Concrete Basics
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Jim Ames
Mar 20, 2013, 4:30:03 AM3/20/13
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Please consider this free-reprint article written by:
Jim Ames
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Article Title: Concrete Basics
Author: Jim Ames
Word Count: 623
Article URL: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=141128&ca=Home+Management
Format: 64cpl
Contact The Author: http://www.isnare.com/eta.php?aid=141128
Easy Publish Tool: http://www.isnare.com/html.php?aid=141128
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Concrete is the most commonly used man made building supply on Earth. Six billion cubic meters are manufactured a year, in a $35 billion industry. This means there are pretty good odds that you�ll eventually do something with, or be around something with concrete.
Weather and climate will affect your concrete. It is not wise to pour your cement in conditions that involve a drop below freezing before the cement cures, as this will prevent the cement from reaching its maximum strength. Likewise, if the humidity is too low, the surface of the cement can crack and produce weaknesses for weather to attack.
All concrete will eventually crack to some extent, though this can be minimized by good design and selection of good reinforcement where needed. This does not mean concrete is a bad choice, as concrete structures have lasted thousands of years.
Concrete is used as a fire barrier, but while it doesn�t burn, it can be damaged by heat. Once the temperature reaches or exceeds 300 degrees, the concrete is considered unsafe, and this can usually be detected by a pink, light gray or yellow-brown color. Discolored concrete should be replaced.
For handyman style use, bagged cement is perfectly reasonable, and for convenience, there are pre-mixed bags with aggregate already mixed, just requiring water. These are very handy for small jobs such as setting a pole into the ground for a doggy chain or clothesline. This is usually too expensive for large jobs.
Pouring concrete, such as a sidewalk, requires several steps. First, figure out how much you need. This is determined by measuring the surface area and thickness to determine how many cubic yards you need, and this will tell you whether you can mix it yourself, or need to have it delivered.
Then you build your forms. This probably involves digging, and laying 2�x4� boards to hold the edges of the concrete. 2�x2� boards should be used to hold those in place, pounding them deep enough that the weight of the concrete won�t push the boards out of place.
You will almost always want to lay reinforcing material in the bottom, such as metal fencing materials. Ensure that you have everything square and at the proper level, as after you pour, it will be too late. Then ensure that all of the pieces are well secured with nails and clamps. Spray the site with later lightly, and pour. Tamp the concrete down, especially on the edges, and level the concrete.
Once it has set enough to support a 2�x8� board, use one as a straight edge to cut contraction joints. These should be every four to six feet. For sidewalks or narrow areas, this is sufficient, but for patios these should go in both directions. A pair of beveled clapboards can be used. Coat them with motor oil and place a nail into one. Insert them into joints on large concrete structures. As the concrete begins to set, the nail is used to remove one of the boards, and the other is hidden inside, leaving room for the concrete to expand or contract with the weather.
There are a variety of ways to surface the concrete, but remember that you must select one that will allow water to drain off of the concrete, as standing water is a major cause of damage to concrete. After you surface the concrete, it must be wetted down every 12 hours for the next three days, and protected from sunlight while it cures. Visit http://www.tipsonconcrete.com for additional tips.
About The Author: For more information & a free newsletter visit our blog at: http://myhomeimprovementtips.com . More tips & resources on concrete are at: http://www.tipsonconcrete.com
Please use the HTML version of this article at:
http://www.isnare.com/html.php?aid=141128
*********************** ARTICLE END ***********************
- To distribute your articles go to http://www.isnare.com/distribution.php
- For more free-reprint articles go to http://www.isnare.com
Message delivered directly to members of the group:
publish-the...@googlegroups.com
*****************************************************************
Please consider this free-reprint article written by:
Jim Ames
*****************************
IMPORTANT - Publication/Reprint Terms
- You have permission to publish this article electronically in free-only publications such as a website or an ezine as long as the bylines are included.
- You are not allowed to use this article for commercial purposes. The article should only be reprinted in a publicly accessible website and not in a members-only commercial site.
- You are not allowed to post/reprint this article in any sites/publications that contains or supports hate, violence, porn and warez or any indecent and illegal sites/publications.
