the pot in a bright window. The proper time for
moving the plant outside depends on the local climate.
[5.2] What is an ARS rating?
An ARS rating is a yearly rating from 1(worst) to 10(best) given
to a variety of rose. This is a U.S. national rating, combining
several district ratings. The district ratings are an average
of individual ratings given by rose growers, beginners to
experienced.
The ARS ratings are print yearly in the
"Handbook for Selecting Roses".
It can be obtained from the address below:
American Rose Society
P.O. Box 30,000
Shreveport, LA 71130-0030
phone: (318) 938-5402
6. FAQ contributors
The following individuals have made suggestions and
contributions to the FAQ (parts 1,2,3 and/or 4).
I have used posts from rec.gardens.roses and other
miscellaneous sources in formulating this faq. If anything in the
faq looks similar to something you have posted and you would like
the credit, send email to chan...@austin.ibm.com, and I will put
your name here.
Karen Baldwin klba...@ren.edaco.ingr.com
Kristine Carroll (Kris) kcar...@u.washington.edu
Bill Chandler chan...@austin.ibm.com
John McCully jmcc...@iastate.edu
Kathleen Much kath...@casbs.Stanford.EDU
Cheryl Netter che...@redwood.stortek.com
7. Disclaimer
This disclaimer applies to all parts of the faq. This faq is
intended as amateur advice. Use faq information at your own risk.
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* end of Frequently Asked Questions ************************************
* end of rec.gardens.roses faq, part 1/4 *******************************
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Bill Chandler
Archive-name: gardens/roses-faq/part2
Version: 0.30
Last-modified: 14 October 1994
Posting-Frequency: monthly
This is part 2 of 4 of the rec.gardens.roses FAQ.
See part 1 for more information about this document.
***********************************************************************
******** Rose Glossary ************************************************
******** rec.gardens.roses faq, part 2/4 ******************************
***********************************************************************
This is a glossary or dictionary of rose-related terms. Hopefully, it
can be useful as a quick reference for many rose questions. Most of this
is just a rough draft and still under construction. Many of the entries
are word-for-word the same as part 1 of the FAQ. Please post to
rec.gardens.roses suggestions for improvement and corrections of any
incorrect, misleading, or unclear information. Or send email to
chan...@austin.ibm.com .
aphids:
Aphids are tiny insects about a 1/16 to 1/8 inches long, usually
light green, red or black. They come in the spring and damage tender
new growth.
Aphids are usually not difficult to control. A hard spray of
water from the hose will help remove small aphid infestations.
Ladybugs are a natural predator of aphids and are sometimes used
to remove aphids. Aphids have a mutually beneficial relationship
with ants, so ants need to be controlled if aphids are to be
controlled.
black roses:
No true black roses exist. Some roses sold as black roses are
actually dark red or maroon. The petals of many of these dark red
roses tend to sunburn easily. To see that a rose is not truly black,
hold it up next to a piece of black construction paper. To make a
dark red rose appear blacker, put its stem in water that has black
ink in it.
Below is an incomplete list of some roses that have been
mentioned when black roses are discussed. Next to some of the roses
a very subjective description of the color is given.
Black Beauty new, very deep purple, almost black
Eugene de Beauharnais China rose
Francis Dubreuil Tea rose
Guinee very, very dark red
Harry Hastings
Mirandy deep dark red
Mr. Lincoln(HT)
Oklahoma
Prince English rose. very, very dark red
Sympathie deep red climber
Taboo Popular dark rose that has deep red
flowers with darker edges. It reportedly
has nearly black buds.
Tuscany Superb Gallica? deep maroon velvet
blackspot:
Treatments for blackspot
and are very effective. Follow the directions carefully.
Since plants may build up a tolerance to a single fungicide
that is used over and over, alternating between two
fungicides is often recommended. For example, use Funginex
one time, and Daconil the next, or Funginex and Orthene, etc.
blue roses:
Though highly sought after, no blue roses exist yet. Some roses
are advertised as blue but are actually lavender or something. Most
lavender roses are difficult to grow and are quite susceptible to
disease. Some of the bluer roses are "Blue Girl", HT Blue Jay, ?? .
