Only 30k miles from tires?
m...@privacy.net
tires!
I just bought 4 new tires July 2006 and 30k miles later
(now) they are almost worn out.
Is 30k mile abt right for tire life now days?
What you get?
val189
I buy tires in the 80-90 dollars each range and get about 45 to 50
thousand miles. Set on car now is Bridgestone.
This is a tough subject to discuss - depends a lot on driver's habits
as well as the tire's quality. Are you braking at the last second,
cornering too fast...?
NEVER waste your money on retreads.
clams casino
The OEM tires on my previous 2000 Accord went over 100k.
The Goodyear OEM tires on my current 2005 Pilot look fine at 80K and
will likely also reach 100k.
Likely depends on driving habits as well as type / style of tire.
George
Depends, if they are the low profile "race car tires" that seem to be
popular for some reason it may be even less.
Dennis
Depends on the tires. If you buy cheap Korean/Chinese off-brands
(e.g., Jupiter) that they sell for cheap at the discount stores, you
can expect to get about 20-30K out of them. I have had much better
performance (50-60K+) from the Michelins that I buy from Costco.
Dennis (evil)
--
My output is down, my income is up, I take a short position on the long bond and
my revenue stream has its own cash flow. -George Carlin
James
My OEM Dunlops that came with my Van lasted close to 50,000 miles and
I am hard on tires. I could have gotten another 10,000 kms, but they
were bad in the winter (I run without snows), noisy and I didn't like
the handling charecteristics.
My replacements, Goodyear Tripletreds are 30,000 miles and still fine.
Some tires have softer grippier compounds that wear out faster.
So some of the tires that the boy racers use in their souped up Hondas
dont' last long. Long wearing tires tend to feel harsh.
All tires are a compromise.
James
The Henchman
<m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:3eptk3p0k2o6a5uk0...@4ax.com...
Most "new" cars are shipped with lower mileage tires but those tires handle
and grip better and are much quieter.
What was the treadlife rating for your tire? Sounds like it was a 360.
My Sebring was shipped with Goodyear Eagle LS that were 360T treadlife
rated. Performance type tire. I got 60 000 Kms from them. My new
Michelins are Harmony/Destiny/X-Radial type. They are rated for 760 or 130
000 kms. More than double the life. But they don't corner as well and
are much noiser than the shorter life tires.
Read up on Treadlife ratings. The Treadlife rating is on your tire.
timeOday
> On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 10:16:36 -0600, m...@privacy.net wrote:
>
>> Seems like my 2000 Mazda Protege ES just goes through
>> tires!
>>
>> I just bought 4 new tires July 2006 and 30k miles later
>> (now) they are almost worn out.
>>
>> Is 30k mile abt right for tire life now days?
>>
>> What you get?
>
> Depends on the tires. If you buy cheap Korean/Chinese off-brands
> (e.g., Jupiter) that they sell for cheap at the discount stores, you
> can expect to get about 20-30K out of them. I have had much better
> performance (50-60K+) from the Michelins that I buy from Costco.
>
> Dennis (evil)
Of course good brands make short-lived tires too. I once got some
Pirelli tires for my 98 Jetta GLX. Boy did those wear out fast. I
guess they were somewhat of a performance tire, also with its V6 engine
the car is somewhat heavier than most cars that use those sized tires.
nos...@nospam.com
<gweh...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>NEVER waste your money on retreads.
Retreads used to be a bargain but they are costing more now or so they say.
They only peel off on over loaded and over heated semi trucks, not on cars.
Gordon
What was the rated life of the tire?? 30K may be what
they were rated for.
Had the alignment checked recently?
Also check the wear pattern. Over or under inflated tires
will wear out faster.
A trick to extending tire life on a front wheel drive car
is to not rotate the tires. On a front wheel drive car
the front tires take most of the wear. Go ahead and let
them wear. Then replace them. But keep the rear tires.
