V-Brake lever question

[cyclotourist]

What are the down-sides to using a "regular" road lever (Tektro/Cane Creek) with V- Brakes?

I'm starting to piece together a mtn. bike (frame TBD).  I'm starting with what I have lying around and going from there...

Long shot request.  Anyone have a single front Dia Compe 287-V lying around unused and lonely?  I need the long-pull "V" kind, not the regular 287 model.  I have a right I'm not using, but the left is on our tandem.

FWIW, Cane Creek has a really nice looking updated version.  Pricey as all get out though. 

--
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

"Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym."  ~Bill Nye, scientist guy

[rperks]

Tektro version is $30 at Rivendell, $26 at universal cycles ....
I have had the textro version, and they work as well as any other
Tektro lever. Slightly larger form factor, kind of nice if you have
big hands. The Shimano units are downright skinny in comparison

On Mar 8, 7:36 pm, cyclotourist <cyclotour...@gmail.com> wrote:
> What are the down-sides to using a "regular" road lever (Tektro/Cane Creek)
> with V- Brakes?
>
> I'm starting to piece together a mtn. bike (frame TBD).  I'm starting with
> what I have lying around and going from there...
>
> Long shot request.  Anyone have a single front Dia Compe 287-V lying around
> unused and lonely?  I need the long-pull "V" kind, not the regular 287
> model.  I have a right I'm not using, but the left is on our tandem.
>
> FWIW, Cane Creek has a really nice looking updated version.  Pricey as all

> get out though.<http://harriscyclery.net/product/dia-compe-scr-5v-drop-levers-for-v-b...>

[Michael_S]

one word... well maybe two.. disc brakes.

when you want to stop big tires in the dirt disc's are in another
world. Hydraulics are best, but Avid cable disc's were damn good too.
I have a steel Haro Mary 29er with hydraulics and the disc's are
almost scary on pavement they stop so fast. But no drop bars except
with the cable versions.

Of course there is a certain satisfaction in riding those same trails
with your 700x35 knobbies and canti's and drop bars.

~Mike~

On Mar 8, 7:36 pm, cyclotourist <cyclotour...@gmail.com> wrote:

> What are the down-sides to using a "regular" road lever (Tektro/Cane Creek)
> with V- Brakes?
>
> I'm starting to piece together a mtn. bike (frame TBD).  I'm starting with
> what I have lying around and going from there...
>
> Long shot request.  Anyone have a single front Dia Compe 287-V lying around
> unused and lonely?  I need the long-pull "V" kind, not the regular 287
> model.  I have a right I'm not using, but the left is on our tandem.
>
> FWIW, Cane Creek has a really nice looking updated version.  Pricey as all

> get out though.<http://harriscyclery.net/product/dia-compe-scr-5v-drop-levers-for-v-b...>

[cyclotourist]

I just had that link and the one for the travel agents forwarded to me.  I didn't know there was a tektro model, only the silly-expensive Cane Creek model ($70).  So yeah, $30 is cool.  I have those non-V versions and they're ok.  I prefer Shimano levers for hand fit.

Here's the link if anyone is interested:  http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/tektro-road-v-brake-levers/15-146

Still, if anyone has an old 287-V left side they want to get rid of for cheap, I'm all ears!

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[cyclotourist]

I've rode my friend's C'dale Caffeine 29er.  It has disks and they locked up really fast.  Not a whole lot of modulation.  I like feathering the brakes and suppose I could get used to it, but wasn't impressed.  I can lock up my wheels with cantis w/out problem, so don't see the need.  Plus I can use the wheelset I have.

I'm probably going to get a Karate Monkey, as mentioned here earlier, but am still really smitten by the Hunq.  Either way I'm going to use Midge clone bars w/ road levers, so am investing now in the bits and pieces I'll need.  HOpefully ready by Summer!

