Anchoring Vertical Copper Water Supply to Studs (?)
croy
water supply pipes to studs, but still allow enough room for
plastic foam sleeve-style insulation?
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Thanks,
croy
ironmike
I don't know if you're going through the studs, or just running on
the surface. If you're going through the studs, just drill holes big
enough for the insulation. Ordinarily, plumbers don't anchor
horizontal pipes that go through studs (there are exceptions). If
you're attaching insulated copper pipes on the surface of the studs,
you can get either 2-hole pipe straps big enough to accommodate the
insulation, or you can use wire hangers that nail onto the studs.
Are you sure these pipes need to be insulated?
croy
<mi...@comenserv.org> wrote:
> I don't know if you're going through the studs, or just running on
>the surface. If you're going through the studs, just drill holes big
>enough for the insulation. Ordinarily, plumbers don't anchor
>horizontal pipes that go through studs (there are exceptions). If
>you're attaching insulated copper pipes on the surface of the studs,
>you can get either 2-hole pipe straps big enough to accommodate the
>insulation, or you can use wire hangers that nail onto the studs.
>
> Are you sure these pipes need to be insulated?
They're vertical pipes in an outside wall, and I'm thinking
that some sort of standoff from the stud that allowed the
use of closed-cell pipe insulation would be better than
laying the pipe against the stud and using wall insulation
(for the hot water line). It seems to me that the studs
might get pretty cold in cold weather, and even tho wood
isn't much of a thermal conductor, I'd rather have pipe
insulation wherever I can.
--
croy
ironmike
> On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 17:40:11 -0700 (PDT), ironmike
>
OK, gotcha.
Most plumbers would nail a stringer between the studs and then run
the vertical pipes in the middle of the stud space. You can use two-
hole straps that are large enough to accommodate the insulated pipes.
You can also drill the holes in the plates large enough to pass the
insulated pipes.
Most plumbers like me would try very hard NOT to run these pipes in
an outside wall. I'm from Chicago, and freezing is always on my
mind. Is there any way to run these pipes in an inside wall? If not,
then put as much additional insulation between the pipes and the
outside wall in the stud space. Leave the side that faces towards the
heat clear of insulation.
croy
<mi...@comenserv.org> wrote:
>> They're vertical pipes in an outside wall, and I'm thinking
>> that some sort of standoff from the stud that allowed the
>> use of closed-cell pipe insulation would be better than
>> laying the pipe against the stud and using wall insulation
>> (for the hot water line). �It seems to me that the studs
>> might get pretty cold in cold weather, and even tho wood
>> isn't much of a thermal conductor, I'd rather have pipe
>> insulation wherever I can.
> OK, gotcha.
>
> Most plumbers would nail a stringer between the studs and then run
>the vertical pipes in the middle of the stud space. You can use two-
>hole straps that are large enough to accommodate the insulated pipes.
>You can also drill the holes in the plates large enough to pass the
>insulated pipes.
>
> Most plumbers like me would try very hard NOT to run these pipes in
>an outside wall. I'm from Chicago, and freezing is always on my
>mind. Is there any way to run these pipes in an inside wall? If not,
>then put as much additional insulation between the pipes and the
>outside wall in the stud space. Leave the side that faces towards the
>heat clear of insulation.
Hehe. North central California. When I said "pretty cold",
I meant in comparison with desired hot-water temp. Freezing
temp's in winter do occur here, but usually only a few days
each year. 15 or 20 years ago, we had something like 5 days
of sub-freezing temps, and lots of things broke, and even
some large, non-native trees died (not to mention lots of
smaller plants). I think a couple of people died, too. But
that's the worst here.
Anyway, I'm thinking more of energy conservation than of
frost-durability.
I was surprised to see that the polyethylene foam pipe
insulation I had thrown on the pipes about 20 years ago had
lost some of its "ductility"--when I pulled some off, it
actually broke, instead of just flexing back off the pipe.
This makes me a little uneasy about mounting pipes by their
insulation. I would imagine foam-rubber would have even a
shorter life. It seems to me that if the pipes themselves
last for 50 years, then the pipe-mounting should as well.
So I guess what I was hoping for was a rigid, 50-year,
standoff mount with very low thermal conductivity. It sure
seems to me that others would have beaten this path down by
now. I'll keep looking.
Thanks for your replies.
--
croy