Wikipedia concurs at an outside diameter of 1.0625 inches and a pitch of
11.5 tpi ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garden_hose ) but
rec.crafts.metalworking say it's O.D. is 1.031. and has 11.5 TPI.
Early in April of 2004, the folks at rec.crafts.metalworking had some
information but not enough (http://tinyurl.com/az4p9). They concluded
nobody makes taps and dies for garden hose thread, I believe.
"A garden hose connector has a nominal size designation of 1 inch, the
actual O.D. is 1.031. and has 11.5 TPI. 1.031 is real close to the O.D.
of 3/4 inch pipe (1.050) but 3/4 inch pipe is threaded at 14 TPI. 1-inch
pipe has an O.D. of 1.315. and has 11.5 TPI. So it looks like straight or
tapered isn't the problem, no pipe die is near the correct size."
and
"Hose coupling threads do not match any standard NPS or NPT thread.
The pitch diameter (0.9875"-1.0060") is almost the same as 3/4"-NPS
(0.9820"-0.9873"), but the 11.5 TPI pitch matches 1"-NPS, not
3/4"-NPS (14 TPI)."
and
"The thread spec. for garden hose fittings is ANSI/ASME B1.20.7 (see
Machinery's Handbook) and the designation is NHR" 1-800-993-4353 (Field
Tool Supply).
Those at misc.consumers.frugal-living found a freely available tap and die
set but I can't seem to find their link anymore.
http://www.craftkb.com/Uwe/Forum.aspx/metalworking/11243/Tap-Die-for-hose-threads
"If you mean garden hose, the proper designations are:
.75-11.5NH (cut, formed, or rolled)
.75-11.5NHR (thin wall formed)
However, I don't see how you could make these with just a tap or die,
as they involve a pilot, a relief, and a different lead-in thread angle,
not just threads. Google ".75-11.5NH tap die" = 0 hits."
http://www.diy-forum.net/re-garden-hose-end-re-thread-die-t120356.html
"As noted, you're probably not going to find a die or tap for a garden
hose thread. The problem is, the male ends aren't cut threads anyway
on anything except perhaps the brass NPT/hose adapters--they're formed.
The female ends are so shallow that you would need a bottom tap and
probably couldn't reach but a portion of the first thread, anyway, even
if you had one."
the male ends aren't cut threads anyway
> on anything except perhaps the brass NPT/hose adapters--they're formed.
Not always. There are machined brass ends available---but rarely (if ever)
found on cheap hoses.
I have machined brass ends on many of my hoses (I am a retired machinist---I
know the difference).
Harold
> Not always. There are machined brass ends available---but rarely (if ever)
> found on cheap hoses.
> I have machined brass ends on many of my hoses (I am a retired machinist---I
> know the difference).
>
> Harold
Machined maybe, but not with a tap. More than likely they're either a
cut on a CNC lathe or thread milled or whirled on a dedicated machine.
http://www.widell.com/popular%20special%20supplement%2004-09-01.pdf
Scroll down to 3/4-11-1/2. You will see a garden hose size tap listed.
Don't know about the die though.
What most people do to clean up a garden hose is take an old garden hose
with good GHT fittings and slice a sharp channel crosswise across the
threads with a triangular file. This self-tapping channel should be shallow
at the beginning and as deep as you can get it near the bottom.
Then they use this "thread cutter" as a thread chaser on all their garden
hoses. Works both for the male and female ends of your lawn garden hose.
If you can find steel garden hose repair fittings, it works even better
than the sliced brass garden hose fittings to clean up the threads.
No, "most people" certainly do not bother. They will either cut the
hose and install a repair end, or throw the entire hose away.
The garden hoses I see for sale, even the so-called "good" ones, have
stamped brass ends. These are not re-threadable, or repairable in any
way. They must be sliced off and replaced.
Ho-ho! You must be in another newsgroup. Here on RCM, we'd machine a female
die from A1 tool steel, calculate a appropriate load of Red Dot powder and
primer, and re-shape the end with explosive forming. As a bonus, it would
really clean out the inside of that hose.
It couldn't take more than four or five hours of work to save us from having
to buy a $3 replacement end. d8-)
--
Ed Huntress
Chuckle... :)
I've done things like re-round them after crushing, certainly, but not
by explosive forming...
--
Or hand write the G-code to CNC a pattern and then cast a new end. But
first you have to build the machinery and the furnace...
And Bullseye would be better for explosive forming than Red Dot.
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