fish cooking

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Leon Aristizabal

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Oct 11, 2007, 8:49:30 AM10/11/07
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Salt dehydrates and toughens the proteins. So the logical thing to do is to place the fish, aprox. 1 hr in water, in refrigeration. Now, from the point of view of safety, bacteria grows up to 62ºC, so to "cook" a food with a pH above 4,5 at a temp under 65ºC is to play "Russian roulette"
Laristi

Sølve Huse

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Oct 11, 2007, 9:06:51 AM10/11/07
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The fish is first desaltet for up to 4 days in refrigeration before cooking it.
I was thinking the salting of the fish is a preserving technique in the first place.... to prevent bacteria growth?
In Joan Rocas book “sous vide” i presents a recipe that suggest 55 degrees for cooking desalted bacalao. Would he suggest this if it wasn´t safe?
Mainly half of that book is about food safety.

S



On 11-10-07 14:49, "Leon Aristizabal" <lari...@gmail.com> wrote:

James...@fabi.up.ac.za

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Oct 11, 2007, 9:22:08 AM10/11/07
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I did microbiology as an undergrad degree so I can confirm that salt is used
in food preservation. It won't necessarily prevent bacteria from growing, it'll
just dry out the meat. Bacteria usually need quite a bit of moisture to grow
and survive, so they might be present on the meat, but not necessarily at a
high enough number to cause a safety risk.

Leon Aristizabal

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Oct 11, 2007, 9:49:38 AM10/11/07
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When you dehydrate you preserve against microorganisms, then you keep it in water for 4 days, now you have moisture. Anex. is a graph from de Australian gov.


 
Temp-danger-zone-Big.gif

Jack

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Oct 11, 2007, 10:06:28 AM10/11/07
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Its a little more complex than that since safe holding temperatures are not absolute but have a time component,

See http://www.hi-tm.com/Documents2001/time-temp-calculations.html  CALCULATING THE TOTAL GROWTH OF BACTERIA IN COOKED FOOD USING THE FDA CODE CONTROLS by  O. Peter Snyder, Jr., Ph.D Hospitality Institute of Technology and Management)

He says

The US FDA Food Code, is, a simplification and scientifically wrong because pathogen growth actually starts at about 29.3ºF and stops, for all practical purposes, at 125ºF. The speed of growth depends on the temperature. The FDA codes appear to be based on a maximum of a 10x generations (doubling) of pathogens such as Listeria onocytogenes at 41ºF and Salmonella / Staphylococcus aureus at 115ºF. Based on this we can extrapolate to other temperatures,”

 

 

Similarly we can calculate safe cooking times as a function of temperature (adapted from http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/fc01-3.html#3-4 )

 

 

Jack Lang

Cambridge UK

 

 

 

 

 

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James...@fabi.up.ac.za

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Oct 11, 2007, 10:27:48 AM10/11/07
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Well, Jack is correct. The point that I think needs to be made is that the
growth of bacteria (I won't say microorganisms because microorganisms are
more than just the bacteria in this case; there's also fungi, algae, viruses,
etc.) is not just about how much water there is or the temperature or the
time, it's all of these. Think about a person; they need warmth, water, and
food to stay alive. Bacteria are similar.

Thinking about your problem, it makes sense to put the bowl of water with
the fish in it into the refrigerator. Typical internal temperature for a fridge is
4ºC. Basic physics says that water is less likely to change it's temperature
as much as atmospheric temperature (hence it's use in car radiators, etc.)
so the water is likely to remain at 4ºC even if the fridge door is opened
several times a day. So after four days temperature of the water should be
4ºC, assuming that that is the temperature your fridge is set at 4ºC.

Jorge Ruiz

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Oct 11, 2007, 12:07:46 PM10/11/07
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Hi all (Jorge Ruiz, Professor of Food Science)

There is the called "hurdle effect". That is, all potential hurdles
preventing microbial growth (water activity, temperature, pH and so on)
work together (water activity os a measurement of the amount of free water
for microorganism, it is nearly 1 in raw fish or meat, in which all most
of the water is available, and it is lower when the product has been
dehydrated and/or salted, because salt makes the water not available for
microorganisms). I think there is no problem with desalting cod at 4ºC for
4 days. In fact, only a very few poisoning bacteria can grow below 4ºC,
and not at the water activity of salted cod. The problem is that most home
fridges do not reach 4ºC (mine is frequently at 7ºC...).

The other problem is to cook at (let's say) 50ºC. At this temperature most
bacteria survive (or even their growth is enhanced). However, given that
the time that the fish is kept at this temperature is not long, and that
the fish is immediately consumed after cooking (at least, this is the
recommended procedure), the microbial risk is not that high (from my point
of view, more or less the same as with raw fish). Well, another day we can
talk about another risk with this way of cooking: Anisakis.

By the way, I know the book from Roca quite well. Despite their efforts in
considering food safety, it's much better to go directly to a food safety
book to check these items.