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[andrew hill]

I have Gary Fisher Cobia 29er with discs and it's got a LOT of control over the breaking.  from sudden to damping, whatever i want.  i've never had em lock up.  maybe the mechanism is a bit different on these?  i just know i like em.

[cyclotourist]

Yeah, and that's my only data-point, so may not be the best?  They just seemed to be on/off and nothing really inbetween...

[rperks]

I find the cable Avid BB7 Road Discs give me decent modulation as
well. I went that way because I had the really nice wheel set
though. I think either way will get you where you want to go if set
up properly. here in Southern Cal the wet weather benifits of the
discs are not really a gain.

And the KM you can go with a traditional Canti and levers, and then
switch to road discs with road levers down the line if you want.
Pricepoint usually has them suprisingly cheap, or at least they used
to. The KM is a fun platform to expriment with. I would go with
regular levers and brakes to suit if I was starting over from scratch.

Rob

> > rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com<rbw-owners-bunch%2Bunsubscrib­e...@googlegroups.com>

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> --
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
>
> "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
> wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym."  ~Bill Nye,

> scientist guy- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

[cyclotourist]

Yes, that's another thing, it's definitely an Inland So-Cal bike.

KMs are pretty reasonable, $460.  I'm trying to find a used one for half that as it's a bit of an experiment.  That's why it's hard to come up with the $$$ for a Hunq.  Plus they need a bit longer top tube for the standover.  I'd have to get a 54 to get the standover I want, but the TT is short-ish for me.  The 58 has perfect reach, but ends up w/ only 20mm of clearance. 

If I really start using the KM to it's full potential (and often), I'll probably move on and upgrade to a more Mordorish type of a bike.

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[Michael_S]

Mordorish? Whats dat?

My input ( besides discs) is that the 2.2 29er wheels roll over
everything. You will be much happier and safer on steep trails and
rough terrain with what ever frame you get. Just make sure it's
steel. And those big wheels take some work to climb.. that 12-36
cassette will be your next buy.

~Mike~

[cyclotourist]

The opposite of Rivendellish :-)

Planning on some Nanoraptors and definitely that 12-36 cassette.  Still considering a 1X9.  I have time to figure it out!!! :-)

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[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

With regular short-pull levers and v-brakes, the brakes will move only
a short distance when the lever is pulled. To make them work at all,
the pads will need to be adjusted very close to the rim. You will get
a lot if rubbing and the levers will feel mushy.

I suggest the Tektro levers. They are MUCH better than the old 287V
levers. The hoods are actually closer in shape to Shimano than they
are to other Tektro chubby hoods.

On Mar 8, 9:36 pm, cyclotourist <cyclotour...@gmail.com> wrote:
> What are the down-sides to using a "regular" road lever (Tektro/Cane Creek)
> with V- Brakes?
>
> I'm starting to piece together a mtn. bike (frame TBD).  I'm starting with
> what I have lying around and going from there...
>
> Long shot request.  Anyone have a single front Dia Compe 287-V lying around
> unused and lonely?  I need the long-pull "V" kind, not the regular 287
> model.  I have a right I'm not using, but the left is on our tandem.
>
> FWIW, Cane Creek has a really nice looking updated version.  Pricey as all

> get out though.<http://harriscyclery.net/product/dia-compe-scr-5v-drop-levers-for-v-b...>

[cyclotourist]

Hi Jim, thanks for the info.  That's what I wanted to know about using the wrong levers.

Looks like the 287V levers are NLA.  They're not terribly pretty, but I have an unused one so I figure I'll run what I brung.  Someone has an extra set, so I have it covered now.  The Cane Creeks are more that I would want to pay, but glad to know that the Tektros are there and readily available from Riv.  Not sure why CC charges double for the same thing but with little lizards on the hoods.

Thanks for the 411!

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[CycloFiend]

on 3/8/10 7:36 PM, cyclotourist at cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

> What are the down-sides to using a "regular" road lever (Tektro/Cane Creek)
> with V- Brakes?