A couple true purple roses are Cardinal de Richelieu and
Veilchenblau.
The genetics are just not there for producing a true blue color in
roses. It will probably be necessary to use gene splicing to produce
the first blue rose.
borers:
Can enter the cane through the pruned tops. Prevented by sealing
the canes with wax, white glue, or nail polish.
cutting roses:
Cut flowers in early morning or after it rains, not when
they are under water stress. Cut the stem about an inch longer
than you need. After cutting, immediately place cut flower in
warm water. If possible, with the stem under water, cut off
the bottom inch or so of the stem at an angle. This keeps air
from getting into the stem. Remove all foliage that remains
under water and would just rot. Recut the stem underwater
every day if possible. Some people add a small amount of bleach
to the water to keep down fungus and bacteria. Sugar or soda can
be used for food. Others use a commercial floral preservative.
David Austin Roses: see English Roses
deadheading: (see also hips)
Deadheading is cutting off flowers as they wither or don't look
as good. Old blooms left on the plant may have been pollinated and
may begin to produce seed pods(hips). The formation of hips requires
English Roses: (abbrev. ER) see also Modern Roses, Old Garden Roses
This new group of roses, often called David Austin Roses, was
introduced in 1969 by David Austin of England. These roses are an
attempt to combine the best traits of both Old Garden Roses and
Modern Roses. David Austin has attempted to produce roses with the
classic flower forms, fragrance, and disease resistance of the
Old Garden Roses on plants that repeat bloom like the Modern Roses.
Some of the popular English Roses are Abraham Darby, Graham Thomas,
Heritage, and Mary Rose.
fertilizer
Use a high Phosphorous fertilizer such as 5-10-5 , 8-12-4 or 4-12-4,
(Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potassium), (leaves,flowers,roots).
Fertilize only lightly during the first year while the plant
is getting established.
Floribundas:
Floribundas were created about 1909 by crossing the polyanthas
with Hybrid Teas. They produce flowers in clusters, not singly like
the Hybrid Teas.
fragrance
The following are some of the most fragrant roses as recommended
by posts to rec.gardens.roses.
HT Double Delight (mentioned most often), HT Fragrant Cloud,
HT Mr. Lincoln, HT Perfume Delight, HT Dolly Parton, HT Tiffany
ER Evelyn, Gertrude Jekyll
OGR R.damascena Kazanlik
As a group, David Austin roses are quite fragrant. So are some
of the Old Roses, especially the Damasks.
fungus:
Blackspot, powdery mildew and rust are some of the more common
fungus problems that roses have. See "blackspot" for some ways of
preventing and treating fungus problems. Planting disease-resistant
roses in a sunny location with good air circulation will help
prevent funguses.
hips: (see also deadheading)
These are the rose seed pods that form after a flower's petals
fall if the bloom was pollinated. Hips are the fruit produced by
rose plants. Apple trees are members of the rosacae family and the
apple is a hip. Some varieties such as R.rugosa produce large hips
that turn brilliant colors in the fall.
Allowing the hips to develop will cause a rose to slow down or
stop producing flowers. It also helps induce dormancy, helping
prepare the rose plant for winter in colder climates. In contrast,
deadheading will keep the plant from producing hips and encourage
it to produce more flowers.
Hybrid Teas: (abbrev. HT)
Hybrid Teas are easily the most popular class of roses today.
Hybrid Teas as a group have large flowers with a high-pointed bud.
They are excellent repeat bloomers, often blooming almost continually.
They bloom one flower per stem on long sturdy stems making them
excellent for cutting. Hybrid Teas come in a large variety of colors.
Hybrid Teas are upright shrubs.
The first Hybrid Tea rose, "La France" was bred in 1867.
