Quoth Mike Harrison at 2010-02-09 21:13...
> You may get some regulation issues if different parts ofOK, might try that. I don't think that regulation will be a real issue
> the winding have different loadings. For low-power apps
> it probably works - it's not normally done on conventional
> step-down flybacks as the optimum thickness of wire will
> be different for different windings.
with the various supplies for the dekatrons. Logic will be on a
separate supply anyway.
Quoth David Forbes at 2010-02-10 02:12...
> The start end labeling assumes winding all windings in the sameI really was just asking that out of curiosity - wanted to know if my
> direction. Why would you wind in two different directions?
understanding of phasing was correct or not. Haven't done anything like
that since college and that was over 20 years of dead braincells ago.
> Yes, you can have as many secondaries as you like. I put fiveTies in with what I understood from Application Note 19. Feedback for
> secondaries on my scope clock transformer. Only one of them will be
> tightly regulated, but that is not a problem for "digital" loads such
> as Dekatrons.
regulation comes off the most critical secondary, other secondaries get
something approximating to the relevant turns ratio.
> Kapton tape is a fine gap maker. The formula for gap assumes only theAh, that's good! Gapping sounded too much like a Black Art. "A bit of
> center leg has a gap ground into it, so if you use tape, make your
> gap half as thick as the calculations say. But I've found that the
> gap size is not at all critical. Having it at all is critical.
tape is good enough" sounds like one less variable with which to be
> I'd stick with 12V if I were you. I made a bunch of flyback suppliesI think I will. I'm not unduly worried about working with 240V - it's
> with mains input, but I wouldn't do it again.
240V coming from a 15A breaker that tends to worry me. Plenty of time
for something to catch fire before the breaker finally trips. The
LT1171 has onboard current limiting - it should never pull more than the
rated current. Pop in a fuse between there and the DC supply and the
risk of conflagration should be minimised.
Now all I need to do is to build a turns counter so I can actually start
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