How to adjust steel linked watch band (Wenger Swiss Military waterproof)
Vanessa
obvious.)
I bought, at CostCo, the Wenger Swiss Military 200m water proof watch
for my teen-age son's birthday for about 30 dollars (as he wants to
learn how to scuba dive in Monterey Bay).
His thin wrist in no way fits this Wenger watch band, even wearing his
wetsuit, in so much as at least two links need to be removed from the
stainless steel watch band, one on each side. Instructions supplied
with the blister pack do not explain how to adjust the band (presumably
it's so simple that we should be able to figure it out by ourselves
using a butter knife)???
His new Wenger Swiss Military watch band has six links on each side,
with two (I'll guess they're called) pins holding them together. The
three lower links on each side each have a 2 mm arrow embossed into the
center of the backside of the plates (for whatever reason, I don't
know). My son suspects that arrow is telling us the direction in which
to remove the pins holding the links to the watch band.
Further evidence these six links are the remove-me links are the fact
that a pin of some sort can be seen on a side view of the Wenger watch
band for these "arrowed" links only.
Problem is - how do we remove those 'pins'? If we punch them out with
an incredibly small punch (the pins seem to be about a half millimeter
in diameter), won't we ruin them? I mean, what holds them in? Friction?
If it's friction, won't we need new pins when we punch out the old ones
(presumably stripping the heads)?
The other thing is these arrows are not symetrical in that they are
only lined up with one of the two pins per link (that is, there is only
one arrow per link and that arrow is under only one of the pins per the
link).
Am I missing something fundamental here?
What's the trick to removing and replacing two links in a steel watch
band?
Rod Speed
Vanessa <stan...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1119000024.2...@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> How do we adjust a too-large stainless steel watch band?
> (It's not obvious.)
Yeah, I basically removed a couple of the links.
> I bought, at CostCo, the Wenger Swiss Military 200m water
> proof watch for my teen-age son's birthday for about 30 dollars
> (as he wants to learn how to scuba dive in Monterey Bay).
> His thin wrist in no way fits this Wenger watch band,
Yeah, I had the same problem.
> even wearing his wetsuit, in so much as at least two links need
> to be removed from the stainless steel watch band, one on each
> side. Instructions supplied with the blister pack do not explain
> how to adjust the band (presumably it's so simple that we should
> be able to figure it out by ourselves using a butter knife)???
Not really, but it isnt rocket science.
> His new Wenger Swiss Military watch band has six links on each
> side, with two (I'll guess they're called) pins holding them together.
Mine had fold over metal bits with each link.
> The three lower links on each side each have a 2 mm arrow embossed
> into the center of the backside of the plates (for whatever reason, I don't
> know). My son suspects that arrow is telling us the direction in which
> to remove the pins holding the links to the watch band.
> Further evidence these six links are the remove-me links are
> the fact that a pin of some sort can be seen on a side view
> of the Wenger watch band for these "arrowed" links only.
Sounds plausible.
> Problem is - how do we remove those 'pins'? If we punch them out with
> an incredibly small punch (the pins seem to be about a half millimeter
> in diameter), won't we ruin them? I mean, what holds them in? Friction?
Some have a spring loaded inner pin at each end.
> If it's friction, won't we need new pins when we punch
> out the old ones (presumably stripping the heads)?
> The other thing is these arrows are not symetrical in
> that they are only lined up with one of the two pins per
> link (that is, there is only one arrow per link and that
> arrow is under only one of the pins per the link).
> Am I missing something fundamental here?
Yes, http://www.wengerna.com/faq.jsp?cat_id=1#add_links
> What's the trick to removing and replacing
> two links in a steel watch band?
Looks like there is a special tool that does it.
Lee Bell
> How do we adjust a too-large stainless steel watch band? (It's not
> obvious.)
It's not real hard, but may be more than you want to take on. Your son is
on the right track, but you don't use a butter knife. More likely, you use
a small paperclip of safety pin. Regardless, your best bet, given the fact
that this is clearly not your specialty, is to take the watch to a jeweler.
At worst, he won't charge much. At best, if you catch him when he's not
busy, he'll do it for free, just for the good will.
Lee
bicycle
Vanessa wrote:
> How do we adjust a too-large stainless steel watch band? (It's not
> obvious.)
><snip>
>
> His new Wenger Swiss Military watch band has six links on each side,
> with two (I'll guess they're called) pins holding them together. The
> three lower links on each side each have a 2 mm arrow embossed into the
> center of the backside of the plates (for whatever reason, I don't
> know). My son suspects that arrow is telling us the direction in which
> to remove the pins holding the links to the watch band.
The arrow does indeed show pin removal direction. There are a number of
pin styles. Some are flat and also have a small opening on the back of
the link, some are round. Some are held in place by friction and others
held by a roll pin on the opposite end, and others screw in. I've shown
a couple here:
> Further evidence these six links are the remove-me links are the fact
> that a pin of some sort can be seen on a side view of the Wenger watch
> band for these "arrowed" links only.
Sounds like they are held by friction or a roll pin then
> Problem is - how do we remove those 'pins'? If we punch them out with
> an incredibly small punch (the pins seem to be about a half millimeter
> in diameter), won't we ruin them? I mean, what holds them in? Friction?
> If it's friction, won't we need new pins when we punch out the old ones
> (presumably stripping the heads)?
The photo I provided also shows the tool I use, a push-pin. I have a
very large one I use for bracelet adjustment. An actual watch pin
removal tool is similar to a chain break tool that removes pins on a
bicycle chain, it also is used to replace said pins.
Pin removal tool shown here (not my auction):
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=495&item=5004725832&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW>
Chain break tool shown here:
<http://www.mscd.edu/~cra/webskills/bike/chain_tool.gif>
Both work the same.
> The other thing is these arrows are not symetrical in that they are
> only lined up with one of the two pins per link (that is, there is only
> one arrow per link and that arrow is under only one of the pins per the
> link).
The pins run all the way through the link, pushing it from one side
with a push-pin will begin to expose it on the opposite side. It can
then be removed by gripping it with a pair of needle nosed pliers and
removed.
Ann actual watch pin removal tool works in a similar way but will push
the pin out far enough to grip and remove it by hand.
> Am I missing something fundamental here?
> What's the trick to removing and replacing two links in a steel watch
> band?
No, just take your time so as not to scratch the band. You can take it
to the jewelry counter at Wal-Mart or a local jewel/watch dealer but
they have been know to scratch a bracelet or 2.
Hound Dog
I've adjusted quite a few watch bands over the years and each time was
different.
Have a jeweler do it. He want charge much and he has the tools and know how
to do it right.
Michael Daly
> I bought, at CostCo, the Wenger Swiss Military 200m water proof watch
> for my teen-age son's birthday for about 30 dollars (as he wants to
> learn how to scuba dive in Monterey Bay).
Don't be too surprised if the watch doesn't work well under water.
200m water resistance sounds like is should be ok (since the
sport diving limit is 40m). However, if it has any push buttons
and they are not specifically designed for constant pressure, they
may depress under water pressure. What happens to the watch if
the button(s) are constantly held down may be unpredictable. DAMHIKT.
Mike
Scott
"Lee Bell" <lee...@ix.remove.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:tcyse.6609$VK4....@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
I gotta say;
For a conservative democrat, you sure are a decent human.
<grin>
Chris Hill
>How do we adjust a too-large stainless steel watch band? (It's not
>obvious.)
Go to a jewelry store. Some of them will do such mundain (to them)
things for free just to get your business if you're ever in the mood
to buy jewelry. I went to one last year, got my watchband made
smaller and my wedding ring made round again for nothing. If I'm ever
of need for jewelry, I'll at least go look there.
Vanessa
> > Am I missing something fundamental here?
>
> Yes, http://www.wengerna.com/faq.jsp?cat_id=1#add_links
>
> > What's the trick to removing and replacing
> > two links in a steel watch band?
>
> Looks like there is a special tool that does it.
I should have mentioned I had been to the Wenger web site previously.
http://www.wengerasi.com
which happens to have a photo of my son's Wenger Swiss Military Watch
(70016) on the home page - but my searches came up blank.
However, unless I'm more of an idiot than I thought (which is always
possible :), there are absolutely no instructions for removing links in
that steel watch band on the entire Wenger web site.
While there are detailed instructions for measuring arcane things like
the simple width of the watch
(http://www.wengerna.com/browse/tutorial.jsp) I'm surprised there are
no common adjustment instructions for the band. Given the CostCo Wenger
Swiss Military 200m date watch band ships in XXL elephant size, I can't
imagine that everyone on the planet won't have to remove links in the
bracelet band.
