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Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 09:48:37 -0800
Message-ID: <CAC0tWtrcwB1wswzA45iq+MwyEHPovhMpZALzi_HmgvRm2K6...@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [VEG] Re: Winter gardening - hoop house suggestion?
From: Cindy Koczy <cindyko...@gmail.com>
To: "J...@NWVeg.org" <J...@nwveg.org>
Cc: steff <sluca...@comcast.net>,
Northwest VEG Veganic Gardening Group <nwveg-veganic-gardening@googlegroups.com>
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There was a formula of how much supplements to use in the garden( per sq.
footage)
, but I have since lost track of it.The potato patch area was the recipient
of most of the kitchen compost in early spring- the soil is so beautiful
now, and teaming with life!I had our dirt tested before I planned the
garden, it showed that we needed supplements of lime,I purchased green sand
and alfalfa pellet too- all from Concentrates, Inc.I rather like to apply
when I feel it's needed, not an exact science for me,but everything is
green,growing, thriving and taste's delicious!! Frost is expected tonight,I
will be blanketing my collard greens, and pick the last of the green beans,
and second planting of pea pods.Take all the chances you can to load up on
the Vit. D, the sun is shining ;)~
MAY YOUR EARTH WORMS PROSPER OVER THE WINTER!
Cindy
On Fri, Oct 21, 2011 at 5:59 PM, J...@NWVeg.org <J...@nwveg.org> wrote:
> Bonnie - re winter gardening & hoop houses: I agree with Stephanie, that
> 3' should be a sufficient height, and using a blanket too if it gets
> especially cold. I think it is going to be hard to start much from seed
> this late, except for maybe mache (corn salad.) Starts of kale and collards
> and other hardy greens should do well, and possibly an overwintering variety
> of cabbage for a late spring crop. And garlic cloves can still be set out
> too, and won't need cover. My experience with favas is the opposite of
> Stephanie's - maybe it depends on the variety, or else I've used too much
> nitrogen (succulent growth) when my beans have been taller? I've had better
> luck with favas that haven't been more than 2" before cold sets in, as long
> as they have already germinated. ****
>
> ** **
>
> My microclimate is about 6 degrees cooler than Portland, plus we tend to
> get frigid east winds tearing through the garden. I haven't used hoop
> houses for years, but I do mulch (even kale) heavily in the years a super
> cold snap is predicted. I'll bury plants in leaves, and often put deep
> plastic buckets or bins over them, with a brick on top to anchor. Most
> years all carrots and beets get a mulch of leaves and wood chips just before
> the hard freezes we get anytime from late Nov. through January. Parsnips
> seem to do fine without. ****
>
> ** **
>
> Cindy - I have used straw too, leftover from when my son used to do
> archery. We bought it from Linnton Seed & Feed, out on Hwy 30. You want
> straw rather than hay, as hay will have lots of seeds. I'm not a big fan of
> it, as it gets really slimy in our wet climate, and doesn't compost very
> quickly. I know lots of people like leaving potatoes in the ground, but I
> hate mucking about in the soil during winter, so I dig all mine in the fall.
> I store them in paper grocery bags in an unheated room in our house. I'm
> really envious of your huge harvests - what are you using to fertilize, and
> how much? ****
>
> ** **
> ------------------------------
>
--bcaec51b1cc94fde3d04b00f083c
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
There was a formula of how much supplements to use in the garden( per sq. f=
ootage)<br>, but I have since lost track of it.The potato patch area was th=
e recipient of most of the kitchen compost in early spring- the soil is so =
beautiful now, and teaming with life!I had our dirt tested before I planned=
the garden, it showed that we needed supplements of lime,I purchased green=
sand and alfalfa pellet too- all from Concentrates, Inc.I rather like to a=
pply when I feel it's needed, not an exact science for me,but everythin=
g is green,growing, thriving and taste's delicious!! Frost is expected =
tonight,I will be blanketing my collard greens, and pick the last of the gr=
een beans, and second planting of pea pods.Take all the chances you can to =
load up on the Vit. D, the sun is shining ;)~<br>
MAY YOUR EARTH WORMS PROSPER OVER THE WINTER!<br>Cindy<br><div class=3D"gma=
il_quote">On Fri, Oct 21, 2011 at 5:59 PM, J...@NWVeg.org <span dir=3D"ltr"=
><<a href=3D"mailto:J...@nwveg.org">J...@nwveg.org</a>></span> wrote:=
<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">
<div link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"blue" lang=3D"EN-US">
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Arial"><span style=3D"font-=
size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial">Bonnie - re winter gardening & hoop hous=
es:=A0 I agree
with Stephanie, that 3' should be a sufficient height, and using a blan=
ket too if
it gets especially cold.=A0 I think it is going to be hard to start much fr=
om
seed this late, except for maybe mache (corn salad.)=A0 Starts of kale and
collards and other hardy greens should do well, and possibly an overwinteri=
ng
variety of cabbage for a late spring crop.=A0 And garlic cloves can still b=
e set
out too, and won't need cover. My experience with favas is the opposite=
of
Stephanie's - maybe it depends on the variety, or else I've used to=
o much
nitrogen (succulent growth) when my beans have been taller?=A0 I've had=
better
luck with favas that haven't been more than 2" before cold sets in=
, as
long as they have already germinated.=A0 <u></u><u></u></span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Arial"><span style=3D"font-=
size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial"><u></u>=A0<u></u></span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Arial"><span style=3D"font-=
size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial">My microclimate is about 6 degrees cooler th=
an Portland, plus
we tend to get frigid east winds tearing through the garden.=A0 I haven'=
;t used
hoop houses for years, but I do mulch (even kale) heavily in the years a su=
per
cold snap is predicted. I'll bury plants in leaves, and often put deep =
plastic
buckets or bins over them, with a brick on top to anchor.=A0 Most years all
carrots and beets get a mulch of leaves and wood chips just before the hard
freezes we get anytime from late Nov. through January.=A0 Parsnips seem to =
do
fine without. <u></u><u></u></span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Arial"><span style=3D"font-=
size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial"><u></u>=A0<u></u></span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Arial"><span style=3D"font-=
size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial">Cindy - I have used straw too, leftover from=
when my son
used to do archery.=A0 We bought it from Linnton Seed & Feed, out on Hw=
y 30.=A0
You want straw rather than hay, as hay will have lots of seeds.=A0 I'm =
not a big
fan of it, as it gets really slimy in our wet climate, and doesn't comp=
ost very
quickly. I know lots of people like leaving potatoes in the ground, but I h=
ate
mucking about in the soil during winter, so I dig all mine in the fall. I s=
tore
them in paper grocery bags in an unheated room in our house.=A0 I'm rea=
lly
envious of your huge harvests - what are you using to fertilize, and how mu=
ch?=A0
<u></u><u></u></span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Arial"><span style=3D"font-=
size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial"><u></u>=A0<u></u></span></font></p>
<div>
<div class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-align:center" align=3D"center"><font=
size=3D"3" face=3D"Times New Roman"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">
<hr size=3D"2" width=3D"100%" align=3D"center">
</span></font></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote></div><br>
--bcaec51b1cc94fde3d04b00f083c--
Message from discussion Winter gardening - hoop house suggestion?
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