Carpetlaying: Am I in over my head?
Kevin Finley
Bob,
I would like to give you some advise based on expierence.
I purchaed a home that also had a cat urine problem. I tried
everything you could possibly think of to eliminate the oder.
Nothing worked. Do yourself a favor, tear out the carpet and
replace with new carpet. You'll be glad you did.
Kevin
chris Hill
In article <bobmacdE...@netcom.com>,
bob...@netcom.com (Bob MacDowell) wrote:
>I'm trying to *seriously* clean some wall-wall carpets (cat urine).
>I have to pull the carpet up to treat both sides with special enzymes,
>and I have to replace the carpet pads with new (they're uncleanable).
>The carpets are secured with tack-strips (wooden strips with little nails
>pointing up at an angle) and it's easy to remove.
>
>But I'm worried if I'll be able to get the carpet back down OK.
he best way to get it back down is by restretching it. You should be
able to rent a stretcher, or have the carpet guy restretch it. He
should be able to do that in a couple of minutes. On the seam, the best
way is to go ahead and break the seam and have it reseamed with seam
tape and a seaming iron. I wouldn't hold my breath on getting the smell
out. If the carpet is really sewn together, it is probably pretty old
anyway, and replacing it might be a better deal.
--
email:hil...@socketis.net Columbia, Missouri, or there-abouts.
chita jing
Bob MacDowell wrote:
>
> I'm trying to *seriously* clean some wall-wall carpets (cat urine).
> So am I just in over my head, or does a reasonably skilled (but tool-less)
> handyman have the means to pull this off? (or rather, put it back on :-)?
Naw, the mechanical part isn't the problem. You can rent the
equipment you'd need - IF this wasn't a cat urine problem. Frankly,
you'd be ahead if you just started shopping for new carpet. And pad. And
maybe some subfloor renewal. If it's concrete, you could end up with
concrete sealer.
People who think they've "solved" a cat urine problem often have
nice friends who lie to them... When you live in something, your nose
gets immune. (Some of the odor killers work that way - they don't really
kill the odor, they paralyze the nose.)
BTW, in my experience, plain old vinegar works about as well as the
most expensive enzyme or cleaner or zeolite or ... you name it, I've
tried it.
--
ch...@worldnet.att.net <chita jing>
--> CLICK! <--
Robert E. Anders
> >I'm trying to *seriously* clean some wall-wall carpets (cat urine).
> >and I have to replace the carpet pads with new (they're uncleanable).
> >The carpets are secured with tack-strips (wooden strips with little nails
> >pointing up at an angle) and it's easy to remove.
> >
> >But I'm worried if I'll be able to get the carpet back down OK.
> he best way to get it back down is by restretching it. You should be
> able to rent a stretcher, or have the carpet guy restretch it. He
> should be able to do that in a couple of minutes. On the seam, the best
> way is to go ahead and break the seam and have it reseamed with seam
> tape and a seaming iron. I wouldn't hold my breath on getting the smell
> out. If the carpet is really sewn together, it is probably pretty old
> anyway, and replacing it might be a better deal.
> --
> email:hil...@socketis.net Columbia, Missouri, or there-abouts.
I just did the same thing. I only had to replace the outer 18" of the pad.
I rented a stretcher and knee knicker to relay the carpet. I will tell you
it does take more than a couple of minutes to set up the stretcher, stretch
a part of the carpet, use the knee kicker to secure the carpet to the tackless
strip, reposition the stretcher, and do it all again. It did work out and I
was pleased with the result. Good luck.
Bob A.