Best solder free electrical connection
john hamilton
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).
My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.
Ralph Mowery
"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:i4btbg$m7c$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
While you don't want to hear it, solder it. Just use some fine 60/40 rosen
core solder. The main thing with soldering is to get the connection clean.
If bare copper wire, scrape or sand it so it shines.
I would not use the nail varnish. Copper wire should hold its shape without
the varnish. Also the varnish could get between the wire and tabs. You
might want to get some electrical tape and wrap it longways around the
battery box to help hold the wire in contact with the tabs.
Toby
"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:i4btbg$m7c$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Solder is the only reliable way, IMO
Just bend the tabs out, so they are not touching the plastic, make sure the
iron is nice and hot, dab some solder on the end of the iron, then place
this on one of the tabs and feed in a little more solder to tin the tab,
should take a couple of seconds.
Now strip about 5mm of the wires and tin the end of the wire, if the
insulation shrinks back, then snip the end of the wire off so it is about
5mm.
Place the wire on top of the solder on the tab and heat the wire until the
solder on the tab melts again.
Hold the wire with something other than your hand, as it may get quite hot!
Once it has cooled, marvel at your handywork :-)
Or, buy these two from eBay, or anywhere that sells this sort of stuff...
350373699059 (Twin AA battery holder with a PP£ type connector on the top)
and one of these
350350685890 (PP3 battery connector)
Toby...
Rich Webb
What Ralph said. Also, if you can get some, apply a dab of rosin flux
paste to the joint before you heat it. That helps the solder to "wet"
the surfaces and flow into the joint better.
And ensure that you have something keeping the battery holder and the
wire in place. I'd go so far as to put batteries in the thing so that it
could be clamped into a soft-jawed vice and use one of those "third
hand" thingies to hold the wire securely. Trying to keep the battery
holder in place with your palm, the wire under your elbow, with the
soldering iron in one hand and the solder in the other isn't likely to
result in a satisfactory soldering job. Not that *I've* ever done that,
of course <cough cough>
--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
Owain
> And ensure that you have something keeping the battery holder and the
> wire in place. I'd go so far as to put batteries in the thing so that it
> could be clamped into a soft-jawed vice and use one of those "third
> hand" thingies to hold the wire securely. Trying to keep the battery
> holder in place with your palm, the wire under your elbow, with the
> soldering iron in one hand and the solder in the other isn't likely to
> result in a satisfactory soldering job. Not that *I've* ever done that,
> of course <cough cough>
I've used one hand for the Thing, one hand for the iron, and held the
solder in my mouth before now ...
Fumes can get a bit eye-stingy though.
Big wodges of blu-tack can also be handy.
Owain
Andrew Gabriel
If you say which town/country you live in, someone here might
volunteer to solder it for you. If you have an electronics repair
shop near which does the work on the premises, they would probably
do it.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
jeff_wisnia
While I agree with previous posters that soldering shouldn't be a big
problem, if you really don't want to try it yourself you should be able
to find someone else who will.
Or, go for your "twist through the holes" approach and use a drop of
electrically conductive epoxy on the joint:
http://www.pemro.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=LOC-1119
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.
The Natural Philosopher
..which will at best approximate to a 1k ohm resistor.:-)
> Jeff
>
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
Surely you know someone who knows how to solder. You need clean bare
metal, some solder and some flux, and a hot iron. Practice a little
bit on a strip of metal the same size as the tab, that you cut from a
tin can.
Djornsk
Depending on the dimensions of the tab it may be possible to bend it
around the wire and carefully crimp it with sidecutters. Next try to
anchor the wire to the battery holder a short distance along the wire
from the tab to prevent it fracturing due to movement or vibration.
You could then use your varnish (or a glue gun) to coat the connection
to offer some protection from oxidation.
This is not as good as a soldered joint done properly, but would
probably be better than a soldered joint done badly.
j
tm
"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:i4btbg$m7c$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Why don't you try to learn to solder? Get some copper wire and practice
making connections. Ten or so should get you going. Not only will you
achieve
your task but you will have picked up a new skill as a plus. The trick is to
place the hot iron against the joint and heat it until it will melt the
solder. Just
hold the solder on the joint until that point. To see if the iron is hot
enough, just
melt some solder on the tip. This is known as tinning the tip. Clean the tip
by
wiping it on a damp sponge.