Logan Shaw
> A trick to extending tire life on a front wheel drive car
> is to not rotate the tires. On a front wheel drive car
> the front tires take most of the wear. Go ahead and let
> them wear. Then replace them. But keep the rear tires.
I don't get how this extends the life of the tire. What you
save in wear on the back, you'll lose in wear on the front.
Also, the point of rotating tires is not just to make sure
one tire gets as much wear as another tire; it's also to
make sure that the entire surface of each tire gets worn
as evenly as possible. Tires on the front may get more wear
in one spot than tires on the back, and tires on the back
may get more wear in some other spot than tires on the front.
Rotating the tires ensures that each tire experiences a
variety of wear patterns and hopefully wears more evenly.
- Logan
m...@privacy.net
>cornering too fast...?
Not that I'm aware of
m...@privacy.net
>>
>> What you get?
>
>Depends, if they are the low profile "race car tires" that seem to be
>popular for some reason it may be even less.
Well these are V rated tires.... but that's what is
supposed to go on my car and what the OEM tires were
Does that info help?
m...@privacy.net
>(e.g., Jupiter) that they sell for cheap at the discount stores, you
>can expect to get about 20-30K out of them. I have had much better
>performance (50-60K+) from the Michelins that I buy from Costco.
Well I'm a Costco member and that is where I got these
tires
But they are Goodrich Traction TA and are V rated
Again.... for a 2000 Mazda Protege ES compact car....
nothing special abt the car at all
m...@privacy.net
>worn out
OK.... well this may be normal then as they are in fact
V rated tires..... but on a compact car
m...@privacy.net
>is to not rotate the tires. On a front wheel drive car
>the front tires take most of the wear. Go ahead and let
>them wear. Then replace them. But keep the rear tires.
What abt buying NON directional tires and just rotating
them all front to back and side to side?
George
"V" is a 149 MPH speed rating which means they have really soft rubber.
I would think it is unlikely that you ever drive in that speed range?
Thats what I meant when I said "race car tires". One of the things I
look at when I buy a car is whether it has race car tires because I had
a car that did and didn't realize the issues until after I bought it.
The tires were expensive, didn't last because they were so soft and
there were no other choices because of the wheels, clearances and they
were not a common size.
George
I don't understand the trick. I think there will be little actual
difference in "tire consumption" compared to rotation.
m...@privacy.net
>I would think it is unlikely that you ever drive in that speed range?
OK
Will it be OK to downgrade to a lower rating tire to
get longer life tho?
Again... the V rating tires is what is SUPPOSED to be
on this economy car..... makes no sense to me.... but
that is what the OEM tires were... V rating
Ron Peterson
> What you get?
I got 40,000 miles with my last set, I still had some wear left (I
replaced them because they were old).
There are now tread wear ratings for tires, so you can factor that
into your tire cost.
See http://www.goodyeartires.com/goodyeartireselector/ for an example
of tire information that is available. I bought my latest set of tires
to have the best all season traction.
--
Ron
Logan Shaw
> Will it be OK to downgrade to a lower rating tire to
> get longer life tho?
>
> Again... the V rating tires is what is SUPPOSED to be
> on this economy car..... makes no sense to me.... but
> that is what the OEM tires were... V rating
The most important things for safety are that you make sure you get
the right size of tire (both width and height) and that you get a
sufficient load rating (which is how much weight the tire can bear).
The speed rating is only important if you want to go that fast, or if
you are a car manufacturer worried about liability. Basically, if the
car is capable of 130 mph, the tires need to be capable of that too.
I believe this is the law in some (many? all?) places.
Having said that, I don't think there's a guarantee that getting a
lower speed rating will give you a longer-lasting tire. It's true
that high-performance tires will tend to have a shorter life and a
higher speed rating, but it's entirely possible to get performance
tires with a lower speed rating and a shorter life.