I very much appreciate your link to the Wenger Swiss Army Watch FAQ.
http://www.wengerna.com/faq.jsp
But all it says for adjusting the band is take it to someone who knows
how to adjust the band already (that's why I'm asking this message
board). :)
The two PDFs at that FAQ site are for the booklet that comes with the
watch (which says ask someone who knows how to adjust the band) and for
ordering new bands.
Why would it be so exasperating to do something so simple as a watch
band adjustment - especially since the band comes in such a huge size
to start with that every human other than Mike Tyson will have to
adjust the band. Where's the usability in that? :)
By the way, I seriously doubt the pin is spring loaded like it is for
the clasp adjustment on the band because in the u-shaped clasp, there's
a place for the pin to come out - but in the closed-off band, there is
NOWHERE for a spring-loaded pin to exit. It seems that the link pins
can ONLY come out one end or the other which means it must be a
friction fit or some other trick - but not simple springs like in the
clasp (am I totally off base here?)???
Here is my best-guess procedure for all those CostCo watch buyers out
there.
1. Find a very small (1/2 mm) punch (probably a very tiny brad or nail)
2. Find a block of wood with a very small hole (about 1mm or so)
3. Find the arrow on the underside of the Wenger Swiss Military Watch
70016
4. Place the watch band on its side on the block of wood
5. Place the point of the punch on the pin in the direction of the --->
arrow
6. Make sure there is a closed hole (a ditch if you will) below the pin
7. That way you won't lose the pin if it suddenly pops out on you
8. Punch two pins per link out
9. Remove the link and replace only one of the pins
10. If we're lucky - the pins won't have been destroyed in the process
Does this sound anywhere near like a usable procedure for the new
owners of the Costco 70016 Wenger Swiss Military 200m date watch?
SoCalMike
> Am I missing something fundamental here?
either return the watch for the $50 casio with the vinyl band, or take
the wenger to a local jewelry store and have em resize it for a few bucks.
SoCalMike
> Why would it be so exasperating to do something so simple as a watch
> band adjustment - especially since the band comes in such a huge size
> to start with that every human other than Mike Tyson will have to
> adjust the band. Where's the usability in that? :)
the bigger the band size, the more people can potentially wear it.
Lee Bell
> I gotta say;
>
> For a conservative democrat, you sure are a decent human.
You didn't have to say, but I'm glad you did. Thanks.
Lee
Rod Speed
> Rod Speed wrote
>>> Am I missing something fundamental here?
>> Yes, http://www.wengerna.com/faq.jsp?cat_id=1#add_links
>>> What's the trick to removing and replacing
>>> two links in a steel watch band?
>> Looks like there is a special tool that does it.
> I should have mentioned I had been to the Wenger web site previously.
> http://www.wengerasi.com
> which happens to have a photo of my son's Wenger Swiss Military Watch
> (70016) on the home page - but my searches came up blank.
>
> However, unless I'm more of an idiot than I thought (which is always
> possible :), there are absolutely no instructions for removing links in
> that steel watch band on the entire Wenger web site.
>
> While there are detailed instructions for measuring arcane things like
> the simple width of the watch
> (http://www.wengerna.com/browse/tutorial.jsp) I'm surprised there are
> no common adjustment instructions for the band. Given the CostCo Wenger
> Swiss Military 200m date watch band ships in XXL elephant size, I can't
> imagine that everyone on the planet won't have to remove links in the
> bracelet band.
>
> I very much appreciate your link to the Wenger Swiss Army Watch FAQ.
> http://www.wengerna.com/faq.jsp
> But all it says for adjusting the band is take it to someone who knows
> how to adjust the band already (that's why I'm asking this message board). :)
It actually says pretty unambiguously that there is a special tool that is
used to remove excess links and that the watchmaker should have it.
http://www.wengerna.com/faq.jsp?cat_id=1#add_links
Its certainly possible that someone with some decent mechanical
aptitude can work out how to do it without the tool, but its unlikely
that you'll find anyone who has done that with that particular band.
> The two PDFs at that FAQ site are for the booklet that
> comes with the watch (which says ask someone who
> knows how to adjust the band) and for ordering new bands.
> Why would it be so exasperating to do something so simple as
> a watch band adjustment - especially since the band comes in
> such a huge size to start with that every human other than Mike
> Tyson will have to adjust the band. Where's the usability in that? :)
Basically they have chosen to have the seller of the watch do it.
Thats basically a design choice.
> By the way, I seriously doubt the pin is spring loaded like it is for
> the clasp adjustment on the band because in the u-shaped clasp,
Yeah, sounds plausible. And you dont need a special tool for those.
> there's a place for the pin to come out - but in the closed-off band,
> there is NOWHERE for a spring-loaded pin to exit. It seems that
> the link pins can ONLY come out one end or the other which
> means it must be a friction fit or some other trick - but not simple
> springs like in the clasp (am I totally off base here?)???
Nar, it does look like they have designed it to be dont with a special tool.
Corse that doesnt mean that thats the only way it can be done.
Likely it is a friction fit and the tool provides enough force to overcome that.
> Here is my best-guess procedure for all those CostCo watch buyers out there.
> 1. Find a very small (1/2 mm) punch (probably a very tiny brad or nail)
> 2. Find a block of wood with a very small hole (about 1mm or so)
> 3. Find the arrow on the underside of the Wenger Swiss Military Watch
> 70016
> 4. Place the watch band on its side on the block of wood
> 5. Place the point of the punch on the pin in the direction of the --->
> arrow
> 6. Make sure there is a closed hole (a ditch if you will) below the pin
> 7. That way you won't lose the pin if it suddenly pops out on you
> 8. Punch two pins per link out
> 9. Remove the link and replace only one of the pins
> 10. If we're lucky - the pins won't have been destroyed in the process
> Does this sound anywhere near like a usable procedure for the new
> owners of the Costco 70016 Wenger Swiss Military 200m date watch?
Have you asked costco what they suggest you do about the band adjustment ?
They may have an arrangement with someone to do that.
dAz
> Here is my best-guess procedure for all those CostCo watch buyers out
> there.
> 1. Find a very small (1/2 mm) punch (probably a very tiny brad or nail)
> 2. Find a block of wood with a very small hole (about 1mm or so)
> 3. Find the arrow on the underside of the Wenger Swiss Military Watch
> 70016
> 4. Place the watch band on its side on the block of wood
> 5. Place the point of the punch on the pin in the direction of the --->
> arrow
> 6. Make sure there is a closed hole (a ditch if you will) below the pin
> 7. That way you won't lose the pin if it suddenly pops out on you
> 8. Punch two pins per link out
> 9. Remove the link and replace only one of the pins
> 10. If we're lucky - the pins won't have been destroyed in the process
>
> Does this sound anywhere near like a usable procedure for the new
> owners of the Costco 70016 Wenger Swiss Military 200m date watch?
>
you can buy the tools off ebay, either one of these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10363&item=5004066795
or this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10363&item=5004067208
if the band has the push out pin type and is not a screw or a "U" shaped
clip like used in the Seiko bands.
but really the best solution for you is to take it to a watchmaker or
jeweller and have them do it, I usually charge a couple of dollars, or
nothing if they bought watch or band from me.
the watchmaker/jeweller would have the right tools and the knowledge of
the right way to remove links without damage to the band.
some bands are easy, some are real bastards to do.
Greg Mossman
news:42b374c4$0$13944$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
> but really the best solution for you is to take it to a watchmaker or
> jeweller and have them do it, I usually charge a couple of dollars, or
> nothing if they bought watch or band from me.
You don't get pissed off that your customer bought their watch from a big
box store? If I were the jeweler I'd probably tell the customer to return
to Costco to get the thing adjusted because that's the quality service she
paid for. But that's just me perhaps.
dAz
all the time, they buy them duty free, on a bargain somwhere etc etc,
but come to me for batteries, servicing, and band adjustments, meanwhile
my stock just sit there on the shelf, oh well, glad I am not in a shop
anymore.
SoCalMike
> You don't get pissed off that your customer bought their watch from a big
> box store? If I were the jeweler I'd probably tell the customer to return
> to Costco to get the thing adjusted because that's the quality service she
> paid for. But that's just me perhaps.
mom and pop shops are there to provide service. costco is there to
provide low prices on some items.
