Monday Electrifying Madness! (not the football kind)

[Tom Gralewicz]

I plan to start the un-wiring of Lenox Monday night, this will involve pulling back the wiring from the underfloor circuits so we can reuse it when we put our wiring in.

I will disconnect and verify that there is no power to the wires we are pulling.

The fun starts about 7pm if anyone wants to join me.

Tom

--
Tom Gralewicz
Miller Electronics Recycling
(414) 380-1716
www.deadcomputers.com

[Shane]

I'll try to be there.

Just remember: electricity is magic. I don't know; I don't wanna
know. Just point me to the grunt work and promise me that I'll not
turn into a Roman Candle....

[Shane]

Also, I'm going to try walking there from our current space.

Google Maps says it's about 1.2 miles, so it shouldn't be much of a
stretch.

What time are you actually going to be there?

[Matt Wittmann]

I can pick you up shane.

--

[Shane]

I appreciate the offer, but I want to walk it to get familiar with the
general area.

Total times I've been East of Chase Ave.: 4. :D

On Oct 21, 3:00 pm, Matt Wittmann <mfrankwi...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I can pick you up shane.

[Tom Gralewicz]

7 at the latest, I plan to try to get there earlier to disconnect the stuff we will pull.

Tom

--

[ChrisH]

Tom,

I think I can come help.

Are there any tools or parts or whatnot that I can bring which will help?

-Chris

[Tom Gralewicz]

Mostly gloves to protect you hands while pulling the wire.

The conduit I have seen is held down with aluminum pound in bolts, I'm going to try a few techniques to remove them but won't know what will work until tonight:

Pry the up with a flat bar

shear off the heads with a cold chisel

Drill off the heads

I will have some tools there and there is a makerspace not far away :-)

--
 
 
 

[rod...@rodneydickman.com]

Sawzall? Long fine steel blade. It will follow the flat floor as it cuts. Should leave a very smooth, clean surface.

Rodney

[Have Blue]

Safety glasses are not a bad idea either!

--
 
 
 

[Tom Gralewicz]

We can try it, but first we need to get the conduit clamp out from under it or you will be sawzalling through 1" of steel.  And once you have the clam out, most of these will pound in flush with the floor.  So I should have listed hammers on the list.

On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 8:50 AM, rod...@rodneydickman.com <rod...@rodneydickman.com> wrote:

Sawzall? Long fine steel blade. It will follow the flat floor as it cuts. Should leave a very smooth, clean surface.

Rodney

--
 
 
 

[rod...@rodneydickman.com]

Probably center punch, drill in some to the end of the head and chisel. Sawzall if you want a smooth surface. Maybe a angle grinder and a sanding disc. I have a wax type lubricant bar that keeps the disc from gumming up but I probably can't make it tonite.  :(       Or larger chisel and large hammer and hammer the remains down and some epoxy to fill and make smooth again. 

[Have Blue]

I was planning on bringing a cordless Dremel and cutoff disc.

On 10/22/2012 9:45 AM, rod...@rodneydickman.com wrote:

Probably center punch, drill in some to the end of the head and chisel. Sawzall if you want a smooth surface. Maybe a angle grinder and a sanding disc. I have a wax type lubricant bar that keeps the disc from gumming up but I probably can't make it tonite.  :(       Or larger chisel and large hammer and hammer the remains down and some epoxy to fill and make smooth again. 

--
 
 
 

[rod...@rodneydickman.com]

Might be hard to control. A cut off disc on an angle grinder may do better. What size are the bolts? 1/4"? 5/16"?  Prying them up will probably take out cement. Are they steel bolts? I've seen steel bolts that have a curve to them so when pounded in to concrete they hold. They would be hardened. I have a large HD 20,000 rpm corded die grinder with a cut off wheel I could bring maybe later this week. 

Rodney

[Ron Bean]

>7 at the latest, I plan to try to get there earlier to disconnect the stuff
>we will pull.

I'm sure you know this, but double check that the stuff is actually
disconnected. It's easy to pull the wrong breaker...

[Shane]

@Have Blue: I had the exact same thought, though I have no idea if it
will make a difference.

On Oct 22, 10:12 am, Ron Bean <makersp...@rbean.users.panix.com>
wrote:

[Brent Bublitz]

A 4 1/2 inch disk on an angle grinder tucked under the bolt will slice
it in a few seconds. Much less effort than hammering, the blades will
last longer than the sawzall and the sparks/chips are a lot more
controlled. We have 3 or 4 at the space and I can bring another
grinder.

> --
>
>
>

[Tom Gralewicz]

"The conduit I have seen is held down with aluminum pound in bolts"

Sorry, I shouldn't have used the word Bolt, they are concrete anchors like these:

http://fasteners.stanleysupplyonline.com/viewitems/hammer-set-nail-drive-anchors/itw-red-head-hammer-sets-nail-drive-anchors?

