Homemade Cleaner?
Pringles CheezUms
commercial general-purpose cleaner?
If not, what is the most effective commercial cleaner? We've always used
409 and have been reasonably happy with it, but if there's something
more effective I'm open to switching. That could include something you
could get at a warehouse or cleaning supply house too. I know Sams has
commercial cleaners but have never tried them.
Can anybody get heavy-duty professional stuff? Anybody in the business?
What do you use?
Thanks for the help!
Samantha Hill - remove TRASH to reply
> Is there a homemade cleaner that is as effective as (but cheaper than) a
> commercial general-purpose cleaner?
>
> If not, what is the most effective commercial cleaner? We've always used
> 409 and have been reasonably happy with it, but if there's something
> more effective I'm open to switching. That could include something you
> could get at a warehouse or cleaning supply house too. I know Sams has
> commercial cleaners but have never tried them.
Most janitorial supply companies are open to the public, and I have used
janitorial supply cleaners for over 20 years with great success with the
occasional Simple Green. The commercial cleaners are sold in gallon
containers, and you dilute them with water.
If you want natural-type cleaners, go search on Mother Earth News's web
site -- I was just surfing there the other day and saw a bunch of
articles on natural homemade cleaners.
hchi...@hotmail.com
Pro stuff is less generalized, and usually very very concentrated.
That said, the cheapest general purpose cleaner is...
water. Most of the time, water will remove plain ol dirt. Surfacants
primarily make water wetter to get to the stuff it is supposed to
clean. Distilled water cleans better than tap water, which often has
lime limiting some of the chemical stuff that goes on, and a cleaner
that doesn't work worth a darn when mixed with tap water may work
quite well when mixed (only) with distilled water.
Popular products to aid in GP floor cleaning contain either pine oil,
limonal (sp?), or some variation of TSP or an analog. When you get
outside of the GP floor cleaners, simple green is OK as an overall
cleaner, if you can stand the smell.
Where the commercial cleaners come into their own are the grease
cutters. Butyl degreasers are powerful, but can really wack out the
nerves in your hands if you don't use gloves. There are other
degreasers that clean nearly as well. Most all degreasers do not play
well with plastic, and work even more powerfully when warm.
Of the pro cleaning supply stuff that impressed me at the time, the
only thing that stands out is the aerosal canned "Misty Glass
Cleaner." That stuff was too goood, and was banned for use on
machinery by the company I worked for, because it stripped the fine
coating of oil and grease right out of the pores of exposed metal and
promoted rusting. The stuff was made in Atlanta, I think. There were
attempts at rip-offs, but those failed miserably at the same tasks.
Otherwise, spic-n-span does a decent job of general cleaning, and
unlike the Pine-sol or other pine oil products doesn't leave a buildup
of residue over time. Although pine oil is supposed to repel roaches,
I've seen bathrooms where the buildup of it and dirt was so thick the
roaches were thriving. Switching cleaners cleared up the problem.
Often, ammonia, vinegar, baking soda, salt, rubbing alcohol, hydrogen
peroxide, and wood ashes are all you need in your kit of cleaners. To
knock it up a few notches, buy a container of TSP, and maybe some
muriatic acid if you are cleaning tiles.
Walter
news:cccna4dl212avdgq9...@4ax.com:
> Often, ammonia, vinegar, baking soda, salt, rubbing alcohol,
> hydrogen peroxide, and wood ashes are all you need in your kit
> of cleaners. To knock it up a few notches, buy a container of
> TSP, and maybe some muriatic acid if you are cleaning tiles.
TSP great and so is hydrogen peroxide.
Dee
news:9p4na49p7traq7tkf...@4ax.com:
For most general cleaning tasks I use Dr. Bronner's liquid soap.
It's very concentrated so a bottle lasts a long time. I use about
1/2 tsp. to 20 oz. of water (that's the size of my spray bottle).
Another cleaner I use occasionally is equal parts alcohol and water.
It works well on glass, windows, and countertops. Don't use it on
painted surfaces, though, as it will remove latex paint.
For my kitchen vinyl floor, I use a mixture of water, ammonia, and
vinegar.
The only area that I have trouble with is the stovetop. I scrub it
with Bon Ami but the cooked-on grease is pretty tenacious. Anyone
have any suggestions for that?