Stormin Mormon
folks have done a LOT of these kind of thing, and will have it adjusted for
you very soon.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"Vanessa" <stan...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1119000024.2...@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Edwin Pawlowski
"SoCalMike" <mikein562...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:f6mdnWAl4s6...@comcast.com...
True, but the mom and pop can't survive easily on just the service and soon
we have no place to go.
I've have found that on major appliances it is just as economical to buy
from the local dealer these days. Most belong to buyer's co-ops and can sell
as cheap as the big stores but they offer services that the big guys cannot
touch. Things like same day delivery and setup, hauling off the old
appliance.
More important, they are there fast if it breaks. Woke up one morning and
found the freezer died and it was beyond repairs. Called the dealer, he had
freezers in stock, but not the one I wanted. So, he brought another working
model as a loaner. Helped transfer the food. Came two days later with the
one I wanted, helped transfer the food back. Net loss was a half a
container of ice cream. Would Home Depot or Best Buy do that?
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/
ne333ro
Vanessa wrote:
> How do we adjust a too-large stainless steel watch band? (It's not
> obvious.)
They are all designed a little differently but generally bands with
arrows are friction fit and the pin comes out in the direction the
arrow points. There is also (generally) a place on the underside of the
band that allows access to push the pin out. Every once in a while I
run into one that the only way to remove pins is to push them through
from the opposite side. Be careful you dont use a tapered punch that
widens out the hole when you punch the pin out. You may also need a
hammer to punch it out. They usually do any plating on the band with
the pins in, which works like glue alot of times. Take the same number
of pins out of each side if possible. If not, take the extra pin from
the 6 oclock side. If you find the pin wont stay in after relacing it,
use a toothpick to put just a touch of super glue on the end of the
pin. There is also (usually) some minor adjustment in the spring bars
in the clasp. Dont overuse that or the watch will clasp oddly.
> I bought, at CostCo, the Wenger Swiss Military 200m water proof watch
> for my teen-age son's birthday for about 30 dollars (as he wants to
> learn how to scuba dive in Monterey Bay).
> His thin wrist in no way fits this Wenger watch band, even wearing his
> wetsuit, in so much as at least two links need to be removed from the
> stainless steel watch band, one on each side. Instructions supplied
> with the blister pack do not explain how to adjust the band (presumably
> it's so simple that we should be able to figure it out by ourselves
> using a butter knife)???
Presumably you will get it done at the jewelry store where you
bought it. Thats one of the drawbacks of buying this type item (kind of
like dive gear) at a discount outlet or online. They dont need
instructions.
> His new Wenger Swiss Military watch band has six links on each side,
> with two (I'll guess they're called) pins holding them together. The
> three lower links on each side each have a 2 mm arrow embossed into the
> center of the backside of the plates (for whatever reason, I don't
> know). My son suspects that arrow is telling us the direction in which
> to remove the pins holding the links to the watch band.
Hes probably right.
> Further evidence these six links are the remove-me links are the fact
> that a pin of some sort can be seen on a side view of the Wenger watch
> band for these "arrowed" links only.
>
> Problem is - how do we remove those 'pins'? If we punch them out with
> an incredibly small punch (the pins seem to be about a half millimeter
> in diameter), won't we ruin them? I mean, what holds them in? Friction?
> If it's friction, won't we need new pins when we punch out the old ones
> (presumably stripping the heads)?
They are probably friction pins and, no, you wont need new pins
unless you take them out regularly.
> The other thing is these arrows are not symetrical in that they are
> only lined up with one of the two pins per link (that is, there is only
> one arrow per link and that arrow is under only one of the pins per the
> link).
> Am I missing something fundamental here?
> What's the trick to removing and replacing two links in a steel watch
> band?
Take it to someone that knows what they are doing and has the
proper tools.
SoCalMike
> True, but the mom and pop can't survive easily on just the service and soon
> we have no place to go.
all depends. if their prices are competitive on stuff costco doesnt
carry, they should still do well. a lot of mom and pop places sell used
estate jewelry and stuff like that, that major retailers wont touch.
Vanessa
> Vanessa wrote:
> > How do we adjust a too-large stainless steel watch band?
I first called a nearby jewelry store I found in the phone book before
asking you.
The guy who answered the phone said it would cost "only $40" (which is
more than I paid for the Wenger scuba dive watch at CostCo).
I asked what he based that fee upon and he said it would take 20
minutes and he gets $120 an hour to fix watches so his estimate was $40
dollars to adjust the steel band.
After that, I didn't call anyone else as it was clear it would cost
more than the watch to have the band adjusted.
VCS
Scott
> After that, I didn't call anyone else as it was clear it would cost
> more than the watch to have the band adjusted.
Bummer, unless you are just barely smart enough to:
A) Not buy a $40 chunk of shit watch that doesnt fit without having a
jeweler make the adjustment.
B) Do it yourself.
If you cant do either, be ready to pay someone who is.
David Johnson
>
> I first called a nearby jewelry store I found in the phone book before
> asking you.
>
> The guy who answered the phone said it would cost "only $40" (which is
> more than I paid for the Wenger scuba dive watch at CostCo).
>
> I asked what he based that fee upon and he said it would take 20
> minutes and he gets $120 an hour to fix watches so his estimate was $40
> dollars to adjust the steel band.
>
> After that, I didn't call anyone else as it was clear it would cost
> more than the watch to have the band adjusted.
>
charges. Prices for watch repair vary drastically--My watchmaker
started before quartz, charges less than that for servicing a mechanical.
chilly
I think the jewellers answer was a crock. Take it over to a cheap watch
kiosk at a mall. They'll fix it for ya for $5.
>
Rod Speed
>> Vanessa wrote
Its not clear at all, you dont know that they all gouge like that.
Did you actually ask costco what they suggest you do about it ?
Bet they do have some way to get the bands adjusted.
If they dont, buy one of the tools off ebay, it aint rocket science.
Rod Speed
"Rod Speed" <rod_...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3hkgg6F...@individual.net...
And if they dont, return it for a full refund and ring around the
jewellers and find one that will match costco's price, tell them
what costco wants for that watch, and buy it from them and
get them to adjust the band when you buy it.
dAz
>
> I first called a nearby jewelry store I found in the phone book before
> asking you.
>
> The guy who answered the phone said it would cost "only $40" (which is
> more than I paid for the Wenger scuba dive watch at CostCo).
>
> I asked what he based that fee upon and he said it would take 20
> minutes and he gets $120 an hour to fix watches so his estimate was $40
> dollars to adjust the steel band.
>
> After that, I didn't call anyone else as it was clear it would cost
> more than the watch to have the band adjusted.
nah that's total rubbish, he just doesn't want to do your watch so he
quotes a ridiculous price, just ask around its only a 5-10 minute job
for someone with the right tools.
I would hate to take a battery job to that guy, he would probably charge
$40 for a battery swap and no pressure test.
anyway the point is the tool is about $20, if you have a few bands to do
good, but if you only have one band it's a bit of a waste, it shouldn't
cost more than $10 to resize the band.
dazed and confuzzed
got a deal then, didn't you?
--
Your ridiculous little opinion has been noted.
My diesel truck has been modified to run on an environmentally friendly
mixture of clean burning Caribou fat and whale oil.
"Tolerance is the virtue of a man without convictions"
G.K. Chesterton
Edwin Pawlowski
>> The guy who answered the phone said it would cost "only $40" (which is
>> more than I paid for the Wenger scuba dive watch at CostCo).
>>
>> I asked what he based that fee upon and he said it would take 20
>> minutes and he gets $120 an hour to fix watches so his estimate was $40
>> dollars to adjust the steel band.
>>
>> After that, I didn't call anyone else as it was clear it would cost
>> more than the watch to have the band adjusted.
Had you bought the watch from him, it would have been free. What is his
price for the watch? Probably five bucks more but with the service you
require.
Vanessa
> anyway the point is the tool is about $20, if you have a few bands to do
> good, but if you only have one band it's a bit of a waste, it shouldn't
> cost more than $10 to resize the band.
I don't mind buying the tool as you never know when you'll need them
and it's good to have the right tool on hand.
Do you know what it's called & where's a decent place to buy quantity
one?
(I'd never buy off of ebay though - it's > 25% stolen goods according
to my friend's husband who is in the high tech crime unit of the police
dept).
So if you know of a non-ebay source for this tool, of quantity one, for
about twenty bucks - lots of us would probably like to know where to
get a deal like that.