Look under the heading of "really bad ideas".... ;^)
It will not pull enough cable. Ref's in the iBob archives (if they are back
up and working now) and, of course, AASHTA:

http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html

If you have the levers, might be cheaper to find lightly-used canti's.

> Long shot request.  Anyone have a single front Dia Compe 287-V lying around
> unused and lonely?  I need the long-pull "V" kind, not the regular 287 model. 
> I have a right I'm not using, but the left is on our tandem.
>
> FWIW, Cane Creek has a really nice looking updated version.  Pricey as all get
> out though.

I've seen them down in the low 40's, albeit in the black finish. Ride-buddy
and master-of-the-usefull hack JimG switched from 287-V's to CCrk's and has
never looked back. Thought he had a writeup on his site, but cannot come up
with it right now.

- J

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Jim Edgar
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Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

"Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you do
it."
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[cyclotourist]

The Tektros and CCs do look a lot nicer than the 287 models. 

But hey, beggars can't be picky about brake levers!

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[Chuck]

On Mar 9, 7:53 pm, cyclotourist <cyclotour...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The Tektros and CCs do look a lot nicer than the 287 models.
>
> But hey, beggars can't be picky about brake levers!
>

More importantly, they also work better. When I built up my V-brake
equipped tourer, I used the 287V because it was the only thing
available at the time. No matter what I did, the brakes always seemed
a little mushy. I switched to the Tektro levers as soon as they
became available, and they made a huge difference in the feel. I'm
also using a pair of the Tektro levers now on my mechanical disk
equipped Xtracycle, and they work great in that application as well.
I do have the 287V levers somewhere in my "parts bin" if you still
need one...

Chuck

[cyclotourist]

Hi Chuck, thanks for the offer.  I already have some forthcoming from another parts bin!  I'll keep your and other folks advice in mind for my next Riv order.  I try to save up until I can get it to $150 and get the free ship!  Wish their minimum was $75, I'd probably order a lot more often!
THANKS,
David

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[Philip Williamson]

I actually like the 287Vs better, mostly due to the blade shape, which
seems easier for me to get a good grip on. They're also slightly
lighter, and all metal. Braking for me was the same.

Philip
McMinnville, Ore.

[PATRICK MOORE]

On Mon, Mar 8, 2010 at 8:36 PM, cyclotourist <cyclot...@gmail.com> wrote:

What are the down-sides to using a "regular" road lever (Tektro/Cane Creek) with V- Brakes?

You won't stop in time. Regular levers, drop or straight, don't pull enough cable.

Having said that, let me offer you, in complete altruism, a really, really nice pair of Tekro V-specific levers, plus a single wheel's worth of Tektro Vs, for the laughable price of $35 shipped. All are cherry.

Patrick "never a selfish motive" Moore

[Buck]

I have the CC Drop V levers. I originally mounted Avid V Brakes (which
came off my Stumpjumper) on my Atlantis with Paselas, so I needed the
extra travel. I bought most of my parts from Harris Cyclery (and
possibly the levers... don't remember) since they are my local dealer
and THE nicest people. The levers are very nice, though not so nice
that I would spend $60 if they weren't specifically for V brakes. If
that makes sense. But I would have spent $40 and... I googled them and
they're available at a couple of places, for around $40. At
aebike.com, they're $42 and if you can find something else and get the
total to $75, shipping is free. Ironically, I later swapped out my
Avids for Paul cantis... so I don't need the extra travel, but the
CC's work fine with the cantis, too.

On Mar 8, 10:36 pm, cyclotourist <cyclotour...@gmail.com> wrote:
> What are the down-sides to using a "regular" road lever (Tektro/Cane Creek)
> with V- Brakes?
>
> I'm starting to piece together a mtn. bike (frame TBD).  I'm starting with
> what I have lying around and going from there...
>
> Long shot request.  Anyone have a single front Dia Compe 287-V lying around
> unused and lonely?  I need the long-pull "V" kind, not the regular 287
> model.  I have a right I'm not using, but the left is on our tandem.
>
> FWIW, Cane Creek has a really nice looking updated version.  Pricey as all

> get out though.<http://harriscyclery.net/product/dia-compe-scr-5v-drop-levers-for-v-b...>

[cyclotourist]

Thanks for the lead! 

