replacing the blower motor on my car
OhioGuy
put it on the high setting. I was unable to remove the blower (it is a
squirrel cage type) because the alternator is too close, so I simply
made a vampire tap (drilled a hole) on the front of the motor casing,
and squirted in some WD-40. The squealing stopped for a while, then
came back. Over the next few months, the fan seemed to be slowly dying,
but it worked ok on low or medium without any noise.
This morning, my wife went to take the kids to school, and the fan
wouldn't work at all. I guess it had finally given up the ghost. Of
course, this means that the defroster no longer works, and we can't
really heat the car or anything, so it needs fixed.
I was able to get a replacement for $26 at Auto Zone. The problem is
that I was only able to remove the old one by pulling it apart on the
way out. (I.E. - ripping apart the wires & such that hold it together)
It seems like they stuck the squirrel cage/centrifugal blower casing
right behind the alternator to make it almost impossible for most folks
to replace this on their own. If there was simply 3/4" more clearance,
I could simply pop it in with 5 metal screws securing it.
Instead, if I can't figure out how to get past this, the $26 repair
will probably cost more than $100. This is very aggravating, because
from records I find online, this would have been a simple 10 minute
repair job on most cars from the 1980's or earlier, with no clearance
problems.
Anyone know how to move an alternator up and out of the way on a 1996
Buick Century? (or where I might be able to find some helpful info on
something like that?) Thanks!
Vic Smith
>
> Anyone know how to move an alternator up and out of the way on a 1996
>Buick Century? (or where I might be able to find some helpful info on
>something like that?) Thanks!
Ask at rec.autos.tech. But if it close to being like most of the
similar GM's I've done, it goes like this:
Turn the tensioner to loosen and disconnect the serpentine belt from
the alt pulley.
Use a wrench or maybe a pry bar. Be careful you don't break anything
with the pry bar.
Remove a couple bolts to move the alt.
If you have mess with the wiring to the alt, or there's the chance of
it shorting anywhere on the engine, disconnect the battery first.
Reverse the process after you replace the blower motor.
If you disconnected the battery, you might have to "relearn"
the electronics.
You can look that up, or ask at rec.autos.tech.
Don't hold me responsible if you mess something up.
Just be careful and know what you're doing before you start.
--Vic
Jeff
> On Tue, 21 Oct 2008 15:25:45 -0400, OhioGuy <no...@none.net> wrote:
>
>> Anyone know how to move an alternator up and out of the way on a 1996
>> Buick Century? (or where I might be able to find some helpful info on
>> something like that?) Thanks!
>
> Ask at rec.autos.tech.
Or get a repair manual. That's a common enough problem. You can read the
manual in store if you don't feel like coughing up the $12.
I believe Auto Zone also has as online "How To".
Jeff
NotMe
"OhioGuy" <no...@none.net> wrote in message news:gdlacf$ps0$1...@aioe.org...
| Back in May I noticed that our car's blower was squealing whenever I
| put it on the high setting. I was unable to remove the blower (it is a
| squirrel cage type) because the alternator is too close, so I simply
| made a vampire tap (drilled a hole) on the front of the motor casing,
| and squirted in some WD-40. The squealing stopped for a while, then
| came back. Over the next few months, the fan seemed to be slowly dying,
| but it worked ok on low or medium without any noise.
NEVER EVER use WD40 as a lubricant. A good general purpose light duty oil
is what's sold for air tools.
Jeff
Many people think it's not a particularly good "Water Displacement"
either. All that can be said of it is that it must have been better than
the first 39!
Jeff
>
>
viet nam vet.
Jeff <jeff@spam_me_not.com> wrote:
I have seen owner's repair manuals at Used Book stores.
anyway good luck.
--
Money; What a concept !