You will only need a 15 to 25 watt iron to do this and some rosin core
tin/lead
solder. Radio shack comes to mind for both.
Have fun.
tm
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ne...@netfront.net ---
Bob Eager
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
> anything to stick to the tabs.
To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
solder.
--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor
Fred McKenzie
"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote:
> Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor.
John-
Soldering appears to me to be the best solution. Invite a friend to do
the soldering. Bend the tab up first, and solder quickly to minimize
melting the plastic underneath. The plastic should become firm again
after it cools.
What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?
Fred
tony sayer
<jwisniaDu...@conversent.net> scribeth thus
>john hamilton wrote:
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>
>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>
>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>
>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>
>While I agree with previous posters that soldering shouldn't be a big
>problem, if you really don't want to try it yourself you should be able
>to find someone else who will.
>
Better still have a practice on some bits of wire etc before you do this
joint and than you've learnt a new skill:))..
Do get the joint hot, and keep it hot just long enough to make it all
flow properly it seems to me that under powered irons are the biggest
cause of poor soldering...
--
Tony Sayer
robgraham
I notice that nobody has raised the point for the OP that his problem
of previous soldering is that he is possibly using too powerful a
soldering iron - one with too big a bit. This is the most likely
cause of his problem with melting the support for the tag he is
soldering to. Haven't we all done it - and even with a temperature
controlled one and 50 years of experience I softened the mount for the
centre pin of a connector yesterday, and had to go back and apply heat
to straighten it.
John - I've had a quick scan through Ebay and suggest that
#370414838261 is a good buy (ie I've got one!) for a controlled iron
if you feel that the advise to try,try,try again is worth following.
Rob
steve robinson
Try lead based solder 60/40 has a lower melting point
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
Is the OP in the USA or the UK or where?????
rangerssuck
Take it to the local TV repair guy, and ask him to teach you how to do
it, so you'll be prepared for next time.
Alternatively, Assuming you're in the US, go towww.arrl.org (American
Radio Relay League) and find an amateur radio guy in your area (just
search by state, and with a little poking around, you'll find someone
nearby). Virtually ALL of these people know how to solder, and will
likely be extremely willing to help you learn how.
Ralph Mowery
"Bob Eager" <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:8ctifb...@mid.individual.net...
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
>
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>> anything to stick to the tabs.
>
> To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
> temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
> solder.
>
That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
melt the solder.
The 63/73 is the way to go, but 60/40 is just fine. Also do not move the
wires while the solder is cooling. This is one big way to mess up the
joint.
Ralph Mowery
"rangerssuck" <range...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f58e1c93-6fef-4cf0...@5g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
.
>Alternatively, Assuming you're in the US, go towww.arrl.org (American
>Radio Relay League) and find an amateur radio guy in your area (just
>search by state, and with a little poking around, you'll find someone
>nearby). Virtually ALL of these people know how to solder, and will
>likely be extremely willing to help you learn how.
That sounds like a good idea, but I bet a very few of them know how to
solder or even have a soldering tool. That comes from be being a ham for
over 35 years and knowing the ones in the local area.
Many that know how will usually be willing to help.
tony sayer
Mowery <rmower...@earthlink.net> scribeth thus
Seems its a dying craft making any of your own gear now.
Anything on You tube on soldering at all?..
--
Tony Sayer
Nate Nagel
meh? I still solder quite regularly, because if nothing else, I'm far
more likely to have solder and heat shrink handy than I am butt splices
and a crimping tool.
Also, the tool makes a huge difference. I (heart) my ancient Weller
soldering station, the constant-temp tips make life so much better.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
Bob Eager
Point taken, but I didn't mean *that* much lower. It just reduces the
complete melting point by a few tens of degrees; clearly it has to be hot
enough to do the joint quickly.
RES
"Nate Nagel" <njn...@roosters.net> wrote in message
news:i4cdu...@news2.newsguy.com...
> On 08/16/2010 05:56 PM, tony sayer wrote:
>> In article<Q7OdnZbA56RZMvTR...@earthlink.com>, Ralph
>> Mowery<rmower...@earthlink.net> scribeth thus
>>>
>>
>> Seems its a dying craft making any of your own gear now.
>>
>> Anything on You tube on soldering at all?..
>
> meh? I still solder quite regularly, because if nothing else, I'm far
> more likely to have solder and heat shrink handy than I am butt splices
> and a crimping tool.