My advice is to go to tirerack.com, enter the info about your car,
and see their list of compatible tires. Then learn what the size
codes (like "225/45VR17"), service description codes (like "91H"),
and UTQG codes (like "460 A A") mean, and choose a tire based on its
specs and based on the reviews. People will tell you in the review
if the tire wears out unexpectedly fast. (My car came with some
Pirelli P6 Four Seasons tires that wore out fast and developed an
annoying noise, and sure enough, many people had the same experiences
and wrote about it there.)
About specs: in the UTQG number rating (that looks like "460 A A"),
the number at the beginning indicates treadwear, and it's based on
actual tests where they drive the car around on the highway. A higher
number is better, and the number is basically sorta proportional to
the expect wear of the tire.
Finally, keep in mind expected life of the tire vs. cost of the tire.
If you can pay twice as much for a tire that is expected to last twice
as long, my advice is, don't. You have more money invested in the
tires and if something happens (flat tire, or you just sell the car),
you have more to lose. IMHO, you want the best bang for the buck,
but you also want to bias it (har har) toward lower-priced tires
a bit since tires may not be able to serve you for their entire life
for whatever reason.
- Logan
Dennis
ZOOM-ZOOM!
Unfortunately, that's the market that Mazda is targeting these days --
the posers who buy econoboxes and pretend they have race cars (present
company excluded, of course :-). Too bad, too -- I really liked my
1992 Protege.
Dennis (evil)
--
I'm a hands-on, footloose, knee-jerk head case. -George Carlin
Gordon
news:zJCdnU5aE9h0os3a...@comcast.com:
> Gordon wrote:
>> m...@privacy.net wrote in news:3eptk3p0k2o6a5uk0s1q7k04r4edkf3lla@
Because the front tires take most of the braking and acceleration.
it isn't just rotation that wears out tires. On a front wheel drive
car the front tires work very hard.
Gordon
$4c36...@roadrunner.com:
> Gordon wrote:
>> A trick to extending tire life on a front wheel drive car
>> is to not rotate the tires. On a front wheel drive car
>> the front tires take most of the wear. Go ahead and let
>> them wear. Then replace them. But keep the rear tires.
>
> Also, the point of rotating tires is not just to make sure
> one tire gets as much wear as another tire; it's also to
> make sure that the entire surface of each tire gets worn
> as evenly as possible. Tires on the front may get more wear
> in one spot than tires on the back, and tires on the back
> may get more wear in some other spot than tires on the front.
> Rotating the tires ensures that each tire experiences a
> variety of wear patterns and hopefully wears more evenly.
>
> - Logan
If your tires are wearing that differently it's time for
an alignment. I only see major differences in wear when there
is an aignment problem
George
I know that front tires wear quicker especially on front wheel drive.
But the car has 4 tires and there is a net amount of wear no matter
where the tires are installed. My question was how is there a reduction
in net wear by not doing rotation?
Gordon
dncbpGKul1szan...@comcast.com:
>>
>> Because the front tires take most of the braking and acceleration.
>> it isn't just rotation that wears out tires. On a front wheel drive
>> car the front tires work very hard.
>
> I know that front tires wear quicker especially on front wheel drive.
> But the car has 4 tires and there is a net amount of wear no matter
> where the tires are installed. My question was how is there a reduction
> in net wear by not doing rotation?
>
>
I'm not sure. Your logic would seem to make sense. But my practical
experience suggests other wise. I tend to get 3X the life out of a
tire on the rear, but the life of the front tires isn't reduced by 3X.
What I generally do is; Start with 4 new tires. Replace the two front
tires when they wear out. When those wear out, put new tires on rear
and rotate rear tires to the front for the durration of their life.
One explanation is that the rear tires are now "aged" and have
gotten harder, thus they now wear longer.
Nicik Name
"Logan Shaw" <lshaw-...@austin.rr.com> wrote in message
news:474fc05e$0$8678$4c36...@roadrunner.com...
m...@privacy.net
why so ling?