Vanessa Cara Stancinni
Greg Mossman
> I don't mind buying the tool as you never know when you'll need them
> and it's good to have the right tool on hand.
You sound like such a tool that I'm surprised you can't do the job by
yourself.
> Do you know what it's called & where's a decent place to buy quantity
> one?
It's called the watch-band disassembler thingamajig and they're available on
e-bay.
> (I'd never buy off of ebay though - it's > 25% stolen goods according
> to my friend's husband who is in the high tech crime unit of the police
> dept).
High tech crime unit? You mean he investigates car stereo thefts?
Trust me, there's not a huge market for stolen watch-band disassembler
thingamajigs even on ebay. The latest statistics, from my friend's wife's
cousin's mother's imaginary friend, is that less than 5% of the watch-band
disassembler thingamajigs sold on ebay are hot. The rest are legitimate,
sold by other good folk just like you who had to buy a $50 tool to fix their
on-sale-now $40 watches.
> So if you know of a non-ebay source for this tool, of quantity one, for
> about twenty bucks - lots of us would probably like to know where to
> get a deal like that.
>
> Vanessa Cara Stancinni
There's lots more like you? God help us . . .
Rod Speed
>> anyway the point is the tool is about $20, if you have a few
>> bands to do good, but if you only have one band it's a bit of
>> a waste, it shouldn't cost more than $10 to resize the band.
> I don't mind buying the tool as you never know when you'll
> need them and it's good to have the right tool on hand.
> Do you know what it's called & where's
> a decent place to buy quantity one?
Ebay.
> (I'd never buy off of ebay though - it's > 25% stolen
> goods according to my friend's husband who is in
> the high tech crime unit of the police dept).
Very unlikely indeed that a tool like that would be stolen.
And its easy enough to avoid any risk of stolen stuff with
ebay, just look for one of the operations thats clearly
using ebay as a cheap way of doing online transactions
with a significant volume of the same stuff sold on ebay.
> So if you know of a non-ebay source for this tool,
> of quantity one, for about twenty bucks - lots of us
> would probably like to know where to get a deal like that.
Makes a lot more sense to use ebay and recognise that a
tool like that isnt likely to be stolen, particularly if its unused.
SoCalMike
that person obviously didnt want to be bothered, and blew you off. did
you tell them...
"i need a metal watch band adjusted"
or
"i just got this new watch at costco, how much to adjust the band?"
not that its any of their business whether its a 20 year old wenger
family heirloom, or a new one from costco.
SoCalMike
> dAz wrote:
>
>>anyway the point is the tool is about $20, if you have a few bands to do
>>good, but if you only have one band it's a bit of a waste, it shouldn't
>>cost more than $10 to resize the band.
>
>
> I don't mind buying the tool as you never know when you'll need them
> and it's good to have the right tool on hand.
>
> Do you know what it's called & where's a decent place to buy quantity
> one?
id call a few more jewelers. hell- take it to walmart, and tell em you
got it at the local sams club (walmart owns sams), mebbe theyll do it
for free.
> (I'd never buy off of ebay though - it's > 25% stolen goods according
> to my friend's husband who is in the high tech crime unit of the police
> dept).
>
> So if you know of a non-ebay source for this tool, of quantity one, for
> about twenty bucks - lots of us would probably like to know where to
> get a deal like that.
>
> Vanessa Cara Stancinni
>
usenet rule number one:
never use your complete name.
SoCalMike
which he may not.
dAz
> dAz wrote:
>
>>anyway the point is the tool is about $20, if you have a few bands to do
>>good, but if you only have one band it's a bit of a waste, it shouldn't
>>cost more than $10 to resize the band.
>
>
> I don't mind buying the tool as you never know when you'll need them
> and it's good to have the right tool on hand.
>
> Do you know what it's called & where's a decent place to buy quantity
> one?
yep either this one which will probably be fine with band on that watch
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10363&item=5004647025
or this one which is a bit more versatile
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10363&item=5004751962
first one will cost you $13 the second one about $21
> (I'd never buy off of ebay though - it's > 25% stolen goods according
> to my friend's husband who is in the high tech crime unit of the police
> dept).
yeah well you are being a bit paranoid, sure I suppose there would some
stolen goods on ebay, but in this case I don't think there is a real big
market in stolen watch tools, anyway its like anything, buyer beware,
you look at the feedbacks, specially what kind of feedbacks, buy from
high volume sellers with good feedbacks, I use ebay quite a bit and have
saved quite a bit of money in doing so, eg; I fly Radio control planes
or slope soarer's for a hobby, the last set of micro servos I bought
from ebay cost me $12 each, the same servo in the shops is around $65.
and I have bought this guy before for tools, he is quite good.
>
> So if you know of a non-ebay source for this tool, of quantity one, for
> about twenty bucks - lots of us would probably like to know where to
> get a deal like that.
again I think its more than likely you will use the tool once and then
never touch it again, also if you snap the punch off in the band and jam
it then you are going to have a bigger problem.
there has to be someone near you that will adjust the band for $5-$10
Greg Mossman
> usenet rule number one:
>
> never use your complete name.
Why not?
zog
spammers, they scan newsgroups for full names and real email addresses,
so if you suddenly start getting lots of spam, thats why, your use of
your real email leaves you open to that abuse
eg just use "Greg" or a nickname and put a spam blocker in your email
eg;
mossmanAT@qnetDOTcom
mos...@NOSPAMqnet.com
Rod Speed
zog <z...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:42b642c5$0$13944$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
>>> usenet rule number one:
>>> never use your complete name.
>> Why not?
> spammers, they scan newsgroups for full names
Nope.
> and real email addresses, so if you suddenly start getting lots of spam, thats
> why,
Not with the full name it aint.
> your use of your real email leaves you open to that abuse
And its completely trivial for anyone with a clue to deal with that.
> eg just use "Greg" or a nickname and put a spam blocker in your email
No thanks.
zog
>
> No thanks.
>
>
whatever, I wasn't asking for your opinion, Rod
Rod Speed
> Rod Speed wrote:
>>
>> No thanks.
>
> whatever, I wasn't asking for your opinion, Rod
No one asked for yours, gutless.
H Huntzinger
Rule #1 of USENET:
Whenever you post anything, you're soliciting everyone in the world for
their opinion of what you wrote.
-hh
Greg Mossman
message
news:{NOSPAM-rm_to_reply}rec-scuba2005-B06...@news.giganews.com...
> Rule #1 of USENET:
>
>
> Whenever you post anything, you're soliciting everyone in the world for
> their opinion of what you wrote.
Corollary #1a of USENET: You had just better hope that everyone in the
world doesn't answer.
Andy Hill
>(I'd never buy off of ebay though - it's > 25% stolen goods according
>to my friend's husband who is in the high tech crime unit of the police
>dept).
>
once thought about signing up for a statistics course.
David Johnson
> zog <z...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>>Rod Speed wrote:
>>
>>>No thanks.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>whatever, I wasn't asking for your opinion, Rod
>
>
>
>
> Rule #1 of USENET:
>
when you reply, and don't let trolls goad you into starting flame wars
across groups.. This doesn't belong in alt.horology, followups set.
rusty...@yahoo.com
band, I found these references which may help you out.
http://www.dreamretail.com/RemovingLinks.html
and
http://www.schlatter.org/watchband.htm
"Remember you have to remove at least 2 pins to remove a link. For more
than 1 link, you have to remove evenly from both ends of the bracelet
or the buckle will end up in the wrong place - you want the buckle to
end up on the flat of your wrist. This is NOT 1/2 way because of
anatomy - the top 1/2 needs to be considerably shorter than the bottom.
So that is at least 4 pins that need
to come out and then 2 to be driven back in."
These work for other watches, but I didn't find any references to the
tool that is actually needed for your watch.
rusty...@yahoo.com
> > The guy who answered the phone said it would cost "only $40" (which is
> > more than I paid for the Wenger scuba dive watch at CostCo).
> >
> > I asked what he based that fee upon and he said it would take 20
> > minutes and he gets $120 an hour to fix watches so his estimate was $40
> > dollars to adjust the steel band.
Where can I get a tool to OPEN THE BACK of the watch?
I recently took my watch to a local jewelry store who quoted $8 dollars
to adjust the steel band but who actually charged me $16 dollars
because it was 8 dollars PER SIDE! When I asked why, he said he had to
take a link out of each side so he charged double the quote!