>
> Also, the tool makes a huge difference. I (heart) my ancient Weller
> soldering station, the constant-temp tips make life so much better.
This is an aside to the discussion on soldering, but it might be of some
general interest. A relative of mine is the manager of a fairly large
electronics manufacturing plant here in the US. Yup, they make electronic
devices here in the USA and have been kicking Pacific Rim, China and Mexican
exports in the rump for years. The devices are major and fairly custom made
for each customer. The result is that our intelligent and educated shop
people are flexible in what they can do, where Pacific Rim only exceed where
it's highly routine.
That aside, he took me on a tour of the plant one day while it was in
operation. The each circuit board, once components are in place, is
rigorously tested by computerized probes that can identify and isolate
specific components that are either bad or didn't get soldered in properly.
The boards are flagged and sent to the "repair" benches. There, about a
dozen people with soldering irons desolder the component and replace it by
hand. The boards then go back to be tested and certified for installation
into the "big iron." Each station had at least 5-6 soldering irons of
various wattages and tips PLUS laminar flow air hoods to extract any fumes.
The lighting was very good, also, as you'd suspect.
He told me that the dozen or so people who man the repair stations and
soldering irons are some of the most highly paid of the hourly workers,
since it takes a combination of manual dexterity, attention to detail and
patience to get the new components in place properly.
Nonny
Ralph Mowery
"RES" <nothin...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:PbednRs86MmTX_TR...@giganews.com...
> soldering irons are some of the most highly paid of the hourly workers,
> since it takes a combination of manual dexterity, attention to detail and
> patience to get the new components in place properly.
>
I can believe that. I have built some simple electronic devices using 5 or
6 of the old style ICs that had 14 to 40 pins on them and put together some
kits that had about 30 ICs on them.
I have not tried any of the newer surface mounted devices. Doubt that I
ever will due to the size of them. Can't see the things and don't have the
tools to do it.
Bob Eager
> "RES" <nothin...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:PbednRs86MmTX_TR...@giganews.com...
>>
>>
>> "Nate Nagel" <njn...@roosters.net> wrote in message
>> news:i4cdu...@news2.newsguy.com...
>> He told me that the dozen or so people who man the repair stations and
>> soldering irons are some of the most highly paid of the hourly workers,
>> since it takes a combination of manual dexterity, attention to detail
>> and patience to get the new components in place properly.
>>
>>
> I can believe that. I have built some simple electronic devices using 5
> or 6 of the old style ICs that had 14 to 40 pins on them and put
> together some kits that had about 30 ICs on them.
I've been soldering (on and off) for well over 40 years, and find it
strangely satisfying! Last project was one of these:
http://www.sparetimegizmos.com/Hardware/SBC6120-2.htm
and these:
http://www.sparetimegizmos.com/Hardware/SBC6120_Front_Panel.htm
Great fun to build and to program!
> I have not tried any of the newer surface mounted devices. Doubt that I
> ever will due to the size of them. Can't see the things and don't have
> the tools to do it.
I keep meaning to have a go, since I seem to have mastered single-eye
soldering now.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<blues...@mail.invalid> wrote:
>I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>upwards giving some clearence).
>
>http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
>My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
>If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>gratefull. Thanks.
>
Bad idea. The nail varnish is an insulator, and is likely to wick back
into the (non) connection.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Ore use a conductive "glue" like the stuff sold to fix rear window
defroster grids, or printed circuit traces. After making the good
electrical contact with that (it is usually silver bearing) add a dab
of epoxy, or even hot melt glue, to give it a bit of mechanical
support.
Or just learn to solder - - - - .the low temperature eutectic "paste
solder" would actually work pretty good for this and only requires
minimal heat.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
And a good reason to use 63/37. It is a "fast freeze" solder (the real
term is Eutectic - meaning it has a very narrow "plastic" range,
essentially going almost instantly from solid to liquid, and liquid to
sollid, with no "putty" stage in between.
aemeijers
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>
trashing the battery box, a 2xAA holder in pretty common, and should not
be hard to find at Radio Shack (or whatever the UK equiv is), or online,
like at MPJA.com. For a toy with a half-life of hours, I have even
taped the wires to the end of the battery, and jammed/taped them back
into the box. (may have to extend the wires to do that.)
--
aem sends...