Has anyone determined if there is a difference between CC and Tektros, other than finish and lizards?

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[Buck]

C'mon... L-I-Z-A-R-D-S!!! How can you put a price on lizards?
Priceless...

Speaking of lizards and priceless... if you haven't seen it on
youtube... the Lego version of Eddie Izzard's Death Star Canteen

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sv5iEK-IEzw

As for the finish, etc., the CC's are very nice and the overall
quality is excellent.

> > rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com<rbw-owners-bunch%2Bunsu...@googlegroups.com>

[Michael_S]

I thought it was a skink? which is in the lizard family but with
different physical attributes than "true" lizards.

and if you do choose v-brakes... the best design out there is the CC
Direct Curve.
I've alway felt though, that well adjusted cantilevers stop just as
well and look much better than any v-brake.

http://www.canecreek.com/component-other?product=direct-curve-5

~Mike~

> > > rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com<rbw-owners-bunch%2Bunsubscrib­e...@googlegroups.com>

> > > .
> > > For more options, visit this group at
> > >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > David
> > Redlands, CA
>
> > "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
> > wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym."  ~Bill Nye,

[cyclotourist]

Reptilian levers!

Those look like pretty fancy brakes.  What's the difference between the 3 and the 5?

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[Frederick, Steve]

I've used Can Creek's direct curve brake calipers on a few bikes--they work well. The difference between the 3 and 5 as I recall is that the 5's feature cartridge brake pads and their hardware can be reversed so you can run them front or rear, or with the cable routed from the left or right...

...rumor has it that they have enough vertical brake pad adjustment to allow use of 650b wheels on 26" wheel bike with canti posts. I have not personally confirmed this, however.

Steve Frederick, East Lansing MI

> > > > rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com<rbw-owners-bunch%2Bunsu...@googlegroups.com>

> <rbw-owners-bunch%2Bunsubscrib­e...@googlegroups.com>
> > > > .
> > > > For more options, visit this group at
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> >
> > > --
> > > Cheers,
> > > David
> > > Redlands, CA
> >
> > > "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is
> something
> > > wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym." ~Bill
> Nye,
> > > scientist guy- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

"Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym." ~Bill Nye,

scientist guy

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[cyclotourist]

Thanks Steve.  Cartridge pads alone are worth the difference, but they're getting close to Paul territory @ $88 retail.  Motolites are just a bit more. 

Hmmmm, luckily don't need them anytime soon now.  I have dedicated hydraulic on the new steed:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157623615047170/

[Frederick, Steve]

It looks as though the 3's come with cartridge pads, too now, so not much reason to get the 5's unless you're working with some odd cable routing. 

 

Nice Surly--what brakes are you using?

 

Steve

[cyclotourist]

It came with IRD Double Banger full hydraulic.  They seem fine, but lack the pad adjustment my friend's Avids have.

[Michael_S]

the IRD's are mechanical and use a cable to actuate. The adjustment of
pads will require thin washers between the disc mounts on the frame
and the calipers to shift the caliper enough to center the pads
between the rotor.
The double banger actually moves both disc pads instead of just one
side like the Avids.