Dee
clams_casino
>
>The only area that I have trouble with is the stovetop. I scrub it
>with Bon Ami but the cooked-on grease is pretty tenacious. Anyone
>have any suggestions for that?
>
>Dee
>
>
Haven't tried it in that application, but an orange-oil based product
(Goo Gone being an example) may be a solution. It's an excellent
degreaser (keep it off your hands for the same reason) plus it dissolves
sticky adhesives (and in a similar manner can adversely affect plastic
surfaces). Although the orange oil products dissolve in water, a quick
rinse with some alcohol on a paper towel should remove the residual
orange oil. Residual orange can leave a sticky residue & collect dirt
from the air. Keep in mind that pure orange oil has a low flash point -
can be flammable.
I'd apply it first to a paper towel rather than spraying it or pouring
it onto the stove top. Best not used near an open flame or hot burner,
even when diluted with water. I wouldn't use it on an ongoing basis,
but it could be useful used occasionally. When I worked in an adhesives
laboratory with stainless steel bench tops, it would bring a quick
shine, removing all grease, dirt & adhesives quite easily.
Dee
news:8xUqk.832$Ks1...@newsfe02.iad:
Thanks, clams. I have a bottle of Goo Gone already so I will give it
a try on the stovetop.
Dee
hchi...@hotmail.com
>The only area that I have trouble with is the stovetop. I scrub it
>with Bon Ami but the cooked-on grease is pretty tenacious. Anyone
>have any suggestions for that?
If there is no chromed metal or aluminum, then spray-on oven cleaner
is as good as anything. You can also try pooling ammonia (or a hot
solution of TSP) and letting it sit. Lay a paper towel over the area,
saturate it with ammonia, lay some plastic wrap on top, and leave it
for a couple of hours.
Whenever you are using chemicals, you can reduce your elbow grease
expenditure by letting the chemicals sit. I used to have to train
janitors on variations of the two mop system, where the first mop
swabbed on the chemical, which was allowed to sit, and later was
scrubbed with a brush. During the wait period, the clean mop was used
to wipe up the residue from a previous section. They were always
amazed that they could dramatically reduce the scrubbing required,
just by letting the chemical do its job. If you buy the stuff, it
pays to give it time to work. You'll need less and spend less time
and money. Oh yeah, contrary to the claims of clothes detergent
makers, hot water does speed up reactions, help loosen grease, and
make chemicals work better.
Dee
news:vscoa4p9p5fr68r6b...@4ax.com:
> On Wed, 20 Aug 2008 12:12:33 +0000, Dee <d@d.d> wrote:
>
>>The only area that I have trouble with is the stovetop. I scrub
>>it with Bon Ami but the cooked-on grease is pretty tenacious.
>>Anyone have any suggestions for that?
>
> If there is no chromed metal or aluminum, then spray-on oven
> cleaner is as good as anything. You can also try pooling ammonia
> (or a hot solution of TSP) and letting it sit. Lay a paper towel
> over the area, saturate it with ammonia, lay some plastic wrap on
> top, and leave it for a couple of hours.
The ammonia sounds like a good option to try.
> Whenever you are using chemicals, you can reduce your elbow grease
> expenditure by letting the chemicals sit. I used to have to train
> janitors on variations of the two mop system, where the first mop
> swabbed on the chemical, which was allowed to sit, and later was
> scrubbed with a brush. During the wait period, the clean mop was
> used to wipe up the residue from a previous section. They were
> always amazed that they could dramatically reduce the scrubbing
> required, just by letting the chemical do its job. If you buy the
> stuff, it pays to give it time to work. You'll need less and
> spend less time and money. Oh yeah, contrary to the claims of
> clothes detergent makers, hot water does speed up reactions, help
> loosen grease, and make chemicals work better.
Yes, I am lazy (and by that I mean 'efficient' ;-) so I do let
cleaners sit when called for.
I was actually thinking of making a paste with a little Tide and
trying that. I have used a pinch of Tide mixed with water
successfully to take out stains in carpet by brushing it in with an
old toothpaste and then blotting it out with my alcohol/water mix.
Works great.
Also, if you have one of those home carpet steam-cleaner machines,
I've found that, in lieu of the pricey detergent they sell in a
bottle, I can use 1/2 TBSP of unscented Tide (added to the 1 gallon
tank of boiling water) and it does a great job on the carpet.