If I knew that it would cost me that much (half the price of the watch)
I would have purchased a kit to do it myself. Does anyone have a good
reference for a watch kit that will also open up the back of the watch
(it has a six dents equally spaced in the back of the watch for
whatever tool goes there).
BTW, the actual links are really a half-round pin, folded over, flat
sides touching, so that it looks like a slotted flathead screwdriver on
the side it comes out and it looks like a round head on the side you
punch but it's really just a half-round doubled over length of metal
pin acting like a spring because it's bent over in half.
Now that the band is fixed, I've learned my do-it-yourself lesson the
hard way.
But, where can I get a tool to OPEN THE BACK of the watch?
Frank Adam
>BTW, the actual links are really a half-round pin, folded over, flat
>sides touching, so that it looks like a slotted flathead screwdriver on
>the side it comes out and it looks like a round head on the side you
>punch but it's really just a half-round doubled over length of metal
>pin acting like a spring because it's bent over in half.
>
>Now that the band is fixed, I've learned my do-it-yourself lesson the
>hard way.
>
That 8 bucks a side is a rip off. Those pushpins are generally easy as
pie to knock out and back in. 10 bucks(Aussie) would have been a fair
price. And you'd be paying for my time(all 3 minutes of it) and my
knowledge(we'll assume i'm good at what i do). :)
>But, where can I get a tool to OPEN THE BACK of the watch?
>
Here is one that should do the job. It's cheap enough to try.
http://www.slarose.com/cgi-bin/slarose/063263
And here are some others. If your budget and interest is big enough,
then get the on the top of the page. "Jaxa Swiss" is the pro's choice.
http://www.ofrei.com/page557.html
Have fun.
--
Regards, Frank
Vanessa
After googling & froogling for "watch band link remover adjustment", we
realized for ten to twenty bucks we could buy the needed metal watch
band link adjustment tool.
I also stopped off at another jeweler who said he'd adjust the watch
band for fifteen bucks which was more than some of the tools so I
respectfully declined.
We ended up pushing the pins out with a bent steel pin and removing a
link on each side by removing four pins total and putting back two of
them. Leftovers were two links and two cotter pins as shown in the
photos I just hosted here
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/8283/watcha5pr.jpg
and here
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6603/watchb3dk.jpg
Notice the link is actually two pieces of metal bent together as
mentioned by someone in this thread previously.
If anyone wants me to, I can measure the diameter of the pin with a
micrometer that the boys at work have if you need that data. The
hardest part my son said was he kept losing the pins on the garage
floor and it took him a while to find a thin enough pin pushing tool -
he eventually used what is shown in the photos.
VCS
Frank Adam
<snip>
>We ended up pushing the pins out with a bent steel pin and removing a
>link on each side by removing four pins total and putting back two of
>them. Leftovers were two links and two cotter pins as shown in the
>photos I just hosted here
>http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/8283/watcha5pr.jpg
>and here
>http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6603/watchb3dk.jpg
>
>Notice the link is actually two pieces of metal bent together as
>mentioned by someone in this thread previously.
>
Yep, they are quite common and are easy to remove as long as you do
have a small and hard enough pin. When i say pin, it should be a flat
top punch. Pins will just damage the band's pin and it may never come
out.
Here are some band tools if anyone else is in need:
http://www.ofrei.com/page237.html
As you say for 15 or so bucks there are a few there, which will tackle
your band quite nicely.
>If anyone wants me to, I can measure the diameter of the pin with a
>micrometer that the boys at work have if you need that data. The
>hardest part my son said was he kept losing the pins on the garage
>floor and it took him a while to find a thin enough pin pushing tool -
>he eventually used what is shown in the photos.
>
An old ground flat 0.70-.80 screwdriver does wonderfully well.. :-)
--
Regards, Frank
Rod Speed
And even if you have to buy one to grind flat, they cost peanuts.
Rod Speed
Pity its not true of the screw back removers.
rusty...@yahoo.com
> Here are some band tools if anyone else is in need:
> http://www.ofrei.com/page237.html
Q: Which of the tools removes the Rolex Oyster Perpetual back cover?
Fifteen years ago I bought a second-hand steel/gold Rolex Oyster
Perpetual (pre sapphire crystal) date adjust watch (just the numers,
not the day of the week) for about $1800 if I remember correctly.
>From a frugality standpoint, I was sick and tired of battery
replacement, watch band deterioration, and winding battery-less
watches; so, from that standpoint, it was a bargain in that this watch
is self winding, the gold/steel band is practically indestructable,
and, of course, no batteries!
However, the first "adjustment" cost $300; the first major overhaul
cost $800, and now it's broken again (my kids dropped it on the cement
and it stopped working instantly). So, from a frugality & reliablity
standpoint, this watch has been a bust (it's just sitting in my "things
to fix" drawer).
I'm done taking it to a watchsmith (see why above).
Now I just want to see if I can visually see what is broken inside.
Maybe it's something simple that I can get fixed for less than $800.
Therefore, I just want to take off the back plate,
Q: Which of the tools would you recommend to open the Rolex Oyster
Perpetual?
Scott
news:1121718889.4...@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Therefore, I just want to take off the back plate,
> Q: Which of the tools would you recommend to open the Rolex Oyster
> Perpetual?
http://makeashorterlink.com/?U35D3137B
Opens 'em right up.
Noah Little
And, Rusty, when you're finished with your DIY repair, I'll give you
$100 for the watch.
--
Noah
Jamie Cook
"Noah Little" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:dbh5vi$5gl$3...@n4vu2.n4vu.com...
<And, Rusty, when you're finished with your DIY repair, I'll give you
<$100 for the watch.
Honest Noah ?!?
Frank Adam
>Frank Adam wrote:
>> Here are some band tools if anyone else is in need:
>> http://www.ofrei.com/page237.html
>
>Q: Which of the tools removes the Rolex Oyster Perpetual back cover?
>
If you are already buying the Jaxa case opener, it comes with bits
'D', which have surrated jaws. As long as you can clamp the watch down
somehow and push down real hard on the back as you turn it, that will
open most Rolex cases. Problem is, if the back is very tight, it *can*
slip and damage the back.
Some of the other cheaper Jaxa-like sets may be ok too for a one off
job, but it's a trial and error.
The proper opener should be a round ring which fits the back
perfectly. On this page you can find some Rolex case tools.
http://www.ofrei.com/page557.html
As you'll see they are not exactly cheap. One could almost buy a
quarter of a Rolex for the best priced one. ;-)
>However, the first "adjustment" cost $300; the first major overhaul
>cost $800, and now it's broken again (my kids dropped it on the cement
>and it stopped working instantly). So, from a frugality & reliablity
>standpoint, this watch has been a bust (it's just sitting in my "things
>to fix" drawer).
>
Thank Rolex for driving up their own prices and making it unprofitable
to most watchmakers to even contemplate touching their watches.
Mind you, dropped watches are not really an indication of a quality
problem. Rest assured you have a fine watch there.
What should be remembered is that most customers will only have their
watches serviced when they stop. This could be as much as 10-15 years
intervals and frankly in that time you've spent how much on servicing
your car, which sits in the parking lot 70% of it's life ? :)
Every 5 years, folks. Oils *are* oils.
ps: Hope this x-post is not ticking people off at rec.scuba, m.c.f and
a.h.r. If so, <points finger> he started it, go get him ! ;-)
--
Regards, Frank
rusty...@yahoo.com
> >Q: Which of the tools removes the Rolex Oyster Perpetual back cover?
...
> Mind you, dropped watches are not really an indication of a quality
> problem. Rest assured you have a fine watch there.
Yes. That Rolex is absolutely BEAUTIFUL INSIDE (from a metalworking
standpoint)!
When I first bought this used Rolex, it didn't keep good time (losing
perhaps a minute a day). I opened the back simply by using a small
flathead screwdriver in the notches, twisting out the normal way. I was
AMAZED at how BEAUTIFUL it was inside! Honed out of a single block of
stainless steel & gold, it seemed. There was a fine gold coiled spring,
with a big counterweight, and what looked like a solid silver
backplate, and a red stone in the middle of the spring and a very easy
to adjust adjustment lever with a few alignment marks on that spring.
The entire inside was an absolutely beautiful sight. I adjusted it for
a few weeks until I got it down to a loss of about 20 seconds a day but
I never did get the timing exact. (Maybe there are other not-so-obvious
adjustments?)
I closed it up each day as tightly as that screwdriver would allow me
to.
