Build A Work Bench
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Jim Ames
Mar 20, 2013, 5:11:34 AM3/20/13
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Please consider this free-reprint article written by:
Jim Ames
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IMPORTANT - Publication/Reprint Terms
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- You are not allowed to use this article for commercial purposes. The article should only be reprinted in a publicly accessible website and not in a members-only commercial site.
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The role of iSnare.com is only to distribute this article as part of its Article Distribution feature ( http://www.isnare.com/distribution.php ). iSnare.com does NOT own this article, please respect the author's copyright and this publication/reprint terms. If you do not agree to any of these terms, please do not reprint or publish this article.
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Article Title: Build A Work Bench
Author: Jim Ames
Word Count: 715
Article URL: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=143033&ca=Home+Management
Format: 64cpl
Contact The Author: http://www.isnare.com/eta.php?aid=143033
Easy Publish Tool: http://www.isnare.com/html.php?aid=143033
*********************** ARTICLE START ***********************
Here are the plans to make a workbench for your shop. Fairly easy to build, these plans make a nice, solid, compact bench to fit in nearly any workshop.
Items needed:
Top 198 x 48 x 1800mm
Corner brackets 90 x 35 x 240mm
Side top rails 148 x 48 x 800mm
Front/back top rails 90 x 35 x 1400mm
Coach bolts, nuts and washers 5/16 x 4 �
Side bottom rails 90 x 35 x 800mm
Legs 98 x 98 x 900mm
Front/back bottom rails 90 x 35 x 1400mm
Shelf 800 x 1470 x 19mm
Bench stop 90 x 35 x 300mm
Tools
Claw hammer
Smoothing plane
Marking gauge
Combination square
Steel tape
Three beveled-edge firmer chisels
Cross-cut saw
Tenon saw
Nail punch
Twist drills
Screwdrivers
Oil stone
Sanding cork
Variable-speed power drill
Jigsaw
Circular saw
Instructions:
1. Cut to length the four legs and mark in housings for top and bottom rails. The top housing is 148mm x 48mm deep; the lower one 90mm x 35mm deep. Set your circular saw to the right depth and cut on the waste side of the lines you marked. Cut a series of parallel lines about 12mm apart between the housing marks and knock out waste. Smooth each housing with a chisel or rasp.
2. Cut to length front and back top and bottom rails, align them in their housing and pin in place with nails. Drill through both legs and rails as shown and bolt rails to legs. Check frame is square by measuring the diagonals.
3. Cut and clamp side rails to the front and back frame, then drill and insert the longer bolts. Tighten all nuts securely and check the table doesn't rock.
4. Cut out four corner brackets with 45-degree angles. A miter saw will be useful for this or set a circular saw to cut at 45 degrees. Screw brackets in place flush with top of rails. At this stage the bench frame should be completely rigid.
5. Cut the bottom shelf to suit the dimensions of the bench. Notch out 35mm x 133mm in each corner to clear the legs. The shelf can be screwed in place or left loose.
6. Cut the five pieces for the top. Move them around to get a good fit for the edges and hold them in place with a nail. Screw them to the bench frame with 100mm screws, two in each end, sunk slightly below the surface. Use a plane to smooth any major irregularities.
7. Prepare a bench stop as shown in the detail. Find the center and measure 60mm and 200mm from one end of a length of 90mm x 35mm pine. Drill an 8mm diameter hole at these points. Draw two lines joining the holes and cut along lines with a jigsaw to form a slot. Smooth the cut with a file or sharp chisel. Bevel the end at 45 degrees. Cut bench to a length of 300mm.
8. Locate the bench stop where you want it. Right-handed people generally prefer the stop at the left-hand end of the bench and left-handed people vice-versa. Make sure you avoid the braces. Hold the bench stop against the front rails and mark around it on the underside of the bench top. Transfer this shape to the top of the bench.
Drill two holes in opposite corners and cut out the rectangular hole. Insert the bench stop and make sure it slides smoothly. Adjust with a file or chisel as necessary. Hold the bench stop so it is flush with the bench top and drill a hole through the front rail at the top of the slot. Insert a carriage bolt with a washer and wing nut to allow the bench stop to be raised and lowered easily.
On the average, workbenches are not finished; i.e. do not apply paint or a clear finish so that this finish does not mark other items that are built on the bench.
For more information on benches visit http://www.bench411.com
About The Author: For more information & a free newsletter visit our blog at http://myhomeimprovementtips.com . Additional tips and resources on benches can be found at http://www.bench411.com
Please use the HTML version of this article at:
http://www.isnare.com/html.php?aid=143033
*********************** ARTICLE END ***********************
- To distribute your articles go to http://www.isnare.com/distribution.php
- For more free-reprint articles go to http://www.isnare.com
Message delivered directly to members of the group:
publish-the...@googlegroups.com
*****************************************************************
Please consider this free-reprint article written by:
Jim Ames
*****************************
IMPORTANT - Publication/Reprint Terms
- You have permission to publish this article electronically in free-only publications such as a website or an ezine as long as the bylines are included.
- You are not allowed to use this article for commercial purposes. The article should only be reprinted in a publicly accessible website and not in a members-only commercial site.