- You are not allowed to use this article in UCE (Unsolicited Commercial Email) or SPAM. This article MUST be distributed in an opt-in email list only.
- If you distribute this article in an ezine or newsletter, we ask that you send a copy of the newsletter or ezine that contains the article to http://www.isnare.com/eta.php?aid=141128
- If you post this article in a website/forum/blog, ALL links MUST be set to hyperlinks and we ask that you send a copy of the URL where the article is posted to http://www.isnare.com/eta.php?aid=141128
- We request that you ask permission from the author if you want to publish this article in print.
The role of iSnare.com is only to distribute this article as part of its Article Distribution feature ( http://www.isnare.com/distribution.php ). iSnare.com does NOT own this article, please respect the author's copyright and this publication/reprint terms. If you do not agree to any of these terms, please do not reprint or publish this article.
*****************************
Article Title: Concrete Basics
Author: Jim Ames
Word Count: 623
Article URL: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=141128&ca=Home+Management
Format: 64cpl
Contact The Author: http://www.isnare.com/eta.php?aid=141128
Easy Publish Tool: http://www.isnare.com/html.php?aid=141128
*********************** ARTICLE START ***********************
Concrete is the most commonly used man made building supply on Earth. Six billion cubic meters are manufactured a year, in a $35 billion industry. This means there are pretty good odds that you�ll eventually do something with, or be around something with concrete.
Weather and climate will affect your concrete. It is not wise to pour your cement in conditions that involve a drop below freezing before the cement cures, as this will prevent the cement from reaching its maximum strength. Likewise, if the humidity is too low, the surface of the cement can crack and produce weaknesses for weather to attack.
All concrete will eventually crack to some extent, though this can be minimized by good design and selection of good reinforcement where needed. This does not mean concrete is a bad choice, as concrete structures have lasted thousands of years.
Concrete is used as a fire barrier, but while it doesn�t burn, it can be damaged by heat. Once the temperature reaches or exceeds 300 degrees, the concrete is considered unsafe, and this can usually be detected by a pink, light gray or yellow-brown color. Discolored concrete should be replaced.
For handyman style use, bagged cement is perfectly reasonable, and for convenience, there are pre-mixed bags with aggregate already mixed, just requiring water. These are very handy for small jobs such as setting a pole into the ground for a doggy chain or clothesline. This is usually too expensive for large jobs.
Pouring concrete, such as a sidewalk, requires several steps. First, figure out how much you need. This is determined by measuring the surface area and thickness to determine how many cubic yards you need, and this will tell you whether you can mix it yourself, or need to have it delivered.
Then you build your forms. This probably involves digging, and laying 2�x4� boards to hold the edges of the concrete. 2�x2� boards should be used to hold those in place, pounding them deep enough that the weight of the concrete won�t push the boards out of place.
You will almost always want to lay reinforcing material in the bottom, such as metal fencing materials. Ensure that you have everything square and at the proper level, as after you pour, it will be too late. Then ensure that all of the pieces are well secured with nails and clamps. Spray the site with later lightly, and pour. Tamp the concrete down, especially on the edges, and level the concrete.
Once it has set enough to support a 2�x8� board, use one as a straight edge to cut contraction joints. These should be every four to six feet. For sidewalks or narrow areas, this is sufficient, but for patios these should go in both directions. A pair of beveled clapboards can be used. Coat them with motor oil and place a nail into one. Insert them into joints on large concrete structures. As the concrete begins to set, the nail is used to remove one of the boards, and the other is hidden inside, leaving room for the concrete to expand or contract with the weather.
There are a variety of ways to surface the concrete, but remember that you must select one that will allow water to drain off of the concrete, as standing water is a major cause of damage to concrete. After you surface the concrete, it must be wetted down every 12 hours for the next three days, and protected from sunlight while it cures. Visit http://www.tipsonconcrete.com for additional tips.
About The Author: For more information & a free newsletter visit our blog at: http://myhomeimprovementtips.com . More tips & resources on concrete are at: http://www.tipsonconcrete.com
Please use the HTML version of this article at:
http://www.isnare.com/html.php?aid=141128
*********************** ARTICLE END ***********************
- To distribute your articles go to http://www.isnare.com/distribution.php
- For more free-reprint articles go to http://www.isnare.com
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