How do you get those labels off the vitamin and nuts plastic jars
SF Man
cheeses from Costco but some labels come off easily while others fall into
a million pieces.
Is there a TRICK to removing the label from these jars?
Maybe a mechanical technique (I try to peal from all edges, sloooooowly,
stopping as soon as I get a tear).
Or better yet, some secret solvent?
Colbyt
"SF Man" <lavo...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:i8j28l$ncn$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
Many come off easy after soaking in the sink with med-hot water and a little
soap. Some of the others require goo gone or something like it to remove
the residue. The mixed nut jars are the absolute worst. Maybe they will
read this and modify the glue. -:)
If the warm water and a little soap works you are way ahead by recycling and
not buying storage containers at the BORG. If you factor in the cost of a
solvent, I am not so sure you come out ahead.
I find the peanut butter jars to be the best overall size and easy removal
for storing stuff on the truck. Compared to buying storage containers at
Wally World I eat the peanut butter for a net cost of about 50 cents a jar.
Pretty darn cheap lunch.
--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com
Oren
wrote:
Soak the label with a dab of vegetable oil. Another method is peanut
butter. The oils soak the label and wash off -- after awhile.
aemeijers
Veg oil, PB, goo-gone, goop hand cleaner. Kinda like stripping
wallpaper- you need to scuff the surface so it can get down into the
paper. I always try a dry peeling first, though. It all depends on how
tight the labeling machine was set that day, how well the glue was
applied, how well the mold release was washed off the bottles, how hot
the container got in transit. Sometimes you get lucky.
--
aem sends...
HeyBub
Permanent labels are often removed with Rubber Cement thinner. At least
that's what's used to remove permanent labels on books.
Susan Bugher
Yup - mineral spirits. Soak the labeled container in dishwater first. If
after a bit of rubbing the paper part of the label comes off but there
is still a sticky patch, pour a small amount of mineral spirits (aka
paint thinner) on a paper towel (or rag) and rub the sticky patch until
it's gone. That almost always does the trick.
Susan
Rod Speed
> I've started using the plastic containers for vitamins and mixed nuts
> and cheeses from Costco but some labels come off easily while others
> fall into a million pieces.
> Is there a TRICK to removing the label from these jars?
Nope, what works varys with the glue originally used.
I only use the glass jars myself and some of the labels come
off with a single cycle thru the dishwasher, and some dont.
> Maybe a mechanical technique (I try to peal from all edges,
> sloooooowly, stopping as soon as I get a tear).
Fraid not.
> Or better yet, some secret solvent?
Yes, you basically need a higher molecular weight solvent like kerosene
for the aggressive glue that doesnt come off in the dishwasher.
There are some commercial solvents that work, but they arent that cheap.
And they arent all suitable for plastic containers either, particularly not acetone/nail polish remover.
dpb
> SF Man wrote:
>
>> I've started using the plastic containers for vitamins and mixed nuts
>> and cheeses from Costco but some labels come off easily while others
>> fall into a million pieces.
>
>> Is there a TRICK to removing the label from these jars?
>
> Nope, what works varys with the glue originally used.
>
> I only use the glass jars myself and some of the labels come
> off with a single cycle thru the dishwasher, and some dont.
That's where I'd start, certainly...
--
hchi...@hotmail.com
<rod.sp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>SF Man wrote:
>
>> I've started using the plastic containers for vitamins and mixed nuts
>> and cheeses from Costco but some labels come off easily while others
>> fall into a million pieces.
>
>> Is there a TRICK to removing the label from these jars?
>
>Nope, what works varys with the glue originally used.
>
>I only use the glass jars myself and some of the labels come
>off with a single cycle thru the dishwasher, and some dont.
>
>> Maybe a mechanical technique (I try to peal from all edges,
>> sloooooowly, stopping as soon as I get a tear).
>
>Fraid not.
>
>> Or better yet, some secret solvent?
>
>Yes, you basically need a higher molecular weight solvent like kerosene
>for the aggressive glue that doesnt come off in the dishwasher.
Total drivel.
>There are some commercial solvents that work, but they arent that cheap.
Idiotic response from the village idiot
>And they arent all suitable for plastic containers either, particularly not acetone/nail polish remover.
Ask him how he knows that. Free meds, never used properly, tons of
bottles and lots of time.