Dee
Vic Smith
>
>Where the commercial cleaners come into their own are the grease
>cutters. Butyl degreasers are powerful, but can really wack out the
>nerves in your hands if you don't use gloves. There are other
>degreasers that clean nearly as well. Most all degreasers do not play
>well with plastic, and work even more powerfully when warm.
>
For home use a container of Goop or other automotive hand cleaner
comes in handy. Can pick it up cheap if you keep your eyes open.
Cuts any grease, and isn't supposed to hurt skin.
Got some roof sealer - tar- on my hands a week ago and it even took
that off. Downside is some people don't like the smell, but that can
be quickly gotten rid of with soap.
--Vic
hchi...@hotmail.com
>Also, if you have one of those home carpet steam-cleaner machines,
>I've found that, in lieu of the pricey detergent they sell in a
>bottle, I can use 1/2 TBSP of unscented Tide (added to the 1 gallon
>tank of boiling water) and it does a great job on the carpet.
Good thought. The powdered versions of detergents are a little less
likely to leave a film, but Tide is a commonly used detergent for
general cleaning. I've seen it used on concrete floors.
FWIW, about three times out of four, I use just plain water in my
"steam" cleaner. It limits the residue build-up, and any soap left
over from the last cleaning does double duty.
elise d faber
i use washing soda for degreasing. make a paste and let it sit for a
few minutes. then use a nylon scrubbee thing. cheap, and safe.
elise
clams_casino
>On Wed, 20 Aug 2008 00:23:35 -0600, hchi...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>>Where the commercial cleaners come into their own are the grease
>>cutters. Butyl degreasers are powerful, but can really wack out the
>>nerves in your hands if you don't use gloves. There are other
>>degreasers that clean nearly as well. Most all degreasers do not play
>>well with plastic, and work even more powerfully when warm.
>>
>>
>>
>For home use a container of Goop or other automotive hand cleaner
>comes in handy. Can pick it up cheap if you keep your eyes open.
>Cuts any grease, and isn't supposed to hurt skin.
>
>
If it contains orange oil (can be obvious by its odor), it will be
damaging to the skin.
Any degreaser will damage skin by degreasing (dissolving the fatty
tissues) in one's skin. A small amount will likely not be noticeable,
but not good long term. Best practice is to apply wearing protective
gloves, keeping in mind it had adversely affect the gloves. .
>Got some roof sealer - tar- on my hands a week ago and it even took
>that off. Downside is some people don't like the smell, but that can
>be quickly gotten rid of with soap.
>
>--Vic
>
>
Orange oil products are widely used in industrial applications to clean
tar, etc from floors. Excellent degreaser, tar remover - just be aware
it doesn't know the difference between the tar, grease & the fatty
tissues in your skin..
Vic Smith
<PeterG...@DrunkinClam.com> wrote:
>>>
>>For home use a container of Goop or other automotive hand cleaner
>>comes in handy. Can pick it up cheap if you keep your eyes open.
>>Cuts any grease, and isn't supposed to hurt skin.
>>
>
>If it contains orange oil (can be obvious by its odor), it will be
>damaging to the skin.
>
More readily detected by its obvious orange color, or the big print on
the container saying "Orange Hand Cleaner" or "Hand Cleaner with
Orange Oil" or "Orange Hand Cleaner with Orange Oil and Pumice."
But plain white Goop is better at cutting grease in my experience.
>Any degreaser will damage skin by degreasing (dissolving the fatty
>tissues) in one's skin. A small amount will likely not be noticeable,
>but not good long term. Best practice is to apply wearing protective
>gloves, keeping in mind it had adversely affect the gloves. .
>
It's "hand cleaner" so if you're cleaning your hands don't wear
gloves. Won't work. Just get the outside of the gloves real clean
and the inside real dirty.
If you're cleaning a pot with it, you can wear gloves or not.
It also works on grease/oil stain on clothing when rubbed into the
stain before the wash. But it will kill suds, so keep that in mind.
>
>>Got some roof sealer - tar- on my hands a week ago and it even took
>>that off. Downside is some people don't like the smell, but that can
>>be quickly gotten rid of with soap.
>
>Orange oil products are widely used in industrial applications to clean
>tar, etc from floors. Excellent degreaser, tar remover - just be aware
>it doesn't know the difference between the tar, grease & the fatty
>tissues in your skin..
I don't use the orange stuff, and white Goop works just as well.
