On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 7:53 PM, Kitten <skel...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Ok, we have a MIG, DC TIG, DC Stick, and PAC up at the space. there is
> aluminum wire and a spool gun is not required to do aluminum with mig,
> it makes life way easier but 100% argon is required either way.  to
> properly tig aluminum you need an AC TIG machine but you can do DC TIG
> using ultra high purity helium. or you could stick weld the aluminum
> using special rods.

> A few words of warning about welding aluminum. Not all grades of
> aluminum are weldable, this isn't a huge issue on something like a
> kick starter but something you should be aware of if there is a chance
> of someone getting seriously hurt if the weld fails.  The flux on
> stick electrodes for aluminum is corrosive to aluminum in order to
> remove the aluminum oxide passivation layer so the metal fuses. thus
> you should only use stick electrodes if you can get at the back of the
> weld and you must use caution not to get slag inclusions as they will
> cause the weld to fail over time.

> in short without ultra high purity helium (really spendy), we can only
> weld aluminum using the mig machine at the space.  i didn't measure
> the aluminum wire we have so i don't know if the liner or tip are the
> right diameter for the aluminum wire we have.

> On Mar 21, 8:52 am, Walter Stokes <wwsto...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Oh! Kick starter, not kick stand...

> > Ed is right about using the MIG with a spool gun, of course. I just
> didn't
> > think there was a spool gun up there.

> > Maybe you should consider making a new one out of steel?
> > On Mar 21, 2012 8:29 AM, "Ed Stafford" <ed.staff...@gmail.com> wrote:

> > > Aluminum welding...  FUN stuff!!

> > > Aluminum requires 100% argon, not a 75/25 Argon/CO2 mix, at least with
> > > respect to GMAW welding

> > > Welding cast vs. forged, I don't think there's much of a difference
> > > outside of the typical "MOVE FAST" method

> > > TIG is a lot easier to control, but if you have a spool gun for the MIG
> > > welder, either is doable.  The big thing I see with that kick starter
> is
> > > you've got a LOT of area to contend with which is not on the outside.
> > > Here's my recommendations:

> > > Don't mill the 2 pieces.
> > > Place them back together and tack-weld the edges in place
> > > Drill 3 holes perpendicular to the break
> > > Tap holes
> > > Use Aluminum screws or all-thread - Don't use steel - put thread sealer
> > > (loc-tite) on the threads and tighten down
> > > Weld the outside edges via MIG or TIG
> > > grind down the threads/screws flat and weld the tops flush
> > > Grind/sand everything smooth, polish, drink beer

> > > On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 12:30 AM, Ben Eishen <b...@eishen.com> wrote:

> > >> Thanks to kit, we have the mig, arc, plasma cutter, and tig :D

> > >> Sent from my iPhone

> > >> On Mar 20, 2012, at 11:22 PM, Walter Stokes <wwsto...@gmail.com>
> wrote:

> > >> Are you sure? I know there's a MIG up there, but that's another beast
> > >> entirely.
> > >> On Mar 20, 2012 11:13 PM, "Ben Eishen" < <b...@eishen.com>
> b...@eishen.com>
> > >> wrote:

> > >>> We do have a tig at the space, but no argon, just co2. But kit would
> be
> > >>> the expert on that subject.
> > >>> --
> > >>> Ben S. Eishen
> > >>> 773.234.7436 | <b...@eishen.com>b...@eishen.com
> > >>> 9160 Hwy. 64, Suite 12-302, Lakeland, TN 38002

> > >>> On Tue, Mar 20, 2012 at 10:42 PM, Walter Stokes < <
> wwsto...@gmail.com>
> > >>> wwsto...@gmail.com> wrote:

> > >>>> Hey guys, lemme share what I know about aluminum:

> > >>>> You can solder with a good torch and aluminum rods, but you run a
> real
> > >>>> risk of melting the workpiece. The device that is commonly used to
> weld
> > >>>> aluminum is called a TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas). It's a frequency
> transformer
> > >>>> with gas port to keep the aluminum from oxidizing (it likes to
> oxidize
> > >>>> rapidly). I can't remember exactly, but I think you need to use a
> mix of
> > >>>> CO2 and Argon. Then you use a tungsten rod to feed into the arc.
> It's a
> > >>>> cool process and there are lots of videos online if you're
> interested. A
> > >>>> TIG torch is very expensive and takes a lot of experience to be
> good at.
> > >>>> I've seen a guy weld a coke can back together with one, though, so
> you they
> > >>>> can do just about anything.