Cheers


--

Jorge Ruiz Carrascal
Tecnología de Alimentos
Facultad de Veterinaria UEx
Campus Universitario s/n
10071 Cáceres
SPAIN

personal webpage: http://higiene.unex.es/weborges/orges.html
blog: http://www.lamargaritaseagita.com/index.php/weblog/C3/

Tfn.: +34 927 257123
Fax: +34 927 257110

Nathan Myhrvold

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Oct 11, 2007, 12:27:37 PM10/11/07
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Food safety is a complicated topic – one result is that any simple rule you are told is probably wrong. 

 

Jack is correct in what he says below.  Holding time depends on temperature.   Soaking salt cod in cold water in a refrigerator is safe – probably about as safe as holding fresh fish (i.e. a couple days).

 

Fish can be eaten raw (sushi) if it is fresh and clean.    Once you start to cook with heat, the amount is up to you.   Nearly any internal temperature for cooking fish will not sufficient to sterilize it and kill all bacteria, but if the time is short this is fine.  Most food is consumed without being sterilized (salad!).  As Jorge said in another email, so long as the time involved between cold storage, and consumption is short enough, this is OK.

 

So, the temperature for salt cod is up to you – it depends on what effect you want.  At different temperatures (and times) you get different texture.    

 

You can’t give a temperature / time combination without knowing what end result you want, and ultimately this is personal preference. Many traditional recipes for fish overcook it (by my taste at least).   This is particularly true for traditional salt cod recipes.  But sometimes people are accustomed to the traditional texture, so they object if it is lower.

 

I prefer most cold water fish at 45C internal temperature.    Salmon is generally best at 40C, and escolar or tuna at 38C.

 

Nathan


 

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Ed Charles

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Oct 11, 2007, 4:36:29 PM10/11/07
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I wouldn't take any notice of any Australian government charts - they are over cautious specifying that meat must be cooked at over 58C.

Dr Peter Bareham was just down here and said:

99% of Salmonella are dead after 5 mins at 75C .

60C for 45 mins or 58C for a few hours kills them.

He said that under 53C could be a problem.

The bacteria needs air and by cooking sous vide, isolating it from the air, helps kill Salmonella.

Ed Charles

Journalism:


The Tomato blog:





<Temp-danger-zone-Big.gif>

Jorge Ruiz

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Oct 12, 2007, 1:48:42 AM10/12/07
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BE CAREFUL!!

There are different bacteria groups. Some may grow in absence of oxygen
(moreover, they need absence of oxygen: they are the so called anaerobic
bacteria). In fact, Clostridium botulinum or Clostridium perfringens (both
anaerobic)are among the potential risk in sous-vide products, because they
are anaerobic bacteria and can resist quite high temperatures.

Some other bacteria can grow with or without oxygen (facultative
anaerobic; for example E. Coli O157). So, absence of oxygen is great for
avoiding Salmonella and aeobic microorganisms, but not for others.

Cheers

Sølve Huse

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Oct 12, 2007, 2:33:11 AM10/12/07
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Thanks everyone for info about bacteria growth. I will keep this in mind.
Makes me almost think I'm lucky for having survived so far. ;-)

As for the end result versus time/temp combination it makes sense for me to
use a higher internal temperature. With fresh fish I would definitely go for
a much lower internal temp, but bacalao is though and rubbery in its raw
state (even when desalted for 4 days), and my experience is that it actually
softens and gets more moist when it reaches internal temp of 65 degrees
Celsius.

Sølve

Jack

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Oct 12, 2007, 4:10:11 AM10/12/07
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Fortunately Clostridium spp are destroyed in a mildly acid environment, so
add some lemon juice or even white wine to the cooking medium.
Fish has little connective tissue so the cooking time is really just for the
temperature to stabilise; there is no point in extended cooking times unlike
in meat where it assists the collagen to convert and dissolve.
I guess it depends how you intend to further process or serve the salt
cod.Othen the texture will be changed, for example in a fishcake.
It is said the Portuguese have over 1000 recipes for Bacalhau, and certainly
more than one for each day of the year.
Personally, I am very fond of a truffled brandade.

Jack Lang

Jorge Ruiz

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Oct 12, 2007, 5:49:50 AM10/12/07
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Jack,

You should not give this kind of advises. It is true that Cl. botulinum
does not grow below 4.6 pH, but you need quite an amount of lemon to reach
this pH. In addition, there are studies in which at an even lower pH,
Clostridium botulinum could grow in meat and soy, probably due to a
protective effect of proteins.


As far as connective tissue in fish is concerned, it is not only that the
amount is much lower than in meat (there are many different fish, of
course), but a question of a different type of collagen (it becomes
solubilized at a lower temeprature) and of a different structure:
connective tissue in meat surrounds every single muscle fibre, every
bundle of fibres, and every muscle, while in fish it is mainly
constituting the septa (myosepta) that separate the muscles (myotomes).

