Auto Related - Gas Saving Tips
Joe
really use it for anything other than commuting so here are some ideas I had
without going TOO extreme...
1. Remove unnecessary parts that are heavy and lower mileage... Trunk rugs,
unneeded tools, electric window motors(?), floor mats, hub caps, etc.
Anything that is extra weight...
2. Make sure my air filter is clean and free-flowing. Thought about a K&N
high flow filter, but at almost $60.00, I don't think it will pay for itself
in the long run... Especially with FI.
3. Clean the throttle body on my car. At 160,000 miles, it's all messy
inside.
4. No jack rabbit starts or cruising overly fast. No heavy acceleration on
the highway to pass, etc.
Any other thoughts?
Joe in Northern, NJ - V#8013-R
Currently Riding The "Mother Ship"
http://yunx.com/valk.htm
Ride a motorcycle in or near NJ?
http://tinyurl.com/5apkg
Hillary Exposed:
http://tinyurl.com/2v4avg
Logan Shaw
> Thinking about how to make my commuter car more gas efficient... I don't
> really use it for anything other than commuting so here are some ideas I had
> without going TOO extreme...
>
> 1. Remove unnecessary parts that are heavy and lower mileage... Trunk rugs,
> unneeded tools, electric window motors(?), floor mats, hub caps, etc.
> Anything that is extra weight...
I doubt trunk rugs or floor mats will make much difference. Electric window
motors will present a problem: without them in place, the windows will not
stay rolled up. If you do something to make them stay up without the motor,
that's not safe in case of a crash or similar. You could replace them with
a hand crank, but I don't know much weight you'd save.
You could probably safely remove the back seats, or front passenger seat,
or both.
You could fill up more often, but only fill the tank 2/3 of the way.
Gasoline seems to weigh about 6 lbs/gallon. Therefore, 10 gallons
weighs about 60 lbs.
> 2. Make sure my air filter is clean and free-flowing.
> 3. Clean the throttle body on my car.
Properly inflate the tires. Check them often.
Set the ignition timing. Set the fuel/air mixture. Or just do a full
tune-up.
If you're using an oil that's thicker than specs require, go with a
thinner one.
> 4. No jack rabbit starts or cruising overly fast. No heavy acceleration on
> the highway to pass, etc.
Use cruise control where it's safe to do so.
Coast, again only where safe.
Consider alternate routes. You might find a route that is less hilly,
or that has fewer stops. It's possible that one route takes slightly
more time but slightly less gas.
Consider commuting off hours. Go to work early. Or do a compressed
schedule (4 day work week with 10-hour days instead of 5 day week with
8-hour days).
After work, run errands (go to the bank, the grocery store, etc.) near
work instead of near home. Traffic will die down a little bit while
you're browsing around in the supermarket or whatever, and you won't
have to sit idling as much.
Speaking of which, turn off the car when stopped at a red light, if
the situation is right.
Carpool.
Bring your lunch instead of going out; you save money on fuel costs
this way.
Turn off air conditioning if you don't really need it.
- Logan
Don K
news:L4P_i.11140$VB6.7627@trnddc06...
> Thinking about how to make my commuter car more gas efficient... I don't really use it
> for anything other than commuting so here are some ideas I had without going TOO
> extreme...
>
Only drive the car downhill. Call AAA and have them tow it back up the hill.
If putting a brick in the toilet tank saves water, maybe putting one in the gas
tank will save gas.
If you work a 40 hour week, work 9 hours a day and take every other Friday off.
Don
Lee K
> really use it for anything other than commuting so here are some ideas I
> had without going TOO extreme...
>
> 1. Remove unnecessary parts that are heavy and lower mileage... Trunk
> rugs, unneeded tools, electric window motors(?), floor mats, hub caps,
> etc. Anything that is extra weight...
>
> 2. Make sure my air filter is clean and free-flowing. Thought about a K&N
> high flow filter, but at almost $60.00, I don't think it will pay for
> itself in the long run... Especially with FI.
>
> 3. Clean the throttle body on my car. At 160,000 miles, it's all messy
> inside.
>
> 4. No jack rabbit starts or cruising overly fast. No heavy acceleration
> on the highway to pass, etc.
