Painting
Robbie Felix
sprayer for painting some interior walls? It seems like a good idea,
especially since we have to paint the ceiling in one room. I have
never used a compressor/sprayer and wonder if there is any special
skill needed or any pitfalls I ought to watch out for...
thanks in advance.
rf
bill nelson
: Is there anything I need to know about renting an airbrush-type paint
One thing that will happen is that you will get spray all over everything.
If possible, rent a good "airless" spray gun. They use hydraulic pressure
on the paint itself, instead of air, to force the paint through the gun.
There is far less overspray, so cleanup is much easier. You do not want
an airbrush - you want a full sized spray gun.
I personally would not use a sprayer indoors - no matter what type you use,
it is too messy. I would use rollers and brushes. Considering the time it
takes to cover furniture and floor, etc - as well as cleanup time, it will
probably take as long using the sprayer as it would with rollers. You also
get better paint adhesion when you use a roller. Often, paint that is just
sprayed on will rub off quite easily.
Bill
Peter Brooks
>
>probably take as long using the sprayer as it would with rollers. You also
>get better paint adhesion when you use a roller. Often, paint that is just
>
last go-round, I'm not so sure. I rolled Glidden Satin on my bedroom
walls (the bedroom from hell project, naturally :-), and discovered
that I had to be fanatical about maintaining a wet edge. If I got
near a semi-dried section, the roller would pick up the 5-10minutes
old paint like crazy. I've had this happen with semi-gloss before,
but never with the flatter grades. I'm wondering if the formulation
changes that have hit various finishes (including latex) and have
made varnishing such a challenge have contributed to this. It
was a warm day, but not outrageously hot. Seems a shame to have to
use two coats to get off-white over white because of the lifting.
With a sprayer, this would/should be a moot point.
BTW, the lifting also occured when I used a brush to touch up sections.
I presume it's the paint. If it's unique to Glidden, I'd be glad to
hear. If it's unuique to that project, I wouldn't be surprised. Have
to check the city archives; I think Murphy and family owned the place...
Pete Brooks
Joe Korty
> I've been a roller user than I want to think about, but after the last
> go-round, I'm not so sure. I rolled Glidden Satin on my bedroom walls
> [...], and discovered that I had to be fanatical about maintaining a
> wet edge. If I got near a semi-dried section, the roller would pick up
> the 5-10minutes old paint like crazy. [...] BTW, the lifting also
> occured when I used a brush to touch up sections. I presume it's the paint.
I have had a similar problem with my house. According to my Sherwin
Williams dealer, this is a common problem and is due to improper
surface preparation at the time the room was originally painted.
Contract painters like to first spray on `orange peel', a self-leveling
compound. It consists of a powder and a resin mixed on-site by the
painter. But because resin is expensive, painters are tempted to skimp
on it. The result is that the leveling compound, being too powdery,
does not adhere well either to the wall or to the paint.
The painters get away with it because no symptoms show until the room
is repainted one or more times. There are two symptoms which indicate
the problem: recently dampened paint peels off too easily on the roller
(a light case of resin deficit), and `mud cracks' form as the paint
dries (a bad case).
One solution is to roll with a light touch. For rooms with moderate resin
deficit, this works well. Otherwise, your only alternative is to scrape
off the old paint, sand off most of the orange peel, patch up the damage,
and finally prime the wall with an enamel-based primer made especially
for the purpose. I have thought of trying to steam off the old paint,
minimizing the wall damage, but haven't done that yet.
joe korty
uunet!modcomp!joe
Myuriel T. Kim - UCS
We recently bought a house. We need to install a safety fence around the pool because we
have a two-year old. We called PROTECT-A-CHILD POOL FENCE to give us an estimate, and for
the 48" high, 55 ft long fence they gave us a quote of 500+ (aluminum poles) and 700+ for
fiberglass poles. My husband and I were thinking of doing this job ourselves. Has anybody
done this before? Is it worth the trouble? What kind of drill did you use (we have a
chatahochee patio)? Any other tips?
Please e-mail any advice.
Thanks!
Myuriel T. Kim
myu...@rocky.fiu.edu
Florida International University