CS Front Area

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Nick Wertzberger

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Mar 11, 2013, 10:05:33 PM3/11/13
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Hey all, I would love to turn the front area into the clean, relaxing, programmer space it is meant to be.
Who else wants this!? I think that a small conference table, comfy chairs, and some sort of TV or projector for presentations should be a good start. Painting the walls and other stuff should be done too!

Any ideas?

I, personally, love what UNO has done with the whole PKI space and would love a similarly themed nook.

Once again, looking for others like me who want a place to code and interact with the hardware cats.

Thanks,

- Nick

Ben Hutcheson

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Mar 11, 2013, 10:10:07 PM3/11/13
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A projector is already in the works as soon as someone digs it out of the boxes and mounts it to the ceiling.  Chairs and tables sound like an excellent plan, just as long as we ensure there's still enough seating and open space that we can conduct meetings and presentations.  Of course, there's no requirement for the room to be arranged like a lecture hall ALL the time, it just needs to remain a realistic option without too much effort.

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David Gotrik

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Mar 11, 2013, 10:17:50 PM3/11/13
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I think we should paint at least one wall with chalkboard paint, that way we can draw pictures...tis a great way to exchange ideas!

Kevin Fusselman

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Mar 11, 2013, 10:53:14 PM3/11/13
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Sounds good to me.

There's a pair of pretty good tables now, and also plans in the works for the projector.

There's a bit of drywall finishing to do before it's ready for paint, but nothing major.

On Mar 11, 2013 9:05 PM, "Nick Wertzberger" <wert...@gmail.com> wrote:
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Eric J. Kaplan

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Mar 12, 2013, 6:57:35 AM3/12/13
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The current tables need just a little TLC on the table legs to ensure they stay attached to the tops. 

I've got a fair amount of drywall supplies (tape, joint compound, and plastic putty knives) that I can throw in to the mix if you can find volunteers willing and able to do a better job than me. 

Sent from Eric's iPhone

Chamelaeon Wombatowski

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Mar 12, 2013, 9:02:55 AM3/12/13
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I can take a whack at it next time I'm at the space. The thing I'm learning about drywall is that it's always easy to sand it down and try again if it looks bad.

On the topic of chalkboard paint though, I think the texturing on the wall panels would be an issue with paint-on writing stuff. We'd likely do better with a giant sheet of melamine or other material we could cut to size.

Jason Uher

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Mar 12, 2013, 9:11:46 AM3/12/13
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If you're going that route there's no need to paint - I bought some
3'x4' white "high gloss" composite panels at lowe's for about $10 each
a few years ago and now have the giant-est whiteboard ever.

tavshed

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Mar 12, 2013, 9:36:35 AM3/12/13
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I like the whiteboard idea.


- Mike

Chamelaeon Wombatowski

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Mar 12, 2013, 10:01:52 AM3/12/13
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I like the idea. Are there joiner pieces available to hide the seams?

Jason Uher

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Mar 12, 2013, 10:14:50 AM3/12/13
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The boards aren't technically for white boards, they just happen to be
white, high gloss, and flat enough to work well. You can buy
commercial strips to span the gaps but I'm pretty sure they're
expensive. Just mount the boards with some evenly applied adhesive so
they sit flush against the wall and the seams aren't really
noticeable.



On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 10:01 AM, Chamelaeon Wombatowski

Dan Linder

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Mar 12, 2013, 12:50:57 PM3/12/13
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On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 8:11 AM, Jason Uher <jaso...@gmail.com> wrote:
If you're going that route there's no need to paint - I bought some
3'x4' white "high gloss" composite panels at lowe's for about $10 each
a few years ago and now have the giant-est whiteboard ever.

That's an excellent method - very cheap to replace when they wear out in a few years.  (The old wall boards can become table top material.)  And if you use some 1x2 or similar screwed to the wall to make a frame you don't have to mess with glue when it's time to replace them.

I don't know the layout, but you might look at mounting the projector from the ceiling and setting up the bracket to rotate 90 or 360 degrees to project onto a couple of walls depending on peoples needs. 

Just brainstorming...

Dan

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Dan Linder

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Mar 12, 2013, 12:53:13 PM3/12/13
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On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 9:01 AM, Chamelaeon Wombatowski <chame...@gmail.com> wrote:
I like the idea. Are there joiner pieces available to hide the seams?

At a past company we tried that, and the plastic joints never did erase well and ended up a grey color compared to the wall.

We used 4x8 sheets of "tub/shower surround" from <insert favorite home improvement store name>, then held them to the wall with 1x2 screwed and painted/stained.

Dan

Kevin Fusselman

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Mar 12, 2013, 1:17:32 PM3/12/13
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There's really only one wall that has nothing on it and the appropriate level of darkness (the front wall).

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Jay Bendon

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Mar 12, 2013, 3:59:58 PM3/12/13
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here at google we literally just paint the (drywall)walls with a gloss paint and frame it in with some wood (you can also buy dry-erase specific paint which isn't terribly expensive).

--Jay

Eric Kaplan

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Mar 12, 2013, 4:22:21 PM3/12/13
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We have the dry-erase paint here at Omaha Fixture, but found that unless you get the wall very smooth, it doesn't work as well as desired.  Which was the original contention with the chalkboard paint.  I think the sheets of wall board would be best

Eric J. Kaplan                                       

David Knaack

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Mar 12, 2013, 4:31:56 PM3/12/13
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Showerboard works great if you keep some high quality whiteboard cleaner around (or paint it with dry-erase paint... anyone want to build a spin-coating rig for 4'x4' panels?). It tends to stain a lot more than commercial whiteboards, but it cleans up with a little work. Very serviceable, it just lacks the premium experience of a nice ceramic board.

Kevin Fusselman

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Mar 12, 2013, 5:07:13 PM3/12/13
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Agreed with Eric. We had paint-on whiteboards the last place I worked and they were horrible to keep clean. Shower board ftw.

Stephen Beck

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Mar 12, 2013, 9:04:49 PM3/12/13
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The best whiteboard I saw was applied as the whiteboard paint, except through an automotive paint sprayer. When done properly the finish is perfect. The surface needs to be flat (sheets of plastic or sheetmetal) prepped (use bondo to fill in the seams/screws/etc) primed and sanded.

Steve

On Mar 11, 2013 9:05 PM, "Nick Wertzberger" <wert...@gmail.com> wrote:
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