>
> Any other thoughts?
>
> Joe in Northern, NJ - V#8013-R
>
Best thing is remove the nut behind the wheel.
George
>>
>
> Best thing is remove the nut behind the wheel.
>
>
Just imagine how much fuel is wasted every day by the single occupant
five ton trucks that are driven as a fashion statement.
Just A User
cleaner in your tank every two or three fill ups.
If you don't drive on the highway, make it a point to drive 30 or 40
miles a month on the highway to help keep injectors clear and combustion
chambers clean.
John Weiss
>> Thinking about how to make my commuter car more gas efficient...
>> 2. Make sure my air filter is clean and free-flowing.
Replace the paper filter with an aftermarket KN or Amsoil filter.
> If you're using an oil that's thicker than specs require, go with a
> thinner one.
Use the oil recommended for the engine, but use synthetic oil.
> Turn off air conditioning if you don't really need it.
Except if it then requires you to open the windows, and you are going faster
than about 40 mph. The drag of the windows will more than offset the A/C at
highway speeds.
Seerialmom
>
> Hillary Exposed:http://tinyurl.com/2v4avg
How about going on a diet? Body weight also contributes to lower
MPG. If you ride alone you could also lose the extra seats in the
car :)
Anthony Matonak
...
> How about going on a diet? Body weight also contributes to lower
> MPG. If you ride alone you could also lose the extra seats in the
> car :)
You could also remove the outside mirrors, door handles, and radio
antenna. Then add smooth hubcaps, underbody panels and extra bits
to reduce wind resistance. The fenders, hood and outside body of the
car could be replaced with carbon fiber composites to save some extra
weight.
Better yet, trade it in for something more efficient. I'm told there
are all kinds of 100+ mpg cars coming out in a couple of years. Some
are supposed to get more than 200 mpg.
Anthony
Bob F
"John Weiss" <jrweiss98...@NOSPAM.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:8OKdnc59d49KHKHa...@comcast.com...
I've read this - it's even in my nissan van manual. But I sure can tell the
difference when I'm trying to hold speed up a steep hill when I turn the a/c
off. No such difference when I open the window.
Bob
Bob F
> really use it for anything other than commuting so here are some ideas I had
> without going TOO extreme...
>
> 1. Remove unnecessary parts that are heavy and lower mileage... Trunk rugs,
> unneeded tools, electric window motors(?), floor mats, hub caps, etc. Anything
> that is extra weight...
>
> 2. Make sure my air filter is clean and free-flowing. Thought about a K&N
> high flow filter, but at almost $60.00, I don't think it will pay for itself
> in the long run... Especially with FI.
>
> 3. Clean the throttle body on my car. At 160,000 miles, it's all messy
> inside.
>
> 4. No jack rabbit starts or cruising overly fast. No heavy acceleration on
> the highway to pass, etc.
>
> Any other thoughts?
When you are going to have to slow or stop, get off the gas immediately. Let the
car slow down from engine brakeing rather than foot brakeing later on. If you
can, time the speed with the light to avoid total stops. Slowing down early can
mean not stopping, avoiding have to re-accelerate.
Choose your route to avoid steep uphills, long stops at problem lights, multiple
stops, heavy traffic.
Don't speed. If you won't back things up, even drive lower than the limit.
Don't warm up the engine - just drive gently the first few miles. It could even
help to leave the heater off until the engine is fully warm - it will warm up
faster, and uses less fuel when warm.
Bob
Lou
"John Weiss" <jrweiss98...@NOSPAM.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:8OKdnc59d49KHKHa...@comcast.com...
I suppose that every car is different, and I suppose that it depends on what
your definition of "highway speeds" is (as fast as you possibly can or the
posted speed limit), but in my car on about an 80 mile a day drive, one
third local two thirds interstate, air conditioning uses more gas than
driving with the windows open - a lot more.
Hugemoth
last summer. Bought a used car for $800.00 that gets 50 mpg on the
highway, better than my motorcycle. I can drive 500 miles on a tank of
gas and fill up with 10 gallons.
Q
--
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Agency may have read this email without warning, warrant, or notice.