Now that he's killed the newsgroup he wants more suckers to come back
so he can drool on them, so he starts playing nice. Hey dickwad -
talk to the hand.
Stormin Mormon
1) peel, as you mentioned
2) soak overnight in hot water
3) Scrape labels with fingernails to remove what you can
4) if you can get under the foil or paper, let the bottles dry out.
Then spray with WD-40 and scrape with fingernails. Wipe off the
resulting sludge with paper towels
The idea is to mix techniques. Mechanical, water, mechanical,
solvent, mechanical.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"SF Man" <lavo...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:i8j28l$ncn$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
Stormin Mormon
"dishwater" implies a pan in the sink. I'd not want to use
"dishwasher" which is a mechanical device with spinning sprayers.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Marina" <m...@dontspam.com> wrote in message
news:4cad7ce1$0$2390$c3e8da3$5671...@news.astraweb.com...
Susan Bugher <sebu...@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:8h4vsn...@mid.individual.net:
>
> Yup - mineral spirits. Soak the labeled container in dishwater
> first.
> If after a bit of rubbing the paper part of the label comes off but
> there is still a sticky patch, pour a small amount of mineral
> spirits
> (aka paint thinner) on a paper towel (or rag) and rub the sticky
> patch
> until it's gone. That almost always does the trick.
>
> Susan
>
>
>
>
Won't the dishwasher throw the label around in little pieces sticking
to
everything else?
Marina
Bill
m...@privacy.net
>I only use the glass jars myself and some of the labels come
>off with a single cycle thru the dishwasher, and some dont.
why ONLY glass Rod?
Rod Speed
> Won't the dishwasher throw the label around in little pieces
Nope, most labels that do come off, come off in one piece.
> sticking to everything else?
Nope, they end up on the removable filter at the bottom of the dishwasher in my case.
Rod Speed
> That's where I'd start, certainly...
The problem is that the jars I prefer are currently those whose
labels dont come off in a single cycle in the dishwasher.
Its just the glue they chose to use.
I should have added that with the ones that dont come off by themselves,
what can work with some glues is to put them thru the dishwasher and
then open the dishwasher at the end of the hot rinse cycle and help the
label off with some sort of scraper, like a putty knife etc, and then get
the residual glue off with a cheap high molecular weight solvent like
kerosine or turpentine and then give them another cycle to get the
remains of the solvent completely removed.
Corse thats a lot easier with glass containers than with plastic containers.
Some just dont bother about the labels, use them with the labels on.
Rod Speed
>> Fraid not.
> Total drivel.
Still pathetically bitter and twisted.
No surprise that it got the bums rush, right out onto its lard arse where it belongs.
Rod Speed
> Rod Speed <rod.sp...@gmail.com> wrote
> why ONLY glass Rod?
Mainly because they last a lot longer in the dishwasher and you
can be a lot more agressive using some form of scraper to get
the label off with the glues that dont come off fine in a single
dishwasher cycle and you can use any solvent you like with
the more agressive glues, they wont affect the glass at all.
Corse it depends on what the stuff you eat mostly comes in.
I dont buy marmalade anymore, make my own now and was
lucky that I saved hundreds of those glass jars when I was
still buying the commercial stuff. I almost chucked them out
when I ended up with hundreds and luckily decided not to just
before I could no longer buy the best lime and lemon marmalade
anymore and started to make my own.
I still buy relish/pickle in much smaller glass jars and they are
ideal for storing small parts like screws and pop rivets in but
am about to start making my own too, again, because the
buggers have stopped making the best tomato/chilli relish now.
m...@privacy.net
>Mainly because they last a lot longer in the dishwasher and you
>can be a lot more agressive using some form of scraper to get
OK
So are your jars the "Mason" style where the lid and
ring are separate pieces?
Rod Speed
> Rod Speed <rod.sp...@gmail.com> wrote
> OK
Nope, they all have metal lids with the plastic ring moulded into the inside of the metal screw on lid.
The other advantage of glass jars for stuff like marmalade etc is that the dishwasher 'sterilises' them
so effectively that you never get any mould forming in the marmalade etc even after a year or so.
I normally make a year's supply of marmalade at a time when the limes are on special.
They arent that cheap most of the year so it makes sense to use the special prices for them.