J Burns
> "Bob Eager" <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote in message
> news:8ctifb...@mid.individual.net...
>> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
>>
>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
>>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>> anything to stick to the tabs.
>> To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
>> temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
>> solder.
>>
>
> That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
> iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
> tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
> the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
> melt the solder.
Overheated tips give me a hassle with oxidation. I think the most
important factor is thermal conductivity to the joint. The flow can be
slow with a small pencil-pointed iron. A bigger tip with a flat side
can work much faster.
I'd clean the iron, tab, and wire, make a good mechanical connection,
apply rosin flux to the connection and the iron, and turn on the iron.
When the flux smoked, I'd begin testing the iron by touching solder to
it. When it melted solder quickly, I'd touch the iron to the
connection. Almost instantly, the flat side of the tip and the drop of
molten solder should conduct enough heat to the joint for it to draw
solder from the iron. I'd have the iron out of there before the plastic
could soften.
Dadburnit, the last battery holders I bought had the tabs riveted to the
battery contacts. They develop resistance from invisible corrosion
around the rivets. I have to keep spraying with contact cleaner. I
also have jumper cables that develop resistance from unseen corrosion
where the wires are crimped.
Smitty Two
"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
Go buy a battery holder that has leads already attached. Twist those
leads to the leads coming from the toy.
Smitty Two, who owns a soldering company, has taught 50 people to
solder, has soldered hundreds of thousands of components by hand, and
knows that while soldering is easy, it can't be taught in two minutes
with a paragraph.
tm
"Smitty Two" <prest...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-E25BE...@news.eternal-september.org...
No, not for mil spec results. But this is just a friggin toy. Solder it.
Smitty Two
"tm" <the_ob...@whitehouse.gov> wrote:
> No, not for mil spec results. But this is just a friggin toy. Solder it.
The OP already said he solders poorly. For $1.50 or so he can buy a damn
battery holder with wires attached. He can do it before or after he
melts the one he has trying to solder it.
Jeff Liebermann
Sigh. No imagination left on Usenet. OK, no soldering or heat
allowed. Some ideas.
>http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
Plan A: Looks like the rivets used to mount the contacts have a
through hole in them. Shove a 2-56 flat head bolt through the hole
from the inside. Put two washers, lockwasher, and a nut on the
outside. Wrap the wire around the bolt between the washers and
tighten the nut. If you can't find a bolt that fits, you might be
able to find a suitable copper rivet. Beat on it with a hammer to
assemble.
Plan B: Thread the rivet hole and insert a lockwasher and 2 washer
sandwitch held in place with a small bolt. Getting the bolt length
correct will be the major challenge.
Plan C: Strip off about 3cm of wire from the leads. Bend into a
spiral. Shove the spiral between the battery contacts and the
matching rivet and spring. Be sure you have a good electrical
connection. Wrap the whole mess in giant shrink tube, electrical
tape, duct tape, or just bury it in hot melt glue. Whatever it takes
to keep the wires from moving.
Plan D: Buy a dual AAA cordless phone battery pack. They usually
have two leads and a connector. Chop off the connector, strip the
leads, and twist the matching wires together. Wrap with electrical
tape or use shrink tube.
Plan E: Brute force cold welding. If the wires are copper, you can
just run them through the holes in the terminals and pound everything
flat with a small hammer and anvil. The copper will cold flow and
eventually create a solid connection. You may need to add additional
soft copper wire filler to get a proper connection. See any jewelry
maker or blacksmith for details.
Plan F: Forget the holder and just spot weld wires directly to the
battery. This is far more fun than learning to solder as it throws
spark and hot slag all over the place.
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yabesdeGKJo>
Since you probably don't have a cazapitive discharge spot welder, drag
it down to the local Batteries Plus store and have them do it.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
rp
>Take it to the local TV repair guy, and ask him to teach you how to do
>it, so you'll be prepared for next time.
My dad taught me to solder back in the early sixties.
He got a block of wood and hammered a load of those little nails that
you use to hold hardboard in and told me to join all of them together
with wire. We had a stick of solder about an eighth of an inch thick
and a tub of flux and the first one I did was a mess but after about 20
or so they were neat.