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max
"Lou" <lpogoda...@comcast.net> wrote:
One parameter not often considered in the window-a/c debate is the
cumulative damage to one's hearing from prolonged exposure to the noise
of an open window. In many vehicles, the noise from an opened window is
well above the threshold necessary to cause hearing impairment.
.max
--
The part of betatron @ earthlink . net was played by a garden gnome
Logan Shaw
> "John Weiss" <jrweiss98...@NOSPAM.comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:8OKdnc59d49KHKHa...@comcast.com...
>> "Logan Shaw" <lshaw-...@austin.rr.com> wrote...
>>> Turn off air conditioning if you don't really need it.
>> Except if it then requires you to open the windows, and you are going faster
>> than about 40 mph. The drag of the windows will more than offset the A/C at
>> highway speeds.
> I suppose that every car is different, and I suppose that it depends on what
> your definition of "highway speeds" is (as fast as you possibly can or the
> posted speed limit),
Another variable: the weather.
If it's 80F outside and cloudy, the compressor isn't going to have to work
very hard. It'll be cycled off most of the time and still maintain the cabin
at a comfortable temperature. If it's 105F and sunny (and the sun is at an
angle where it's hitting your skin directly), the compressor is going to have
to be on most or all the time. It will use a lot more fuel.
Meanwhile, rolling down the windows will always add approximately the same
amount of drag regardless of the temperature.
- Logan
John Weiss
>
> I suppose that every car is different, and I suppose that it depends on what
> your definition of "highway speeds" is (as fast as you possibly can or the
> posted speed limit), but in my car on about an 80 mile a day drive, one
> third local two thirds interstate, air conditioning uses more gas than
> driving with the windows open - a lot more.
My VW Passat wagon is one that uses a LOT less gas with the A/C on and the
windows closed. I've tried it both ways, many times.
Max with A/C is 27.5 at 70+; with windows open it's 25.
Joe
> faster than about 40 mph. The drag of the windows will more than offset
> the A/C at highway speeds.
Some studies show that the AC / windows open thing are a net/net issue.
Best option is to close the windows and use the vent whenever possible.
--
Joe
> cumulative damage to one's hearing from prolonged exposure to the noise
> of an open window. In many vehicles, the noise from an opened window is
> well above the threshold necessary to cause hearing impairment.
Any motorcyclist who does serious riding and not just bar hopping on a noise
machine will know this and tell you about it. Wind noise affects the zone
of hearing that human speech is in more than anything else... Just a few
hours a week of good loud wind noise will damage your hearing fast.
I actually wear ear plugs in my CAR when I drive with the windows open...
--
Joe
> MPG. If you ride alone you could also lose the extra seats in the
> car :)
Both good options... And viable for me.
--
Jeff
> Thinking about how to make my commuter car more gas efficient... I don't
> really use it for anything other than commuting so here are some ideas I had
> without going TOO extreme...
>
> 1. Remove unnecessary parts that are heavy and lower mileage... Trunk rugs,
> unneeded tools, electric window motors(?), floor mats, hub caps, etc.
> Anything that is extra weight...
I doubt whether reducing a trivial amount of weight will have any impact.
The only thing that has a big impact is the way you drive. One of the
car shows did something on this, they even found that the old AC/windows
and properly inflated tires (they ran a couple really underinflated) had
little impact.
That's assuming your car is tuned up, missing sure doesn't help.
On a related note, there are now low rolling resistance tires.
Supposedly they give you 3% better mileage. Not a lot, but something.
Jeff
** Frank **
You would get a ticket in California, legal if you ware only one.
Bob F
>> Except if it then requires you to open the windows, and you are going faster
>> than about 40 mph. The drag of the windows will more than offset the A/C at
>> highway speeds.
>
> Some studies show that the AC / windows open thing are a net/net issue. Best
> option is to close the windows and use the vent whenever possible.
Remember when they used to have decent vents in cars? You know - those things
that blasted air in on the sides by your feet with no fan needed. Whatever
happened to those. They were way better than running the heater fan on todays
cars.
Bob F
Bob F
"Hugemoth" <huge...@access4less.net> wrote in message
news:13jq0dc...@corp.supernews.com...