Japanese Beetles
A shiny copper green beetle that can eat entire flowers as well
as foliage. Can be controlled by milky spore.
leaf cutters
Leaf cutter bees cut semi-circle shaped holes in the leaves
of roses, but they pose no real threat to rose health.
mail-order sources:
Because of its size, this section has moved and become its own
section of the faq. See part 4/4 of the faq.
mildew: see powdery mildew
miniature roses:
Miniature roses grow to only about 6"-18". The plants, leaves
are all miniatures of the larger roses. Miniature roses tend to
be quite hardy and can be grown in containers.
Modern Roses:
Refers to roses introduced since 1867 when the first Hybrid Tea
was created. Usually refers to Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, or Grandiflora
roses.
mulch:
Roses benefit from a 2-3 inch deep mulch such as pine bark,
pine needles, leaf mulch, etc. Keep the mulch a few inches
away from the stem of the plant.
Benefits of proper mulching:
1. reduced watering requirements and less water stress due to
a. milder soil temperatures
b. reduced evaporation
2. less disease from water splashing on the lower leaves
3. fewer weeds because the mulch blocks some of the
sunlight to weed seedlings.
Old Garden Roses: (abbrev. OGR) see also English Roses, Modern Roses
Sometimes called Old Roses, Old-fashioned Roses or Antique
Roses, these are the varieties of roses that existed before 1867
when the first Hybrid Tea was introduced. Some of the classes
of Old Roses are the Albas, Bourbons, Boursaults, Centifolias,
Chinas, Damasks, Gallicas, Hybrid Perpetuals, Mosses, Noisettes,
Portlands, and Tea roses. Some of the Ramblers and Rugosas are
considered Old Roses.
As a group, Old Garden Roses tend to be once blooming, though
some are repeat bloomers. They tend to be more disease-resistant and
require less maintenance than the Hybrid Teas which accounts for
some of their popularity. There are exceptions to this, especially
the China and Tea roses. The China and Tea roses are tender and
disease prone, but are very important because they provide the
repeat blooming genes to many classes of roses (notably Hybrid Teas).
once blooming: see also repeat blooming
Roses that bloom once a year, usually in the spring. They flower
on old wood, so most pruning is done just after they have finished
blooming, not in the winter.
Peace:
Peace is the most popular rose in the world. It is a Hybrid Tea
that was smuggled out of France just before the Nazi occupation and
introduced just after the end of the war. It produces large blooms
of yellow blending to pink on the edges.
planting
Bare-root
Roses that are shipped in their dormant state with no foliage.
Bare-root roses are planted during Winter or very-early Spring.
Container grown
Nurseries will often take bare-root roses from the rose
growers and place them in containers. Container grown roses
can be planted any time of the year although it is better
to plant when temperatures are moderate, usually Spring or
Fall.
powdery mildew:
This fungus forms a powdery white or grayish coating on the
upper surface of young leaves and sometimes on the buds. Infected
leaves crumple and become distorted. It thrives during high humidity
but forms on dry leaves.
One of the best ways to avoid powdery mildew is to keep things
as airy as possible ... if your rose bushes are against a wall,
that could diminish the airflow and encourage mildew/fungus growth.
Keep excess growth to a minimum within the rose bush. (Clear out
more canes in any "problem bush" much more than you normally
would, so it's got more space between the canes, in the hope
that will improve the air circulation.)
To avoid powdery mildew it's best to *AVOID* sprinkling from
the top, which leaves moisture in the foliage, since fungi
generally enjoy a moist environment. Morning watering is better
than late-day watering, for similar reasons. However, mildew and
fungi find it harder to attack a well-watered plant. If you can
afford it, a drip irrigation system works best of all, providing
moisture without wetting the foliage or spraying dirt and
organisms up from the soil (both of which encourage powdery
mildew and other disease).
Also, spraying the foliage with a mixture of 1 T. baking soda
per 1 gallon of water is often effective.
See "blackspot" for other treatments of powdery mildew.
propagation
pruning
?? very much under construction
General idea: open up the bush to increase air circulation
which will help prevent disease.
