Crackle painting
Penny4pat
to refinish an old bedstead that way, but it would cost an arm and leg if I did
it with those little 2oz bottle. Thank you.
amy
First you paint whatever it is the color you want to show in the
cracks. I've heard you can use Hide glue thinned with water. You're
supposed to let it get tacky, not dry.. You can get hide glue in a
hardware store and of course, home improvement centers. It's not very
expensive either considering it can be thinned a little with water.
Its cheaper than plain old glue(Elmer's). Then you paint on top with
the color you want crackled.
amy
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Elaine Gallegos
paint. Paint the object, and let it dry. Then go over it with a
contrasting color. Use a hair dryer to speed up the drying process. The
hair dryer makes it crack.
The other method was to add a crackle medium to regular paint.
JellyBeans
A paint finish book I have says to thin the hide glue with water, to a
paintable consistency, apply with a sponge brush to reduce stroke marks.
Once the glue is dry, you apply your top paint. I don't know if the hide
glue ever gets really dry feeling, seems to be more like a contact cement
that will still feel tacky no matter how long it dries. Try to avoid going
over the same wet areas with your top paint, this breaks up the crackle
effect that is already forming. What you want is a long even application of
paint. You can speed up the effect with a hair dryer or a heat gun (careful
with that one!) Once completely dry, apply a sealer. I haven't tried this
one yet, but it's the finish of choice for a future project.
One of my major pet peeves is the craft books and shows are now mostly a big
damn advertisement for products. I picked up a few new books from the
library on faux finishing and all of them say things like "marble finish
kit", "crackle finish medium" or "glaze". I know that these finishes were
being done long before anyone ever heard of Aileens, but finding that
information is nearly impossible.
JellyBeans
jelly...@psynet.net
gmbe...@mindspring.com
>Anyone know what is actually in those tiny little bottles of crackle medium?
I don't know about crackle. In the USA you might be able to find out by
reading the ingredients on the bottle. I am guessing that hide glue is
glue made from animal products.
>
>A paint finish book I have says to thin the hide glue with water, to a
>paintable consistency, apply with a sponge brush to reduce stroke marks.
>Once the glue is dry, you apply your top paint. I don't know if the hide
>glue ever gets really dry feeling, seems to be more like a contact cement
>that will still feel tacky no matter how long it dries. Try to avoid going
>over the same wet areas with your top paint, this breaks up the crackle
>effect that is already forming. What you want is a long even application of
>paint. You can speed up the effect with a hair dryer or a heat gun (careful
>with that one!) Once completely dry, apply a sealer. I haven't tried this
>one yet, but it's the finish of choice for a future project.
>
>One of my major pet peeves is the craft books and shows are now mostly a big
>damn advertisement for products. I picked up a few new books from the
>library on faux finishing and all of them say things like "marble finish
>kit", "crackle finish medium" or "glaze". I know that these finishes were
>being done long before anyone ever heard of Aileens, but finding that
>information is nearly impossible.
I do know that faux finishes, particularly wood graining effects can be
done without any fancy materials. Paint the wood a base color (if you
want it to look like wood, then paint it beige). Then after it is dry,
take regular wood stain or paint and a rag and wipe it on. Swirl it
around so you get it to look like wood. If you don't like the effect,
wipe it off and try it again. Then let it dry. You can put a glaze
coat over it if you want, but you don't have to.
I did an old dresser set with carved out leaves on the front. I painted
the whole chest blue including the depressions. Then I painted
everything except the depressions green. Then I wiped over the green
with a darker stain which dulled the green and made it look like green
wood grain. This was to match a blue, black and green leaf pattern rug.
The room was painted blue (sort of medium light with darker woodwork,
and had dark blue/green striped curtains.
>|First you paint whatever it is the color you want to show in the
>|cracks. I've heard you can use Hide glue thinned with water. You're
>|supposed to let it get tacky, not dry.. You can get hide glue in a
>|hardware store and of course, home improvement centers. It's not very
>|expensive either considering it can be thinned a little with water.
>|Its cheaper than plain old glue(Elmer's). Then you paint on top with
>|the color you want crackled.
>
>
grandma Rosalie
David & Anita Pirkle
painting on a layer of flat paint while the gloss is still wet (any kind
of paint, he says, as long as it's flat over gloss). You put on a clear
sealer coat after the whole thing dries (matte or gloss sealer, your
choice). The results have always looked great, and no "special"
ingredients were used.
Anita
Nita wrote:
>
> I found a book in the library called "Paint Recipes" by Liz Wagstaff. It
> has instructions for all kinds of paint finishes -- very complete. You can
> try your library or find it at www.bookfinder.com. Great ideas and exact
> "recipes" to mix the glazes, etc.
Warren Block
> Does anyone know how to cheaply(of course) do crackle painting. I would like
> to refinish an old bedstead that way, but it would cost an arm and leg if I did
> it with those little 2oz bottle. Thank you.
Well... The Furniture Guys did that to a tabletop with mud. It was
lacquer or shellac, dried, and then a coat of mud on it. The mud dries
and shrinks, and cracks the finish underneath.
--
Warren Block * Rapid City, South Dakota * USA
http://www.rapidnet.com/~wblock