Then one summer, I went swimming in a volcano in Greece (Thira) and the
sulphur got inside somehow and gummed it all up. That's when I had the
$800 repair. I haven't opened it since then because I'm told it's been
sealed with Argon gas. Is that true?
My point is, the case can be opened with a screwdriver but I prefer to
use the correct tool (so I'll check out the wonderful link you provided
above); but I'm asking an ancilliary question of alt.horology ... which
is...
Once opened ...
Q: Does the Rolex need to be sealed in a special gas environment?
P.S. Removed scuba as this no longer applies to scuba diving ...
Moka Java
>
> When I first bought this used Rolex, it didn't keep good time (losing
> perhaps a minute a day). I opened the back simply by using a small
> flathead screwdriver in the notches, twisting out the normal way.
You're not going to open a properly pressure sealed watch with a
screwdriver unless you have super human powers. Is your real name Clark
Kent?
I was
> AMAZED at how BEAUTIFUL it was inside!
Really? Beautiful? Rolex finish is workman like but nothing more.
Looks like crap compared to this.
http://www.tp178.com/mh/union_panorama/index.html
Honed out of a single block of
> stainless steel & gold, it seemed.
Where was the gold? Looks like rhodium plated brass to me.
There was a fine gold coiled spring,
> with a big counterweight, and what looked like a solid silver
> backplate, and a red stone in the middle of the spring and a very easy
> to adjust adjustment lever
Sounds like a fake Rolex. There's no regulator lever on a datejust
movement! You got taken 3 times over!
Or
YOU'RE A TROLL1111111
Richard "TROLL! TROLL! RUN AWAY! TROLL! TROLL!!!" F
dAz
>
>
> And, Rusty, when you're finished with your DIY repair, I'll give you
> $100 for the watch.
you are being generous :)
would not give him $5 after he has finished with it.
Scott
"dAz" <dazb@zipDOTcomDOTau> wrote in message
news:42dc542d$0$28768$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
How much is the scrap value?
dAz
for the raw materials not much unless there is some gold in the case or
movement, for undamaged secondhand parts you would make a bit back, but
you would have to cover stripping out the parts, id them, pack and post,
sell them on ebay :)
Scott
"dAz" <dazb@zipDOTcomDOTau> wrote in message
> for the raw materials not much unless there is some gold in the case or
> movement, for undamaged secondhand parts you would make a bit back, but
> you would have to cover stripping out the parts, id them, pack and post,
> sell them on ebay :)
In other words, less than the 10k price for new.
But, we who dont need a 10k watch already knew.
dAz
> "dAz" <dazb@zipDOTcomDOTau> wrote in message
>
>
> But, we who dont need a 10k watch already knew.
>
>
the cost of materials is nothing, why it annoyed me during the 70s when
gold went through the roof that people were scraping gold pocket watches
for the sake of a few grams of gold, many fine and compicated watches
were lost during that time.
Scott
"dAz" <dazb@zipDOTcomDOTau> wrote in message
I am a machninst by trade, and fully appreciate the craftsmanship that goes
into a Rolex.
At the same time I realize that Rolex trades in a name and a brand that rich
people think put feathers in their hat.
It is a very inportant issue to have the image a Rolex on your wrist
(Chinese rip off or otherwise) to many people, becuase they feel they have
rub their wealt up against others with wealth.
It can be the biggest chunk of shit ever made, but what sells it is the
perception of exclusivity.
After all, only the elite and wealthy can afford and appreciate a ten
thousand dollar watch, that is an overpriced chunk of shit.
Gerald Miller
I took my Grandad's pocket watch in for repair and the watchmaker was
unable to open it so I brought it home. That evening, I ran a bead of
silicone caulking around, inside the rim of a 2" pulley. Next morning
I used this "gripper" to unscrew the cover, after which I went back
and showed the watchmaker how I had done it and explained that I had
probably succeeded because it was my watch and I didn't have to worry
about explaining to a customer how I had messed up his antique watch.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
Frank Adam
>When I first bought this used Rolex, it didn't keep good time (losing
>perhaps a minute a day). I opened the back simply by using a small
>flathead screwdriver in the notches, twisting out the normal way. I was
>
Um, i'd be extremely surprised if you could open a properly tightened
Rolex Oyster with a "small" screwdriver. You could probably chisel it
open but the damage to the case back would be severe.
>Then one summer, I went swimming in a volcano in Greece (Thira) and the
>sulphur got inside somehow and gummed it all up. That's when I had the
>$800 repair. I haven't opened it since then because I'm told it's been
>sealed with Argon gas. Is that true?
>
No.
>My point is, the case can be opened with a screwdriver but I prefer to
>use the correct tool (so I'll check out the wonderful link you provided
>above); but I'm asking an ancilliary question of alt.horology ... which
>is...
>
>Once opened ...
>Q: Does the Rolex need to be sealed in a special gas environment?
>
No, except for air for the person present. ;-)
--
Regards, Frank
Frank Adam
<grmi...@rogers.com> wrote:
>I took my Grandad's pocket watch in for repair and the watchmaker was
>unable to open it so I brought it home. That evening, I ran a bead of
>silicone caulking around, inside the rim of a 2" pulley. Next morning
>I used this "gripper" to unscrew the cover, after which I went back
>and showed the watchmaker how I had done it and explained that I had
>probably succeeded because it was my watch and I didn't have to worry
>about explaining to a customer how I had messed up his antique watch.
>Gerry :-)}
>
Yep, there are shallow cups of varius sizes available for that
purpose, made from rubber. You simply used your brain, i'll withhold
any kudos for that watchmaker though.
ps: My old boss used to open them getting the grip with fine emery
paper. By the time i've become an apprentice he caught on, that one
can use any soft sheet of thin rubber and a suitable die from a glass
press(for the uninitiated, this looks like one half of a pulley).
--
Regards, Frank
rusty...@yahoo.com
> > I'm told it's been sealed with Argon gas. Is that true?
> No.
> >Q: Does the Rolex need to be sealed in a special gas environment?
> No, except for air for the person present. ;-)
> > I opened the back simply by using a small flathead screwdriver
> Rolex Oyster with a "small" screwdriver. You could probably chisel it
> open but the damage to the case back would be severe.
Hi Frank,
I looked up your posts and you're a legit guy so I respect your advice.
I'm glad you've said the Rolex isn't filled with an inert gas as I
always wondered about that particular detail.
The funny thing is, and this is wierd, I pulled the watch out of the
drawer this morning because I wanted to find the serial number and then
I shook it feverishly to wind it up and then banged it a few times
against the bedpost (pretty hard, with about the force we throw a
baseball into a mitt) and lo and behold ... that old Rolex started
ticking again!
Sweet! That barely audible fast-paced tickit tickit tickit tickit sound
I haven't heard in years! Within a minute, it stopped once and I banged
it again. That sweetly revived Rolex has been ticking for about 6 hours
now without stopping (I'm wearing it on my wrist right now, to keep it
wound).
The only problem is my wrist must've grown in the intervening years as
the band is a bit too tight nowadays. I remember having links removed
years ago so I will try to dig them up as I'm pretty sure the jeweler
gave them back to me (they are partially gold, after all). I hope I
saved them in the original box which, since I moved a few times, is
buried somewhere in my old stuff in the basement.
Thanks for your advice.
I moved the main questions about the serial number over to a separate
thread as this really has nothing to do with adjusting the band on a
Swiss watch (although the gold-plated silver face does say "T Swiss
Made T", whatever those "t's" mean.
RD
rusty...@yahoo.com
I looked you up and you appear to be legitimate based on your posts so
I will take the time to courteously answer your questions and
observations.
> >Honed out of a single block of stainless steel & gold, it seemed.
> Where was the gold? Looks like rhodium plated brass to me.
I don't know about that gold. I am quoting from my memory from many
years ago, probably more than a decade, give or take a few years. I
just remember it being very solid looking and very well machined out of
a single block as far as I could tell.
> > There was a fine gold coiled spring ... and a red stone in the middle
> > of the spring and a very easy to adjust adjustment lever
> Sounds like a fake Rolex. There's no regulator lever on a datejust
> movement! You got taken 3 times over!
Huh? I'm pretty sure it's not fake as it was sold by a jeweler
(although not an "official Rolex jeweler") but a jeweler nonetheless
who'd be out of business the first fake Rolex he got caught selling.
Plus it was in for repairs twice and you'd think _those_ official Rolex
jewelers would have mentioned something. And, there's that pawn shop in
Texas (admittedly not a reliable source based on the price he quoted of
about $500 which can only be for a stolen Rolex - certainly not for a
fake, I would think).