With those plastic battery boxes I've found you have to have a nice big
bit in a hot iron and be quick, more than about a second and the
plastic melts. I put the wire through the hole and wrap it around
itself to make a mechanically good joint or if it's solid core bend it
through the hole and nip it up with pliers. Put the tip on the tag and
the wire and poke solder at the join between the two. You can't do them
with a little Antex, it transfers heat so slowly that the plastic melts
before the solder. It's the Weller W50-D for this sort of connection
:-)
--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com
Kellerman
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>
need solder with ACTIVATED FLUX. Tin-lead stuff with activated flux,
greater than about 0.5% halides (if you can buy it now) will produce a
better result in a home DIY environment. If the description says
"non-corrosive flux" then that's the wrong type. You need the slightly
corrosive action of the halides to remove the oxide from from the nickel
so that the solder will alloy with the nickel.
Practice if first on a similar material.
Dave
--
Blow my nose to email me
jeff_wisnia
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>
Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
by now? <G>
Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.
Tabby
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
If you really cant solder it, wrap the wire through the tags, then
round them a couple of times, then slide a bit of stretched rubber
tube over it. Solder's best though.
NT
Matty F
wrote:
> john hamilton wrote:
> > I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> > soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> > melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> > stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> > upwards giving some clearence).
>
> >http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> > My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> > connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> > Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> > If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> > gratefull. Thanks.
>
> Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
> by now? <G>
>
> Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)
I used to have trouble with bigger soldering jobs. I could never get
enough heat into the objects being soldered.
I have no problem now that I made a solder pot:
http://i47.tinypic.com/2yyqq6w.jpg
It's sitting on a 1000 watt stove element. I have a little lid for it
so we don't poison too many people with lead!
Jeffrey Angus
> It's sitting on a 1000 watt stove element. I have a little lid for it
> so we don't poison too many people with lead!
Melt lead in a well ventilated area and exhaust fumes to the outside.
Air movement that is sufficient to carry away the wisp of smoke from an
extinguished match is generally considered sufficient ventilation. Lead
melts at 621 degrees (F). When lead is molten, it releases minute
amounts of vapors at a progressive rate as temperatures are increased.
Harmful levels of lead vaporization are believed to occur at elevated
temperatures above 1800 degrees (F). Only lower temperatures between
700-800 degrees are normally needed to cast lead hobby parts. Most
melting equipment sold to hobbyists will not raise temperatures much
above 900 degrees. Minimize vaporization by operating melters at the
lowest temperature that gives good results.
Unless you've got your solder pot cranked up well over 800 F I don't
think you're going to be sucking up any lead vapors.
Jeff
Michael A. Terrell
Fred McKenzie wrote:
>
> What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
> rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?
How are you going to keep oxygen out of the threads?
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
wrote:
If the screws are big enough, they will be in direct contact with the
other metal. That should last at least 10 years which is much more
than the life of a typical child's toy the OP described.
Cydrome Leader
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
crimp, swage or weld?
soldering is as easy as it's going to get for something like a battery
holder.
The Daring Dufas
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>
If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:
http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
TDD
Michael A. Terrell
That depends on how well sealed the cheap batteries are.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Not important. If they are tight (and dry) there will be no
corrosion.
Michael A. Terrell
If you say so.
GregS
>I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>upwards giving some clearence).
>
>http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
>My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
>If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>gratefull. Thanks.
Considering that a good solder joint has good mechanical connection
your method should would work fine, but you should use quick epoxy instead.
The slow epoxy is best however.
greg
Robert Green
Since you've clearly eliminated solder from contention, I would suggest:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/WG-1/CONDUCTIVE-GLUE-0.3-FL.OZ.//1.html
"An all-purpose, electrically conductive glue ideal for bonding all kinds of
low-voltage connections. Makes a permanent bond without heat. Lead-free. 0.3
fl.oz. jar."
While it's really more of a conductive paint than a glue, it's been useful
to "replate" switch contacts on IR remote control units and to attach small,
fine wires like those required by glass solar panels where soldering may
cause serious damage if not done expertly. They also sell all sorts of
battery holders and soldering tools.
You might be able to gain strength by building up the material in layers and
then covering it with hot melt glue to add physical strength. Even will all
that I would solder but use a small alligator clip to "wick" the iron's heat
away from the plastic. Buy a new iron and some spare tips and practive a
little. I was amazed to learn how much a good tip is worth when soldering.
--
Bobby G.
"john hamilton" <blues...@mail.invalid> wrote in message
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