Larry
m...@privacy.net
>In actual tests a number of years ago, Consumers Union determined
>that _no_ plastics are impermeable to gasses and that, -->given enough
>time<--, foods stored in them get "refrigerator" taste and/or freezer
>burn. The most effective plastic containers for long-term storage were
>"Ziploc" brand freezer bags. Unfortunately, DW&I discovered them to be
>the most likely to leak at their seams.
>--
Good point...... glass is safer!!
m...@privacy.net
>The metal disks
>lend themselves readily to tabbed vacuum storage,
what is "tabbed" vacuum storage?
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
I use Naptha as a general purpose, non-water based solvent. Works
great on labels.
r-beaman@suddenlink.net Bob-tx
"hr(bob) hof...@att.net" <hrho...@att.net> wrote in message
news:d2614e7f-230d-49e7...@x42g2000yqx.googlegroups.com...
> On Oct 7, 1:09 pm, "Rod Speed" <rod.speed....@gmail.com> wrote:
>> dpb wrote
>>
>> > Rod Speed wrote
>> >> SF Man wrote
>> >>> I've started using the plastic containers for vitamins and mixed
>> >>> nuts and cheeses from Costco but some labels come off easily while
>> >>> others fall into a million pieces.
>> >>> Is there a TRICK to removing the label from these jars?
>> >> Nope, what works varys with the glue originally used.
>> >> I only use the glass jars myself and some of the labels come
>> >> off with a single cycle thru the dishwasher, and some dont.
>> > That's where I'd start, certainly...
>>
<snip>
I know it is a little late to comment on this thread. But, just yesterday,
I had the same problem. I had a nice wide mouth jar that had cashews in it.
I want to use the plastic jar to keep barbeque run in. But I wanted the
label off (I would have used it anyway).
I soaked it in soapy water overnight, and this morning, the paper came off
easily. There was a heavy glue residue left. After spraying that with
WD-40, it came off slick as a whistle. Anyway, that is what worked for me.
Bob-tx
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
I use Naptha as an all-purpose solvent when soap and water are not
enough. Works well even on most plastic containers, just clean it off
promptly after removing the labels. As others have said, you need to
break thru the surface barrier of the label to get at the glue, this
is true also when using Naptha.
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
Hilary
> I've started using the plastic containers for vitamins and mixed nuts and
> cheeses from Costco but some labels come off easily while others fall into
> a million pieces.
>
> Is there a TRICK to removing the label from these jars?
>
> stopping as soon as I get a tear).
>
> Or better yet, some secret solvent?
Umm, how about just putting a new label over the top, like most of us
do?
Rod Speed
>>>>> I've started using the plastic containers for vitamins and mixed
>>>>> nuts and cheeses from Costco but some labels come off easily
>>>>> while others fall into a million pieces. Is there a TRICK to
>>>>> removing the label from these jars?
>>>> Nope, what works varys with the glue originally used.
>>>> I only use the glass jars myself and some of the labels come
>>>> off with a single cycle thru the dishwasher, and some dont.
>>> That's where I'd start, certainly...
>> The problem is that the jars I prefer are currently those whose
>> labels dont come off in a single cycle in the dishwasher.
>> Its just the glue they chose to use.
>> I should have added that with the ones that dont come off by
>> themselves, what can work with some glues is to put them thru the
>> dishwasher and
>> then open the dishwasher at the end of the hot rinse cycle and help
>> the label off with some sort of scraper, like a putty knife etc, and
>> then get the residual glue off with a cheap high molecular weight
>> solvent like kerosene or turpentine and then give them another cycle
>> to get the remains of the solvent completely removed.
>> Corse thats a lot easier with glass containers than with plastic containers.
>> Some just dont bother about the labels, use them with the labels on.
> I use Naptha as a general purpose, non-water based solvent. Works great on labels.
Thats very similar to kerosene, but kerosene is a slightly higher molecular
weight, so works better with labels that dont come off in the dishwasher.
Kerosene has a maximum of 16 carbon atoms, naptha has a max of 12 carbon atoms.
walt tonne
motherfucker."
Uncle Remus
thanatoid
> I've started using the plastic containers for vitamins and
> mixed nuts and cheeses from Costco but some labels come off
> easily while others fall into a million pieces.
>
> Is there a TRICK to removing the label from these jars?
>
> Maybe a mechanical technique (I try to peal
peel
> from all edges,
> sloooooowly, stopping as soon as I get a tear).