Again, I'm quoting all of this from memory, but, interestingly, the
Rolex spring adjust didn't seem very much different than that which you
pointed us to at http://www.tp178.com/mh/union_panorama/index.html
Specifically, the lever looked very much like the adjustment in the
photo
http://www.tp178.com/mh/union_panorama/bilder/union_pano_geh01_txt.jpg
Are you saying this kind of lever is NOT in a Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Datejust of probably '70s vintage (I have a separate thread on the year
of manufacture).
RD
rusty...@yahoo.com
> It can be the biggest chunk of shit ever made, but what sells it is the
> perception of exclusivity.
>
> After all, only the elite and wealthy can afford and appreciate a ten
> thousand dollar watch, that is an overpriced chunk of shit.
Hi Scott,
I see you normally hang out on rec.scuba so you probably wouldn't think
of wearing a Rolex watch because you need other features in a diving
watch, which I can agree with. But, I do think your concerns deserve
addressing.
First off, this water resistant Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust
chronometer was no where near ten thousand dollars in cost. That may be
the case (even more actually) for a gold Rolex; but this DateJust is
stainless steel and gold and it only cost me about $1800, used (more
than a decade ago). Since it's working again, polished up, I could
probably get that much for it (based in input I see today) on the open
market, so, at least it held its value (albeit not above inflation) in
the intervening years.
Why would anyone buy a two thousand dollar watch is still a valid
question.
Did you ever buy something just because it was well made?
Did you ever buy something to last forever (your lifetime as the
measure)?
Did you ever buy something because you thought it would be maintenance
free?
If not, you'll never understand why anyone could pay thousands of
dollars for a watch when a ten dollar Casio tells time better. For that
matter, why buy a forty thousand dollar Bimmer or a seventeen thousand
dollar Beemer when a twenty thousand dollar Chevy gets you from point a
to point b just as fast.
Now, in my case, the "illusion" of maintenance free was a farce (as it
cost me over $1100 in repairs alone already) - but the other two
concerns (well made and it should last forever, with maintenance) still
seem valid to me at this time.
This is a well made watch. Probably just as well made as that $2500
rubber-banded analog Tag Heuer 2000 Aquagraph or Bell & Ross Hydromax
you wear yourself when diving today.
RD
Michael Wolf
>
> Why would anyone buy a two thousand dollar watch is still a valid
> question.
>
> Did you ever buy something just because it was well made?
> Did you ever buy something to last forever (your lifetime as the
> measure)?
> Did you ever buy something because you thought it would be maintenance
> free?
>
> If not, you'll never understand why anyone could pay thousands of
> dollars for a watch when a ten dollar Casio tells time better. For that
> matter, why buy a forty thousand dollar Bimmer or a seventeen thousand
> dollar Beemer when a twenty thousand dollar Chevy gets you from point a
> to point b just as fast.
>
> Now, in my case, the "illusion" of maintenance free was a farce (as it
> cost me over $1100 in repairs alone already) - but the other two
> concerns (well made and it should last forever, with maintenance) still
> seem valid to me at this time.
>
> This is a well made watch. Probably just as well made as that $2500
> rubber-banded analog Tag Heuer 2000 Aquagraph or Bell & Ross Hydromax
> you wear yourself when diving today.
>
> RD
>
Hi Rusty,
How can you still consider it well made , when you already had to spent
1100$ on repairs?
At this rate I would put the money aside and buy an new one instead of
trying to make it 'last forever'.
Michael, who (for already quite some time) uses a 230$ Seiko when
diving... (OK, I bought it duty free)
--
Michael Wolf
-----
Cthulhu For President.
Why settle for the lesser evil?
remove stopspam to reply
Honest John
<rusty...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1121764170.2...@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
"whatever those "t's" mean."
Those Ts simply refer to the luminous substance used in the watch to make
the hands and dots "glow in the dark". I believe the Ts stand for Tritium,
the amount of Tritium used is above a certain industry established limit for
this slightly radioactive substance. Sort of like a "warning label". Ts
are used on other watch, also.
Scott
news:1121765867.9...@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
How about a used Mazda truck that cost $1,000, and gets 28 MPG?
> Now, in my case, the "illusion" of maintenance free was a farce (as it
> cost me over $1100 in repairs alone already) - but the other two
> concerns (well made and it should last forever, with maintenance) still
> seem valid to me at this time.
Which is the hook.
> This is a well made watch. Probably just as well made as that $2500
> rubber-banded analog Tag Heuer 2000 Aquagraph or Bell & Ross Hydromax
> you wear yourself when diving today.
I have a Rolex. A gold Oyster Perpetual.
It was given to me by the gent who owned the 61' Swan I crewed.
(If you want to know what hell is, just change the starter on the Volvo
Penta diesel that the Swan was built around. I swear they must have
suspended that engine magnetically and built the boat around it.)
It doesn't work. It's a piece of junk. But its purty.
I have an UWATEC bottom timer for diving.
I am a machinist by trade, so I don't wear watches or any other jewelry;
potentially bad for the limbs.
Rod Speed
> <rusty...@yahoo.com> wrote
>> whatever those "t's" mean.
> Those Ts simply refer to the luminous substance used in the watch to
> make the hands and dots "glow in the dark". I believe the Ts stand
> for Tritium, the amount of Tritium used is above a certain industry
> established limit for this slightly radioactive substance.
Tritium is a radioactive isotope of hydrogen, the one after deuterium.
Unlikely that thats in a watch to make the hands glow.
rusty...@yahoo.com
> How can you still consider it well made when you already had to spent
> 1100$ on repairs?
This is a good point. I'm not so sure anymore about Rolex.
Certainly I'd never buy another one nor recommend it.
But, I'm already sunk in the Rolex mud, so to speak.
Amortized, it's been about $100 a year for maintenance for this Rolex
watch.
Of course, that might not be a representative number (I have no idea).
I wonder what other people pay in "typical" Rolex maintenance.
Certainly I had gone in on the watch with the assumption of it lasting
forever with little to no maintenance; and just as certainly, I've had
over $100 a year in unexpected maintenance & repair costs ... yet I
wonder what OTHER people experience.
Maybe my experience is atypical. I don't know.
At the moment, my main problem is assessing whether its worth fixing.
One thing I may do is buy the tools to open it up and to remove the
band.
Once I open it up the right way (I don't want to hack it again), I
might see what's broken inside.
BTW, after shaking it violently yesterday, it worked for about 12 hours
then stopped again. I suspect an attachment point broke but I won't
know until I open it up again. Sure I can stop at a jeweler to ask him
to open it but I don't mind buying the tools if I can get them at a
reasonable price.
Honest John
"Rod Speed" <rod_...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3k4ulgF...@individual.net...
"Unlikely that thats in a watch to make the hands glow"
Then what substance is in "Tritium tubes" that make several makes of watches
hands glow ????
Rod Speed
> Rod Speed <rod_...@yahoo.com> wrote
>>>> whatever those "t's" mean.
>>> Those Ts simply refer to the luminous substance used in the watch to
>>> make the hands and dots "glow in the dark". I believe the Ts stand
>>> for Tritium, the amount of Tritium used is above a certain industry
>>> established limit for this slightly radioactive substance.
>> Tritium is a radioactive isotope of hydrogen, the one after deuterium.
>> Unlikely that thats in a watch to make the hands glow.
> Then what substance is in "Tritium tubes" that make
> several makes of watches hands glow ????
Those are actually glass vials, and it isnt
really that practical to do the 'dots' that way.
Frank Adam
wrote:
<sigh>
Now don't you think that arguing with a regular alt.horology user
about these things is just plain silly ?
"Besides radium, there are several other methods of making "glow in
the dark" watch dials. There are various non-radioactive phosphor
compounds that will glow in the dark after being exposed to light.
Some modern compounds can glow for 10 to 15 hours after a relatively
short exposures to bright light. Tritium, like radium, is radioactive,
but it is much safer. Tritium, a form of hydrogen, has a reasonably
short 12 year half life so it doesn't have the long term dangers that
radium has, and it decays into harmless helium. The beta particles
that tritium gives off can not even penetrate the outer layer of dead
skin on your body, let alone the watch crystal and watch case."
source: http://elginwatches.org/help/luminous_dials.html
And yes, the 'T' means Tritium on watch dials.