Remove anything smaller than a pencil (Hybrid Teas).
repeat blooming: see also once blooming
Describes those roses that bloom more than once a year. This
varies from those that only bloom a couple times a year to those
that are in constant bloom. The terms recurrent or remontant are
sometimes used in place of repeat blooming.
rust:
This fungus is manifest by rust-colored spots on the underside
of leaves and yellow patches on the upper surface of the leaf.
soil:
Roses like rich, well-drained soil. Raised beds are ideal.
Roses prefer a P.H. of about 6.5, slightly acid soil.
spider mites:
A tiny arachnid that appears like dust under the leaves. Occurs
during hot, dry weather. Can be controlled with a water wand, or
with the miticides Avid or Kelthane.
sucker:
A sucker is a cane that starts from below the bud union. On
grafted roses, suckers should be removed since they are a different
type of rose than the main plant. With own-root roses, suckers can
be kept as they are the same type as the main plant and add vigor
to the plant.
sunlight
Roses prefer a full day of sun. Give roses at least 6 hours of
direct sun a day. Morning sun is especially important because it
dries the leaves which helps prevent disease.
Most roses do poorly in shade. Plants are leggy and more prone
to get fungus. Blooms are sparse.
Many Hybrid Musks and some Albas can tolerate partial shade.
A few other varieties including the floribunda "Gruss An Aachen" can
be planted in partial shade.
Other roses that may grow in partial shade are the Rugosas,
Lyda Rose(shrub), Souvineer du Dr. Jamain(OGR), Old Blush(China),
Class Act(Floribunda), Bonica(Floribunda?), Shropshire Lass(ER),
and Lafter(HT) .
water:
Water frequently, at least 1 inch/week, preferably 2 inches/week
during growing season. Water every 4-7 days during summer when
needed. About 4-5 gallons/bush/week in hot summer. Infrequent
deep watering is preferred to frequent light watering to help
promote a deep root system that will help the plant during droughts.
Try to avoid getting the leaves wet (which promotes disease)
when watering. If using a sprinkler, water in the morning so the
foliage can dry before evening.
winter protection:
c. Use rose cones.
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* end of Rose Glossary ************************************************
* end of rec.gardens.roses faq, part 2/4 ******************************
***********************************************************************
Bill Chandler
Archive-name: gardens/roses-faq/part3
Version: 0.30
Last-modified: 14 October 1994
Posting-Frequency: monthly
This is part 3 of 4 of the rec.gardens.roses FAQ.
See part 1 for more information about this document.
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******** Introduction to English Roses *********************************
******** rec.gardens.roses FAQ, part 3/4 *******************************
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THIS DOCUMENT
Quite often in rec.gardens.roses, someone will make a reference
to David Austin Roses, Austin Roses, English Roses, or just ER.
These terms all refer to a group of roses first introduced in
1969 by the English rose hybridizer David Austin. These roses
have created quite a bit of interest from some rose gardeners.
This document tries to answer the following questions to those
unfamiliar with English Roses.
Questions:
1. What are English Roses?
2. What is causing the interest in English Roses?
3. What are some popular varieties of English Roses to try growing?
4. What kind of care do English Roses need?
Answers:
1. What are English Roses?
In 1969, English Roses, often called David Austin Roses, were
introduced by the English rose hybridizer David Austin.
David Austin tried to create roses that combine the best elements
of Old Garden Roses (roses varieties from before 1867) and Modern
Roses (such as Hybrid Teas, Floribundas and Grandifloras). From
the Old Roses he wished to take some of the classic flower forms,
cupped and rosette-shaped old-fashioned flowers, usually with many
petals. He wanted English Roses to be repeat flower well, like the
Hybrid Teas and other Modern Roses. He wished to bring forth
English Roses in a wide variety of colors, such as yellows not
very common in Old Roses. He also sought the strong fragrances of
some of the Old Roses.
This was accomplished by crossing Old Roses, particularly those
from the 18th and 19th centuries, with Modern Roses from the 20th
century.