Been using it for years and it's never hurt my hands.
Speaking only for *my* hands, but there are probably tens of thousands
of mechanics using it daily.
People have different skin sensitivities, so it's common sense to pay
attention to that, but "hand cleaner" has NEVER had bad effects on
my hands.
Navy alkaline soap powder TYPE II, or diesel oil with sugar scrubbed
with a wire brush didn't have much bad effect on my hands either, but
they hurt when hitting the nicks.
Hand cleaner is much better.
You make it sound like common hand clean used by tens
of thousands of mechanics will turn you hands into bones. Get real.
--Vic
clams_casino
>On Wed, 20 Aug 2008 14:22:09 -0400, clams_casino
><PeterG...@DrunkinClam.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>>>For home use a container of Goop or other automotive hand cleaner
>>>comes in handy. Can pick it up cheap if you keep your eyes open.
>>>Cuts any grease, and isn't supposed to hurt skin.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>If it contains orange oil (can be obvious by its odor), it will be
>>damaging to the skin.
>>
>>
>>
>More readily detected by its obvious orange color, or the big print on
>the container saying "Orange Hand Cleaner" or "Hand Cleaner with
>Orange Oil" or "Orange Hand Cleaner with Orange Oil and Pumice."
>But plain white Goop is better at cutting grease in my experience.
>
>
>
>>Any degreaser will damage skin by degreasing (dissolving the fatty
>>tissues) in one's skin. A small amount will likely not be noticeable,
>>but not good long term. Best practice is to apply wearing protective
>>gloves, keeping in mind it had adversely affect the gloves. .
>>
>>
>>
>It's "hand cleaner" so if you're cleaning your hands don't wear
>gloves. Won't work. Just get the outside of the gloves real clean
>and the inside real dirty.
>
>
Interesting that they would use orange oil in a hand cleaner considering
the MSDS in industrial applications clearly states to take precautions
with skin contact.
"Skin Contact: - In case of contact, immediately flush skin with plenty
of water. Cover the irritated skin with an emollient. Remove
contaminated clothing and shoes. Wash clothing before reuse. Thoroughly
clean shoes before reuse. Get
medical attention."
Guess small amounts or if formulated perhaps very diluted in a hand
cleaner is overlooked or doesn't fall under the guidelines as being a
potential hazard.
Vic Smith
<PeterG...@DrunkinClam.com> wrote:
>
>Guess small amounts or if formulated perhaps very diluted in a hand
>cleaner is overlooked or doesn't fall under the guidelines as being a
>potential hazard.
I think the orange stuff is mostly a marketing gimmick to target those
who don't like the smell of "normal" Goop-like hand cleaner.
But I'm not a chemist or epidemiologist, just a guy who knows what
works to clean his hands.
--Vic.
clams_casino
Orange oil is a very effective cleaner. It's probably no more hazardous
than turpentine. Used occasionally & cleaned / washed off quickly will
probably not be a problem for most.. The OP appeared to be female. We
used 5-10% solutions of orange oil to clean lab benches & equipment
where some technicians had adverse skin reactions (redness /
irritation), others didn't seem to be as affected (woman more so than
the men). I'm sure it's a time / concentration issue, but pouring
Goo Gone onto a paper towel & scrubbing a range top may be more exposure
than a typical woman might want on her hands.
Jeff
I would agree.
However, the raw hand cleaner is definitely rough on the skin. No
doubt why almost all brands contain lanolin. I tried the sans-lanolin
variety once which is why I know!
It is great for removing grease though.
Jeff
>
> --Vic.
>
>
terryc
> Is there a homemade cleaner that is as effective as (but cheaper than) a
> commercial general-purpose cleaner?
Yes and no. Magic wands are still in short supply. what works well on one
problem may not be the best on other problems.
FecklessThug
Dee
news:48ac5c04...@news.newsguy.com:
Hmm! I never would have thought of that. I have some washing soda for
my laundry. Thanks, elise.
Dee
clams_casino
Soda ash (washing soda) is indeed an excellent approach to removing
grease, oil and some stains, but it is relatively abrasive & thus should
be used cautiously. It's quite effective when used in a solution to
soak items, but could be abrasive if not completely dissolved (useful in
toothpaste, in part, due to its abrasive properties).
vjp...@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com
Given to me when my mom died.
THings like vineagar and toothpaste for cleaning
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
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