> Sell your car and buy a car that gets better mileage. That's what I did last
> summer. Bought a used car for $800.00 that gets 50 mpg on the highway, better
> than my motorcycle. I can drive 500 miles on a tank of gas and fill up with 10
> gallons.
What's the car?
Bob F
Anthony Matonak
> Remember when they used to have decent vents in cars? You know - those things
> that blasted air in on the sides by your feet with no fan needed. Whatever
> happened to those. They were way better than running the heater fan on todays
> cars.
I seem to recall those cars also had the optional seat belts. :)
Anthony
val189
>
> Hillary Exposed:http://tinyurl.com/2v4avg
I make a 19 mile run fairly often, have two routes of the almost the
same distance. However, one route has a much greater number of red
lights and stop signs than the other. Might be something you could
also consider.
Bob F
"Anthony Matonak" <antho...@nothing.like.socal.rr.com> wrote in message
news:473e1aee$0$8619$4c36...@roadrunner.com...
The later ones anyway.
Bob F
Bill Rider
I wouldn't want to drive at 70 with windows wide open. I open front and
rear windows about 1/2". For me, that's usually as good as A/C and the
air seems to flow smoothly.
Joe
>
> You would get a ticket in California, legal if you ware only one.
Did it in California this August... And NJ, PA, OH, IL, NE, WY, AZ, MN,
SD... Just didn't get caught. I believe the law says they can't be used
unless they are prescription or something like that...
Joe
> same distance. However, one route has a much greater number of red
> lights and stop signs than the other. Might be something you could
> also consider.
I've done this... to work route is all highway... Home route is NO highway
because all of the NYC-related traffic makes it not only 12 hour slower, but
more stops and all... Plus, 10 more miles.
--
Bill Rider
>>
> cleaning the throttle body will help, but more importantly put a FI
> cleaner in your tank every two or three fill ups.
>
> If you don't drive on the highway, make it a point to drive 30 or 40
> miles a month on the highway to help keep injectors clear and combustion
> chambers clean.
Last year an injector cleaner additive worked wonders for my 22-year-old
car. I used only a fraction of the bottle. I've read that it can cause
deterioration of parts in the fuel system, so I won't use it again if
the engine runs smoothly.
Decades ago, when engines ran dirty at low speeds, they often ran better
after a highway trip. I haven't noticed that lately.
Injector varnish can form each time the engine is turned off. I don't
think driving more miles reduces the problem, but cleaners included in
gasoline can. They're cheap, but some refiners add a lot less than
engine manufacturers may recommend. How does the consumer know what
he's getting?
Anthony Matonak
>>> I actually wear ear plugs in my CAR when I drive with the windows open...
>> You would get a ticket in California, legal if you ware only one.
>
> Did it in California this August... And NJ, PA, OH, IL, NE, WY, AZ, MN,
> SD... Just didn't get caught. I believe the law says they can't be used
> unless they are prescription or something like that...
I guess it's not illegal unless you get caught? No one gets tickets
(or arrested) for anything unless they get caught.
That said, the earplugs laws don't really make much sense. They allow
both deaf people and those playing very loud music to drive so they
can't claim that being able to hear is a requirement to drive.
Anthony
--
"These go to 11"
Just A User
well those things I suggested are things that I have noticed make a
difference in my 17 year old car.
And I keep accurate fuel consumption records.
Joe
>>>> open...
>>>
>>> You would get a ticket in California, legal if you ware only one.
>>
>> Did it in California this August... And NJ, PA, OH, IL, NE, WY, AZ, MN,
>> SD... Just didn't get caught. I believe the law says they can't be
>> used unless they are prescription or something like that...
>
> I guess it's not illegal unless you get caught? No one gets tickets
> (or arrested) for anything unless they get caught.
I wasn't arguing their legality... I was simply pointing out that I had
worn them. I didn't have a clue what state where they were illegal.
I think it is one of those laws that is only enforced rarely - like when
there is an accident and then it is determined that one driver had them in,
etc. Otherwise, a LOT of motorcyclists who are trying to avoid wind noise
would be ticketed when they removed their helmets...
> That said, the earplugs laws don't really make much sense. They allow
> both deaf people and those playing very loud music to drive so they
> can't claim that being able to hear is a requirement to drive.
Agreed...