On Mar 15, 5:17 pm, cyclotourist <cyclotour...@gmail.com> wrote:
> It came with IRD Double Banger full hydraulic.  They seem fine, but lack the
> pad adjustment my friend's Avids have.
>
> On Mon, Mar 15, 2010 at 10:10 AM, Frederick, Steve <
>
>
>
>
>
> frede...@mail.lib.msu.edu> wrote:
> >  It looks as though the 3's come with cartridge pads, too now, so not much
> > reason to get the 5's unless you're working with some odd cable routing.
>
> > Nice Surly--what brakes are you using?
>
> > Steve
>
> > -----Original Message-----

> > *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> > rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com]*On Behalf Of *cyclotourist
> > *Sent:* Sunday, March 14, 2010 7:47 PM
> > *To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
> > *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Re: V-Brake lever question

>
> > Thanks Steve.  Cartridge pads alone are worth the difference, but they're
> > getting close to Paul territory @ $88 retail.  Motolites are just a bit
> > more.
>
> > Hmmmm, luckily don't need them anytime soon now.  I have dedicated
> > hydraulic on the new steed:
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157623615047170/
>
> > On Sun, Mar 14, 2010 at 4:10 PM, Frederick, Steve <
> > frede...@mail.lib.msu.edu> wrote:
>
> >> I've used Can Creek's direct curve brake calipers on a few bikes--they
> >> work well.  The difference between the 3 and 5 as I recall is that the 5's
> >> feature cartridge brake pads and their hardware can be reversed so you can
> >> run them front or rear, or with the cable routed from the left or right...
>
> >> ...rumor has it that they have enough vertical brake pad adjustment to
> >> allow use of 650b wheels on 26" wheel bike with canti posts.  I have not
> >> personally confirmed this, however.
>
> >> Steve Frederick, East Lansing MI
>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com on behalf of cyclotourist
> >> Sent: Fri 3/12/2010 9:10 PM
> >> To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
> >> Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: V-Brake lever question
>
> >> Reptilian levers!
>
> >> Those look like pretty fancy brakes.  What's the difference between the 3
> >> and the 5?
>

> >> On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 7:14 AM, Michael_S <mikeybi...@rocketmail.com

> >> > > > > rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com<rbw-owners-bunch%2Bunsubscrib­e...@googlegroups.com>
> >> <rbw-owners-bunch%2Bunsu...@googlegroups.com<rbw-owners-bunch%252Bunsub­scr...@googlegroups.com>

>
> >> > <rbw-owners-bunch%2Bunsubscrib­e...@googlegroups.com>
> >> > > > > .
> >> > > > > For more options, visit this group at
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>
> >> > > > --
> >> > > > Cheers,
> >> > > > David
> >> > > > Redlands, CA
>
> >> > > > "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is
> >> > something
> >> > > > wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym."  ~Bill
> >> > Nye,
> >> > > > scientist guy- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> > > - Show quoted text -
>
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>
> >> > .
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> >> --
> >> Cheers,
> >> David
> >> Redlands, CA
>
> >> "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
> >> wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym."  ~Bill Nye,
> >> scientist guy
>
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> > Redlands, CA
>
> > "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
> > wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym."  ~Bill Nye,

> > scientist guy
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[cyclotourist]

These are the original double bangers from about five, six years ago.  They're full hydraulic.  You can see the little reservoir on the levers here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4433448602/

From what I read their design is pretty cool.  Both pads move instead of just one side compressing against the fixed side.  Thanks for the tip on the shim/spacer.  Like I mentioned here and/or on the pics, I have no experience with these on a bike (although I love changing brake pads on my car!).

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[Michael_S]

Well I stand corrected. Not very common and I have done research on
most hydraulic discs. The Maguras and Formulas are the best, but a top
o'line set cost more than your frame.
The bike will certainly be fun for rock crawlin!

On Mar 15, 8:47 pm, cyclotourist <cyclotour...@gmail.com> wrote:
> These are the original double bangers from about five, six years ago.
> They're full hydraulic.  You can see the little reservoir on the levers

> here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4433448602/...
>
> read more »

>
> From what I read their design is pretty cool.  Both pads move instead of
> just one side compressing against the fixed side.  Thanks for the tip on the
> shim/spacer.  Like I mentioned here and/or on the pics, I have no experience
> with these on a bike (although I love changing brake pads on my car!).
>

> > > >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to- Hide quoted text -

[cyclotourist]

I stumped the panel!

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