2. What is causing the interest in English Roses?
Interest in English Roses might be attributed to several
of their attributes.
A. Flower form
Most of the English Roses have the classic, old-fashioned
flower form of the Old Roses. English Roses usually produce
fully double flowers, some with over a hundred petals.
B. Repeat blooming
Many gardeners would not grow a rose that blooms once a
year as many Old Roses do. Many English Roses produce the
Old Rose type blooms several times a year. How often they
repeat bloom depends on the variety.
C. Fragrance
As a group, English Roses are very fragrant. English Roses
have a variety of Old Rose fragrances, such as damask, myrhh,
tea scent, etc. The varieties Evelyn and Gertrude Jekyll are
two of the most fragrant English Roses.
D. Disease resistance and hardiness
Many English Roses have shown to be rather disease resistant
and cold hardy, similar to their Old Rose ancestors. Often this
means they require less care and spraying than most Modern Roses.
English Roses are often classified as Shrub Roses and can
make good overall landscape plants.
Another reason for planting English Roses is that they are new
and different, and some gardeners like to plant something that
is not found in anyone else's garden in the neighborhood.
3. What are some popular varieties of English Roses to try growing?
Those who haven't planted English Roses before may want to try
one of the popular varieties below.
'Graham Thomas' is the most popular English Rose. It was named
after one of the great experts of Old Roses. It produces clusters of
medium-sized cup-shaped flowers that are a beautiful butter yellow
when first opening, later fading to a lighter yellow. The center of
the flower opens as the flower ages. Its foliage is light-green, and
the plant has a bushy, upright growth habit with rather slender canes.
It has a nice tea scent. Graham Thomas may try to be a climber in
warm climates. It is reportedly quite disease-resistant.
'Heritage' is "perhaps the most beautiful English Rose"
according to David Austin himself. Its medium-size clear shell pink
blooms are perfectly shaped and grow on stems with few thorns. It
has a strong Old Rose scent with a hint of lemon. It reportedly
drops its petals early, but this is compensated for by a large
number of blooms.
'Abraham Darby' is an interesting English rose in that it is the
offspring of two Modern Roses, the Modern climber 'Aloha' and the
floribunda 'Yellow Cushion'. Its large flowers have the Old Rose
shape, fully double, with many petals. The flowers are a lovely warm
peach-apricot color, fading to light pink on the edges, with some
yellow on the back of the flower. It has shiny medium-green foliage.
It is a vigorous plant which can be trained as a climber. Abraham
Darby has a strong "fruity" fragrance.
'Mary Rose' is an excellent bush that produces rose-pink flowers.
It has a Damask fragrance. Mary Rose has produced many sports.
'Gertrude Jekyll' has beautiful large spiral blooms of a rich,
glowing pink. Its Damask scent is one of the strongest scents of the
English Roses or any rose. It produces many sharp thorns.
It is not considered an attractive bush by everyone.
4. What kind of care do English Roses need?
The care of English Roses is similar to that of Modern Roses with
some exceptions.
?? input would be greatly appreciated on this section from those
?? who have experience growing English Roses
Disease:
As a group English Roses seem to be rather resistant to blackspot
and other diseases. Because of this, some English Roses may get by
with less spraying than most Modern Roses, or no spraying at all,
depending on the climate. As more gardeners grow English Roses,
their disease resistance will be better understood.
Hardiness:
Many of the English Roses are more hardy than most Modern Roses
and can survive harsher climates.
Planting:
While English Roses can be grown as individual plants, group
plantings of two or three plants of one variety planted closely
together are often recommended. A group planting will produce a
fuller looking growth and more flowers in an area than a single
planting.
Pruning:
Much of the beauty of English Roses is not in just the
flower, but also in the plant. English Roses should not be pruned
as heavily as Modern Roses, allowing them to assume their Shrub
Rose forms. The first couple years English Roses should be pruned
only lightly or not at all to allow the bush to fill out.
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* end of Introduction to English Roses *********************************
* end of rec.gardens.roses FAQ, part 3/4 *******************************
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