Kenmore Electric Range - Oven & Burners Not Working - Repair Guide

[Paul Michaels]

This past weekend the oven heating element and stove top burners on
our Kenmore electric range stopped working.

I did some quick online research and learned that the problem was most
likely due to a faulty 220V power connection. The appliance was still
getting 110v power because the clock/timer display and LED lights were
still working on the oven control unit.

I spent about 30 minutes checking and tightening all of the
connections and afterwards the 220v power supply was restored and the
range started working properly again.

I took pictures of the whole procedure and created a quick guide to
help out anyone else who may be experiencing the same problem with
their range.

Here's the photo album -
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Kenmore-Electric-Range-Burners-Oven-220V-Repair-Guide

Don't forget to unplug everything and turn off the power before you
begin! I hope this saves someone the expense of having to call a
repair technician. Good luck.

Cheers,
Paul Michaels
Ft. Lauderdale, FL

[Tony]

The clock/timer display and LED lights at cheapest is a 140 dollar replacement. The fucker
goes on all of them. First it starts by always having to reset the clock time then the whore
goes out and comes back on by itself. Then you're fucked and need a new stove or replcement
lcd unit. The lcd unit usually lasts around 5 years.

Paul Michaels wrote:

--
The Grandmaster of the CyberFROG

Come get your ticket to CyberFROG city

Nay, Art thou decideth playeth ye simpleton games. *Some* of us know proper manners

Very few. I used to take calls from *rank* noobs,

Hamster isn't a newsreader it's a mistake!

El-Gonzo Jackson FROGS both me and Chuckcar

Using my technical prowess and computer abilities to answer questions beyond the realm of
understandability

Regards Tony... Making usenet better for everyone everyday

[E Z Peaces]

It reminds me of the time my dryer sometimes wouldn't start. I spent
hours checking for resistance in the dryer's switches and connections,
for mechanical drag, and for an electrical problem in the motor. Last,
I checked resistance from the plug to the motor. The problem was in the
plug, which was simple and cheap to replace. The drop in voltage
wouldn't have appeared except when I was pressing the start button.

If you have more trouble, you could start by checking for 220 V between
red and black at the terminals where the power cord connects to the
range. If it's missing, you could slide the plug out slightly to check
for voltage on the blades.