Cheers


--

Jorge Ruiz Carrascal
Tecnología de Alimentos/Food Science


Facultad de Veterinaria UEx
Campus Universitario s/n
10071 Cáceres
SPAIN

Tfn.: +34 927 257123
Fax: +34 927 257110

Robert CAUCHI

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Oct 12, 2007, 10:30:34 AM10/12/07
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Anyone can advice on how to make a fish mousse look like the centre of Aero chocolate bar, in other words a fish mousse with air bubles inside (mousse to be served warm).
thanks
robertcauchi

Judd Howie

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Oct 12, 2007, 10:43:44 AM10/12/07
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Hi all!

 

Greetings from sunny Sydney!

It’s great to see the list up and running again, some excellent and informative discussion.

I’m a chef and (now) chef recruiter for roles around the globe and am in contact with several hundred chefs a month. Not only is this discussion list very helpful and interesting to me, but it would also be for the professionals I communicate with on a daily basis.

 

Would the list have any objections to me linking it in my next newsletter at all?

 

 

Our September 07 Chef Newsletter has just gone online here.

Please check www.hostec.com.au/chefjobs often for our latest available chef roles worldwide.

Kind regards,

Judd Howie
Executive Consultant - Culinary
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Hong Kong: +852 36786736  Singapore: +65 66226400 
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Robert CAUCHI

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Oct 12, 2007, 10:49:57 AM10/12/07
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No objections from my side.
robertcauchi

 
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Regards

Robert CAUCHI

John Placko

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Oct 12, 2007, 10:58:52 AM10/12/07
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I'm ok with it as well.

John Placko
Corporate Chef
Campbell Company of Canada
"Extraordinary, Authentic Nourishment for All"
416 251-1131 ext. 8802
Fax: 416 253-8659

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Judd Howie

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Oct 12, 2007, 11:06:52 AM10/12/07
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I just think the type of discussions happening here are so beneficial to chefs around the world that are wanting to learn a little more re MG in general.

Your average (or even above average) chef these days is only dipping his toe in the water when it comes to this area of food, would be great to bring the movement into the main stream a little further as it is very much mainly supported by research chefs, food scientists and the extremely self motivated/interested at the moment.

 

Our September 07 Chef Newsletter has just gone online here.

Please check www.hostec.com.au/chefjobs often for our latest available chef roles worldwide.

Kind regards,

Judd Howie
Executive Consultant - Culinary
globalsearch

Sydney : +61 2 80020222  London: +44 20 81146105  New York: +1 917 2101223
Hong Kong: +852 36786736  Singapore: +65 66226400 
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This email & any attachments are confidential and may contain copyright material of Hostec or third parties. If you are not the intended recipient of this email you should not read, distribute, copy, print, store or act in reliance on this email or any of its attachments. The email is intended for the use of the individual to which it is addressed & may contain information that is privileged and confidential. If you have received this email in error, please immediately advise the sender by return email, and delete the message from your system. Hostec respects your privacy. Our privacy policy can be accessed from our web site.

 

From: molecular-...@googlegroups.com [mailto:molecular-...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of John Placko


Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 12:59 AM
To: molecular-...@googlegroups.com

Leon Aristizabal

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Oct 12, 2007, 11:21:41 AM10/12/07
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It would be a pleasure

2007/10/12, Judd Howie <judd...@gmail.com>:

Marc Nicholas

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Oct 12, 2007, 12:52:48 PM10/12/07
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Add some liquid soy lecithin and aerate with a cappuccino whipper?

-marc

Jack

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Oct 12, 2007, 1:06:49 PM10/12/07
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As list owner I have been very pleased with the response so far. Please do
link to the list, and help spread the word.
AT the moment the list is open.
However any spam or off topic messages resulting from a wider audience will
be dealt with severely.

Best
Jack

John Placko

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Oct 12, 2007, 1:28:35 PM10/12/07
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Good move Jack


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack" [Ja...@lang.net]
Sent: 10/12/2007 06:06 PM CET
To: <molecular-...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [MG] Re: The list

Best
Jack

Andrea Ossola

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Oct 22, 2007, 10:30:50 AM10/22/07
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Hi Everybody,

I have been trying to do "airs" "Clouds" and "shaving Cream" with lecithin, xantan & metilcellulose somehow as soon there is some sugar in the liquid yield less than a sugar-free liquid.

As any of you faced the same or do you want to share your recipe? ......I have tried to sweeten with spelda and assugrin and it works but I have a problem how those product taste...

I was looking as well for Cuisson Sous Vide material, especially the Dangerous part of this cooking technique if done improperly... all about toxin, bacteria formation etc....

Thanks & have a terrific day

Andrea

Leon Aristizabal

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Oct 28, 2007, 5:12:51 PM10/28/07
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Please send ingredients and steps, and see if we can help you

2007/10/22, Andrea Ossola <Andrea...@fourseasons.com>:
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