And they appear to be steel not aluminum.

Either way, you have a 1/4" tube with a nail pounded into it.  About 1/8" head protruding through a single hole conduit clamp like these:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?gclid=CNTchrT_lLMCFQpgMgod1CcAuA&searchQuery=One%20Hole%20Clamp&op=search&Ntt=One%20Hole%20Clamp&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset&cm_mmc=PPC:%20Google%20Main%204-_-Plumbing%3EPipe%20And%20Tubing-_-One%20Hole%20Clamp%3EOne%20Hole%20Clamp%3EBroad-_-One%20Hole%20Clamp&ef_id=-OZOZopF938AAMhF:20121022160114:s

Grinding off the head will leave a post, and grind the post off is scratch up the floor.

We will try pulling them up with a pry bar (the fastest way to extract them) first.

A sawzall won't get a purchase on the heads so a chisel or grinder is our alternative.

Lets see what works when we get there.

Tom

--

[Have Blue]

Should I bring along some epoxy resin and fillers so we can patch up the anchor holes immediately?

--
 
 
 

[rod...@rodneydickman.com]

Commonly used fastener. Try the angle grinder with the cut off wheel and cut them off flush to the steel clamp. Try  hammering it in farther to be flush to the floor. May or may not work. I think trying to pull them out will probably take concrete with them. But you can try. Maybe they do not hold that well? Using a typical paper grinding disc on an angle grinder would probably not score the cement very much. They would tend to grind the steel but not the cement much.  Maybe if one can get a side cutters on the head of the pin and pull the pin out?

Rodney

[Ron Bean]

>http://fasteners.stanleysupplyonline.com/viewitems/hammer-set-nail-drive-anchors/itw-red-head-hammer-sets-nail-drive-anchors?
>
>
>And they appear to be steel not aluminum.

I've cut these off with a dremel before.
I don't think you'll have any problem with them.

I don't remember if I pounded them in, or what, but I remember there
wasn't anything left sticking out when I was done.

[Jason Hilleshiem]

I'll be there with helping hands

-Jason H

--

[ironmonger]

If the anchors are what the industry calls Zamacs they can be removed with a cold chisel. Place the bevel flush with the floor under the one hole strap and drive the chisel in towards the pin. Most of the time the whole anchor comes out. Sometimes the top of the anchor and the pin come out and leave part of the zinc shell in the concrete. That can be drilled out or left in place

See:
http://www.powers.com/product_02826.php

Paul
WB9HCO
No trees were killed sending this message, but a tremendous number of electrons were terribly inconvienced...

--
 
 
 

[Tom Gralewicz]

I'm getting an earlier start than I thought and am at lenox now.  So come on down!

[Kevin Crowley]

I was heading down and got called into work.  Will there be anything to help with thursday or friday?

--
 
 
 

[rod...@rodneydickman.com]

I could not make it tonite as I drove to Union Grove to pick up a table saw. Like new (looks never used - guy inherited it from a deceased uncle) Craftsman middle of the road aluminum table top saw. Direct drive. OK for me. A quality saw is much more and takes up more room so it is a nice compromise. $100. Bargain! On the way down on I-94 it rained terribly hard. On the way back we could see what looked like a multicar pile up in the south bound lanes. A plane ran off the runway and out onto the southbound lanes. This is the airport where many parachute west of racine. Looks like the pilot and any passengers probably survived. Plane was right across all 3 southbound lanes. Traffic was backed up several miles. They closed the freeway southbound and cars were turning around and getting off the freeway at the previous on ramp. I'm not sure what the semis will do. maybe turn them around one by one? Big mess for sure. We must have missed it by just a few minutes when we were going southbound. I'm sure it will be on the local news tonight.

Rodney

[rod...@rodneydickman.com]

http://racine.craigslist.org/tls/3349661844.html if it is still up. It is a full size table saw. Steel side table extensions. Hand crank for the tilt. Not a smaller cheapo.

Rodney

[Have Blue]

Not sure about Thurs. or Fri., but tomorrow night after the meeting, the plan is to break down the cooling units and pull out copper pipe.

Bring for Tuesday:
*Sawz-alls (and extension cords)
*pipe cutters
*bolt cutters
*hacksaws
(work gloves are also recommended - your hands can get pretty grubby).

Hopefully Wednesday will be good for removal of the raised floors.  For that we will need:
*Cordless drills with nut drivers for the room where the floor grid is assembled with screws
*Angle grinders (and extension cords) to remove the conduit clamp anchors from the concrete floor

Any other tools I forgot, Tom?

--