Any suggestions about spraying the oil primer (is it a good idea, or a
bad one) and any suggestions on the type of sprayer?
Thanks.
I don't think you are supposed to use oil under latex.......
Sue
>
> Thanks.
>
> We are looking at purchasing a spray painter to paint the outside of our
> house, garage and quanset, then this fall paint the inside of our
> house. We want to spray the oil primer coat, then spray the latex coat
> but have been told that there is no good sprayer that sprays the oil
> primer coat.
I suspect that you are going to apply an alkyd primer. Alkyd is not oil,
it is a heavy alcohol base. An airless will spray alkyd primer just
fine.
> Any suggestions about spraying the oil primer (is it a good idea, or a
> bad one) and any suggestions on the type of sprayer?
Just about any airless will do the job. I painted my place with a Wagner
airless (not a Power Painter, and actual airless sprayer) that I picked
up at Harbor Freight for $149. I replaced the 25' hose with a 50'. It
did the interior of several rooms, all of the doors and cabinets inside
my house, and the exterior of the house. It's a pain in the butt cheap-
assed pile of junk. Every time I put it away, no matter how carefully I
oil the pump, the uptake valve sticks shut. I have to use my air
compressor to blow it open, then it works fine until I put it away again.
One of these days I'll have to throw it away, but I figure it has already
paid for itself several times over. I'm going to paint the barn and wood
shed this summer, and if it lasts through that I'm done painting for a
few years.
Campbell-Hausfield also has a consumer grade airless for under $200.
>
> I don't think you are supposed to use oil under latex.......
Huh?
The reverse MAY be true but priming with oil is close to being the
"standard."
>
> Sue
>
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
>
>
Move your car, motorcycle, etc. way the hell _upwind_ of where you're
painting. Expensive lesson for me....you would not believe how far
that overspray can travel.
Thanks, I wasn't sure....
Sue
>
> >
> > Sue
> >
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Wear goggles and a mask. You also do not want to breathe any of that stuff.
Sue
> There are exceptions, but you should probably be
> using a newer paint formulation. It will look better, wear better,
> last longer, cost less, protect the wood better and be more
> environmentally safe. You can use any sprayer with the newer alcohol
> based paints. The key to a good job is the prep work. Count on the
> prep taking 2-3x as long as painting.
Yeah, what he said. The reason oil based paints are not as good as
modern paints is the EPA rules on VOCs - Volatile Organic Compounds.
Paint research has just about stopped on oil base for this reason. All
the neat new paint chemistry has focused on non-toxic paints that don't
pollute the atmosphere. Resistance to oxidation, ultraviolet and peeling
has really improved.
As Rick says, the key to a good paint job is prep. TSP wash, pressure
wash, scrape, pressure wash, caulk and prime. For the scrape step I used
wire brushes with scrapers on the end, and a lot of elbow grease. Even
after TSP and a push broom, followed by a pressure wash, wire brushing
left a pretty good pile of paint flakes on the ground.
I did my house last year. After the second pressure wash, the south side
of my house was showing a lot of bare wood. I caulked all the cracks,
hit it with a coat of alkyd primer, then sprayed and back rolled two
coats of Miller AcriLite acrylic latex.
It's easy to lay on too much paint with an airless. Two thin coats are
much better than one thick coat.
It's the other way around: don't use latex under oil.
Been there, done that, ruined the t-shirt.
--
Crouching Tiger, Hidden Gimp - now out of the cast and the splint, but
not yet ready for hoops or rough ground