> > >>>> I think the right response is JB Weld. Of course, a new kickstand
> costs
> > >>>> about as much as a tube of JB Weld... So whatever....

> > >>>> On Tue, Mar 20, 2012 at 10:08 PM, Keith < <kstova...@comcast.net>
> > >>>> kstova...@comcast.net> wrote:

> > >>>>> **
> > >>>>> Aluminum welding rods can be used to solder aluminum.
> > >>>>> I picked mine up at Southaven Supply but Lowes or Home Depot should
> > >>>>> carry them.
> > >>>>> I've used them to solder small pieces of aluminum using a propane
> > >>>>> torch and larger pieces using MAP gas.
> > >>>>> You have to be careful as it is easy to melt the aluminum with MAP
> > >>>>> gas, though.

> > >>>>> Take Care,

> > >>>>> Keith

> > >>>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > >>>>> *From:* Ben Eishen <b...@eishen.com>
> > >>>>> *To:* <midsouth-makers@googlegroups.com>
> > >>>>> midsouth-makers@googlegroups.com
> > >>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 20, 2012 8:33 PM
> > >>>>> *Subject:* Re: [MidsouthMakers] Welding cast aluminum?

> > >>>>> JB weld baby, that stuff is better than ducktape :p

> > >>>>> All joking aside, I do remember some kind of aluminum epoxy that is
> > >>>>> supposed to work wonders. I've seen it used on car compressors to
> make a
> > >>>>> new threaded bolt ear.

> > >>>>> Sent from my iPhone

> > >>>>> On Mar 20, 2012, at 7:10 PM, Daniel Hess < <dan9...@gmail.com>
> > >>>>> dan9...@gmail.com> wrote:

> > >>>>>   I do remember Kit saying something about needing special stuff to
> > >>>>> weld aluminum.

> > >>>>> Maybe he can provide insight. I also bet Ben will have some sort of
> > >>>>> off the wall idea on how to replace it with the cheapest stuff
> possible.

> > >>>>> Daniel
> > >>>>> Sent from my iPhone

> > >>>>> On Mar 20, 2012, at 7:02 PM, Chad Miller < <cwmil...@gmail.com><
> cwmil...@gmail.com>
> > >>>>> cwmil...@gmail.com> wrote:

> > >>>>>   Cut it in half, reverse the other side of the cast and pour.
> > >>>>>  Aluminum isn't great for welding, IMHO.   If it is all aluminum,
> you can
> > >>>>> cast it.  Go go gadget beer can!

> > >>>>> Chad Miller

> > >>>>> On Mar 20, 2012, at 6:48 PM, Brad Dunagan < <
> brad.duna...@gmail.com><brad.duna...@gmail.com>
> > >>>>> brad.duna...@gmail.com> wrote:

> > >>>>>   I know there are welders in this group.  How are you at what I
> > >>>>> think is cast aluminum?

> > >>>>> Its a kick starter off my bike.  Picture of the damage is attached.

> > >>>>> I do not have the piece that broke off.

> > >>>>> Right now I am thinking about multiple operations in the repair.
> > >>>>> First I will try to mill the broken area to get flat surfaces.  I
> will
> > >>>>> drill a hole vertically up the part for a steal bolt.  I will
> machine a
> > >>>>> piece that will be bolted into place.  Then I wll try to wrap
> reinforcement
> > >>>>> strips around the whole thing.  Finally, weld.

> > >>>>> And I am certainly open to other ideas and suggestions.

> > >>>>> Thanks.

> > >>>>>  <IMG_2300[1].jpg>

> > > --
> > > Ed Stafford