--
Regards, Frank
I am nobody
features of the "perfect" watch? Here's my personal criteria:
Light weight- I don't prefer a heavy watch
Rugged case and band- I wear mine 24/7
Metallic Link band- easy on and off, no water problems like
leather
Sapphire crystal for scratch resistance
Analog- I'm old and I have to think too much to use digital time
Day, Date- (see above- grin)
Quartz crystal accuracy- even a cheap quartz watch is more
accurate than most mechanical
Self energizing- no batteries to fool with
Water resistant to at least 100'- if it's lower than that
and I'm attached, it doesn't matter. This covers the pool,
spa and shower, for me.
Visible all night long without pressing any button
What this all boils down to is my Seiko Kinetic Titanium
watch with the Illuminator face. Being Titanium, the watch
and band are rugged, light and easy to take off or put on.
The analog watch is driven by a Quartz movement for
accuracy, and the charge is maintained by an actual
generator in the watch- like a perpetual mechanical watch.
The entire face is lighted all night, with the hands visible
by the backlighting. The watch was $450 in the late 90's
and is now about $300 in St. Maarten or St. Thomas.
The drawback to this is that it's not a showy watch, but at
least the Titanium case and band have some gold plated areas
that look great. I got mine about 1997 or so, as I recall,
and it has been working great ever since.
Nobody
Rod Speed
> Rod Speed <rod_...@yahoo.com> wrote
>> Honest John <hones...@centurytel.net> wrote
>>> Rod Speed <rod_...@yahoo.com> wrote
>>>> Honest John <hones...@centurytel.net> wrote
>>>>> <rusty...@yahoo.com> wrote
>>>>>> whatever those "t's" mean.
>>>>> Those Ts simply refer to the luminous substance used in the watch
>>>>> to make the hands and dots "glow in the dark". I believe the Ts
>>>>> stand for Tritium, the amount of Tritium used is above a certain
>>>>> industry established limit for this slightly radioactive substance.
>>>> Tritium is a radioactive isotope of hydrogen, the one after
>>>> deuterium. Unlikely that thats in a watch to make the hands glow.
>>> Then what substance is in "Tritium tubes" that make
>>> several makes of watches hands glow ????
>> Those are actually glass vials, and it isnt
>> really that practical to do the 'dots' that way.
> <sigh>
Heavy breathing has been banned in here.
> Now don't you think that arguing with a regular alt.horology
> user about these things is just plain silly ?
Might be if I had actually bothered to look that individual up.
Then again, I often do point out the stupiditys in the posts of even
the stupidest, mainly so other readers wont buy the bullshit.
> "Besides radium, there are several other methods of making "glow
> in the dark" watch dials. There are various non-radioactive phosphor
> compounds that will glow in the dark after being exposed to light.
> Some modern compounds can glow for 10 to 15 hours after a relatively
> short exposures to bright light. Tritium, like radium, is radioactive,
> but it is much safer. Tritium, a form of hydrogen, has a reasonably
> short 12 year half life so it doesn't have the long term dangers that
> radium has, and it decays into harmless helium. The beta particles
> that tritium gives off can not even penetrate the outer layer of dead
> skin on your body, let alone the watch crystal and watch case."
> source: http://elginwatches.org/help/luminous_dials.html
> And yes, the 'T' means Tritium on watch dials.
How about a cite on the chemistry of that.
Jamie Cook
"Frank Adam" <fa...@notthis.optushome.com.au> wrote in message
news:n7qqd1lplq7s9qh3v...@4ax.com...
"Now don't you think that arguing with a regular alt.horology user about
these things is just plain silly ?"
Thanks, Frank ! You "saved-the day" again !
Jamie Cook
"Rod Speed" <rod_...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
"Then again, I often do point out the stupiditys in the posts"
Look in the mirror and point to yourself!
the swisswatchguy
Rod Speed
> Speaking or wrist watches, what do others consider to be features of the
> "perfect" watch?
I dont bother with them anymore, I get the time from the
cellphone in the rare situation where I care about the time.
Rod Speed
> Rod Speed wrote
>> How about a cite on the chemistry of that.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tritium
Useless on what chemical is used on the watch hands and dots.
And mechanical watches are complete dinosaurs anyway.
dazed and confuzzed
> Michael Wolf wrote:
>
>>How can you still consider it well made when you already had to spent
>>1100$ on repairs?
>
>
> This is a good point. I'm not so sure anymore about Rolex.
> Certainly I'd never buy another one nor recommend it.
> But, I'm already sunk in the Rolex mud, so to speak.
>
> Amortized, it's been about $100 a year for maintenance for this Rolex
> watch.
> Of course, that might not be a representative number (I have no idea).
> I wonder what other people pay in "typical" Rolex maintenance.
FWIW, I have a Tag 2000 automatic, and I have averaged about $20 per
year for the past 14 years on maintenance.(not counting broken and/or
melted crystals, which are certainly not the watches fault)
But I don't take it diving...
--
"Tolerance is the virtue of a man without convictions"
G.K. Chesterton
c_gir...@hotmail.com
> And mechanical watches are complete dinosaurs anyway.
you seem pretty much afraid of what makes mankind tick: soon you shall
wish to replace your heart with a pump, your kidneys with a filter and
your brains with a computer and reach for the skies: good luck!
Alan Street
<dedmann@comcast_remove.net> wrote:
I'm afraid to ask - how do you "melt" a crystal.
Rod Speed
> Rod Speed wrote:
>> And mechanical watches are complete dinosaurs anyway.
> you seem pretty much afraid of what makes mankind tick:
Just your pathetic little drug crazed fantasy.
dazed and confuzzed
Casting aluminum and Iron.
If you forget to take them off, you can sometimes crack them from
spatter when welding without gloves.
Breaking them from imapacts while wearing your watch on your wrist is
more painful, however, and the effects are probably longer lasting.
Suprisingly, they resist a grinding wheel quite well.
YMMV
c_gir...@hotmail.com
> Michael Wolf wrote:
> I'm afraid to ask - how do you "melt" a crystal.
plexiglass: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plexiglass and many others you
can find with google
sapphire crystal: look for thread "sapphire glass types" April 11-14,
2005
c_gir...@hotmail.com
> Just your pathetic little drug crazed fantasy.
- "The dumbest people I know are those who know it all." - Malcolm
Forbes
zog
Rod Speed is a moron, just plonk him.
RAM^3
Oh, really? <G>
You'd be well advised to do a "tiny" bit of research on the commercial use
of Tritium: quite a number of companies use "dots" on their products,
especially in the armaments field.
Beretta, for example. <VBG>
dazed and confuzzed
>
> sapphire crystal: look for thread "sapphire glass types" April 11-14,
> 2005
>
which group? (since this was crossposted)
Frank Adam
wrote:
>the swisswatchguy <swissw...@hotmail.com> wrote
ROTFLMAO!
Ad hominem directed at a watch !?
You have clearly evolved, Rod..
--
Regards, Frank
Rod Speed
> Rod Speed <rod_...@yahoo.com> wrote
>> the swisswatchguy <swissw...@hotmail.com> wrote
>>> Rod Speed wrote
>>>> How about a cite on the chemistry of that.
>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tritium
>> Useless on what chemical is used on the watch hands and dots.
>> And mechanical watches are complete dinosaurs anyway.
> ROTFLMAO!
Pathetic, really.
> Ad hominem directed at a watch !?
Nope.
> You have clearly evolved, Rod..
Pathetic, really.
David Johnson
>
> Where can I get a tool to OPEN THE BACK of the watch?
>
> I recently took my watch to a local jewelry store who quoted $8 dollars
> to adjust the steel band but who actually charged me $16 dollars
> because it was 8 dollars PER SIDE! When I asked why, he said he had to
> take a link out of each side so he charged double the quote!
>
I probably would have told him that I didn't authorize the increased
quote, and I'd either pay the agreed-on fee or he was free to give me
the watch back in it's original condition. If he insisted, I'd ransom
the watch, but only after letting him know that I'd make sure to give
him at least $8 in bad advertising.
> If I knew that it would cost me that much (half the price of the watch)
> I would have purchased a kit to do it myself. Does anyone have a good
> reference for a watch kit that will also open up the back of the watch
> (it has a six dents equally spaced in the back of the watch for
> whatever tool goes there).
Harbor Freight and Ebay have the tool you'll need. You want "Jaxa
type", with three pegs, not the claw type with 2. You may also need
jeweler's screwdrivers, Harbor Freight has a $2 set (at the front
counter in my local) that's worth the money, but if you aren't already
going there almost any set will work well enough for changing batteries.