>
> Or better yet, some secret solvent?
Yes, there IS a secret solvent. Its name varies with the
manufacturer, but it is usually something like "electronic
circuit board cleaner".
It's not cheap - a spray can should cost about $10 at least,
perhaps up to $25. Anything cheaper is garbage. The good stuff
is available from stores which sell electronic stuff which will
baffle you. IOW, for "pros", in the /original/ pre "China-makes-
everything-and-makes-everyone-using-it-a-pro" meaning.
Also, whole they ALL claim "will not harm plastic and evaporates
leaving no residue", that also varies with the manufacturer and
the overall quality. All these sprays are derived from Freon,
which used to be available in spray cans in the good old days,
AND cleaned /everything/ AND left ZERO residue. These are
"environmentally friendly" but slightly less-effective cousins.
But they WILL remove the things you mention. If the label is
VERY old (like something in your basement, and the glue has
turned into a hard substance which will NOT flake/scrub off)
then a citrus-based "goo-remover" product will dissolve THAT
stuff and then you can clean it off.
(You still have to get the *label* off in the PITA manner you
describe, but the spray WILL remove the left-over glue very
easily.)
The goo-remover MAY work on SOME of the "regular" labels but it
will take a lot longer and it's a lot messier. And you will need
a lot.
Thinner and muriatic acid might also do the job but little will
be left of the container and perhaps of your hands and eyes.
In general, I usually try rubbing alcohol first, but it is
useless with labels.
--
"Anytime I hear the word "culture", I reach for my iPad."
- 21st Century Humanoid
thanatoid
> I've started using the plastic containers for vitamins and
> mixed nuts and cheeses from Costco but some labels come off
> easily while others fall into a million pieces.
>
> Is there a TRICK to removing the label from these jars?
>
> Maybe a mechanical technique (I try to peal from all edges,
> sloooooowly, stopping as soon as I get a tear).
>
> Or better yet, some secret solvent?
BTW, I glanced through some of the other replies. The other
respondents have NO FUCKING CLUE, please do not listen to ANY of
their idiotic suggestions.
YES, YOU.
You have a nice day too.
Smitty Two
thanatoid <wai...@the.exit.invalid> wrote:
> Yes, there IS a secret solvent. Its name varies with the
> manufacturer, but it is usually something like "electronic
> circuit board cleaner".
I make a living assembling circuit boards, among other things. I clean
the flux off them with soapy water in heated ultrasonic tanks.
Sure, there are a lot of solvents that will cut flux, including many
different alcohols, "rubbing" (isopropyl) among them - which as you say
is pretty useless against label glue.
So, names might vary with manufacturer, but chemicals do not. Which
particular concoction are you referring to, for the labels?
thanatoid
news:prestwhich-7DB41...@mx01.eternal-september.o
rg:
> In article <Xns9E0BD80CE...@188.40.43.230>,
> thanatoid <wai...@the.exit.invalid> wrote:
>
>> Yes, there IS a secret solvent. Its name varies with the
>> manufacturer, but it is usually something like "electronic
>> circuit board cleaner".
>
> I make a living assembling circuit boards, among other
> things. I clean the flux off them with soapy water in
> heated ultrasonic tanks.
Most people wanting to clean goo do not have access to
ultrasonic tanks of suitable size.
> Sure, there are a lot of solvents that will cut flux,
> including many different alcohols, "rubbing" (isopropyl)
> among them - which as you say is pretty useless against
> label glue.
>
> So, names might vary with manufacturer, but chemicals do
> not. Which particular concoction are you referring to, for
> the labels?
I can NOT believe I am doing this, but I am actually checking
the cans.
Can 1:
M.G. Chemicals, Canada.
"Electrosolve" Contact Cleaner, Zero Residue
Chemical Contents: Hexane Isomers, 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane.
Cans 2 and 3:
Names etc. irrelevant, but labels mention "circuit board
cleaner, no residue"
No contents listed, as they were made in the fubar-forsaken 3rd
world country I currently live in. Who knows exactly what's in
them, but one works very well, the other even better, but at the
price of leaving somewhat visible marks on some plastics.
I believe the active ingredient (for the purposes of this
thread) is 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane and/or close cousins. The
smell (once you know how to recognize it) or bringing a sample
to work with to the shop is the way to make sure it will do the
job.