- You are not allowed to post/reprint this article in any sites/publications that contains or supports hate, violence, porn and warez or any indecent and illegal sites/publications.
- You are not allowed to use this article in UCE (Unsolicited Commercial Email) or SPAM. This article MUST be distributed in an opt-in email list only.
- If you distribute this article in an ezine or newsletter, we ask that you send a copy of the newsletter or ezine that contains the article to http://www.isnare.com/eta.php?aid=143033
- If you post this article in a website/forum/blog, ALL links MUST be set to hyperlinks and we ask that you send a copy of the URL where the article is posted to http://www.isnare.com/eta.php?aid=143033
- We request that you ask permission from the author if you want to publish this article in print.
The role of iSnare.com is only to distribute this article as part of its Article Distribution feature ( http://www.isnare.com/distribution.php ). iSnare.com does NOT own this article, please respect the author's copyright and this publication/reprint terms. If you do not agree to any of these terms, please do not reprint or publish this article.
*****************************
Article Title: Build A Work Bench
Author: Jim Ames
Word Count: 715
Article URL: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=143033&ca=Home+Management
Format: 64cpl
Contact The Author: http://www.isnare.com/eta.php?aid=143033
Easy Publish Tool: http://www.isnare.com/html.php?aid=143033
*********************** ARTICLE START ***********************
Here are the plans to make a workbench for your shop. Fairly easy to build, these plans make a nice, solid, compact bench to fit in nearly any workshop.
Items needed:
Top 198 x 48 x 1800mm
Corner brackets 90 x 35 x 240mm
Side top rails 148 x 48 x 800mm
Front/back top rails 90 x 35 x 1400mm
Coach bolts, nuts and washers 5/16 x 4 �
Side bottom rails 90 x 35 x 800mm
Legs 98 x 98 x 900mm
Front/back bottom rails 90 x 35 x 1400mm
Shelf 800 x 1470 x 19mm
Bench stop 90 x 35 x 300mm
Tools
Claw hammer
Smoothing plane
Marking gauge
Combination square
Steel tape
Three beveled-edge firmer chisels
Cross-cut saw
Tenon saw
Nail punch
Twist drills
Screwdrivers
Oil stone
Sanding cork
Variable-speed power drill
Jigsaw
Circular saw
Instructions:
1. Cut to length the four legs and mark in housings for top and bottom rails. The top housing is 148mm x 48mm deep; the lower one 90mm x 35mm deep. Set your circular saw to the right depth and cut on the waste side of the lines you marked. Cut a series of parallel lines about 12mm apart between the housing marks and knock out waste. Smooth each housing with a chisel or rasp.
2. Cut to length front and back top and bottom rails, align them in their housing and pin in place with nails. Drill through both legs and rails as shown and bolt rails to legs. Check frame is square by measuring the diagonals.
3. Cut and clamp side rails to the front and back frame, then drill and insert the longer bolts. Tighten all nuts securely and check the table doesn't rock.
4. Cut out four corner brackets with 45-degree angles. A miter saw will be useful for this or set a circular saw to cut at 45 degrees. Screw brackets in place flush with top of rails. At this stage the bench frame should be completely rigid.
5. Cut the bottom shelf to suit the dimensions of the bench. Notch out 35mm x 133mm in each corner to clear the legs. The shelf can be screwed in place or left loose.
6. Cut the five pieces for the top. Move them around to get a good fit for the edges and hold them in place with a nail. Screw them to the bench frame with 100mm screws, two in each end, sunk slightly below the surface. Use a plane to smooth any major irregularities.
7. Prepare a bench stop as shown in the detail. Find the center and measure 60mm and 200mm from one end of a length of 90mm x 35mm pine. Drill an 8mm diameter hole at these points. Draw two lines joining the holes and cut along lines with a jigsaw to form a slot. Smooth the cut with a file or sharp chisel. Bevel the end at 45 degrees. Cut bench to a length of 300mm.
8. Locate the bench stop where you want it. Right-handed people generally prefer the stop at the left-hand end of the bench and left-handed people vice-versa. Make sure you avoid the braces. Hold the bench stop against the front rails and mark around it on the underside of the bench top. Transfer this shape to the top of the bench.
Drill two holes in opposite corners and cut out the rectangular hole. Insert the bench stop and make sure it slides smoothly. Adjust with a file or chisel as necessary. Hold the bench stop so it is flush with the bench top and drill a hole through the front rail at the top of the slot. Insert a carriage bolt with a washer and wing nut to allow the bench stop to be raised and lowered easily.
On the average, workbenches are not finished; i.e. do not apply paint or a clear finish so that this finish does not mark other items that are built on the bench.
For more information on benches visit http://www.bench411.com
About The Author: For more information & a free newsletter visit our blog at http://myhomeimprovementtips.com . Additional tips and resources on benches can be found at http://www.bench411.com
Please use the HTML version of this article at:
http://www.isnare.com/html.php?aid=143033
*********************** ARTICLE END ***********************
- To distribute your articles go to http://www.isnare.com/distribution.php
- For more free-reprint articles go to http://www.isnare.com
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